Stealthbomber Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 I suppose that must be a rare case of a chinese manufacturer actually thinking for themselves rather than just blindly copying somebody elses design. To digress slightly, I am very impressed with the quality of the AGM outer barrel. I know it's only aluminium but it's beautifully machined. Hell, the G&P barrel on my ICS M4 only has a cast finish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 Yup its a work of art that barrel, very straight and well machined indeed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roecar Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 Too bad the base of it is too thick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stickyittoyou Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 You gotta love airsoft forums. The correct answer is CCW, left-handed, anti-clockwise, negative. Take your pick. Stickittoyou was obviously having a brainfart. Sorry I was taking note to Redwolfairsoft.com about them saying it is CW... "A 14mm CW aluminum flash hider comes stock with the AGM M4A1 GBB." See? Because I do not have the gun... and redwolfairsoft.com says it has CW threading... WHAT GIVES?! BRAIN FART! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roecar Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 Finally after XXX amount of shots my plastic bolt rip the back part of itself off. I'm now in the market for an RATech NPAS but not exactly sure which version works with the AGM. I there there is the full metal kit which is steel and aluminum, the plastic bolt kit, and the aluminum bolt kit. It was already mentioned in several threads about the AGM that its compatibility with G&P/WA parts isn't always a true fit. With that in mind have anyone foy ou replaced your bolt/bolt carrier group with the RATech ones yet? And if so which one would you suggest I buy? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LordElpus Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 Finally after XXX amount of shots my plastic bolt rip the back part of itself off. I'm now in the market for an RATech NPAS but not exactly sure which version works with the AGM. I there there is the full metal kit which is steel and aluminum, the plastic bolt kit, and the aluminum bolt kit. It was already mentioned in several threads about the AGM that its compatibility with G&P/WA parts isn't always a true fit. With that in mind have anyone foy ou replaced your bolt/bolt carrier group with the RATech ones yet? And if so which one would you suggest I buy? I'm sure i saw someone post here about having problems with the Aluminum bolt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poison123 Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 I'm sure i saw someone post here about having problems with the Aluminum bolt. That would be me. I'm still working on it, but step one is to replace the O-ring on the npas kit with the O-ring from the stock bolt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KWP Posted June 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 They sell the AGM mags in bulk now here in HK. A set of 3 AGM mags costs just US$69. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morb Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 just received this gun at my place.. When i try to fill the mag with gas, it just flows out. I'm holding down that 'lever' on top of the mag... hmm... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frakk2k Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 I can't "close" the valve on my mag now, that little lever on top won't go all the way over (towards the bb feeder). Whats wrong? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badly Browned Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) I can't "close" the valve on my mag now, that little lever on top won't go all the way over (towards the bb feeder). Whats wrong? That little lever just changes whether the magazine will engage the bolt stop or not. If it is forward, close to the BB feed tube, then the bolt will not lock back when the magazine is empty. On mine, I can't switch it all the way forward unless BBs are inserted. Edited June 22, 2009 by Badly Browned Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tuulos Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 The lever you're looking for is located in the corner of the mag and you push it downwards towards the bottom of the mag and you should see the shiny knob to move outwards a little. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Downslide Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 They sell the AGM mags in bulk now here in HK. A set of 3 AGM mags costs just US$69. That's a nice price to get say, a six pack to flush out a skirmishable kit, with the one from the gun and then maybe a couple of GHKs mags to run GG/Propane for longer range shots.... can't find them online at that price though... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morb Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) well i can confirm the agm m4 runs around 400 fps on Abbey Ultra gas Damn... i need it to be around 350 fps for playing in Belgium. To get this lower i shut get the ra-tech npas? I've read reports where ppl said that it isn't compatible with the agm. True? On a side note... this gun is hellish fun to shoot Edited June 22, 2009 by morb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Luis21 Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 well i can confirm the agm m4 runs around 400 fps on Abbey Ultra gas Damn... i need it to be around 350 fps for playing in Belgium. To get this lower i shut get the ra-tech npas? I've read reports where ppl said that it isn't compatible with the agm. True? On a side note... this gun is hellish fun to shoot If you need 350 to play, just run it on duster(134a). If you have alot of money then get the NPAS if you wish. -Luis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 I gotta say, the thing that puts me off the AGM mags isn't so much the problems with leking but rather the way they expand. It's physically almost impossible to insert the mag when it's filled with propane. I'd go as far as to say it's really unusable in a skirmish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morb Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 ok update.. after a few mags on abbey ultra the mag just keeps on leaking..*great* guess i'll have to open it up... there's going to go something wrong there i'll bet! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roecar Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 That would be me. I'm still working on it, but step one is to replace the O-ring on the npas kit with the O-ring from the stock bolt. What else have you noticed with the NPAS kit? The vids that RATech posted make it seem all peachy. I'm thinking that the NPAS/AGM compatibility might require a certain combition of parts as opposed to the replacement of everything. I talked with one of the techs at my airsoft store and he said that I probably only need to replace the bolt. Now whether thats the aluminum or plastic one is the question. I'd think the plastic one would be better since plastic is more flexible, exerts less stress on the hopup, and to a degree self lubricates. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
falconfour4 Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 More compatible parts have gone up on ebaybanned, a new buffer, stock pipe and anti rotation links (what are they for?). They have also updated the description for the hop and its is definately aluminum anyone know how easy it is to change the selector, it seems to just push out but it feels sprung loaded. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 More compatible parts have gone up on ebaybanned, a new buffer, stock pipe and anti rotation links (what are they for?). They have also updated the description for the hop and its is definately aluminum anyone know how easy it is to change the selector, it seems to just push out but it feels sprung loaded. The anti rotation links stop the trigger and hammer pins rotating or sliding. Must say, mine don't really like staying in place properly so I might go for some. The selector is pretty easy to remove. I think (although I'm not completely sure) that you need to remove the full-auto sear first. To do that you need to pop the metal E-clip off first, then remove the plastic clip before sliding the pin out. Once you've done that you can slide the selector out, at which point a little spring pin on the right hand side will pop out. When you're replacing the selector you can push the spring pin back in with a jewellers screwdriver quite easily. FWIW, even if you don't need to remove the full-auto sear I'd suggest you do it anyway just cos it makes the selector more visible and gives you better access to the spring pin that holds the selector in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonny2400 Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 Guys for all us waiting on our AGM M4 to arrive, Could one of the existing owners, Give us a kind of guide on what to check when ours arrive. A few points on what to check or adjust before first use to help prevent any problems, I seen a guide like this on the WE section and most people found it really useful. Thanks in advance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morb Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) just opened up my mag and checked the valve.. can't see anything wrong... mag keeps leaking.. what should i do? Replacement o-rings for the valve?? Edited June 22, 2009 by morb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Downslide Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 Stealth- you said the AGM mags "swell." Is that just on Propane? or is it on duster too? Also, that kind of implies that the mag body IS the gas reservoir? That would be kinda scary... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 can't see anything wrong... mag keeps leaking.. what should i do? Replacement o-rings for the valve?? Maybe there's something really wrong but it's likely that the mag valve just needs to pop back out to seal again. press down the tab on the top of the mag and then use a screwdriver to poke at the valve. Does it spring in and out? It should. Mine does this sometimes too. I just make sure I'm holding the tab down then just give the mag a couple of quick blasts of gas and it'll quickly reseat itself and allow me to fill it properly. you said the AGM mags "swell." Is that just on Propane? or is it on duster too? Also, that kind of implies that the mag body IS the gas reservoir? That would be kinda scary... In all honesty, I haven't investigated yet or even had a look at any of the various guides to how they're built or how to service them so I really dunno what's going on inside them. The empty mag goes in with barely any trouble. It's not loose enough that it'll drop when you press the catch but it's pretty easy to insert. On 134a you do notice that the mag is harder to insert but it's not such a big deal. On propane the mag swells so much that you often have to clamp the gun between your legs and pull the mag out with both hands. Without knowing it I really gave this a thorough test last Sunday. I gassed the mag up with propane at 9am and then, at about 10:30am I tried to remove it. The mag was jammed so tightly that I ended up opening the receiver just to see if summat was jammed. The gun DID spend this time in my car boot but I figure the heat build up was minimal and, let's face it, it's similar to what's gonna happen if you gas up 10 mags then stick em in your webbing and run around with them on a summer day. For me, propane is the only cost effective option for a gas rifle so I don't think I'll be buying too many AGM mags because of this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badly Browned Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) Hmm, my AGM mag hasn't leaked (I'm using propane) and I do not notice it swelling when I fill it up. However, the magazine isn't able to engage the bolt catch unless I remove the spring from the bolt catch. Edited June 22, 2009 by Badly Browned Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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