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Ares Tavor Tar 21 Review


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Ares Tavor TAR-21 Takedown

 

Part 1: Removing the gearbox from the body

 

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First get everything ready you will need in a clear area, and when you have plenty of time to spare, if you are rushing as with everything we do in life you will make mistakes.

 

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Then make shore the aeg is on safe and remove the magazine and battery. Once you have removed the battery close the back plate and put the pin back in, this will stop the door being damaged as you work on the aeg.

 

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Remove the sling mount, mine was very tight and i needed to use a pin hammer ad punch.

 

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Remove the two screws showing on the top face of the tavor just behind the mars replica, you will know be able to lift the plate there holding in place away from the boy know, put this to one side.

 

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Removing the previous section know exposes 4 screws that you need to remove, once these have been undone the mars replica and its mounting plate should come away from the body.

 

 

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This is the only really tricky bit of the process, i;ve blown the light up on this picture to try and show clearly the 2 grub screws you know need to undo, the first grub screw on the top right hand side of the picture just needs to be undone. The second grub screw located on the bottom left hand side of the picture needs to be undone and then to use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the block from the end of the shaft and place this safely to one side.

 

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This is what the piece you are removing will look like, keep it safely to one side.

 

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Know remove the above pins and the sling point.

 

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Lastly remove the 2 screws that are found at the bottom of the mag well.

 

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The gearbox will know slide out of the body, be careful as two push rods and the inner barrel will come with the gearbox, this is perfectly normal.

 

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Gearbox: take down of this to follow in part 2

 

 

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Know considering the mars sight suck so so much i thought will i had my tavor in pieces i would have a little bit of a play with putting together a rail for mounting optics, i used a g36c side rail and some parts i had lying around.

 

First off i put together a rail with spacers so i could use an acog.

 

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Works well, the spacers i think need to have more bulk to them as it looks a bit weak but then again the referace pictures of real steel i have look the same, also tryed the riser with a eotech.

 

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The acog looks nice and i like it unfortuntaly the quality of airsoft replica acogs do not give enought eye relief for me to use it naturaly and it to be comfortable with reflex shooting, the tar 21 just screems speed and when you use it, its the same it crys out for a reflex sight and the eotech works where as the mars does not.

 

Eotech without the riser just the rail.

 

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Assuming that they still use a micro switch inside the body, it would be the cause of any lock ups. I know my old STAR FNC would occasionally lock up, and there was a small hole through which to depress the unit again.

 

Fortunately, I think it happened 4 times in the entire time I owned it. If its just a lockup in semi, which can be alleviated by a full auto burst, than yes, its normal. The Lipo should help to alleviate it, but a high torque motor would be the best solution.

 

Might try looking for a suspicious hole somewhere on the gun.

Edited by EmptyChambers
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Assuming that they still use a micro switch inside the body, it would be the cause of any lock ups. I know my old STAR FNC would occasionally lock up, and there was a small hole through which to depress the unit again.

 

From what I understand, Ares' use of microswitch has absolutely nothing to do with the occasional lock ups. It's just the same trigger lock up as other guns, where the mechbox sometimes cycles and stops in a midway position where it blocks the trigger on semi. As Pudding said, auto clears the problem. The problem probably lies elsewhere in the new TAR trigger system, not the use of a microswitch.

 

I think the need for a reset switch in the FNC has something to do with the FNC's trigger system being complicated by a 3rd burst feature.

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my lock seems to be for a very strange reason, issue has been tracked down to the motor in my case, the grub stress during full auto appear to tighten itself, i can watch this happening, i can correct this by simply undoing the grub strew, at the moment i can not adjust the motor height at all with out getting this problem, going to get some lock tight and see if that will keep the grub screw in place...

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myself i used the existing from hole and then drilled a new hole to make up with the other hole on the g36c side rail, only other thing i needed to do was dremal away a small amount of the body work, this was where the bolt came in contact with the receiver, its only an internal support does not weaken anything and can not be seen when the tavor is back together

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Did the same as Puding, use the hole closest to the rear sight, then drilled an extra hole in correspondence with the rail. Didn't have to dremel anything.

 

Neovenom: You maybe have lots of G36 rails lying around, but i know you also have a lot of g36's lying around ;-)

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After using it few times on skirmishes, I am fairly satisfied with the rifle. It is ergonomic, fast maneuvering, with strong body, no squeaking. Also, it is probably the most accurate stock AEG I have seen to date.

 

Negative point include: (as said many times earlier) MARS, sometimes non-working single fire mode, weak magazine catch spring (I've dropped the magazine several times while in action, cured it by installing a stiffer spring).

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Did the same as Puding, use the hole closest to the rear sight, then drilled an extra hole in correspondence with the rail. Didn't have to dremel anything.

 

Neovenom: You maybe have lots of G36 rails lying around, but i know you also have a lot of g36's lying around ;-)

 

Actually I Don't. :)

Still have one and an SL9, that's it. sold all the others.

But who knows in time i might buy a couple ones again. :D

 

I installed a G36 rail as well, but I won't be drilling in the body part, I attached it firmly enough.

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After using it few times on skirmishes, I am fairly satisfied with the rifle. It is ergonomic, fast maneuvering, with strong body, no squeaking. Also, it is probably the most accurate stock AEG I have seen to date.

 

Negative point include: (as said many times earlier) MARS, sometimes non-working single fire mode, weak magazine catch spring (I've dropped the magazine several times while in action, cured it by installing a stiffer spring).

 

 

I agree with al the above! May i add; i find the hopup reall hard to get right, it's always either too much hop or not enough....

 

 

BUT it's a great gun.

 

WHere did you get such a spring, Hristo?

 

 

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I agree with al the above! May i add; i find the hopup reall hard to get right, it's always either too much hop or not enough....

 

took the tavor out today and had the same problem very very hard to dial the hop up in at the moment, going to take it apart tomorrow and see if we can do anything about this

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I would advise caution with a 11.1 lipo. I use an 7.4V lipo, and it works like a charm, the ROF's about in between what you get from an 8.4V and a 9.6V.

 

The hopup is similar as an M4's hopup. But I don't know if it'll perform any better with just another buckling.

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