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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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I don't think that we'll ever get tight grouping with a gbb rifle. On semi, my WE M4A1 is quite accurate when using 0.28s. Still, it is not even close to what my KA Troy A3 CQB was able to do in terms of accuracy. Because the gun uses gas for propulsion, it will never have the inner barrel as clean as an AEG will.

 

I finally got the Madbull Noveske RIS. Hopefully I will have some time tonight to mount it on the gun.

 

 

That and the FPS drops on full auto. Even on my externally regulated Escort guns.

When the FPS drops, the hop has more of an effect on the bb's flight. The bb's will start arching upward. Nature of a Gas gun.

 

Semi-auto shots (with a pause between trigger pulls) is straight and level - switch to 'full' and I have a stream off bb's climbing towards the sky after 40 feet.

 

(Horrifying spread and hooking is a wet hop rubber.....not at all helped by that green silicone "microdot" for a hop bucking - this gun NEEDS a wide "speed bump" shaped hop rubber.)

 

 

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That and the FPS drops on full auto. Even on my externally regulated Escort guns.

When the FPS drops, the hop has more of an effect on the bb's flight. The bb's will start arching upward. Nature of a Gas gun.

 

Semi-auto shots (with a pause between trigger pulls) is straight and level - switch to 'full' and I have a stream off bb's climbing towards the sky after 40 feet.

 

(Horrifying spread and hooking is a wet hop rubber.....not at all helped by that green silicone "microdot" for a hop bucking - this gun NEEDS a wide "speed bump" shaped hop rubber.)

 

You must of had some real bad luck with your Escort guns, it took me a while to get the regular settled but now it's more consistent than most AEG's, true not the really well sorted ones, but most out of the box one will be beaten in consistently and hopup.

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Maybe some folks think it is, but I'm afraid others don't and would prefer it taken elsewhere. I agree with them, and I did ask really nicely so please - pretty please with sugar on the top - take them to the new thread so others can use this thread for it's intended purpose ;)

 

Thanks muchly folks.

 

I posted in the new thread... Just for you... Because I love you. :P

 

lol... Seriously though, is anyone offering their modified barrels for sale yet? I saw one guy modded a barrel, but I have no idea what page it was on. I need an outer because I some how got a suppressor stuck on mine at the CQB length. I think it actually seized on the raw aluminum. I know it wasn't cross threaded because it went on smoothly. In any case, when I took it off (with vice grips), it took the threads with it. I'm kind of out of luck for now, unless the parts centers come up soon.

 

 

Edited by devilstar2k2
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That and the FPS drops on full auto. Even on my externally regulated Escort guns.

When the FPS drops, the hop has more of an effect on the bb's flight. The bb's will start arching upward. Nature of a Gas gun.

 

Semi-auto shots (with a pause between trigger pulls) is straight and level - switch to 'full' and I have a stream off bb's climbing towards the sky after 40 feet.

 

(Horrifying spread and hooking is a wet hop rubber.....not at all helped by that green silicone "microdot" for a hop bucking - this gun NEEDS a wide "speed bump" shaped hop rubber.)

Thank you Rottenotto! Your technical observations noted. :)

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You must of had some real bad luck with your Escort guns, it took me a while to get the regular settled but now it's more consistent than most AEG's, true not the really well sorted ones, but most out of the box one will be beaten in consistently and hopup.

 

 

Maybe using HPA, but not with CO2. No way. Pressure drop is a fact of life, even using a good LP reg like a Palmer Rock.

 

 

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30 rounds don't last long on auto anyways.

 

The accuracy from this gun after a little tuning isn't bad at all. However as Rottenotto observed, wet hop rubber causes the BBs to curve. Its because of that rubber sleeve that is supposed to slow down the BB and prevent the BB overshooting and rolling out the barrel, is too tight and gripping parts of the BB while not gripping other parts due to the liquid. Even when its dry, there are still a little inconsistency from this.

 

A large V hop rubber would be best for accuracy, but the rubber sleeve needs to be modified to work without becoming the secondary hop up.

 

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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Like I've said before a VSR style hopup bucking. Gets rid of the stupid little rubber cup and has a wider surface area for the hop. While the ball bearing to engage the hop isn't optimal it'll work. As a compromise a larger ball bearing to increase surface area. It's totally possible I've taken measurements and it wouldn't be much of change from the original chamber design to get it working.

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Yes, the VSR would work, but given the heavy bolt it may push the BBs through the hop rubber. I have a Hicapa that does exactly that BBs gets pushed through the hop rubber, and occured when I installed a heavier recoil spring.

 

The reason why WA doesn't have this issue is because it uses a ramp to angle the BBs before it gets into the chamber. Whereas the WE pushes the BBs from the magazine straight into the breech.

 

The only way is to reshape the rubber sleeve and get really tight on tolerances.

 

However that doesn't affect the hop design, which still needs more work. And because the upper receiver is RS dimensions, there isn't a lot of room for hop bucking, levers and wheels.

 

I did get mine working well, accuracy at 8m is 2cm groupings. But longer range the shots are more inconsistent.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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I can confirm that Madbull Noveske RIS fits on the gun, but the tread on the barrel nut is a tight fit. Unfortunately I am still unable to separate the 2 segments of the outer barrel. It's like they used the tread lock from hell.

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You're sure you're turning it the right direction right? :P

 

would i damage the gun if i dry fired the gun often enough?

 

Yes and no, and it also depends on what you mean.

 

By firing the gun with gas in it but no BBs you are wearing all the working parts, but probably no more than if you were firing BBs. Obviously something's going to break eventually with any kind of use, and dry firing is no exception.

 

You may be causing the float valve to wear out slightly faster, but I honestly doubt it. Basically it's because the valve might close a little harder because there isn't a BB to create a sort of back pressure to keep the valve open longer and have it close a little slower, but it's not going to make any difference that's going to be of any significance IMO.

 

 

If you mean just pulling the trigger with a cocked hammer but no gassed-up mag, then it might cause wear a bit more prematurely. Since the hammer is going to be hitting home a bit harder than it would normally (because the gas release valve would slow it down slightly), it might stress the hammer and the firing pin block that it hits slightly more than normal, but even then we're probably talking hundreds if not thousands of cycles for it to be anything significant. It will be working the parts pretty much as normal no matter what so they will still be wearing pretty much the same as if you fired normally.

 

 

 

Also, finally got the Krytox lube. I've not tried it on anything much yet (popped off a few mags with my WA 1911), but it seems to be pretty good stuff. It seems to be a bit more slick than the normal "over the counter" greases, but I'd like to try it out a bit more before I form an opinion of my own. :) Any body else got any?

Edited by Chris North
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Maybe using HPA, but not with CO2. No way. Pressure drop is a fact of life, even using a good LP reg like a Palmer Rock.

 

Yeah, Point taken I've only ever used HPA, but the way you where posting it made it sound no matter what you did with a external rig you'll have the same cool down issue with gas in mag.

 

Tese WE's are looking good, starting to see some 3rd party support too, it's either this or the Gas in mag AK, I think I'll wait until the CO2 mags are released for both of them and see how they fair with each other.

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Hi guys :)

 

here is the part we need to solve the charging handle issue, a new bolt key that allows the charging handle to grab it and not "bend" while grabbing the bolt, and allows to use a RS CH without modding it :

 

Is there anyone on here who would be up to building it?

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Wet hop may be a problem as there seems to be a reasonable amount of lube in abbey ultra gas. I will be switching to using just propane from now on so hopefully the accuracy will settle in.

 

WETTI, any updates on CO2 mag release dates yet :)

 

My guess would be early April... there're still a few minor kinks that we need to iron out.

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WETTI, You touched on it briefly previously (and I understand if you can't go into much detail) but is this rifle receiving much interest among the military/LE community as a training tool? Does WE genuinely believe their rifle has a role to play in this area and are you actively pursuing this market? Kind regards, Chris

Edited by chris u'5
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