Eliminator Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 From what I know the TSC unidirectional piston works pretty well Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eliminator56 Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 If anyone has a stabilizer they are willing to sell and ship to me that would be great! PM me  Thank you! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 I'm getting a weird performance dip about halfway through a C02 mag. Like it shoots nice and snappy for a few rounds on semi, then starts shooting soft, then snappy again. It's not cooldown since shooting a burst or two will actually improve performance. Â Also, I picked up some Crossman C02 cartridges and they are significantly fatter than the generic ones I got from Evike. Some mags fit them OK, but the ones I had to dremel before need to be bored out even more. Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Philbucknall Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 From what I know the TSC unidirectional piston works pretty well Got mine today and from what I can tell it is a bag of poo! it doesn't lock and the action of the rod in the piston is very rough! IMHO my pieces of an old AEG barrel work better! Â Of course I could be wrong as it doesn't come with any fitting instructions so there is a chance i fitted it wrong but I like to think i have at least average intelligence so could work it out. Â overall score 3/10 save your money. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 Otto, I'm having an issue with the CO2 mag I just got from AB. One of the seals in the valve is leaking. Not sure how or why it started to leak as I probably put 20 or so 12g's through it before it developed. Not to mention I am getting horrific efficiency out of the CO2 mag and conversion... I'm talking just enough gas for 30 rounds, maybe. People have been claiming 60+ rounds on one 12g, but I'm not seeing it.  Cool down is far, far worse than with the propane mags as well.  Thanks Boost You just saved me money.  My setup has been the propane mags, BRASS nozzle head, and steel floating valve. new hopup & inner barrel.  The gun shoots laser beam straight to ungodly distances.  Its just the damn mags.......leak just awful.  They need to be CONSTANTLY used to keep from leaking. If they sit, they are done.  It takes a few days of refilling and venting to recondition them. And still, they pizz just a bit.  I didnt want to redo my gun for CO2.......now there is no way I would bother.  If somebody would come out with a better mag, I would be all set.        Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 If anyone has a stabilizer they are willing to sell and ship to me that would be great! PM me Thank you!   The white stabilizer?  You SOOO dont need that.  Just center the nozzle head and blue locktite the end bolt. (directions at wiki post)  The stabilizer is another case of "good idea/poor execution".  stabilizer review and pics       Quote Link to post Share on other sites
accuracy Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 Exactly like my mag. Â If I don't use it for a few days. The next time i fill try to fill it, my entire room will smell of propane. So I end up having to take it apart to regrease all the time. Â Does anyone know where I could find the shorter 262mm chromed barrel w/ new hopup for sale? AB appears to be out. Â Â Thanks Boost You just saved me money. Â My setup has been the propane mags, BRASS nozzle head, and steel floating valve. new hopup & inner barrel. Â The gun shoots laser beam straight to ungodly distances. Â Its just the damn mags.......leak just awful. Â They need to be CONSTANTLY used to keep from leaking. If they sit, they are done. Â It takes a few days of refilling and venting to recondition them. And still, they pizz just a bit. Â I didnt want to redo my gun for CO2.......now there is no way I would bother. Â If somebody would come out with a better mag, I would be all set. Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JM360 Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 Thanks Boost You just saved me money.  My setup has been the propane mags, BRASS nozzle head, and steel floating valve. new hopup & inner barrel.  The gun shoots laser beam straight to ungodly distances.  Its just the damn mags.......leak just awful.  They need to be CONSTANTLY used to keep from leaking. If they sit, they are done.  It takes a few days of refilling and venting to recondition them. And still, they pizz just a bit.  I didnt want to redo my gun for CO2.......now there is no way I would bother.  If somebody would come out with a better mag, I would be all set.  Otto, What fps are you running your WE at and what weight of BB are you using? .. I have the ff in my WE - New hopup and 262mm barrel - CO2 Assembly - spacer to lower the fps  right now the rifle shoots ok but i wouldnt really say near *dr. evil hand gesture* "LAZER" performance. Every so often a shot would suddenly swerve to the left or right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 JM I have the gun at 480 all the time. I dont skirmish it, so no need for FPS reduction. Â I use KSC .30 perfect bb's.....sooooo consistent with the revised hop rubber. Every shot. Â The biggest problem I had briefly, was what others complaining about.......it shoots nice and snappy for a few rounds on semi, then starts shooting soft, then snappy again. Â It was simply the steeel nozzle causing it......three guns. We switched back to brass nozzles with the SMALL window ports, and all the guns fired like champs again. Â Im convinced that the root of the power inconsistency is the port size on the steel nozzles. Original gas nozzles or the Co2 nozzle. Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 (edited) If it helps, silicon sealant (black RTV silicon sealant for making engine gaskets, $2 a tube) really plugged up my leaks like forever and to my various gas guns as well. I know WETTI suggests against it, but I haven't heard of anything bad happening (ie exploding) to other peoples mags treated the same way here provided that they've already sorted out the old-mag-new-mag bit. Â edit: $3 a tube since the one I referred to is only available locally. This one's made by Loctite. Clean all surfaces free from oil first, and use alcohol/acetone if necessary. Let cure fully for 24h before filling up with gas. Edited July 28, 2009 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pantelis Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 Otto, I'm having an issue with the CO2 mag I just got from AB. One of the seals in the valve is leaking. Not sure how or why it started to leak as I probably put 20 or so 12g's through it before it developed. Not to mention I am getting horrific efficiency out of the CO2 mag and conversion... I'm talking just enough gas for 30 rounds, maybe. People have been claiming 60+ rounds on one 12g, but I'm not seeing it.  Cool down is far, far worse than with the propane mags as well. I purchased 2 CO2 magazines from AB and one of them was leaking from day one. I imidiately mailed AB about thatand they replied that they will ask WE about it. BTW for 2xCO2 magazines i paid 44$ shipping for Greece. Now, one month later i asked them if they found a solution, which they didn't and finally if at least I buy 3 more to make a discount to cover the faulty (from day 1) magazine. Well...the discount for buying 3 more magazines is...3$ each plus 55$ shipping costs... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TDS Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 Im convinced that the root of the power inconsistency is the port size on the steel nozzles. Original gas nozzles or the Co2 nozzle. Â Do you mean the original gas nozzles or c02 one's dont have the problem? sorry just bad wording and have a c02 nozzle in the mail. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Philbucknall Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 I find the original brass nozzle on my M4 performs considerably better than my friends steel nozzle. In fact he has now installed a brass nozzle too! can't comment on the CO2 version as i don't have one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pantelis Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 I accidentaly destroyd my brass nozzle months ago when i tried to unscrew it from the glued rod. Now nobody seems to have them in stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 My co2 nossle doesn't cause irratic shots. Preety consistant to me. Don't have a chrono tho. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 Do you mean the original gas nozzles or c02 one's dont have the problem? sorry just bad wording and have a c02 nozzle in the mail. Â Â Correct. The original brass nozzles with small window ports are perfectly consistent. Never any fluctuation in power. Never any "pfft" shots where the bb only goes 40 feet into the ground. Â The steel nozzles (gas use only) that came out with the larger window ports are a problem. In three guns, they immediately started causing the erratic power problem described above when installed. Â When they were removed and the brass nozzles refitted, the problem immediately went away. We tried the steel nozzles again for the Hell of it, refitting them back in, and the problem was back. There is NO DOUBT it is the nozzle heads - and more specifically, the port size (the only significant difference between brass and steel nozzle heads). Â Now,...the Co2 nozzles are reported to have the same problem as the steel gas nozzles. Im reading it/hearing it over and over again on the forums and at the fields. Â They too have the enormous windows (gas ports)....the thinking is that the enormous windows occasionaly close the floating valve too quickly depending on how the nozzle is rotated in the gun. (nozzle is always rotating every shot) Â At that moment when it seals too quickly, not enough of the gas jet gets into the chamber to propel the bb,......and you get a weak shot. Â This problem seems to have zero to do with the 'cooldown of steel' as some had thought. Its the same as brass. In fact, after tinkering, brass seems more reactive to cold then steel. Â The only thing the steel nozzles are good for are the steel floating valves inside - the brass valves would all break in a matter of time. Â Â Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andehpandeh Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 Now a second mag is leaking. Its not long before I just glue the whole seal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cephas Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 Diitto on the sealing of mags. I have sealed all my mags with Blue RTV gasket sealer that I found at an auto store. I have 14 mags not one of them leak. Also making sure that I leave good charge of gas in each of them. When sealing make sure to apply to the top and bottom of the rectangular gasket because thats where the leaks will happen. The when reassembling don't tighten too much. let it set for 24 hours and them come back and tightend some more. This will ensure a good seal. The fill a gas to keep it tight. Â In regards to the power adjustment knob by airsoft123. Its does work but not to my satisfaction. The locking nut is so small good luck on finding a allen wrench to adjust it, TSC should have included this tool. I had to modify mine so I could use a precision flat head to unscrew. When I assembled it all together. I found (1) there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of adjustment on the nut, but I will conduct a test this afternoon with a chrono to confirm. (2) You can't adjust the knob without taking off the nozzle due to the locking nut. (3) If your not careful you could adjust the knob too far forward and have very little no or no material for the locking nut to grab on to. (4) The locking nut is way too small. I would have made the adjustment knob 3 pronged instead of the 6 prong design they have. Thhis would allow for a larger allen wrench. This is all based my initial impressions and assembling it. Actual fps results and consistency will be done this afternoon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Philbucknall Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 In regards to the power adjustment knob by airsoft123. Its does work but not to my satisfaction. The locking nut is so small good luck on finding a allen wrench to adjust it, TSC should have included this tool. I had to modify mine so I could use a precision flat head to unscrew. When I assembled it all together. I found (1) there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of adjustment on the nut, but I will conduct a test this afternoon with a chrono to confirm. (2) You can't adjust the knob without taking off the nozzle due to the locking nut. (3) If your not careful you could adjust the knob too far forward and have very little no or no material for the locking nut to grab on to. (4) The locking nut is way too small. I would have made the adjustment knob 3 pronged instead of the 6 prong design they have. Thhis would allow for a larger allen wrench. This is all based my initial impressions and assembling it. Actual fps results and consistency will be done this afternoon. Â I agree - I guess I am just really jaded alreay with TS ONE as the only things I have from them that make a difference is the bolt stop mag catches! this really feels like a waste of $43 and I really wanted it to work too! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMax1818 Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 Hmm mine came with a little allen key, lucky me  Otto, I too am getting the few week shots problem, after how you put it, it make sense. I couldn't realy work out why it was doing it, but why only on some? my Friends one works fine and i installed the co2 kit in it like mine.  Also would the rotation of the nozzle be a part of this two as the TS One rod i have doesn't allow the shaft to turn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AKRay Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 Correct. The original brass nozzles with small window ports are perfectly consistent. Never any fluctuation in power. Never any "pfft" shots where the bb only goes 40 feet into the ground. Â Â Am I right in thinking that this thing is the best choice for shot-to-shot consistancy: WE Valve Assembly? Basically swapping the Brass outer for the Steel outer I already have? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Philbucknall Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 yep - in a word! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lughnasadhuk Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 (edited) Going to try sealing my mags as some leak - is it this stuf you use (UK equivalent) http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...yId_165691#dtab ?? Â Â Also, Otto, did you have to do anything to your v2 hop rubber to stop it from over hoping? I bought the barrel and rubbers a couple of months back but have not yet fitted them as most people I know who did have overhop problems. Â Finally, does anyone know any stores that are stocking the WE heavy grade BBs, ideally a UK retailer? Edited July 28, 2009 by Lughnasadhuk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eliminator Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 Wetti, there are Scar users on the French forum complaining that theyr part#64 broke while using the with Ultra air(inferior than the Green Gas!) There is the link to the related broke: http://www.france-airsoft.fr/forum/index.p...p;#entry1640560 The user posted a picture Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cephas Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Well I had the chance to test TSC's undirectional nozzle this afternoon. I used a steel nozzle and steel floating valve. The lowest rage I got was about 200 fps. The highest I got was about 480 fps. It turns out that about a quarter turn is roughly equivalent to 25 fps. I'd say you have about 3 revolutions max for adjustment. So it does work in terms of adjustment pretty well too. Â In terms of consistency I was getting -/+ 10 fps, pretty good. But before you all decide to get one there is one issue and it's a big one. The problem lies in the smallest part of the assembly the locking nut. For about 10 shots it will be fine, then you'll notice huge variances. Take out your bolt carrier and you'll find that the locking nut has come loose and the knob is spinning freely. You can try to make it tighter but for a part so small it will strip. What I have done is loctitie it at 360 fps, the knob and locking nut. If I want to adjust it higher or lower I will apply some heat and re loctite it. Adjustable yes, practical no way. Â If anyone else decides to manufacture an adjustable valve system for the WE then I suggesting that would some sort of ratchet system. So when you are adjusting it you feeling a clicking thus allowing it to lock in place without this locking nut approach. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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