chris u'5 Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 (edited) The Chef aka Inspector Morse. Another crime solved! (non UK members...don't ask!) Edited March 26, 2009 by chris u'5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris North Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Because of the way the system works the o-ring (part #122) would have to leave the brass cylinder. All of the gas that pushes the bolt carrier back against the recoil spring needs to be released. I'm pretty sure it was briefly discussed a long time ago. Â You might be able to get away with having several large holes drilled into the very end of the cylinder, but even then it might not work, and if it did probably not as well. The way it is now is how almost all modern GBBs work, and it honestly is a very good system. Otto's suggestion of polishing the outer lip of the cylinder and Loctiting the screw that holds the nozzle/piston head assembly down is perfectly sufficient to keep things working for a very long time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lughnasadhuk Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 For those of you in HK that do not have camping stores you should be able to find propane in shops that supply plumbers. Propane is used in torches to cut pipes.  Propane is safer to use and transport (at least in the UK) as the presure is the same as green gas at 175psi @ 100 degrees F but propane is kept in regulated bottle types where green is in aerosol cans.  Also, the gas chromatography and mass-spec analysis of green v's propane is identical as can be seen at the bottom of this page; http://www.airsoft-innovations.com/lab1.html  The slight differences in the gas chromatography peaks is due to the added silicone. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 guys.... I got this picture sent to me this evening. I'll leave it to TS1 to announce it (where the hell is the guy when I need him.... ) Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Victory Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Any word on price? Â Thanks WETTI! Â -Vic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Chef Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 (edited) Chris, I hear what you're saying. It had occurred to me that because of the need to vent the blow back gas that the cylinder would need to leave the brass part. Â But that gas should vent pretty quickly, and the force of the recoil spring should be sufficient to push the bolt back even after a short period of venting. So a couple or three holes around the rear end of the brass cylinder 'should' be sufficient. Relative pressures do equalize pretty sharpish if given the chance. Â Failing that, looking at the other end of the problem...... Â why not make the base end of part 38 the same size as the hole it fits in. In effect making part 38 and the new stabilizer piece as a one part unit. Â So the enlarged base of part 38 would alleviate any sideways movement. You could also fit a larger bolt to the rear end to secure it on the bolt carrier. Obviously the bolt part will be dependent on any clearance issues behind it. Â Obviously I understand the manufacturing implications behind this, so it might not be financially viable to do such a thing. Â There is a very big trade off between the best solution and the most cost effective. Â Â EDIT... Â Ooooohhh.... just seen that update WETTI. Â I like the thinking, hopefully the frontal metal lip will help guide the rod back into place saving the seal in the process. Â Playing devils advocate here (It's a habit of mine, I used to build sportscars and you have to see these problems before you build the thing), with this new part. Say the part 38 is allowed to become loose and flop around (which is the current issue). The force of the recoil spring pushing that extra metal lip back against the brass part 112 deforming it in the process. So it may cause further problems (not least an instant Jam). It may not, only time will tell. Any deformation of the relatively soft brass will still be enough to damage the seal. Â The way to alleviate this would be to have the face of this new part more conical (enough to allow sufficient venting, but maybe big enough to keep it within the brass tube), so it guides back into the brass tube rather than trusting it to fate. Â I'd draw a picture if I could use Paintshop.... (if I had a copy of Paintshop...) Edited March 26, 2009 by The Chef Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Any word on price? Thanks WETTI!  -Vic  nothing.... (I was told it's CNC though ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LordElpus Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 guys.... I got this picture sent to me this evening. I'll leave it to TS1 to announce it (where the hell is the guy when I need him.... )Â Â Maybe he's picked up the dirty habit of being asleep at 4am? Do you actually sleep ever WETTI? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redline Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 WETTIl, thanks for the image. That seems to be an improvement. Would that new design affect the brass cylinder, though? No doubt the CNC steel ring will prevent the O-ring from shredding, but will it damage the brass cylinder if its mis-aligned? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 (edited) WETTIl, thanks for the image. That seems to be an improvement. Would that new design affect the brass cylinder, though? No doubt the CNC steel ring will prevent the O-ring from shredding, but will it damage the brass cylinder if its mis-aligned? Â I believe it's aluminum... Â I really do not have very much info. on this...I was presented with the prototype for a brief comment, then this pic later on; that's all I've got at the moment. Â Pls just wait for my friends over at TS One to officially introduce this thing, alright? I'm as eager as you to try one in my personal piece.... Edited March 26, 2009 by WETTI Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Chef Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 hmmm, brushes up on his knowledge of specific metal hardnesses.... Â I think Aluminium is still harder than brass, but not by much, but that would still transfer any damage to the brass part. Â not wanting to be the harbinger of doom here, but doesn't this look like a direct approach to solving the issue of 'the O Ring being shredded' rather than the issue of 'why is the O Ring being shredded'? Â In this case, the cause is the opposite end of the physical problem. Stop the Flop (no viagra jokes here please...) and stop the O Ring shredding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulB Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Hi TS ONE Â i ordered a few parts two weeks ago and have not had confirmation of the order. I have sent a few emails, please advise me when i could be expecting the order to arrive. Â Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Maybe he's picked up the dirty habit of being asleep at 4am? Do you actually sleep ever WETTI? Â alrighty... I'm hitting the sack; talk to you chaps tomorrow! Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
somegirls Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Just a sidenote:  This is the 557 from dragonredairsoft.com  No mirror effect but slight ghosting but it still works and it stands the blowback. Just in case somebody might be interested.   Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 They have a tan 553 on the way too! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Philbucknall Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Okay, Â I'm convinced I'm going to take the plunge and order one from Tactical quartermaster tomorrow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IBICO Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Could anyone else check out if your barrel tilt a tad up? Â I had to shim my barrel to make it perfectly level. Â http://www.gasguns.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=695 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Philbucknall Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Okay, less convinced now? to reiterate Ibicos request is this a common problem? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shriven Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 I would've thought it would have come to light by now, but we shall see. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IBICO Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Alright.. Got some reply on GGI.. Seems if the o-ring is not used there might be tilt on the outer barrel. But I am not sure why. Might be that the barrel and upper don`t fit 100% and that the o-ring help it get aligned. Â A bit strange method to get something straight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Net Ronin Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 Net Ronin, thanks for the pics. You know how its shaped like a cylinder, with the 2 sides shaved off say the have straight walls? Where are the straight edges? Did you install them facing east/west in the bolt carrier or north/south? Yeah this sounds kinda confusing...thought I'd ask anyways. I put shaved off sides against the wall of the bolt carrier. Round sides will be top and at bottom of the bolt carrier. Sorry , I do not understand east/west term. Could you please explain how to figure which side is east/west/north/south if you do not mind? Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redline Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 I put shaved off sides against the wall of the bolt carrier. Round sides will be top and at bottom of the bolt carrier. Sorry , I do not understand east/west term. Could you please explain how to figure which side is east/west/north/south if you do not mind? Â Flat sides agains the walls of the bolt carrier. Gotcha! That's what I meant by east/west. You have the shaved sides in east/west orientation. If you had put the shaved sides facing top/bottom of bolt carrier, I would have called it north/south. I'm gonna have to tray it your way. I was under the impression that the rounded sides follow the side walls of the bolt carrier...except for me, it didn't work, about an inch away from the bottom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 Just a note. Â Talking to all my buddy's with REAL AR15's, they have told me a counterweighted buffer is exactly what you DONT want if more recoil is your desire. Â It not only slows down the firing rate but DECREASES felt recoil. Â Its done to smooth out the firing of short barrel AR15's and to control muzzle rise. Â Needles to say the stock buffer is back in, gun runs like a champ with the stock one. Â Â Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Net Ronin Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 Thanks Redline for explanation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
accuracy Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 well update on my magcatch problem. Â I think i narrowed the problem down to just the mag follower. Â And WETTI was very professional about it, and very helpful. Â Â He said he will ship extra mag follower to me. Great service! Â THanks WETTI! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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