somegirls Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Well, since airsoft global is obviously selling them already I think that's kinda too late. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Torque Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Has anyone tried tests mixing duster gas and propane/gg to see what the impact to FPS looks like? I'm interested myself but don't have a duster gas adaptor yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Has anyone heard any news on an upgraded part # 59? I saw someone on this board made a bunch slghtly redesigned ones. That would be me. The one I have in mine is still ok. WETTI said they'll look into it.  Chronograph results... I took the liberty of running your results through some statistics and here's what I got  _______max__min__SD CO2 .30 498 452 15.60290196 CO2 .40 406 363 12.26739626  Prop .30 467 433 8.72278376 Prop .40 432 333 16.00811483  Even without having to do anova tests, I could say one isn't any more consistent than the other. Someone should try the new CO2 setup in really cold weather. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 i need to know something. can someone take a pic of the screw cap in the CO2 mag next to a ruler so i can see the thread size? Â this way i can determine if i can screw my remote kit for my paintball gun directly into the mag and use the magazine as an expansion chamber instead of putting in a CO2 capsule. this should result in better constancy. Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eliminator56 Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Well after running only one mag through the CO2 assembly I must say this solved every problem with FPS consistency and accuracy. My WE is at its pinnacle and is as good as any AEG I've shot. The gun shot 450 fps with .20's on propane with a fluctuation of maybe 5 fps on a couple shots. If you don't have the new CO2 assembly.......get it....it has changed my WE. this is by far the best upgrade you could do for your WE. Â So the CO2 kit from Evike is the high output one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSOJGNILRAD Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 So the CO2 kit from Evike is the high output one? No that actually is the low fps set up. I think I will have to mod it to shoot much lower...like 350fps. The thing is it is consistent. That is all I care about right now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMax1818 Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 k my and my mates M4 were working fine with the standard kit in, but just the general cool down and fps problems with propane. We both got a co2 kit from airsoft buddy and my mate bought 4 co2 mags. After reciveing them i installed the new co2 nozel and the brass Valve Housing you get.  At a game we tryed them out with co2, my first problem is that it likes to now shoot one bb then not shoot one then shoot two and then nothing and two again. Would anyone know why this is happening as im not sure about that one. The second problem that occours with this gun was that the new co2 valve became very tight in the brass Valve Housing so tight that it wouldent move when fired on co2 and i would have to use the forward assist to push it forward and then take the gun apart, it had also moved the big o ring out if its grove it was that tight, to move. A second friend was at the game with another WE and i tryed my bolt which had the real tight nozel in his gun and it sliped in real smooth and worked fine with it in.  The second guns probelms happend halfway through a game, all the mags jamed. The plastic tab that push the bbs up was stuck in the middle in all the mags. Could this be a doggy set of mags at all? It also got a few bs smashed in the brass Valve Housing which block it up, and the o rings on the co2 nozel were starting to rip.  here are some pics. Could this all be casued by faulty brass Valve Housings? any help would be much appreciated thanks   Jamed bb  O-ring starting to rip  jamed mag Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Torque Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 (edited) I have the brand new WE M4 AFC version 3, and William from airsoftbuddy says I need part #42 to downgrade so it will shoot below 400FPS with 0.20g bbs. Is this true? Can anyone confirm it will work? Â I'm just trying to get my rifle downgraded below 400FPS so I can play at my local field. Has anyone been successful at getting their WE M4 below 400FPS w/ 0.20g bbs? If so, what is the method you used? Is the FPS stable and consistent? Â (LOL I must be invisible, 3 posts so far on this thread and not a single response.... sigh. ) Edited June 15, 2009 by Torque Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSOJGNILRAD Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 I have the brand new WE M4 AFC version 3, and William from airsoftbuddy says I need part #42 to downgrade so it will shoot below 400FPS with 0.20g bbs. Is this true? Can anyone confirm it will work? (LOL I must be invisible, 3 posts so far on this thread and not a single response.... sigh. )  Yes the part #42 is what you want. You will not have to mod anything if you buy that 300fps part #42 (floating valve) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 (edited) MadMax1818: Yeah problem is a combination of the new brass tube, part 117 and the steel nozzle, but is also temperature dependent. Â The brass tube, barrel mount and hop system, the part that holds part 117 is narrower on the CO2 kit than the original brass tube. This compresses part 117 in, which then does 2 things: Â 1) the steel nozzle gets stuck into the rubber part 117 and has difficulty pushing in and out of the area 2) the BBs get stuck into part 117 and causes misfires and double feeds (because the friction is too much to fire the BB out of the barrel), which then crushes BBs. Â From the other WE systems, if they came with the CO2 kit as default, they seem to work well out of the box, but if the CO2 kit was fitted afterwards there is a bit of an issue. Â Â During rapid fire, the temperature in both the steel nozzle, rubber and brass tube decreases. However rubber shrinks more per K/*C dropped than brass which shrinks more per K/*C than steel. Â So what happens is that both the brass and rubber shrinks in size, but the steel nozzle doesn't shrink much, and that means the rubber and the brass grips onto the steel nozzle and doesn't let go hence going back to the explanation above. Â I am guessing because this system was designed in HK and Taiwan, the temperature never really drops enough to affect this system. Â This is where plastic nozzles and brass nozzles do have an advantage. Â ----------------- Solution is somewhere in amongst this thread. Edited June 15, 2009 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMax1818 Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 thanks for the info. So buying a new 117 part might fix that and stop it from missing a shot and fireing two. but the brass tube and temp probelm, well there isent realy a fix for that then? :S Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 thanks for the info. So buying a new 117 part might fix that and stop it from missing a shot and fireing two. but the brass tube and temp probelm, well there isent realy a fix for that then? :S Â New 117 won't fix it I don't think. I got a 6mm solid grinding bit onto a dremel and bore'd out the part 117 half way (from the breech end in). That was enough for the brass nozzle, but not enough for the steel. Then I took some rough sandpaper to the steel nozzle and slowly sanded it around until it can move in and out of the nozzle freely with only very little resistance. Â After that, my M4 didn't freeze up from cooldown on rapid fire, but the cycling rate slowed down anyways. Â There are also other mods I did as well to improve cold weather/coold down performance. I carved out bits off the bolt assembly, to lighten the bolt, and lightened the recoil spring. In colder weathers that improved the cycling speed and kick back closer to the WA's recoil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Animal Mother Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 i got my m16 from airsoft buddy(im the mate Aidan is refering too) in 4 days, mine had to be semi'd as auto is not allowed in my country,i went through my club armourer who has a contact in customs which i attribute to the speedy arival...hope you get yours bud   Thank you for your follow-up guys, but it doesn't help me that much because you guys aren't in the US having to deal with US Customs/ATF seizing items. Is there anyone in the UNITED STATES that has ordered from airsoft buddy lately and received their stuff? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 Just got my WE M16A3.  Awesome gun!  Couple of questions.  1./ I don't have the manual for mine, so is there anything I shouldn't do that'd cause it to break?  And  2./ The stock on mine came loose. How do you tighten it?  Cheers!  Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
somegirls Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 No idea but PICS! Â (I guess like any other fixed stock AR rifle) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) Here are some pictures... There's not a lot of light this time in the morning though, so I'll take better ones later. Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â And if anyone knows about the stock, that's be awesome, cheers. Â Ben. Â EDIT:: Also, my g/f's camera isn't very good Sorry about the blur Edited June 16, 2009 by L4byr1nth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Chef Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 Ben... the blur only occurs when the operator is shaking like a virgin about to pop his cherry! Â As for tightening the stock, just look for a screw in the back somewhere. Â Things to do.... Â Always remove the mag before trying to open up the receiver (trust me, you'll do it with it in at least once!) Make sure it's set to SEMI before trying to put the receiver back together. Try not to release the bolt forward whilst the charging handle is extended to the rear. Â That's probably about it really. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvp69 Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 Here are some pictures... There's not a lot of light this time in the morning though, so I'll take better ones later.        And if anyone knows about the stock, that's be awesome, cheers.  Ben.  EDIT:: Also, my g/f's camera isn't very good Sorry about the blur theres a screw on the but plate (upper screw out of the two) nice gun by the way, my m16 stock was a bit rough,it had blemishes all over it? also it came with m4 carbine markings,tho i was made aware of this b4 it was to be prosessed and i didnt want to wait! Its a lot snappier than my we m4 also,this may be due to the longer buffer spring that goes almost the full distance of the stock,unlike the m4.It sits around 450fps on co2 and propane... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) Hi Rob!  Thanks for that! I knew there was something I had to remember about the charging handle  My hands naturally shake, but yes, I was eager to get stuck in lol  rvp69: Thanks for the advice about the stock. How do I get to the screws, though? Do I have to take down the gun? Or literally the screws on the back on the buttplate? If it is, then I'm worried, because those screws are already dead tight. It's a side to side movement of about 2mm, in case that matters...  As for blemishes, mine has them too.  Mine also has M4 markings, but I don't mind. It has a heck of a kick. My shoulder hurts! I'm using winter green gas  It also makes a sort of 'SPROIIIIIIIING!' springy noise on semi - I've heard the real AR does this?  Ben. Edited June 16, 2009 by L4byr1nth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 I've never said this before, so here goes .... Â Please don't quote pictures rvp, it isn't the done thing here, especially when the original pictures are on the same page. Â There, done it!!...carry on chaps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
somegirls Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 lol, what I was about to post. Â It's okay when you quote maybe one picture of a post when that post is several pages back, so people know what you're talking about. Â L4byr1nth, is this your first WE GBB? Thought you already had an M4. Â anyways, yes you hear the buffer spring swinging, at first I thought I kinda sucks since I realized the real AR rifles actually do the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) Nopes, I just was lurking in this thread to get more info and see if I wanted a WA system or a WE system. This is my first WE GBB gun. Â Apart from the movement in the stock () it's awesome! I'm impressed! Â Ben. Edited June 16, 2009 by L4byr1nth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) Hi Rob! Thanks for that! I knew there was something I had to remember about the charging handle  My hands naturally shake, but yes, I was eager to get stuck in lol  rvp69: Thanks for the advice about the stock. How do I get to the screws, though? Do I have to take down the gun? Or literally the screws on the back on the buttplate? If it is, then I'm worried, because those screws are already dead tight. It's a side to side movement of about 2mm, in case that matters...  As for blemishes, mine has them too.  Mine also has M4 markings, but I don't mind. It has a heck of a kick. My shoulder hurts! I'm using winter green gas  It also makes a sort of 'SPROIIIIIIIING!' springy noise on semi - I've heard the real AR does this?  Ben.  the spring noise it from the buffer spring vibrating next to your head. your side to side movement is a shimming problem. figure out how to take the stock off and shim it with something or add an aftermarket 1-pt sling mount for full stock ARs. those screws are dead tight because whoever was putting the package together for you probably tried to get rid of the wobble himself. Edited June 16, 2009 by Horsem4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) Could you point me to a picture or website where I can get that part? Â Hmmmm... Take the stock off, you say... Â Well, it's only attached by the two big screws on the back, correct? I took the receiver apart, and can't see any other screws to tighten. Â Â I get the yummy taste of gas in my mouth while firing it hehehehe. Is this because of the blowback pushing vented gas out of the ejection port? Â Ben. Edited June 16, 2009 by L4byr1nth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) 1 screw attaches to the buffer tube and the other holds in the rear sling mount. Â you can use an AEG one like this: http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/...il?prodID=20693 Â or, add bits of electrical tape the the rear side of that plate and see if that shims it correctly. Edited June 16, 2009 by Horsem4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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