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hole in hop bucking - no need to seal it but you probably will need a wrap of tape around it to provide enough thickness to let the hop nubs put sufficient pressure on it going by other folks who've used it. Personally I'd dump it for a red RA-T hop bucking at 7 bucks

 

free play in the hop unit - doesnt occur with the stock unit or the RA-Tech one (the most play I have in one of those is under 6 thousandths of an inch which is going to be within manufacturing tolerances for pretty much anything. the big mm or two plus only seems to have occured in the type of third party unit snoopy is using

 

front sight alignment sight pins are fixed fit in the barrel and RIS is attached to that soooo if both are slightly off to the left we can very likely assumme that the whole barrel assembly is rotated a few degrees of 12 o'clock in relation to the upper receiver.

 

I'd need to strip the gun again to check but I'm pretty sure theres a little notch and spigot style area at 12 o'clock position on the barrel and 12 oclock position on the receiver that the pair of parts key into one another using.

 

Aside from that the shoulder of the outer barrel really just butts against the threaded front of the upper and relies on the barrel nut to hold them both together.

 

now if theres any side play play between the notch and spigot on those two parts (notch slightly larger than spigot) then thats going to allow the barrel etc to rotate a little in relation to the upper. When the barrel nut is beign tightended down the barrel will rotate to take up the slack between spigot and notch.

 

As the barrel nut is a right hand thread that tiny amount of barrel rotation will follow that direction, which will translate to a little left offset in the barrel, RIS and sight when viewed from the rear of the gun down the barrel.

 

So if you're only a degree or two off from being lined up bang on 12 o'clock free play between those two areas could be the root cause - I'd undo the barrel nut and ensure the outer has no rotational free play when held against the front of the upper - if the notch is bigger than the spigot then shim the notch with anything that comes to hand that leaves the spigot centred in it.

 

 

hammer lock spring - common problem I think WA got the ball rolling on this and others copied it (Ino got it right) if you have the arm of the spring pointing to the rear of the receiver then proper hammer lock tension is hit and miss - its very sensitive to where the point of the spring grounds out against receiver, if its on the sweet spot it works otherwise it doesnt.

 

Even when you do hit the sweet spot for 'pointing to the rear' there isnt the same amount of tension in the hammer lock as you get with the leg of the spring pointing forwards and it ends up a bit of a 'hair trigger' - throw slightest wear in the lock or the hammer into the mix and it would start slipping and failing to catch the hammer.

 

Wont affect you getting automatic fire (selector dictates that) but any slop like that will affect how consistent/powerful the auto fire is.

 

The lock keeps the hammer back untill the bolt carrer is fully forwards, if tis not catching properly the hammer will ride the bolt carrier back into battery and trigger gas release from the mag too early - wasting gas and reducing the efficiency of the cycle.

 

Fitting it the proper way not only provides a bit of tension to the selector lever but also ensures that the hammer lock itself is always properly tensioned and will cope with a lot more wear in the parts.

 

free play in the upper and lower Ive had the AGM down to bare metal and with paint removed theres a fair bit of play in the upper and lower, the nice big thick coat of paint it has as standard gives it a pretty tight fit, course as the paint wears in the areas around the pins and the lugs then the inherent play between the two parts is going to get noticeable.. Id go with one of the eccentric front pivot pins from G&P to nip the play out of it where it matters on the gas gun - at the front of the receiver by pulling the parts together.

 

On real steel you want the play out for consistency, wear reduction or just to avoid a rattle, so wedging the two parts at maximum play will be fine on those (wedged at max a trivial amount of play wont affect hammer striking firing pin, auto sear tripping or chambering a round). On airsoft gas gun that would be counter productive as that sort of solution will minimise play at expense of maximizng standoff between gas outlet on mag and gas inlet on nozzle. so avoid real steel solutions like the accu wedge that fit in rear of the lower.

 

 

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@Multikasha:

 

I have the copy of the PGC hop-up unit for AEG barrels. It looks very nice. However I can't test the performance because the loading nozzle is broken and I can't shoot right now.

 

I'm trying to get money for a complete NPAS bolt carrier group. Until then I won't be able to see the results unless someone wants to send me a loading nozzle for testing. :D

 

I will also be getting 6 of the 5KU magazines so I'll comment on those too.

 

-Luis

 

 

Luis,

Have your tried installing an AEG barrel using the wantong PGC copy yet? I heard that the outer diameter of the typical aeg barrel is bigger than the AGM/WA barrel thus making the hopup + AEG barrel impossible to fit unless you change the outer barrel.

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Some further testing with my NPAS, AGM interal setup. I found that my ROF increased and "reliability" improved when I "seasoned" my RATech BC. I mean seasoned by literally soaking the entire thing in silicone oil. Reasoing being the AGM one is glossy and smooth as a whistle, I think that has some reasoning in its stock ROF which is very fast. After the RATech BC was drenched with silicone oil I definitely noticed improved ROF, also my nozzle replacement has yet to break.

 

I'll get back with further details.

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Some further testing with my NPAS, AGM interal setup. I found that my ROF increased and "reliability" improved when I "seasoned" my RATech BC. I mean seasoned by literally soaking the entire thing in silicone oil. Reasoing being the AGM one is glossy and smooth as a whistle, I think that has some reasoning in its stock ROF which is very fast. After the RATech BC was drenched with silicone oil I definitely noticed improved ROF, also my nozzle replacement has yet to break.

 

what oring are you using? - the red RAT one is sticky and gummy and at very least needs loads of lube (personaly Id ditch it for a stock off the shelf oring)

 

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its counter clockwise it runs contrary to how conventional threads work

 

you turn it left (counterclockwise) to tighten it, and you turn it right (clockwise) to loosen it

 

oh okay

thanks for the quick responses and tips

 

Edit:

yeah man, i think mine is glued on or something

i tried as hard as i can to unscrew it and it wont even budge..

those motherhumpers!!!

Edited by cFut
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Exterior finished

 

img1257i.jpg

 

 

img1258r.jpg

 

 

Now, onto the interior. Grenade launcher will make hop adjusting a *badgeress*, but I can't live without it and my MadBull 108 Hp's :) nor the look on other peoples face when they hear the bang.

As for the interior I definitely lean towards NPAS BCG, but snoopy definitely has a point with the lightweight bolt carier. Damn, the decisions...

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Luis,

Have your tried installing an AEG barrel using the wantong PGC copy yet? I heard that the outer diameter of the typical aeg barrel is bigger than the AGM/WA barrel thus making the hopup + AEG barrel impossible to fit unless you change the outer barrel.

 

I have not. However it looks about the same as the AGM barrel w/ the O-ring in place.

 

I can install the barrel into the hop-up and I can also place it into the outer barrel and let you know how it fits.

 

However I can't do any performance testing because I can't shoot at all right now. I will begin testing until I get money for the RA-Tech complete BCG.

 

I'll let you know how it fits later, in a couple hours.

 

-Luis

 

 

 

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Updaye guys!

 

The Chinese copy of the PGC hop-up fits the AGM M4 good.

 

The stock hop-up chamber is a little bit wider diameter wise than the PGC copy. The PGC copy stays open a little bit but it might vary from barrel to barrel. The hop-up rubber on PGC copy comes into contact directly with the main nozzle. The stock doesn't it has a plastic lip.

 

Also, the PGC copy doesn't need or use a spring for counter pressure on the adjustment lever. No more little spring to get lost. I lost my stock spring changing it out BTW :P.

 

Also the rubber nub that puts pressure on the BBs actually moves, unlike the terrible stock chamber which can't put pressure on the BB to save its life. The PGC copy also has way more room behind the hop-up nub before the BB comes into contact with it. I'm sure this will stop the BBs from getting chambered past the nub like on the AGM.

 

So far things are looking great.

 

I'd definitely reccomend you guys to buy one ASAP and test it for your selves since the time until I test mine is unpredictable. For only $14 they're a steal!

 

I installed a Classic Army 6.08 363mm inner barrel. Once installed, the inner barrel sticks out about 1mm outside the outer barrel. Any AEG 363mm M4 length barrel will fit it perfectly and you won't waste any outer barrel room. Any 363mm inner installed in the PGC chamber will fit a 14.5'' outer barrel like a dream.

 

Can't wait to test it out!

 

-Luis

 

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just a quick heads up for anyone in mainland UK - Ive got an order going into RA-tech over the weekend its already over the spend 200 bucks get fresh shipping point, so if anyone is after any small bits and bobs (bolt catches steel sears npas nozzles etc) that wouldnt add up to a free shipping order of their own PM me and I'll see if I can sort out adding them in with mine.

 

Not looking to make a profit on them so you'ld be paying the cost of the part, 15 percent VAT on value of those parts (if its stopped and levvied by customs) and cost of postage within UK to get it from me to you

 

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I have some rather embarrassing news to report about my installation process. For the moment the reason why my nozzles were prematurely breaking was my Prime hopup was tuned to the max. This little hickup caused my misfeeds which in turn caused my nozzles to explode. I have also noticed that with the hopup properly adjusted, my ROF is back to normal. I'll try and skirmish with my gun this Sunday and report what happens.

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