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jamesbernatchez

Real Sword SVD

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What I'd like to see more information about is

 

1. Outer barrel to receiver fit? How solid? Any play?

2. How is the outer bbl fixed to receiver?

3. How the stock hopup is handling heavy BBs?

4. Magazine wobble?

5. Magazine working with heavy BBs?

6. FPS consistency with high quality BBs?

7. Heard some 1st hand reports that trigger pull is stiff. Is that true?

8. Any info when the next batch is coming out?

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The HOP is quite weird. It looks vaugely similar to an M4/Version 2 HOP unit, but it doesn't work the same way.

 

Ben.

 

EDIT:: It almost looks like a Tanaka HOP. There is a threaded cog which winds down, and, I assume, applies the pressure to the bucking. Connected to this is a cog mounted vertically, which you turn to adjust the system.

 

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What I'd like to see more information about is

 

1. Outer barrel to receiver fit? How solid? Any play? the outer is one looong piece, feel solid, no play

2. How is the outer bbl fixed to receiver? looks like gbbr outer barrel

3. How the stock hopup is handling heavy BBs? didn't try with 0.40+ but 0.36 blaster are easily shot and straight

4. Magazine wobble? no

5. Magazine working with heavy BBs? i don't recommand straight/digicon bbs

6. FPS consistency with high quality BBs? don't know only tried 0.2 to confirm realsword quality control and it passed

7. Heard some 1st hand reports that trigger pull is stiff. Is that true? yes, need to pull until the bb get away or you can jam the gearbox

8. Any info when the next batch is coming out? there's already a second batch, some french players report a 500+ serial number

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Thanks guys.

 

Kimkafwan, can you elaborate, go into details on the "gbbr outer barrel"?

 

I'm particularly interested in how the very long (and heavy) outer barrel is fixed to the receiver since it was the weakest spot on the Atoz/KM SVD.

 

I'm gonna order mine as soon as it's not out-of-stock anywhere. :)

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First off, sorry for the intermittent picture quality. And this isn't really a review, just some pictures, blurb to go with them, then a conclusion. We'll see how it goes.

 

Right, let's get down to it.

Haven't seen a pic of the actual gears or piston yet, outside of the box they come in, so I took one.

DSCF1348.jpg

I found the fact one of these gears only has one set of teeth quite interesting, makes you wonder if it really increased the torque by having 4 gears at all. Still, it works to pull a m120 off a 7.2v battery, so it cant be that bad. Other than that, normal stuff.

 

Pictures for Tinkerbell:

DSCF1356.jpg

DSCF1349.jpg

 

For Thrasher, here's some pics of how the barrel attaches to the receiver.

DSCF1369.jpg

DSCF1372.jpg

I hope those are fairly self explanatory, but just to make sure. There's a couple of grub screws, down under the rear iron sight, turn them slightly loose, and you can fairly easily pull the barrel out the front. It might look like a pretty weak design. I certainly don't like the fact there's nothing for the screw to lock into, just a flat plane. Having said that, there's a good inch of metal to metal contact where the barrel seats in the receiver block. Once together, I've had no problem holding the gun horizontal, by the flash hider. It's of solid construction, and there's no movement when done up. The hop up parts and attachment help to keep the barrel in place as well, but not really as a load bearing measure, just an extra alignment help.

The only movement before you tighten the parts, is about 1mm of left right play at the front sight. To make sure I'm doing it up the same every time, I just make sure it's fully to the anticlockwise side, hold it, and then tighten the grub screw.

 

I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but it doesn't seem the stock hop will have any problems with heavyweight ammo. I adjusted it to full, and took a pic.

DSCF1386.jpg

Even if that's not enough, It's a AEG rubber. You could easily swap it out for a harder spacer and rubber combo.

 

The hop unit is interesting. Not seen anything like it before.

DSCF1368.jpg

Removing the inner barrel, by undoing the thumb screws, slide the outer barrel off the front, and pull the inner barrel and hop out the back. Take the screws out, and pull the top off, you're left with this

DSCF1383.jpg

Removing the 2 small metal tabs (as seen below, just left of center), lets you pull the bottom part off, and leaves you with this

DSCF1385.jpg

It gives you lots of play with the hop adjustment. You can turn it completely off, or all the way down, as seen farther up the page. Currently, there's no lateral movement in the hop parts, everything sits as you'd expect, and gives a nice strait line down on the hop up. I'm sure sure what metal this is made of though. I could see the threaded metal part becoming loose in it's sitting, and twisting left or right if the material is weak. Given the rest of the build quality though, I can't see this being an issue in an RS gun.

I've noticed though, the hop spacer, has a little room to move left to right. This is a serious concern, I've managed to sit it neatly at the moment, but useing some grease to keep it in place on the threaded part, but if it works left or right, it could cause bad hooking problems. First time I put it together, it was obvious that it was giving more pressure to the right side of the bucking. Then again, fairly simple to keep it central, maby chop a longer one from biro. Changing to a H spacer could be tricky however. If the accuracy lives up to everything I've seen though, you really wont need to.

 

Magazine wobble? No. You can move it left to right, but you can feel it's the strength of the mag latch spring that's keeping it central.

 

Trigger pull is stiff. I'm pretty sure this is down to a strong spring rather than a high resistance mechanism though. Depending on the spring type, it could be very easy to change. I didn't go into the gearbox.

 

The spring release device in this gun, is long winded. They have one, but it's not something you'll use mid game, not even after every game. It requires taking the whole gun down. You have to remove the hand guards, the top cover, the cocking parts, the fire selector and top cover holding levers, the motor grip cover, the barrel(s) and then the gearbox (after undoing a captive screw) and finally you just push this tool in this hole.

DSCF1380.jpg

RS recommend you decompress the spring if you're storing the gun for long periods of time. I'd agree, I wouldn't take down a gun once every other week. Never know what you might end up damaging.

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Speaking of damage, here's a pic of my broken fire selector.

DSCF1382.jpg

That little bit of bare steel on the right side of the cut out, is what's allowing the trigger to move into the gap. There's a very thin margin for safe on this gun. I'd imagine, even on a working gun, you could move the fire selector about 1/8th of the way down to the fire position from safe, and it would still fire without problem. Maby I got a duffer, or maby I was just too brutal with the trigger. I wasn't expecting it though, and I'm disappointed.

 

The battery compartment has been mentioned before I know. But it really is a *badgeress* to get into. Here's a picture of me preparing to move the gas parts :P

DSCF1359.jpg

I've struggled with mole grips, tube grips, pliers, cir-clip pliers (to hook in the inside and wiggle it off) and nothing worked, till I tried a screwdriver and hammer combo. It's seriously stiff, and you can see I've already started to scratch the paint. You need not worry about the condition of the wood though. RS have covered the tangs in metal sheet.

DSCF1360.jpg

Once you've got the front part forward, you can just pull the 2 haves apart. They're pushed forward from the rear iron sight end of the handguards, by a plate spring. Keeps them firm, even when not held by the gas parts. But it's not so stiff you'll need to do anything but pull them apart by hand.

 

Here's some pics I've yet to find descriptions to accompany. They're pretty self explanatory to be honest, just a few shots of the bits that come with the gun, such as cleaning rod and sight adjustment tool. Guessed some of you might wonder how it works, so I included that too :D. Picture of how the cheek rest mounts too. That thing just doesn't move when it's on, and provides a nice comfy seat for your big squishy face.

DSCF1350.jpg

DSCF1351.jpg

DSCF1353.jpg

DSCF1354.jpg

DSCF1357.jpg

DSCF1355.jpg

 

To be honest, I couldn't have asked for much more from this gun thus far. It's beyond solid, you can pick it up and hold it's weight horizontal from any part of the gun, no movement, no moaning. Disassembly is simple, if sometimes physical, but you'll love it for that. As to how well it skirmishes, well, that's a question for another day. Guess I'll order the battery for it tonight... Gotta be said it's pretty hefty, but I don't think that's going to be a problem for me. I'm not a big lad, I just don't move much :lol:

 

Well, I've tried to give a unbiased, even slightly negative view of what makes up this gun, but the truth is, I'm in love.

Can't wait to christen it.

 

Oh, and some beauty pics can be found here: http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk134/Jesus6000/SVD/

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Thanks for the details, I just ordered one! :)

 

I think you can fix the selector with "liquid metal" then reshape it with a file.

I'd modify the foregrip to recharge the battery without removing it.

 

What kind of battery you guys use with high fps setups? (500+)

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To remove the front handguard, push something through holes in wooden part, and use hammer, gently. It should work and you won't scratch the paint on the outside.

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Good idea Hristo, might try that. You dont it yourself perchance, what did you use? As for rewiring, I don't want to mod it so it looks different from the outside. To be honest, I don't want to mess with it at all. Chipped paint I can handle, not like I'll be selling it anyway.

 

I've searched far and wide for a Li-Pol that'll fit in the dimensions of a 8.4v mini. I figured if you could get a 7.4 end on end battery, it could fit easily. Can't find one though, and can't get anyone to remake it. Also the cost is putting me off. Even if I could get it, it would be over £80, when it's £25 for the ni-mh 8.4 I'll be useing. Prices include chargers.

 

If I can't get a replacement from RS, I'll look into the liquid metal option. I've got some super steel around here somewhere.

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Yes, I did that myself, used a small screwdriver, a no-brainer really. Just be careful to actually push the metal cap, not some other part fixed to the barrel.

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Thanks for the details, I just ordered one! :)

 

I think you can fix the selector with "liquid metal" then reshape it with a file.

I'd modify the foregrip to recharge the battery without removing it.

 

What kind of battery you guys use with high fps setups? (500+)

 

Where did you find it in stock and at a decent price? Or did you order it from RS directly?

 

Thanks for posting all that stuff up A.J, that is some good information. Guess I will have to get one now :) I have looked around and cannot find the dimensions of the magazine anywhere (I want to find out what pouches I need to get) is there any chance you could measure them for me?

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Approximately 83mm long, by 30mm wide at the top. Adding around 15mm for the catch lips. At the bottom, it measures around 88mm (including spine) by 38mm. For fitting in a mag pouch, you'd need one basically 100mm wide, and the mags could be counted at around 30-35mm wide. 110mm tall for all that matters. I can fit one, quite snugly, in a double M4 NSR mag pouch

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I ran it in a skirmish this past Sunday and did pretty well. I didn't use it all day, just for an hour or so and I got 3 confirmed hits. All over 100' using .36g. I find that the BBs fly pretty straight, but do veer left/right randomly. Haven't cleaned the barrel in a while so that might help. I found that if I was well concealed, and fired from far enough away they couldn't see where I was shooting from because the BBs are green. I had a blast and didn't find the accuracy to be a hinderence, due to the fact I was able to make follow up shots as quickly as needed.

 

Everyone wanted to see it, hold it, shoot it, etc. Nobody else has one so it is pretty elusive at our local field right now. :D

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I just ordered mine :D

 

I want to put in a 9.8v battery, and I know its going to be a tight fit. Does anyone with one know what types will fit and which won't?

 

Thanks again for everything, especially the magazine measurements.

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It's not Russian if it's made in Belarus ;) .

 

belaRUSSIAN... lol

 

yeah well technicaly your right.

 

but Belarus is AWSOME. plus thier flag is cool

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#270 reporting in!

 

Hand guards are a tight fit at first, but if you sand of the excessive lacquer from the metal parts, it becomes easy to remove.

 

Mine came with a terrible hop-up rubber, lobbing bullets all around. Changed it to a KM V-style hop-up, then the gun started double-feeding. Apparently the stock rubber had longer ''lips'', keeping bullets from rolling in the hop-up unit. I also noticed that the piston would often stop in the most rearward position, preventing the nozzle to block bb's from entering the hop-up unit.

 

Anyways, after installing an AB Mosfet ( to prevent the double feed ) and a black Madbull rubber, mine shoots incredibly well. Haven't tape measured distances yet, but it performed excellent at Berget ;)

 

A tip:

http://www.ebairsoft.com/firefox-111v-1600...ery-p-2089.html

 

These fit perfectly inside the handguard, with extra space for mosfet etc.

 

Here's mine:

IMG_6725.jpg

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So, when will some China company COPY this baby?

 

I can already see these things selling like hell with a 100-150USD price tag.

 

B.

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This is a Chinese company that makes them. I suspect getting a clone of this would cost more money than buying the original. These people already have the set up to produce the real variant of these rifles, and the material experience and fitters. Getting another factory kitted out to produce anything nearly as good in build quality would cost a lot. I wouldn't be surprised if some other Chinese company made a CA SVD copy soon though. It'll just be ali and nylon, won't be the steel and wood of the quality of the RS. Don't get your hopes up.

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This is a Chinese company that makes them. I suspect getting a clone of this would cost more money than buying the original. These people already have the set up to produce the real variant of these rifles, and the material experience and fitters. Getting another factory kitted out to produce anything nearly as good in build quality would cost a lot. I wouldn't be surprised if some other Chinese company made a CA SVD copy soon though. It'll just be ali and nylon, won't be the steel and wood of the quality of the RS. Don't get your hopes up.

 

Agreed. However there will probably be clones of the CA SVD. It just has more mainstream parts inside of it. I have no qualms in supporting RS either if the SVD is anything near what most people make it out to be. I guess I will now within a week :)

 

So, when will some China company COPY this baby?

 

I can already see these things selling like hell with a 100-150USD price tag.

 

B.

 

Whats interesting is that the RS SVD has flown off the shelves even at the $700 price tag. Granted they didn't make a large batch.

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So, when will some China company COPY this baby?

When was the last time when you saw a copy of ANY Real Sword product. :P

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I haven't seen the SVD in person, but the stock looks a bit bright in color. Is anyone besides me thinking about weathering the wood a little?

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