AR15 Picture Thread

[TheReaper]

Yep - the adapter is made by KingArms. I've got them on two of my guns. Link below..\

http://kingarms.com/productpage.asp?prodid=744

 

Hey, TheReaper, could you tell who makes that full-stock sling adaptor on your M4? I've been looking for something like that.

Edited September 7, 2009 by TheReaper

[J-Rock_14]

Thanks for the link. :]

[fiddlesticks4220]

Has anyone here tried to install A VFC outer barrel on A G&P reciver???? Im haveing some fitment issues??\HELP

[uscmCorps]

Has anyone here tried to install A VFC outer barrel on A G&P reciver???? Im haveing some fitment issues??\HELP

I've installed G&P and KA barrels on VFC receivers but not the other way around yet. What kind of problems are you having?

[fiddlesticks4220]

The VFC outer barrel is WAY to thick to fit in the G&P reciver, Like wise it is also to thick to fit in KA/G&G/ICS/Star/Marui MBKs as well.

[leejinwen]

magpul free

Edited September 7, 2009 by leejinwen

[-=OGGY=-]

Very nice!

[babybackribs]

I'm curious about buffertube battery placement as well. Is there easy access to the battery itself?

This is what I did when I had my Stubby Killer:

 

 

No mods needed. I just put the extra wiring in the stock.

[uscmCorps]

Whan, I've been wanting to buffertube my battery, but I can't find details on the mod. How is your wiring set up?

Whan asked me about that a while ago and this is the description I gave him (my responses are in red):

 

Do you have to mod the gun/tube in any way to accomodate a lipo?

Depends on how your stock tube is currently designed and setup. Most buffer tubes can accept a lipo battery but the depth within the buffer tube isn't optimal. As a result, the battery will stick further out the back of the buffer tube preventing you from collapsing the stock beyond half way down. G&P and KA make buffer tubes that are designed to maximize the amount of space available for a lipo:

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=26526

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=24005

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=26809

 

To use them, you have to modify the back of your receiver a little. You need to shorten the extrusion that sticks out the back of your lower receiver which the buffer tube mounts onto. Mine's pretty short now, probably about a little over 2cm. Which is much shorter than most and that's because I had to cut it down using a saw/dremel to work with the new buffer tube.

• When you get the new buffer tube feel inside the end of it that mounts closest to the gun. It'll feel thicker for a short distance and then step down to a wider inner diameter. Measure how long that thicker part is.

• Then measure the thickness of the receiver end plate you're going to use.

• Add the two lengths (end plate thickness + thicker length of the buffer tube) and you should cut the lower receiver's buffer tube mount/extrusion to that length. When cutting, make the length of the extrusion just a little longer than your original measurement as you can remove more later on if needed.

• Once you've cut it down, install the buffer tube. If you find that with the screw fully screwed in, the buffer tube is still able to pull away from the receiver a little, measure how far you can pull it away from the receiver and cut just a little more than that length by 1mm or 2mm. After that, the next time you install the buffer tube, it should lock down nice and tight onto the lower receiver. You'll still find that because of wires and connectors in the way, you can't collapse the stock completely but you'll be able to collapse it most of the way.

• You may also need to dremel off a little material on the lower receiver where the wires come out the back of the receiver to ensure they don't pinch.

• When collapsing the stock, don't ever force it! The last thing you want to do is damage the battery or any wires!

 

Do you have to take off the CTR every time to access the Battery?

Yes. You get used to it. It's a small sacrifice for a bad åss look. I extend the stock all the way out, with the barrel pointing down and the front end between my knees, I depress the stock's latch with one hand and using the other hand I pull the latch's pin that little extra bit the allows the stock to pull free. Takes just a couple seconds and no tools are needed. I use rubber pads on all my CTRs so this is the only way to do it.

 

I'm trying to go with the lowest possible cost setup (not much cash on hand), and I don't have any chargers or lipo sacks. Do I really need a liposack, or can I make one.

I've never used a lipo sack myself, but I'm also very careful to never leave the batteries alone while charging and I'm very careful when transporting them. I don't have expensive lipo chargers but they get the job done, and I keep an eye on them.

 

Would this:http://rsov.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=1760

+ this http://www.ebairsoft.com/firefox-intellige...40v-p-2409.html

 

That battery could work. Personally I prefer batteries with a 20C Discharge rating like these:

http://rsov.com/index.php?target=products&...product_id=3469

http://www.boomarms.com/sc/viewproductdeta...?ProductID=2695

 

I rewire all my batteries to Deans (Female on the battery).

 

The charger you linked to is probably fine too.

 

 

 

The VFC outer barrel is WAY to thick to fit in the G&P reciver, Like wise it is also to thick to fit in KA/G&G/ICS/Star/Marui MBKs as well.

 

Hmmm... that's odd indeed. The KA and G&P barrels went on fine, but if the VFC barrel is too thick, you could either modify it or what's a lot easier is though more expensive is to buy a KA or G&P barrel. Is there a particular reason why you need to use the VFC barrel?

[j3T]

Yeah, I dunno. I had an idea in my head and this is what came out of it. Not really sure if I like it, especially the Mk18 ras that doesn't really look like FDE at all. I'm going to hack up the lower rail in a few minutes in order to mount a VFC EGLM, perhaps I'll like it better then

 

Edited September 8, 2009 by j3T

[L4byr1nth]

Heya guys.

 

Want to put a RIS on my WE M16A3. I'm looking at the LaRue copy.

 

Which size is M16 length? 7.5"? 9"? 12"? 13.2"?

 

I'm about to buy the 12" model, but want to be sure.

 

Ben.

[gerrysnaps]

Yeah, I dunno. I had an idea in my head and this is what came out of it. Not really sure if I like it, especially the Mk18 ras that doesn't really look like FDE at all. I'm going to hack up the lower rail in a few minutes in order to mount a VFC EGLM, perhaps I'll like it better then

 

@j3T Incidentally that's what I had in mind if I had all the funds today to change up my JG GBBR. You've made me think twice and saved me a ton of change.

Edited September 8, 2009 by gerrysnaps

[tangman]

Heya guys.

 

Want to put a RIS on my WE M16A3. I'm looking at the LaRue copy.

 

Which size is M16 length? 7.5"? 9"? 12"? 13.2"?

 

I'm about to buy the 12" model, but want to be sure.

 

Ben.

 

Considering the M16 barrel length is 20", then I think none of the above

 

All those copies are made for the M4 series afaik..

 

[reaper16]

@labrinth

 

M16 barrel is 20 inches, if you get the 12 inch, 8 inches of barrel will be left on the end, if you get the 13.5, 6.5 inches will be left. It just depends on how much outer barrel you want to have showing, and if you want to train the standard front sight block.

[uscmCorps]

@labrinth

 

M16 barrel is 20 inches, if you get the 12 inch, 8 inches of barrel will be left on the end, if you get the 13.5, 6.5 inches will be left. It just depends on how much outer barrel you want to have showing, and if you want to train the standard front sight block.

Well he could use a Fixed Front Sight/gas block with the rail still. That'll eat up another 2-3 inches of barrel space.

[reaper16]

Well he could use a Fixed Front Sight/gas block with the rail still. That'll eat up another 2-3 inches of barrel space.

 

 

Yes, but with a 13.5 inch rail, I believe that would cover the roll pin slots for the front sight no?

[uscmCorps]

Hmmm ... perhaps. How's about a VLTOR Folding Front Sight / gas block tower? That bolts down rather than use the roll pins/

[L4byr1nth]

I would add that I'm an AR n00b, and have no idea what you guys are talking about when it comes to gas blocks and roll pins.

 

I measured the handguards as 12", so surely a 12" RIS would be a direct replacement? Or would it look too short?

 

Does anyone have a picture of an M16-length rifle with a rail system attached? It's better if I can see what it'd look like.

 

I want something like this;

 

 

Ben.

[ianhaz]

Thats an M5 RAS, im pretty sure ebaybanned sell the dboys version and if its anything like my Dboys CNC RAS then its a good choice, recommend you look for someone who has one first though, chinese rails seem to be very hit and miss

[L4byr1nth]

What, you mean this?

 

http://www.ebairsoft.com/style-metal-p-2125.html

 

How long do you think that is? 12"? - The exact rail I was looking at was this;

 

http://www.ebairsoft.com/ar15-handguard-tube-p-2493.html

 

I've never tried changing the handguards on an AR, let alone fitting a RIS/RAS

 

Ben.

[evansy]

Ben

That 12" larue free float rail you linked to should stop at the front sight. I dont know if it'll fit your WE M16 though as its got an AEG barrel nut on it and I don't know if the threads are the same.

The first one you linked to should go straight on as it just replaces the standard hand guards. You will most likely need a toothed barrel nut to fit it though so double check you have that if you go for that option.

[[NL]Infinity]

As a reference, this is what a 12" looks like on an m16 (kingarms rail, ICS m16)

Evansy is probably right about the thread btw.

 

Edited September 8, 2009 by [NL]Infinity

[L4byr1nth]

That's the look I was going for, cheers lads!

 

Ok, so delta ring (barrel nut, right?);

 

How do I know if mine's toothed? (told you I was an AR n00b )

 

I think that M5 sounds like the safest bet. The LaRue is nice, but I'm still not sure, and nobody can tell me whether it'd fit or not. Wonder what delta ring I'd need for the M5 if mine doesn't work, though?

 

Ben.

[fiddlesticks4220]

Hmmm... that's odd indeed. The KA and G&P barrels went on fine, but if the VFC barrel is too thick, you could either modify it or what's a lot easier is though more expensive is to buy a KA or G&P barrel. Is there a particular reason why you need to use the VFC barrel?

 

Hmmm, I really wanted the nicer of the steal barrels I could find........ Guess I will have to use an element or break out the bits. *fruitcage* !!!!!

[raito]

Mine