Whudafxup Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) Definietly part #122, the roller bearing upgrade set, #42, #37, and maybe even the power reduction and upgrade kits or the CNC aluminum bolt set that should be released soon.. Edited February 11, 2009 by Whudafxup Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crimsonfalcon07 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Actually, it would be preferable to get a fix to the brass cylinder that is causing part 122 to fail. Also, bolt handles are still evidently breaking. Improve the quality of the material, or else stock the EdGI upgrade that I've been talking to Ed and Ben about. Roller bearing would be great, although I'm not having any issues with the stock one so far. An improved part 59 would be nice too. From reading through the thread, those are the biggest issues cropping up. Â Also, I'm going to be looking at the hopup next, since the gun is really not very accurate in stock form. Maybe they can slightly rework it so we can at least install, say, an H-nub or a Shredder Concave spacer or something? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slu Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) Hey guys been trying to keep on track with the all info in this thread but it's too much to keep track of it all. I am a US retailer that sells this rifle and I am working with James Chan from the WE Factory on getting some parts support here in the USA right away. I know they have plans in the future to have 100% parts availability in the USA from a distributor.  What I would like to know is what part #'s specifically are having the most common failures or you would like to see stocked. Not sure if I could supply every one of them but most importantly the ones that commonly seem to be the issue.  While Airsoft Buddy does an awesome job, I like you don't want to see people keep having to pay $19.00 for a 10.00 part. It's not their fault that international shipping is so expensive.  (now for self-fish plug) I will be one of the first retailers to be receiving the black and tan SCAR as well as the MP5 SD's that are slated to be produced and any other rifle for that matter. While the website needs allot more upgrading it works still in it's ugly state.  www.airsoftammosupply.com  Great to hear, hopefully your prices will be reasonable. The MP5SD is news to me. Edited February 11, 2009 by slu Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 wow, first i heard that they were doing MP5SDs, sweet. Â crimson, WE is redoing the Hopup if you havent heard yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSOJGNILRAD Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 rfisherjr......Thanks for the help bro. I put the WE on the side until parts were obtainable. One part that you should also check out is part # 118( green rubber nub). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rfisherjr Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 So here is a working list of parts you would like to see stocked... Â Part #34 (roller bearing) Part #37 Part# 42 Part #118 Part #122 Charging Handles Power Reduction and upgrade kits Steel Bolt catch Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kimkafwan Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 ONLY real steel grips will fit our WE. Â I know but i asked because there is a small spring inside the WE grip. If i bought a rs grip should i have to drill a hole? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carsten Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 no.. that hole/system is a real steel copy.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1st Commando Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Those of you in the UK that have preordered your WE M4 from LandWarrior , looks like you should recieve them on monday guys  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 no.. that hole/system is a real steel copy.. Â Carsten is correct. Â That tiny spring is called the "detent" for the safety switch. Â It is what holds the safety switch in, and makes it "click". Â This is how a Real AR15 works. Â Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pollux77 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) Hey otto, Â I don't know if I'm too late for that, but look here: Parts #59 for WE Gas Blow Back M4 Â 93$ saved - how about 50$ for me? Edited February 11, 2009 by Pollux77 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eliminator Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 I just received my RS Charging Handle from GunAccessoiries.com. It fits without any mods and works fine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whudafxup Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Â Â Also for another "upgrade" part the roller bearing set - Â http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_view.php?products_id=213 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) I think aside from those parts spare, I think WE needs to strengthen/redesign them for a permanent fix. I will be damned if I have to change out a part #42 because there is no way to get into that nozzle to remove the floating valve without the specific tools. I would need an entire bolt assembly. The replacement I got from AB for is still made from the same materials and will fail just the same as before. (Thanks AB though, he did this free of charge) Â Also WE needs to fix their mag valves and mag design. All mine leaks, and from 10*C to 30*C screws loosen and metal plate that holds the gas reservoir expands differently from the magazine creating leaks near the valve and at the valve itself. Â I do know how well the design is compared with the WA that minimises cooldown, but that is really very disconcerting when leaving the mags for a day means they all leak out, and when refilling it then hisses like a wet cat, all 7 mags. Edited February 11, 2009 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whudafxup Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 For those of you who have had your part #42 destroyed. Are you using the #83 o-ring in stead of the part #122? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carsten Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 I do know how well the design is compared with the WA that minimises cooldown, but that is really very disconcerting when leaving the mags for a day means they all leak out, and when refilling it then hisses like a wet cat, all 7 mags. ..as I said before, all my new mags don't leak, they are 100% leak-free.. the last time I shot the rifle was last saturday,.. since then I left my mags in my backpack.. Â I just checked them --> still ready to fire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crimsonfalcon07 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) Well, mine seems to be holding up nicely. Currently in Mk12 mod 1 configuration. I modded the stock grip into a molded SPR style grip made for a lefty, using some liquid nails and some sand mixed together to make a putty (the caulk stuff works better) to mold the right shape, and then painted on wood glue and sand until I had the right texture and smoothness once it hardened. Â Stock is still LE, will be changing that. Also added a custom mock suppressor made out of PVC and steel, using the plastic flashhider that came with mine. Still need a scope and maybe a swan sleeve, and probably the VLTOR Clubfoot stock, but other than that, very pleased with the externals so far: Â Â I can put up a tutorial for the grip if anyone wants to save themselves some money and make a nice custom grip. Â Edited February 11, 2009 by crimsonfalcon07 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) Nah I was using the Part 122 when it died. It has fired over 5000 rounds. Â Strange with the mags, I have the black one that comes with the gun, then the grey ones when the mags first came out, and they all leak. I just bought new ones from AB I will test those. Edited February 11, 2009 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slu Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 ... Â What type of barrel is that? Looks longer than 14.5" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crimsonfalcon07 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 It's the stock M4 length barrel that comes with the gun, actually. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Anyone know an easy way to open the nozzle and reach the part 42? I just saw on AB there is a part 42 which is different from the part 42 that failed (and the one I have been resent). Can someone assist me in this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris North Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Anyone know an easy way to open the nozzle and reach the part 42? I just saw on AB there is a part 42 which is different from the part 42 that failed (and the one I have been resent). Can someone assist me in this?  Grip the silver rod with needle nose pliers. Put something between the jaws and the silver rod do not to mark/scar it up. Simply unscrew the brass valve/nozzle assembly from the rod.  To disassemble the valve itself, look at where the silver rod threads into the brass. There are slots or indents around the hole.  Take the same needle nose pliers, using the tips of the jaws to turn the base - it unthreads right out.  Done.  The part that you saw is a valve that should reduce power. It seems to be working pretty much the same (although BBs do seem to hit a lot less hard). I'd have to agree that the low power valve will probably never have the same problem with snapping that the high power one has because of its heavier construction.  The newer (as in more recent than the first batch) valve assemblies seems to have slightly different inner dimensions, so depending on when yours is from the valve may not fit. If I were you I'd just buy a whole new nozzle and rod assembly just to be on the safe side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) I got the rod out, that was easy. Â For the rear part of the nozzle, I tried that, it wouldn't unscrew. I have scarred the nozzle as well as the rear part now. Is there a tool I can use to take it apart? Edited February 11, 2009 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulB Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 I got the rod out, that was easy. For the rear part of the nozzle, I tried that, it wouldn't unscrew. I have scarred the nozzle as well as the rear part now. Is there a tool I can use to take it apart?  I have just replaced the valve this evening. First i tried the pliers, no joy. I ended up placing two precision screwdrivers in two of the slots, then gripped them with pliers and twisted it off. It was tight on there, but gave way eventually.  I will chrono the new valve tomorrow, BTW my assembly was a version one and it seems to work ok. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rws591 Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Could someone measure the pistol grip screw for me please? I lost mine, and would like to know the size it was, because I don't exactly feel comfortable lugging a M4 around Lowes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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