Jump to content

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 7.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

Posted Images

Actually, it would be preferable to get a fix to the brass cylinder that is causing part 122 to fail. Also, bolt handles are still evidently breaking. Improve the quality of the material, or else stock the EdGI upgrade that I've been talking to Ed and Ben about. Roller bearing would be great, although I'm not having any issues with the stock one so far. An improved part 59 would be nice too. From reading through the thread, those are the biggest issues cropping up.

 

Also, I'm going to be looking at the hopup next, since the gun is really not very accurate in stock form. Maybe they can slightly rework it so we can at least install, say, an H-nub or a Shredder Concave spacer or something?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hey guys been trying to keep on track with the all info in this thread but it's too much to keep track of it all.

 

I am a US retailer that sells this rifle and I am working with James Chan from the WE Factory on getting some parts support here in the USA right away. I know they have plans in the future to have 100% parts availability in the USA from a distributor.

 

What I would like to know is what part #'s specifically are having the most common failures or you would like to see stocked. Not sure if I could supply every one of them but most importantly the ones that commonly seem to be the issue.

 

While Airsoft Buddy does an awesome job, I like you don't want to see people keep having to pay $19.00 for a 10.00 part. It's not their fault that international shipping is so expensive.

 

(now for self-fish plug) I will be one of the first retailers to be receiving the black and tan SCAR as well as the MP5 SD's that are slated to be produced and any other rifle for that matter. While the website needs allot more upgrading it works still in it's ugly state.

 

www.airsoftammosupply.com

 

Great to hear, hopefully your prices will be reasonable. The MP5SD is news to me.

Edited by slu
Link to post
Share on other sites

I think aside from those parts spare, I think WE needs to strengthen/redesign them for a permanent fix. I will be damned if I have to change out a part #42 because there is no way to get into that nozzle to remove the floating valve without the specific tools. I would need an entire bolt assembly. The replacement I got from AB for is still made from the same materials and will fail just the same as before. (Thanks AB though, he did this free of charge)

 

Also WE needs to fix their mag valves and mag design. All mine leaks, and from 10*C to 30*C screws loosen and metal plate that holds the gas reservoir expands differently from the magazine creating leaks near the valve and at the valve itself.

 

I do know how well the design is compared with the WA that minimises cooldown, but that is really very disconcerting when leaving the mags for a day means they all leak out, and when refilling it then hisses like a wet cat, all 7 mags.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
Link to post
Share on other sites

I do know how well the design is compared with the WA that minimises cooldown, but that is really very disconcerting when leaving the mags for a day means they all leak out, and when refilling it then hisses like a wet cat, all 7 mags.

..as I said before, all my new mags don't leak, they are 100% leak-free.. the last time I shot the rifle was last saturday,.. since then I left my mags in my backpack..

 

I just checked them --> still ready to fire :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, mine seems to be holding up nicely. Currently in Mk12 mod 1 configuration. I modded the stock grip into a molded SPR style grip made for a lefty, using some liquid nails and some sand mixed together to make a putty (the caulk stuff works better) to mold the right shape, and then painted on wood glue and sand until I had the right texture and smoothness once it hardened.

 

Stock is still LE, will be changing that. Also added a custom mock suppressor made out of PVC and steel, using the plastic flashhider that came with mine. Still need a scope and maybe a swan sleeve, and probably the VLTOR Clubfoot stock, but other than that, very pleased with the externals so far:

 

th_WEM4A1SPR_028.jpg

 

I can put up a tutorial for the grip if anyone wants to save themselves some money and make a nice custom grip.

 

th_WEM4A1SPR_020.jpg

th_WEM4A1SPR_023.jpg

Edited by crimsonfalcon07
Link to post
Share on other sites

Nah I was using the Part 122 when it died. It has fired over 5000 rounds.

 

Strange with the mags, I have the black one that comes with the gun, then the grey ones when the mags first came out, and they all leak. I just bought new ones from AB I will test those.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
Link to post
Share on other sites
Anyone know an easy way to open the nozzle and reach the part 42? I just saw on AB there is a part 42 which is different from the part 42 that failed (and the one I have been resent). Can someone assist me in this?

 

Grip the silver rod with needle nose pliers. Put something between the jaws and the silver rod do not to mark/scar it up.

 

Simply unscrew the brass valve/nozzle assembly from the rod.

 

To disassemble the valve itself, look at where the silver rod threads into the brass. There are slots or indents around the hole.

 

Take the same needle nose pliers, using the tips of the jaws to turn the base - it unthreads right out.

 

Done.

 

The part that you saw is a valve that should reduce power. It seems to be working pretty much the same (although BBs do seem to hit a lot less hard). I'd have to agree that the low power valve will probably never have the same problem with snapping that the high power one has because of its heavier construction.

 

The newer (as in more recent than the first batch) valve assemblies seems to have slightly different inner dimensions, so depending on when yours is from the valve may not fit. If I were you I'd just buy a whole new nozzle and rod assembly just to be on the safe side.

Link to post
Share on other sites
I got the rod out, that was easy.

 

For the rear part of the nozzle, I tried that, it wouldn't unscrew. I have scarred the nozzle as well as the rear part now. Is there a tool I can use to take it apart?

 

I have just replaced the valve this evening.

First i tried the pliers, no joy. I ended up placing two precision screwdrivers in two of the slots, then gripped them with pliers and twisted it off. It was tight on there, but gave way eventually.

 

I will chrono the new valve tomorrow, BTW my assembly was a version one and it seems to work ok.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.