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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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Can someone just confirm the following for me:

 

It will only take Milspex grips and stocks.

It will accept standard TM type front ends and conversion kits.

 

I'm pretty sure that's yes on both counts, but this thread is 119 pages long and i've been reading it over a few days.

 

Cheers.

 

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LT. Fenix,

 

No offense but your tone is bringing down this thread.

 

I get the feeling that you have issues with rottenotto and the information he posts but I also notice he has risen above it and is ignoring you which is probably what more people will start to do if you continue your slur.

 

He may be wrong, I dont know as I have not yet bought a WE M4, but in the near future when I do buy one I will PM him for any advice I may need because he has been contributing for the benefit of the rest of this community.

 

If you disagree you could just try posting your own informative opinion while neglecting to comment on his.

 

Kind of a late response, but anyway...

 

Look, I tried a while back, If you can even find it anymore since this thread has been extremely inflated.

And he hasn't risen above anything. if you look back all he has said was essentially "your views are contrary to mine, therefore you don't know what's going on," or "you're not contributing." He never made any attempt to present any arguments. He just can't handle logical arguments, period. His only response is to lie. Oh yes, and also to ridicule. If anything he has stooped lower and lower for every subsequent post.

 

It's great that he's helping people, making hourly posts because he apparently has no other obligations to fulfill, but does that justify him being a *beep* to one person? It almost seems to me that he's simply an attention-######...

 

But you know, I can't quite stoop so low as he can, to make some sort of childish statement in my signiture. Well, maybe it actually suits him; I can imagine that guy saying Forrest Gump's line with the broken southern accent due to his sub-80 IQ mental handicap.

 

If anything, the insults have gone both ways. And even if everyone starts ignoring my posts, I could care less. It's not like I'll be able to stop anyone from doing so anyway. As long as someone can get some amount info/help from my posts, which again if anyone can even find them anymore, I won't care.

 

With that said, here's another (previously posted) way one could modify the RS charging handle to grab the proper part of the bolt carrier, if anyone even remembers anything about it.

 

Socket head screw with counterbore to get proper clearance for the bolt.

Advantage over roll pin: More material can be left between the drilled hole and the back wall since the screw head is wide. The hole can be drilled right in the middle instead of close to the edge, so it's more durable.

WE_CH_screw_1.jpg

WE_CH_screw_3.jpg

 

Seems to work perfectly so far for me.

Edited by Lt.Fenix
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<snip>

 

Can't wait to get it, sounds like really great stuff. If only it was cheaper and more easily available...

 

 

I took a close look at part #59 and pretty much came up with the same conclusion. The hammer hits it, but it doesn't look like it really has to do much at all. The big block behind it and the top corner of part of the "U" of #59 look to take most of the heavy lifting.

 

Maybe you just got a bad part? Not really sure but hopefully that's what happened. Better than the alternative, at least.

 

It really sucks that you can't get another separately, too. Maybe you could make one from what you have? I don't think it would be too difficult with the proper tools and skill.

 

Edit:

 

<snip>

 

Interesting. Any info with on the screw, or is it just a spares bin part? I'm assuming you had to countersink the screw quite a bit?

 

 

I generally don't like to get involved and this is way off topic, but if you two could just drop it with each other it would be much appreciated by us all I'm sure. Neither one of you guys are being particularly polite to each other and I can understand to some extent where you're each coming from, but it's just not worth it. Everyone's been helpful so far, so let's not ruin it with a personal disagreement? :)

Edited by Chris North
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Looking at this part 59... surely its not beyond the wit of man to get a bit of sheet steel the same thickness, mark out the correct shape and then bend it 90 degrees to suit.

 

If you're feeling really flash, you could even do it out of stainless (bit of a bugger to bend though).

 

I really hope I'm not getting myself into a world of hurt with this, mine is on its way as we speak.

 

At least we can look at it as a point of failure and try to counter it as soon as possible. Aftermarket parts anyone!!!

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Hi Chef!

 

Yes, I will have to make one. If you want to skip the bending part, just find something in the garage that is made from steel and already has a crisp bend. Like a sheetmetal drawer from a filing cabinet.

 

Thats what I plan to do.

 

My gun is down and out at the moment until I fix that one part.

 

Chris,

I figured out what and how part #59 came apart. It starts to split in the left and right corners on the sides of the firing pin.

 

The hammer hitting it, right at that spot, starts to tear each corner while flattening the center right on the edge.

 

Once it began to split, the firing pin, being leveraged to the left and right on every hit, accelerated the crack until it just split right down the fold.......plink, off it came.

 

When I make one, I may drill a single hole in the corners of each tab - left and right side of the hammer pin. The hole will keep the corners from splitting. A trick I learned when you crack a cymbal (drums). The round hole drilled right at the end of the crack keeps it from spreading.

 

If I decide to do this, I will do it while the piece is still flat. Then I will just bend it right on the holes. Should be nuke proof.

 

 

 

 

As for Lt Fenix, I will only say this one time,...DROP IT!

 

I have risen above your petty attitude over and over again choosing to ignore you because NO MATTER WHAT I SAY you want to continuously battle over semantics and "who posted what first" - NONE OF THAT is a contribution to this thread.

 

If you want to argue, go argue with your sister.

 

You have something against me and keep attacking me in posts and PM's, non stop. If you dont like me, then IGNORE me, but just LET IT GO....for the sake of EVERYBODY.

 

Ill do this for you....I will remove the signature below if you agree to just "go our separate ways". I want you to knock off the personal *chaffinch* in every one of your replies, its a bummer.

 

Give me a virtual "hand shake" here with a PM acknowledgement and its done.

 

Cool?

 

 

 

 

Edited by rottenotto
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Cobbcore11 - PM'd back.

 

Just a quick note here.....today I tried a couple different brands of "green gas" rather than Propane as I have been using for years now.

 

LORD!!

 

LOL.....what a mess. The two brands I have, were purchased on eBay. They should have called them "Cans of silicone, with a little gas added"

 

My gun was venting so badly it looked like Wraiths a few pages back. Silcone fog blowing out the barrel.

 

DROOL coming from everywhere. Then a colossal bb jam.

 

NO MORE GREEN GAS. Propane only, where I can control the silicone/krytox content.

 

I think it's obvious that the invention of the propane adapter KILLED the canned green gas market. I see that the cans got a lot smaller, and the price stayed the same. And they are mixing in way too much silicone to bring their cost down.

 

Its garbage......way, way, WAY too much silicone. It mucks up the gun badly.

 

If anybody cares to know which brands, one was a Yellow Can and was advertised as having "New Car Scent". (swear :D )

 

The second was a Green can that said "competition grade"... lol! Pure garbage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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If anyone is interested I will likely be selling one of my WE m4s with a faulty trigger unit. PM me for more details or if you are interested. I will also probably include some goodies with the gun aswell.

 

I might also split up my trigger unit, if you are like rottenotto and are looking for specific parts and don't want to pay the $100 for the complete set.

Edited by Cobbcore11
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If anyone is interested I will likely be selling one of my WE m4s with a faulty trigger unit. PM me for more details or if you are interested. I will also probably include some goodies with the gun aswell.

 

I might also split up my trigger unit, if you are like rottenotto and are looking for specific parts and don't want to pay the $100 for the complete set.

 

Hey Cobb, what's wrong with it...maybe it's something we can get fixed. Is it just a single part in the trigger pack that has failed?

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About part #59, isn't having sharp bends on metal actually weaker than say having it rounded a bit? Any force exerted on the bent prongs might just get focused on the fold itself. If it were radiused (like the cylinder window mod on a V2 gearbox) the forces are dispersed. Also, spring steel would be loads tougher.

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About part #59, isn't having sharp bends on metal actually weaker than say having it rounded a bit? Any force exerted on the bent prongs might just get focused on the fold itself. If it were radiused (like the cylinder window mod on a V2 gearbox) the forces are dispersed. Also, spring steel would be loads tougher.

 

That would largely depend on where the force is being exerted. At least in my limited knowledge of stress concepts. If the force of the hammer is hitting primarily at the top edge of it, a straight edge there may be better for longevity because it directly transfers the energey through the large flat peice (and thus to the two screws holding it in. That explains the strange stress marks on the holes where the screws are located. Thats assuming it hits the top edge with the most force. If it hits uniformly then a rounded edge may help distribute it through the rest of the parts.

 

My speculation on this, is that the force is more concentrated towards the top (explaining the marks on part #59 that were in Rot's pictures). As that plate on the top slides, it bends the prongs out on the part that holds the firing pin in. As the hammer continues to hit part #59, it tears at the corners (because the top plate is now pushed back, etc) of the prongs, causing them eventually to fail.

 

My wonder is, what would happen if you put a peice of suborothane or something there, not enough to impede the hammer from completely cycling the firiing pin, but enough to dampen the blow so that peice #59 is less prone to moving? Or maybe the screws just need to be tightened down a little bit more? Any way you cut it though, a stronger peice should be made. We shouldnt be getting the folding we are seeing on that peice from just standard use.

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About part #59, isn't having sharp bends on metal actually weaker than say having it rounded a bit? Any force exerted on the bent prongs might just get focused on the fold itself. If it were radiused (like the cylinder window mod on a V2 gearbox) the forces are dispersed. Also, spring steel would be loads tougher.

 

 

You are very correct.

 

The WE part is both a sharp bend and cheap metal. It gave out easy.

 

My closeup pics make the part look huge. Look at yours inside the gun. It is a tiny part without much room. The bend has to be pretty neat and tight unfortunately. Not much room for a soft round bend.

 

Better metal will make the part last Im sure. (heres hoping!!)

 

 

PS...

 

Nice post UrPeaceKeeper ;)

Edited by rottenotto
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Having looked at Otto's pics, the bit looks pretty small (less than 50mm overall) and has to go through that 90 degree bend pretty sharpish.

 

I don't think there is much of a way around this.

 

Using a better quality steel and then annealing (heating up) the metal after it has been bent should relieve some of the stress that gets put into the metal by the bending process. This should reduce the likelihood that it will split in that area again.

 

Also, putting some small drill holes in the corners will disipate any forces exerted there. We used this technique on Aluminium panels when building monocoque shells for sportscars.

 

definitely worth looking at Stainless Steel for this, its impact resistance is pretty good.

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Three that have reported in this thread, anyhow.

 

rottenotto posted a while ago (not going to bother finding the post, sorry) that you can stick the ends of a pair of small needle nose pliers inside two of the four holes in the valve and unscrew it after you've removed the silver rod. It's a little difficult to turn at first and you may not have a proper pair of pliers, but short of rigging you're own tool it's probably the best way to go.

Edited by Chris North
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Have any of you been able to modify your 330 fps valve sets to produce close to 400 fps? Between the two current valve sets available so far, it strikes me that there's a definite market for a valve set (or series of different valve sets), that cover a wide range of velocities. For example, most events I attend here in the US have a 376 fps Max on 0.25g BBs. So I'd like a valve set that rates just below that. The 330 fps/0.2g BB valve set is way too weak, and the stock 500+ fps valve set is way WAY too strong.

 

On another note, I tested a WE the other day at AEX. The finish appeared to be that of the Gen.1s, but they're listed on the website as Gen 2s. That said, before I even got one shot off, another customer pulled back the charging handle and it broke in half. Is this still an issue for the Gen 2 WE rifles? Fortunately I have a spare real steel charging handle and may have to mod that to work with the WE once my buddy's arrives from AirsoftBuddy.

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So my part 37 is gone, I guess I tightened it too much and it shredded.

 

That being said I can NOT get the nozzle to sit in line with the bolt carrier at all, how the HELL do you get it lined up right!

 

No matter what I do it leans to the right if I'm looking at it head on. It leans even more when I tighten it, its quite upsetting.

 

EDIT: Tried the new valve with it centered as well as I could. It still doesnt work right, the blowback is erratic and the gun starts throwing extra gas out the ejection port and barrel after a few shots. I think this is it for me guys, this was my last hope for airsoft. I think I'm finally done with this sport. After being burned by escort and sniper x and now this 700 dollars wirth of paperweight in my living room...yeah, im done.

 

Anyone want to buy a WE M4 with 6 mags, an extra bolt, a bearing roller and a bunch of orings?

Edited by wraithxt1
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I have the so called V.1 and I have the stock charging handle and the stock bolt stop still and have little wear. The issues I have had are the 122 which I replaced with the #83 o-ring it seems to work better actually. Also the hop-up over hoping with I fixed by replacing the stock green rubber nub with a modified AEG outer bucking sleeve. I wish I had picks but I located the nub on the inner part of the sleeve that catches the BB. I cut and modified it in to the WE hopup unit. The thing that I had to do to make in work was take a small piece of wire insulation( outer rubber) and cut a very very small piece and dropped it in the hopup chamber and put the steel ball in it and it works flawless. It stopped the curving because it contacted more of a surface area of the BB. The big problem I'm having now is #42 broke off in the valve. I don't have a small enough set of needle nose pliers to fit in the lower piece of the valve to unscrew the nozzle to remove the broken pieces out.....Otto any advise would be much appreciated.

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So my part 37 is gone, I guess I tightened it too much and it shredded.

 

That being said I can NOT get the nozzle to sit in line with the bolt carrier at all, how the HELL do you get it lined up right!

 

No matter what I do it leans to the right if I'm looking at it head on. It leans even more when I tighten it, its quite upsetting.

 

EDIT: Tried the new valve with it centered as well as I could. It still doesnt work right, the blowback is erratic and the gun starts throwing extra gas out the ejection port and barrel after a few shots. I think this is it for me guys, this was my last hope for airsoft. I think I'm finally done with this sport. After being burned by escort and sniper x and now this 700 dollars wirth of paperweight in my living room...yeah, im done.

 

Anyone want to buy a WE M4 with 6 mags, an extra bolt, a bearing roller and a bunch of orings?

 

I'm feeling the same way bro....I've sold a lot of high end AEGs to get this thing and I've been burned by it. The biggest problem for me is there are no retailers here in the states. I dont fell like spending $19 shipping for a $16 part.

Edited by HSOJGNILRAD
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