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1. Removed the finish with 100 and 180 sanding paper.

2. Sprayed a thin layer of Tamiya red brown.

3. Sprayed everything matte black.

4. Wiped most of the black off with a rag and paint thinner.

5. Sprayed a thin layer of Tamiya linoleum deck brown.

6. I'll apply at least two layers of matte transparent finish.

 

I expect some of the paint to wear off for more realistic/battered look.

The rubber buttplate is a shortened, modified AK recoil pad.

 

That is all.

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I shot 100-150 BBs today to test accuracy. Target was a woodland overall (at kneeling height) at 60 meters.

Typical result was 6-8 hits out of 10 shots with .40s. Not bad.

 

Problem is, accuracy started to degrade after a while... Fps variation is OK (no more than 2-4), so I suspect the hopup rubber or deposit in the bore from the .40s. I'll try the Madbull Shark hop next week.

 

Short video of the test coming up.

 

svd-test.jpg

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^^My shark hop works well. I am excited to see how it compares to what you have been using.

 

 

 

I played my first serious all day skirmish today. I played 7 games on a map that wasn't very friendly for long range rifles and discouraged very much moving.

 

Observations:

 

-People like to check it out. Most don't even know about real sword

-Cheekpiece comes off with a hard enough 'bump'. This will need to be fixed so I don't have to constantly check it.

-POSP 4x24 M is more than sufficient for airsoft games. Rubber eyepiece is fun to use, but isn't needed.

-Unlike AKs, twisting your right arm through the sling a few times isn't enough to counterbalance the gun with tension. Wrapping the sling around the front sight with a tight fit works as a substitute.

-Accuracy and consistency are quite good with a MOFSET and .30g bbs (think .25 at lower FPS). At 515fps I was able to keep people out of my line of fire at ~85m (albeit, I didn't hit any and my bbs were falling in front of them. Nevertheless, I served my purpose by keeping heads down and worried that I might hit them)

-At 5'10, 170lbs, and in decent shape the gun was not extremely heavy nor did it strain my wrists. However, it was noticeable after a few games and the inability to effectively move the gun with a single hand is a big disadvantage in some situations. With more arm strength I would have less burden moving the gun around. I would say that its length and weight are manageable for experienced players.

 

 

Conclusions:

The RS SVD is an accurate rifle that turns heads and keeps them down in the process. It is entirely skirmishable stock or upgraded, but you won't see full potential without a precision barrel and new hop up. I do not recommend this rifle for anyone new to the sport or for someone who has problems with heavy/long rifles. If you have played airsoft for a number of years you will have a good idea of how to use the RS SVD and how to avoid substations where you may be disadvantaged. If you are small or even remotely think that you may be uncomfortable with maneuvering around ~14lbs then I suggest you reconsider. Its no wonder that a number of people sold their SVDs because of the weight. Don't make their mistake. I know I didn't.

 

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In stock form, apparently firing at 130m/s (according to RS) my SVD goes the straightest and farthest with .28s of the ammo's I've tried. Soon as I get my hands on some .3s, I'll try them too. .25s had quite an arch in their flight path to get the BB to go as far as the .28 would go strait. We're talking about 65-70m effective range.

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Installed black Madbull Shark rubber, but consistency didn't got much better.

Switched to Guarder 70 and black H-nub.

Performance improved, but no tests until midweek.

 

The Prometheus barrel didn't improve anything (as I expected) so I went back to the stock one.

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  • 2 weeks later...
1. Removed the finish with 100 and 180 sanding paper.

2. Sprayed a thin layer of Tamiya red brown.

3. Sprayed everything matte black.

4. Wiped most of the black off with a rag and paint thinner.

5. Sprayed a thin layer of Tamiya linoleum deck brown.

6. I'll apply at least two layers of matte transparent finish.

 

I expect some of the paint to wear off for more realistic/battered look.

The rubber buttplate is a shortened, modified AK recoil pad.

 

That is all.

You know, there is a easier way to get a semi-shiny black finish.

 

Get some enamel-based shiny black paint, the bake the metal parts in oven.

 

Baking it for 1 hour under 400 degrees will result in a extremely touch layer of paint that is semi-shiny but is smooth.

Edited by adadqgg
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone,

 

I'm a bit surprised that so far, none of you has mentioned the gearbox jam issue here.

Today, I installed a 8.4V 1600 mAh battery into mine and it is capable of shooting 5 times, than it jams.

In order to fix the problem, I went to the RS website and found the guide:

http://www.realsword.com.hk/faq5.htm#2

 

RS started manufacturing a special part that goes under gearbox and is able to switch the rifle into fullauto mode which

unlocks the gearbox.

http://www.realsword.com.hk/produc_hj.htm

 

Has anyone of you experienced this problem? What can be wrong? I know semi-auto mode causes jams sometimes,

but I don't think it should do after less than 10 shots..

 

Please help,

 

Cheers,

 

Ww

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i had the same problem

it means u pulled the trigger before the rifle did a full cycle

fix it with a mosfet

 

but thx for posting that part, any ideas where i could buy it?

 

(i fixed the jamming with some additional wiring and a switsh in my front hand guard to put it in FA)

 

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I'm a bit surprised that so far, none of you has mentioned the gearbox jam issue here.

Today, I installed a 8.4V 1600 mAh battery into mine

I fired hundreds of shots on a very high powered spring and never had a jam.

 

8.4v 1600mah sounds low powered to operate the rifle on stock spring.

You also have to learn to pull the trigger fully back (unlike with real guns) and wait until the cycle is finished.

 

 

 

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i had the same problem

it means u pulled the trigger before the rifle did a full cycle

fix it with a mosfet

 

but thx for posting that part, any ideas where i could buy it?

 

(i fixed the jamming with some additional wiring and a switsh in my front hand guard to put it in FA)

 

Hi there,

 

Thanks for your help.

 

I think you can buy this part directly from RS only :(

 

What do you mean by FA ?

 

Could you please explain how did you install the wiring and the switch? Have U got some scheme for this please?

 

Thanks,

 

Ww

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I fired hundreds of shots on a very high powered spring and never had a jam.

 

8.4v 1600mah sounds low powered to operate the rifle on stock spring.

You also have to learn to pull the trigger fully back (unlike with real guns) and wait until the cycle is finished.

 

What battery do you use?

 

Well I'm confused then..

 

Why does RS publish, that 7.2 V is enough for this rifle?

 

That sounds strange to me..

 

Ww

Edited by winterwolf
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With the stock spring (which in the unit I tested provided 460 fps with 0.2 g BBs) even 8,4 V 1100 mAh "mini" type batteries were enough energy for a reliable cycle. It's just a lot slower than usual, so you really need to keep the trigger all the way back until the cycle has finished.

 

The slow cycle doesn't mean that the battery and motor are struggling: the gear ratio is just really high torque, so the RPM is lower.

 

If you switch to a higher voltage battery, be sure to get a MOSFET circuit with active braking. Otherwise you'll risk premature engagement, because the piston stroke is long and the flat part of the sector gear is short. Another way to help prevent this problem is to use a stronger spring.

 

-Sale

Edited by Sale
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Hi there,

 

I finally found the root cause of my problem.

 

The problem was with cut off lever and the plastic trigger block that moves horizontally and connects the contacts.

the plastic part got stock sometimes on the cut off lever and it didn't move forward to connect the contacts.

I sanded down this plastic part a little (approx 0.3 - 0.4 mm) and it works fine now.

So, if there is someone else having the same problem, this is the solution :)

 

I have one more question.. Can I put a regular AEG spring into this gearbox? What would you recommend as a maximum?

 

Cheers,

 

Ww

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The gear ratio is 27,82:1 and on top of that the spring tension will be lower because the space for the spring is longer. I'd be confident with anything up to M160–M170. What I might do is switch the sector gear bearings to solid bushings.

 

-Sale

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