DesertFoxRomel Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 DFRomel, that's hilarious. Few people stop to note: The minigun NEVER kills, or indeed HITS anything living in Predator. even in Terminator, it only kills cop cars. The Duck Hunt dog laffin' in spot-on! Suggested on another Forum: Put a ribbon on it that says "Save The Ta-Ta's! Hahaha Spoiler: After so many years of Miniguns in movies, it finally killed someone: A T-1000 killed a man climbing a wall with a minigun in Terminator Salvation. This is after a Minigun wielding T 1000 dies from a train suspension and before one gets owned by a steel rod Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Neat. I'll buy the movie on disc when it comes out at the inevitable $4 a copy, just to look at the hardware. Similar to League of Extraordinary Gentlemen, I'll watch the whole thing maybe once, and then go look for the good weapons shots. I'm gonna assemble (parts are in inventory already) TEN more 1919's: http://air-sharp.com/shopcart/product_info...products_id=175 Link to post Share on other sites
crackisbad Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 heh, plastic. Build one out of aluminum! This looks awesome, I would so rock it at a game, along with a panda suit! *moved to correct section* Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 heh, plastic. Build one out of aluminum! This looks awesome, I would so rock it at a game, along with a panda suit! *moved to correct section* Thanks! Dees (yes, the tightbore guy)bought a lic. to make them in aluminum. "Too expensive to make that way, nobody will pay the cost" I told him. Two years later, that's the case. He made one STUNNING 1919A6, that's it, and I'm quite sure he'd laugh at an offer of $2000 for it. Link to post Share on other sites
crackisbad Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 funny you should mention dees; he lives in my state and is coming out to our next event from my local team. And I am actually in the process of trading some of my airsoft stuff for some of his... Maybe I will talk to him there. offer him a couple batteries for the 1919A6 enough of the off topic though. Most of the cost of aluminum would be for boring out cylinders to the correct size right? couldn't you maybe find aluminum pipes the correct size already made? (note: I have never bought aluminum, nor worked with it so I have no idea if what I just said is crazy talk ) Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Half the cost of my guns is components. THEN we talk body parts. To make them from alum in my current designs, would cost insanely more. Tubing is available, as is sheet in proper sizes. First off, it needs an off the shelf airsoft mechanism and a modified RC servo for the ammo drive, so $170/gun. Material cost is negligible in light of processing cost. ANY metal will require liquid-cooled cutting, my CNC isn't designed for that. But it would be approximately $40 in materials and hardware for one gun. So I'd be farming out work, or buying a $20,000 machine, and then dividing the cost among the builds. Anticipating a reasonable sales volume of 100 units/year, and a two-year amortization of the machine cost, each gun would carry a $100 production cost. Incidentally, estimates from mfg.com come in about the same. The difference is MY time with the machine...$20/hr for the worst machinist's wages have $60 added per gun. So $160 for the components in metal. Then, we have second ops, and assembly. (In plastic, each 1919 gun takes 3, 8-hour days to complete). Say I work for a (sad, sad, sad) $10/hr, 5, 8-hour days for each gun, that's a $500 labor cost. Packaging for a 60lb gun (It will weigh 15lb in of itself), to Belgium (I've shipped six plastic guns there!) is going to be $50/unit, in bulk from Uline. Shipping for a 12x12x48, 75lb box to aforementioned locale is about $220. So totaled, actual cost is about $1200/unit. Standard wholesale (I have a company with bills to pay, insurance, etc) is DOUBLE actual cost, so Wholesale is $2300 per unit. That means a retailer has to ask DOUBLE that (this is standard in retail, look it up) wholesale price, so YOU walk into a store, see it priced at $4500.00 and walk out. You order a REAL "Parts Kit" for a 1919 from IMA-USA.com at $800, and cobble a working one up for about $200 more. So, I HAVE to keep these WELL under $1000/per, or it's pointless to do. Made of metal at that cost, they'd be horrible, because SO many corners would need to be cut. Link to post Share on other sites
crackisbad Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 ^ Makes perfect sense. I know I wouldn't even think about it at $4000+ Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Assembling an uber-short short ammo belt for Operation: Petticoat. An 18gauge wire serves as the "spine", alternated back-and-forth between links. A small knot at each end holds it all together securely. And then off to the sander with it to remove those production burrs. Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Mounts for the center "axle": Four very-simple 3.02" diameter discs, one 1" PVC butt-connector. ...huh-huh-huh, I said "butt connector"... The black metal pipe shown is the outer barrel robbed from the M14 airsoft gun donor. Connector is cut down to exactly 1.75" long, and bonded between the discs. I used a scrap chunk of 3" ABS pipe as a gluing fixture. Next, I'll turn grooves into the aluminum M14 barrel, and then the butt-connector will be filled with bondo to lock it in place. It will be as solid as a rock when I'm done. Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 The M14 barrel, with 4.25" removed, and the end just trimmed of paint. The grooves were cut at semi-random intervals (1/4 lathe knob turn-"fuzzy math"!), and it's ready to be bondo'd into place. Dang, I should have had the robot drill the fill and vent holes for the filling process. And cordless drills seem to be getting scarce around here! Those should do. Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Bondo is put into a baggie, kneaded for a few moments, and is ready. I tore off one corner of the baggie, stuck it into the bigger hole, and squeezed until it came out the small hole.* WHITE VINEGAR DISSOLVES HARDENING EPOXY RESIN. REPEAT:... Dad had 42 years to tell me this, and he never did. Don't be like my dad, and die without telling your kid the important stuff like this! *how many pervs are gonna stumble on this now? Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 This is where the mount slides in. It's snug, but it just fits into the main body tube. Notice the disc has a flat side, that's a cable path if needed sometime later in it's life. In my build here, it's just saving me some material. No reason the discs have to be full circles-contact in three locations will center the barrel pack properly. A couple taps with a rubber mallet were required to get it fully placed. that's good, because... Only two screws will be needed to locate the thing. Remember the little hole referred to when drilling the larger holes on the underside? Another hole 1.65" ahead of it has the two screws situated between the pair of barrel mount discs. The barrel mounts don't budge at all now, yet they can still be removed if needed. Next: The AmmoDrive. Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 Vacuum drive belt in place. And started adding the hardware. The drive motor/transmission, from what else? A Harbor freight cordless drill! The drive roller is made from a bolt and Oatey gray putty stick. I put a blob on the bolt, let it set, and turned it on the lathe. The completed, wired up grip. Both the hat switch and the trigger have to be pressed for firing, so either finger can be used for firing: thumb or index. Together, they are the "safety" for this gun, there will be NO on/off toggle. Link to post Share on other sites
crackisbad Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 very interesting... don't think I saw: what kind of battery will be powering this thing? Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 7-cell nimh pack, 3800mah. It goes in the delinker...well, it will tomorrow! Link to post Share on other sites
crackisbad Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 An 8.4v?? Does that drives the spinning barrel too? I guess jince its PVC its not that heavy so it wont need too much power... what kind of ROF do you expect with this? Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 An 8.4v?? Does that drives the spinning barrel too? I guess jince its PVC its not that heavy so it wont need too much power... what kind of ROF do you expect with this? About 900-1000. She should shoot about 400fps. Everything runs off the one power pack. The barrels are very light, but they ARE also very solid. They're fairly well balanced (thank CNC production for that) and true. The ammodrive is similar to the one on the T600: Inset: M4 hicap with modified RC servo tutorial here and chutes made from 3mm ABS sheet stock. about how the chute will mount. Off to the CNC to make the drive motor mounts. Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 Ammodrive in... My favorite flavor, cherry red. If you're over 40, you MAY get that musical reference! Link to post Share on other sites
kilo_64 Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 yar you need some white accents to go with the overall tone! your work is awesome killbucket How much did you shell out for the cnc machine? Link to post Share on other sites
Killbucket Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 yar you need some white accents to go with the overall tone! your work is awesome killbucket How much did you shell out for the cnc machine? www.shopbottools.com I have a 24 x 36 x 8 PRS Alpha system. Link to post Share on other sites
crackisbad Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 yar you need some white accents to go with the overall tone! .... he said he will just had an idea: what about adding wear to it like you did to the other one? then maybe it wont look like a toy so much... ~16RPS? Since this is a Minigun you should throw a MOSFET and lipo on that bad boy and punch it up to like 30+! Link to post Share on other sites
crackisbad Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 yar you need some white accents to go with the overall tone! .... he said he will just had an idea: what about adding wear to it like you did to the other one? then maybe it wont look like a toy so much... ~16RPS? Since this is a Minigun you should throw a MOSFET and lipo on that bad boy and punch it up to like 30+! Link to post Share on other sites
Stuey Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 That is a thoroughly good idea. Make it a bit special and different in performance to your average joe's M4 . Otherwise, totally awesome as always! BTW, do you have a buyer? Was this made to order? Stu. Link to post Share on other sites
Gooberz Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 he said he will just had an idea: what about adding wear to it like you did to the other one? then maybe it wont look like a toy so much... ~16RPS? Since this is a Minigun you should throw a MOSFET and lipo on that bad boy and punch it up to like 30+! Like Barbie just fought throuh hell. I can see it now, Barbie DOOM. I don't think that's what he's looking for, though. Link to post Share on other sites
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