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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

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OK next problem. Just tried to put my valve guide stabiliser on, the internal diameter appears way too small for the two guide rods I have so I am struggling. Will another be the same I wonder? How have others found this fit? How have you gotten round this issue?

 

I am having a very bad day trying to get this done.

Edited by Marky [UE]
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OK next problem. Just tried to put my valve guide stabiliser on, the internal diameter is way too small for the two guide rods I have so I can't use it. Will another be the same I wonder? How have others found this fit? How have you gotten round this issue?

 

I am having a very bad day trying to get this done. It should not be this hard to get components designed for the WE M4 to work together!!!

 

I don't know the English terms for some things I want to explain... But I'll try.

 

If you look at the guide rod, there are 2 little holes.

On my original WE-guide-rod there was some "exess material" (don't know the word), some material sticks out, the holes are not nicely "finished". This is a "PRO" :-) !

 

I used that rough finish on those holes to get some material out of the stabilizer, just by turning and turning and turning... The roughly finsh acts as a "file" or a sand-paper. And after turning for a while (and moving the guide rod up and down while doing so) the passage in the stabiliser was widened enough to fit the rod.

 

I hope this is clear enough.

 

If you want I could explain this in Dutch, that would be easier fore me :-) .

Edited by lukvdh
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Thanks for the feedback. I have just finished doing pretty much what you describe. I had to hammer the spare guide rod casing through the stabiliser to remove some of the internal material. Then I sanded to a polish both the guide rod casing rough edges and the internal faces of the stabiliser. I had to fit and unfit everything a couple of times to amend the polish and fit but have just finished fitting it. Well that was fun!

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Well I finally managed to assemble my CQBR version. Firstly to top off the day one of my two mags has decided to spring a non stop leak from the outlet valve. Secondly as mentioned earlier I still can't get the bird cage to line up in CQBR config. Here are some other observations:

 

1) As previously mentioned one of the fake trigger pins on the lower is missing, I can see that red bond they use but no fake part (god knows where to get one of these from)

2) I have fitted the type 2 anti-rotation pins so I could do with this 'pin' to hook it over, only time will tell if the missing part causes an issue (I suspect the recoil will cause the anti-rotation cover to move without it)

3) I also fitted the LAT bearing set. Unlike an earlier post I found an immediate improvement to the charging action and recoil seems smoother (which is what I expected so that's good)

 

My next step will be to test the new chrome barrel I installed with the stock hop, I decided not to put the spare I got on yet and they are totally different! not sure when I will find time though. Lastly, I really wish the gas mags were better, my gut tells me they are letting the rest of my rifle down. I can't wait to upgrade this to CO2!!!!!!!!

 

Current config:

 

WE M4 CQBR (originally a version 2 with markings from AB)

7075 Aluminium Charging Handle

6.02mm Chrome barrel & new hop-up

Guide Rod Stabiliser

TSC Buffer Tube (without the stupid weight, I just like the blue finish :rolleyes: )

TSC Anti-Rotational Pin Set - Type 2

TSC Bolt Catch Plates

LAT Bearing Set

VLTOR Emod Stock (this copy should put me on until the new RS Magpul stock arrives)

Magpul MIAD Basic Pistol Grip (RS)

Magpul MOE Hand Guard (RS)

Magpul ASAP Sling Mount (RS)

Magpul MS2 Sling

 

My RS Magpul Enhanced Trigger guard will not fit and is sat in a drawer! :(

Edited by Marky [UE]
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It seems the receivers pictured a few pages back intended for the Rangers have a much nicer finish than the receivers received by many of us :huh:

 

Chris, those are the same factory stock anodized lowers. I just pulled them from stock. May be it's my camera... :P

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What do you expect me say... & what CAN I say? WE, like all other manufacturers, is at the mercy of these political decisions. I know one thing for sure: I ain't taking to the streets of Germany to protest about it... :spam:

 

I guess we'll just have to sit tight & cross our fingers, won't we? :(

 

Completely off topic (and not...):

 

German government is going to ban paintball (because of a shooting incident with many dead people in a school).

 

I'm affraid 'airsoft' is next. Because reason they gave is "paintball mimics killing people". I guess airsoft does the same (when talking skermish, collecting replicas (like I do) is not the same, but it will be hard to differenciate in a law I guess).

 

I'm not living in Germany, but I just wanted to share this 'news'. I think Germany is one of the "most airsofted" European countries (although they have strict technical rules in their weapon-law). When they have to shut down airsoft (like they will have to shut down paintball) there is a big market going away for manufacturers.

 

And I wander if this will have (large) impact on production.

 

WETTI any idea yet? WE? "You"?

 

 

 

And to get on topic again: any news on CO2 parts needed yet? Availability? ATA?

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It seems to be a repack from madbull's bbs :P feedbacks are usually goods.

 

"repack from Madbull...!!??" :waggle: Have you try asking Madbull if they make their own BBs.... ;)

 

Anyway, there are only a handful of BB makers in the world & many famous brands of BBs on the market today are in fact made by the same manufacturer. The key here is the 'manufacturing process': Many of todays BB manufacturers will offer their clients (e.g. WE) choices of "the degree of manufacturing tolerances". For example, the number of times/amount of time the BBs are being 'buffed' & grind will determine the actual diameter tolerances of the finished products. A client can also choose the more expensive process of eliminating the internal bubbles during the molding process (which we did for our two top grades)

 

WE's BBs are made by the world's largest & most modern BB manufacturer & WE has chosen the absolute BEST processes for manufacturing of our "SNIPER" & "Ultimate Match" grade BBs, thus giving them tolerances 2nd to none in the world. Of course we have to leave room in our line up for more economical options. All-in-all, our top two grades of BBs should be considered having some of the tightest tolerances & being the most consistent BBs in the world.

 

WETTI

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Mmm...so they weren't picked in a preferential manner then?

They definitely look better than mine and many of the receivers I have seen.

Thanks for the info though.

 

In fact, Chris, no... honest to GOD, they were picked just out of the lot. I didn't even do it myself, one of my staff did that. But pls remember that's the nature of the anodizing process: The finishes will vary from batch to batch. It's not about what's better & what's not... it's just basically the color variations. Same with the RS guns. Some people will prefer a darker finish & some will like a more 'greyish' finish; it's all pretty subjective.

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Suffice to say that oxygen biodegradable also means "can be oxidized" much like how iron turns to rust (ferric oxide). The usual bio-bbs afaik are moisture biodegradable hence why they get deformed when accidentally made wet. How fast these new bbs actually degrade would be entirely dependent on what they're made of. Technically speaking though, even the typical non-bio bbs that are made of plastic can also degrade but through photodegradation (non bio) but takes really long.

 

 

Are you just getting a "click" after pulling the trigger? Your valve knocker (#61) might not be resetting fully during the cycling of the bolt.

yea i hear a click

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Wetti I recently bough a lower receiver from AB and all the fake pins are missing....Top of that, the takedown pin hole is way too tight(nearly 2mm in diameter...) Do you know who is the manufacturer?

 

About the BBs do you have any pricing infos?

 

Question#1 - I think you should check with AB. I have no idea.

 

Question#2 - I only have wholesale pricings, but that is not something I can disclose here. Retail pricings are pretty much up to the individual dealers.

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In fact, Chris, no... honest to GOD, they were picked just out of the lot. I didn't even do it myself, one of my staff did that. But pls remember that's the nature of the anodizing process: The finishes will vary from batch to batch. It's not about what's better & what's not... it's just basically the color variations. Same with the RS guns. Some people will prefer a darker finish & some will like a more 'greyish' finish; it's all pretty subjective.

I accept your point WETTI.

Rather than colour variation it was more the fact that the Ranger receivers appear to be less scratched, damaged and marked than my own and many I have seen.

Now I know you will say this is down to the retailer but the same scratches, damage and marks are seen on rifles purchased from different retailers from all around the Globe.

I'm not trying to get at you WETTI I'm just making my own observation (which in the grand scheme of things means nothing)

Of course how the rifle performs is more important than it looks and I realise you have an awful busy schedule so we can just leave it there mate.

Anyway, thanks for replying.

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I accept your point WETTI.

Rather than colour variation it was more the fact that the Ranger receivers appear to be less scratched, damaged and marked than my own and many I have seen.

Now I know you will say this is down to the retailer but the same scratches, damage and marks are seen on rifles purchased from different retailers from all around the Globe.

I'm not trying to get at you WETTI I'm just making my own observation (which in the grand scheme of things means nothing)

Of course how the rifle performs is more important than it looks and I realise you have an awful busy schedule so we can just leave it there mate.

Anyway, thanks for replying.

 

Looks we got opposite types. Mine was pristine looking. Absolutely no complaints in the looks dept. In fact, due to anodized surface, It looked better than the G&P ones. How it functioned...well, that's another story.

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I read on here a while ago that someone converted an AEG outer barrel to work on these guns, can someone post pics or more info? I have my old G&P outer from my old AEG and I love them, they're very heavy and magnetic so probably made of steel. The sights, flash hider and barrel look amazing on G&P guns, my sights even started to rust!

 

BTW, where can I get a full stock for the WE?

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Of course we have to leave room in our line up for more economical options. All-in-all, our top two grades of BBs should be considered having some of the tightest tolerances & being the most consistent BBs in the world.

 

WETTI

 

Seriously I'm sure many consumers won't mind paying more for highest quality bbs that can possibly be manufactured, especially those who use it for sniping. TBH I wouldn't mind paying more than SGMs if such BBs are available.

 

How about providing us some test data on the bbs you claimed are the world's best? Speaking of which, whatever happened to making videos of co2 full auto?

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Seriously I'm sure many consumers won't mind paying more for highest quality bbs that can possibly be manufactured, especially those who use it for sniping. TBH I wouldn't mind paying more than SGMs if such BBs are available.

 

How about providing us some test data on the bbs you claimed are the world's best? Speaking of which, whatever happened to making videos of co2 full auto?

 

1. To be fair, the BB tests will in fact be done by some of you guys out there! When they are available, I'll be sending out samples for some of you to test them in your personal guns. I'll send out the invite in due course.

 

2. The CO2 full auto vid...?? Isn't it a bit late to ask about that now... :P (Just kidding!)

 

OK! I'll shoot one in the shop tomorrow & post it here for all. BUT that's NOT to be considered the official vid, OK? :bestgun: THE "unofficial" OFFICIAL VID for our CO2 system will be shot on location later this month at Camp Frank D. Merrill featuring the U.S. Army's 5th Ranger Training Battalion's Gunnery Sargent & chief instructors. :usflag: (I think some Fort Benning guys will be there too... :whistling: )

 

I suppose that is called.... "baptism by fire"? :showoff:

Edited by WETTI
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I read on here a while ago that someone converted an AEG outer barrel to work on these guns, can someone post pics or more info? I have my old G&P outer from my old AEG and I love them, they're very heavy and magnetic so probably made of steel. The sights, flash hider and barrel look amazing on G&P guns, my sights even started to rust!

 

BTW, where can I get a full stock for the WE?

 

If you take apart the WE outer barrel and look at it next to the AEG barrel you will notice that the AEG barrel has has about an extra inch and a half of metal that would normally fit into an AEG body, the WE just has two prongs that stick out at the end that lock into the body. To get the AEG barrel to fit simply chop off all the "extra" metal that would normally go into the AEG body. Now the two barrels should look almost identical except for the two missing prongs on the AEG barrel. You will have to make your own prongs, best way probably being to buy two very small screws that are the same diameter as the WE prongs and that would fit nicely into the WE body. The scres don't have to be exactly the same and they don't have to be as long as the WE prongs, they should just be long enough to sit into the WE cut outs andprevent the barrel from spinning around and loosening. Hope that helps. If you stilldon't understand I could probably make a guide with pictures in the near future...

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