Nazio Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 (edited) Just to make sure i did check my older valves, brass one and steel TSC one. No signs of harm, and both i did use the same way. Edited July 16, 2009 by Nazio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eliminator Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 For the WE M16 users, wich BB wheigt will be the best in order to use this gun as a sniper rifle? In my M4(350fps) I currently use the Bioval 0.27g BBs, and the gun is pretty accurate and fires at a good 60 meters when skirmishing in SEMI mode(had a peack at 70 meters , 10/10 shots ont the guy's "*albatross*"). Would the M16 have better performances(will be set @400fps and will do the SEMI only mod)than my M4? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 Yes. Â I use it with 0.30g Blaster Devil BB's. Â Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
newcomer Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Anyone has Airsoft Buddy William's number? Dammit he screwed up my order... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theprodigy Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 need quick help guys. I currently have the c02 kit with the lower #42fps folding valve installed, steel charging handle, new chrome barrel and HU, and Lat bearings. The gun cycles and blowback is fine. I'm getting some serious bbs rolling right out of the barrel. I've cleaned the barrel many times, changed hU rubbers 3 times, in which all my HU rubbers are practically identical, except for the original one that came with the barrel. I even put in a thin piece of rubber where the ball bearing goes as suggested by a poster somewhere in the thread, that didn't help either im at a lost here? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nazio Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) need quick help guys. I currently have the c02 kit with the lower #42fps folding valve installed, steel charging handle, new chrome barrel and HU, and Lat bearings. The gun cycles and blowback is fine. I'm getting some serious bbs rolling right out of the barrel. I've cleaned the barrel many times, changed hU rubbers 3 times, in which all my HU rubbers are practically identical, except for the original one that came with the barrel. I even put in a thin piece of rubber where the ball bearing goes as suggested by a poster somewhere in the thread, that didn't help either im at a lost here? What about part #117 ? Is it in place ? Didn't You forget to take it out from old propane system ? Edited July 17, 2009 by Nazio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theprodigy Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 What about part #117 ? Is it in place ? Didn't You forget to take it out from old propane system ? yes i did forget. i just put it in right now, i was just jumping on here real quick to say i'm an idiot, but you beat me to it haha. Â I'ts too late too shoot it right now, but i'm sure that's my problem, i mean it would have to be. but thanks for the fast response though. I was looking at airsoftbuddy when it dawned on me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theprodigy Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Anyone has Airsoft Buddy William's number? Dammit he screwed up my order... as of lately he does respond to emails. i've made many purchases through him and he does respond. the only problem i had was when i first originally bought the WE, but everyone was having issues then and i guess he quit his day job and everything got sorted out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tangman Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Hi all,  Just got my TSC Uni Guide Rod from Airsoft123, once again great service. My one has the locking screw for it, the screw head is TINY though and none of the Allen Keys I have at home will fit so will pop down to the hardware store later to see if I can find one.  I'm having a few problems with installing it though, the main problem is I can't seem to get the stock Part 38 out (the entire Valve Guide Rod housing assembly) out.  I've removed as many parts as possible (Part 36, the roller bearing assembly on top of the bolt, the nozzle assembly etc).  Here is where I am upto    I can't seem to find the white block near the rear end of the bolt on the exploded diagram...  Thanks in advance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kimkafwan Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 What's the shiny thing on the bolt? glue? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tangman Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 LOL, well I always assumed it was just grease/lube of some sort but I just checked to see if I could wipe it off and it does indeed look like dried glue/adhesive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marky [UE] Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) What about part #117 ? Is it in place ? Didn't You forget to take it out from old propane system ? Â Update on my semi/auto issues. This post stopped me in my thoughts. I had previously managed to convince myself that the new design CO2 system no longer required part #117, it must have been the bottle of wine that clouded my judgement. I have just reassembled my barrel with part #117 in place and the semi/auto issue seems, at the moment, to have been resolved still not getting many shots out of a mag though so there is at least one problem left to figure out. Â If you push the release valve on a full CO2 mag when not in the gun should the pressure return the release valve after letting only a small amount of gas out? mine don't and I wondered if the valve seals had moved during assembly. I had to rebuild both my original green/propane gas mags due to poorly fitted valves where the seals had moved. Edited July 17, 2009 by Marky [UE] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marky [UE] Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) Hi all, Just got my TSC Uni Guide Rod from Airsoft123, once again great service. My one has the locking screw for it, the screw head is TINY though and none of the Allen Keys I have at home will fit so will pop down to the hardware store later to see if I can find one.  I'm having a few problems with installing it though, the main problem is I can't seem to get the stock Part 38 out (the entire Valve Guide Rod housing assembly) out.  I've removed as many parts as possible (Part 36, the roller bearing assembly on top of the bolt, the nozzle assembly etc).  Here is where I am upto  I can't seem to find the white block near the rear end of the bolt on the exploded diagram...  Thanks in advance  The white block is not on the exploded diagram as it was added to align the nozzle assembly and guide rod after earlier problems. This is commonly called the valve or guide rod stabiliser. It might have been glued to ensure it doesn't move forward during normal use. Part #38 can be a real pig to get out as the stabiliser can have a pretty good grip on it. I normally get round this by first removing bolt #36 and then extending the nozzle and guide rod forward. This allows the two holes through part #38 to be used. I take a small cross head screwdriver and push that through the holes. For the next part it's best to hold the bolt in a workmate bench or similar and then very gently and carefully either twist #38 left to right with pressure in a sort of corkscrew fashion or tap one edge of the screwdriver gently with a hammer to knock #38 out. Please be VERY CAREFUL if you decide to do this I can't take any responsibility for the outcome but it works for me. Also be careful not to lose part #37, this can be placed in the gap at the bottom of the stabiliser when rebuilding and aligned via the hole for bolt #36 using a screwdriver.  Let me know if you have any thoughts or further questions. I really hope this helps or gives you some other ideas. Edited July 17, 2009 by Marky [UE] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tangman Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Thanks Marky . I tried that additionally but didnt spend a lot of time on it, will try it some mroe now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marky [UE] Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) Correction, after further testing my semi/auto issue still exists since I added part #117 Edited July 17, 2009 by Marky [UE] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Torque Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) Received my adjustable guide rod from TSC 2 days ago. It did not have a locking wing nut. Â Emailed airsoft123.com, they are sending me the new wing nut with locking screw. Yay! Will update when I have it assembled and tested. Edited July 17, 2009 by Torque Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSOJGNILRAD Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Received my adjustable guide rod from TSC 2 days ago. It did not have a locking wing nut. Â Emailed airsoft123.com, they are sending me the new wing nut with locking screw. Yay! Will update when I have it assembled and tested. I have to tell you Airsoft123 is doing a stand up job. This whole problem with screws not included in the package that is on TSC not 123. Lou over at Airsoft123 answers every email with in a hour and resolves every problem. Combine this with the free shipping and I wont go anywhere else. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Starting to nail down that auto issue. Behavior: After cocking the bolt, the trigger does nothing when it is in automatic, clicking the selector to semi and then back, without doing anything else, restores automatic, going to tear her down and take a close look at the trigger mech tonight maybe. Apologies if this has already been addressed. I was just browsing this thread and thought I might comment.  I've seen this happen on the G&P and AGM M4 as well and, looking at the mechanism, I think of it simply as a design fault rather than a malfunction.  What happens is this...  If you set the fire-selector to auto before operating the charging handle the hammer latches against the hammer lock rather than the semi-auto sear. Once the hammer is held by the hammer lock the trigger is disabled and the only thing that can fire the gun is the action of the bolt carrier moving forward again, as you'd get if you were firing in auto.  If the selector is in semi when you operate the charging handle the hammer will be held by the semi-auto sear. If you then switch to auto the hammer lock will attempt to move forward but won't actually be able to hold the hammer until after the first shot. Which'll allow the gun to fire in auto as it should.  You can verify this with a simple test. With the receiver open, set the selector to auto then slowly cock the hammer. You'll hear/feel the semi-auto sear latch then, if you keep pushing, a tiny bit later the hammer lock will latch. The trigger is now useless. As I said, the only way the hammer can be released from this state is for the bolt carrier to hit the hammer lock to release it. Now flip the selector to semi. You should see the hammer jump forward a fraction as the hammer lock releases the hammer and the semi-auto sear catches the hammer instead.  It's really not a malfunction (on the G&P and AGM at least) at all. It's just a result of the way the mechanism is designed.    As I say, apologies if I'm teaching anybody to suck eggs.  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snorkelman Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) I've seen this happen on the G&P and AGM M4 as well and, looking at the mechanism, I think of it simply as a design fault rather than a malfunction.  Not a design fault, thats how the firecontrol group is meant to work on the M16/WA/AGM/WOC. The only times the trigger doesnt end up functional when hammer is cocked with selector in auto is when the BCG hasnt been allowed to return to battery and seat fully home. Either cause:  a- the receiver is open and you're cocking hammer by hand (in which case you need to trip the hammer lock by hand to make up for lack of a BCG whacking against it)  or  b - cos the BCG has been returned to battery without allowing full force of the recoil spring to whack it home under its own steam (ie the charging handle is being used as a bit of a brake on rapid return of the BCG against pressure of the recoil spring) In that case you end up with a BCG that can look like its fully home, but in reality is still a hairs breadth out, and by design its that last hairs breadth of travel where the bolt carrier trips the hammer lock. If you're returning the BCG like that then a quick press of the forward assit will get it fully seated and the hammer lock tripped.  Really depends how close to that mech the WA adheres to - if it does match then best way of testing trigger function in that scenario is to lock the BCG to the rear with the bolt catch and then trip the catch to ensure BCG is going home with full force, or use the F/A to ensure the BCG is fully seated after easing it home if you prefer that way of returning it. Edited July 17, 2009 by snorkelman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TDS Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) b - cos the BCG has been returned to battery without allowing full force of the recoil spring to whack it home under its own steam (ie the charging handle is being used as a bit of a brake on rapid return of the BCG against pressure of the recoil spring) In that case you end up with a BCG that can look like its fully home, but in reality is still a hairs breadth out, and by design its that last hairs breadth of travel where the bolt carrier trips the hammer lock. If you're returning the BCG like that then a quick press of the forward assit will get it fully seated and the hammer lock tripped. Â Correct, he just more fully explained the conditions in which this problem occurred. Â It is also reproducible if you gently let the bolt return because the last 1/8th" or so has high resistance that has to be overcome by momentum of the bolt, but when the bolt is fully forward, it is holding that sear forward which would enable the trigger, the only way this would not happen would be excessive wear, a broken sear, or in my case a slightly unseated bolt, or causing it on purpose. Â I'm confused as to what causes the burst fire for some users while in semi, the bolt either not being fully cocked (impossible?!) or the sear that holds it back being worn, or the springs associated not being strong enough are my only guesses Edited July 17, 2009 by TDS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Not a design fault, thats how the firecontrol group is meant to work on the M16/WA/AGM/WOC. The only times the trigger doesnt end up functional when hammer is cocked with selector in auto is when the BCG hasnt been allowed to return to battery and seat fully home. When the way something's built causes it to malfunction, I call that a design fault. Â TBH, I was trying to edit my post but the forums wouldn't allow me. I wanted to add that a short pull on the charging handle or, as you say, the bolt carrier not returning fully home, would be what causes this. Â I just wanted to point out that this isn't a random "huh? My trigger does nothing!" moment. There IS a reason for it which can be reproduced at will. Â Like I said, if this ISN'T what's causing it or other people had already worked this out then feel free to ignore me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Out of interest does G&P/WA ambi-mag catch and ambi-selector work with the WE M4? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nazio Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) yes i did forget. i just put it in right now, i was just jumping on here real quick to say i'm an idiot, but you beat me to it haha. Â Update on my semi/auto issues. This post stopped me in my thoughts. I had previously managed to convince myself that the new design CO2 system no longer required part #117, it must have been the bottle of wine that clouded my judgement. I have just reassembled my barrel with part #117 in place and the semi/auto issue seems, at the moment, to have been resolved still not getting many shots out of a mag though so there is at least one problem left to figure out. Â I am glad that you guys have sorted the problems. @Marky[uE] - First video on auto which WETTI did show here - one capsule one mag. Edited July 17, 2009 by Nazio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marky [UE] Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) I am glad that you guys have sorted the problems. @Marky[uE] - First video on auto which WETTI did show here - one capsule one mag. Â As per my later update I have NOT managed to remove the semi/auto burst issue but it's certainly reduced in frequency. Â I also remember the earlier CO2 full auto video WETTI did where the bulb appeared to manage a single mag. I should be so lucky, I am not even getting a full mag usig the semi/burst mode I currently have I do think that my two issues could still be related somehow. I just have keep going until I figure everything out and remember to stop whenever I feel like throwing something out of the window Edited July 17, 2009 by Marky [UE] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nazio Posted July 17, 2009 Report Share Posted July 17, 2009 Not sure if i am thinking in proper direction but, something is causing that whole bolt carrier unit with valve cycles back, load second bb while mag valve is open. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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