MODDAN Posted August 1, 2009 Report Share Posted August 1, 2009 Well the body and all the anodized stuff has no rust just the little bits that's quite important you see? Anyways, there's something more important. I today tried to lower the FPS of my M4 by attempting to put a 7mm bushing in. But i have heated the nozzle countless times and it just doesn't come off. The worst news is that i have scratched the rod so badly that the action isn't really smooth. But firing it is fine. It's just my perfectionist mind affecting me. Can i get a replacement anyhow? And how are you meant to properly take apart the nozzle assembly?? I just got my WE M16A3 a few days ago, and my nozzle already broke (be it though due to the fact that I rammed my magazine into the gun a bit more violently than recommended), but I just couldn't unscrew the part connected to the rod. I ended up removing it piece by piece with the aid of a cutting plier. I've ordered a spare, so I will be forced to use some pretty hefty loctite when it arrives. Also, on another note: The lower on my M16 was engraved wrong. It says "M4A1 Carbine" even though I purchased an M16. I don't know if this is standard or just a mix-up from assembly. But I just can't take my mind off it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMax1818 Posted August 1, 2009 Report Share Posted August 1, 2009 if i rember that is normal. they just use the m4 for the m16 gun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted August 1, 2009 Report Share Posted August 1, 2009 (edited) Hey Alston251 And anybody else attempting to take off/unthread the nozzle. Slide the plastic tube/spacer down the rod - AWAY from the nozzle. With your leatherman pliers or whatever tool you like - You grip RIGHT WHERE THE SPACER WAS! You can scar the living *chaffinch* out of it - it wont matter. The tube slides back in place over the scarred area - that part of the rod cant go into the piston head. Its forbidden by this spacer. So no rough or gritty operation. Edited August 1, 2009 by rottenotto Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 Thank you so much. I really should have thought of that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theprodigy Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 what brand .28 bbs are you guys using... i only have 20s and there shooting horrible. im lookin at the madbull 28s but hard to find in stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Philbucknall Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 i have been using blaster 0.3g BB's with good results or excel 0.25g BB's also work okay. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
somegirls Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 FYI airsoftbuddy has the lower recievers with colt markings (back) in stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 what brand .28 bbs are you guys using... i only have 20s and there shooting horrible. im lookin at the madbull 28s but hard to find in stock. .30 at least......or heavier. .20 isnt even close to an option. I use KSC perfect .30g and swear it is the BEST surface when used wih the new gen2 "two lip" hop rubber. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 I have tried again today to get off the nozzle. But i have heated until the whole thing is pretty hot it's still not coming off!!! I am thinking of getting a torch lighter to see if it works. Or a better set of pliers. Leathermen maybe? Any help would be much appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kimkafwan Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 How did you try to remove the nozzle? with your hand? use gently some kind of rod inside the nozzle. Next clean the thread and apply thread lock before to reinstal the nozzle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
newcomer Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 Suggest you use it till a comes off by itself. The vibration from the blowback will eventually break the bond in the thread. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 well i shoved some tweezers into that hole Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 (edited) well i shoved some tweezers into that hole Too flexy. You need a GOOD set of needle nose pliers with teeth. This is to hold the rod not turn it (in the place I described, under the tube/spacer) Heat the brass (or steel) nozzle - you dont need a ton of heat. And you dont want to melt the O-rings. Slip a thin allen key through the port windows of the brass (or steel) nozzle head to create a "t handle" of sorts....and unscrew the nozzle. Comes right off. PS... If there is the slightest bit of flex in any of your tools - needle nose grips/pliers - or the tool you insert across the ports of teh nozzle - all of your torque will be lost in the flex and it wont come off. If your tools are sturdy and tempered (like a quality allen key) there will be no flex and the nozzle will unthread with almost no effort. Edited August 3, 2009 by rottenotto Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 .30 at least......or heavier. .20 isnt even close to an option. I use KSC perfect .30g and swear it is the BEST surface when used wih the new gen2 "two lip" hop rubber. For whatever reason I haven't noticed any overhop with any BB weight. I got my best groups at 100 feet with Bioval BBBMax .27s by a wide margin when tested against several other brands in the .25-.30 range. Can't wait to try some heavier stuff. I have the short chrome barrel installed; what kind of accuracy and FPS boost can I expect from the standard length barrel? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Torque Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 (edited) For whatever reason I haven't noticed any overhop with any BB weight. Same here, I was wondering about that. I don't get any overhop whether I use .20's, .23's, or .25's. Actually I don't get much hop up variation at all no matter how much I adjust the hop up unit. And I have a version 3 WE M4. Gonna try some .30's though just to see if I can get more consistent groupings. Edited August 3, 2009 by Torque Quote Link to post Share on other sites
accuracy Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 i've been waiting for AB's short length v2 barrel but it's been out of stock for so long and he doesnt' know when. I'm using .28's and i'm overhopping with v1 barrel. it sucks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikererie Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 (edited) thanks to zeaken for help finding parts Edited August 4, 2009 by mikererie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 (edited) Got some news here! Apparently there's a new hop up rubber created by WE and it is softer. Feels like TM type bucking.(apparently) Will get one if i can get the stuck screw off my rail. Apparently you can use lighter BBs now. New on left old on right Pic: Update: Apparently 0.25 works nicely with it. Edited August 4, 2009 by alston251 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nazio Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 (edited) In regards to the 'rust' unfortunately this seems to be fairly common. A problem caused by WE and their 'amazing' anodizing process Cheers mate. I did plan to buy anodized receivers and move all the stuff. But for now i'll stay with painted v.1 Just got TSC guide rod. Anybody can suggest the tool to unscrew that little locking nut ? Dont think allan key will fit, and i am not a dentist (dont have such things at home). @alston Apparently i am a sceptic for apparently upcoming apparent amazing solutions. @Rottenotto If i swap from CO2 nozzle to brass, do You suggest all fire bursts, double shots and other stuff disappear ? Edited August 4, 2009 by Nazio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 Alston251 They finally listened to all of us on the boards...DITCH THAT HORRIBLE GREEN SILICONE MATERIAL FOR THE HOP MATERIAL! Thats good news - now we have two durometer hop rubbers (Like Prometheus for AEG's). It was good intentions (using the green high durometer material) since the guns were designed to shoot at almost 500fps. The problem is, most people tuned the guns down to skirmish levels - and at the lower fps, the guns were badly overhopped. Made worse by trying to use bb's lighter than a .30g. Nazio Im not positive I understand your post/question? If you are asking about correcting the erratic power delivery, then YES. In the case of my gun - and 2 others belonging to friends - the brass nozzle completely eliminated the erratic power. Every pull of the trigger gave the same exact power. never varies. Ever. The steel nozzles were problems in all of the guns. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nazio Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 (edited) OK Otto. Thank You for Your response, gonna try brass nozzle with CO2 housing, see how it behaves. Issues with my v.1, are inconsistent power, double burst shots on semi - auto. I dont remember how it work with brass nozzle, as it was few months ago, and straight after one game i did change it to steel nozzle. Edited August 4, 2009 by Nazio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 OK Otto. Thank You for Your response, gonna try brass nozzle with CO2 housing, see how it behaves. Issues with my v.1, are inconsistent power, double burst shots on semi - auto. I dont remember how it work with brass nozzle, as it was few months ago, and straight after one game i did change it to steel nozzle. Cant used the old brass nozzles with the Co2 setup, unfortunately. Different shape and just wont work. Must use the old 'non Co2 setup' (gas only). Maybe if WE is listening again, they will make a new Co2 nozzle out of steel with smaller windows/ports like the old brass nozzle heads. There is no question there is some issue with the WIDE OPEN PORTS on the steel nozzles, gas and Co2. It needs some revision. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marky [UE] Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 (edited) Issues with my v.1, are inconsistent power, double burst shots on semi - auto Atfer trying long and hard to solve my post CO2 upgrade issues I still have exactly the same problems Nazio. To be honest I have given up trying to solve it right now. I was hoping a solution would appear in the community or a fix of some sort would come from WE. There really does seem to be a fundamental issue somewhere, but I certainly can't locate it! Cant used the old brass nozzles with the Co2 setup, unfortunately. Different shape and just wont work. Must use the old 'non Co2 setup' (gas only). Maybe if WE is listening again, they will make a new Co2 nozzle out of steel with smaller windows/ports like the old brass nozzle heads. There is no question there is some issue with the WIDE OPEN PORTS on the steel nozzles, gas and Co2. It needs some revision. Since my CO2 upgrade I have rebuilt my rifle so many times I lost count and I simply can't find any component at fault. Nothing is loose or misaligned. All the mechanical parts appear to operate correctly, pins and springs secure. If I compare the config to my pre-upgrade state it's all good. The issues I have only appeared after the CO2 upgrade and I am unable to solve them. I have noted your points a couple of times Otto and I think there must be something worth looking into here. Can you provide any feedback on the issues some of us upgrading to CO2 are experiencing WE? My major issues are: Inconsistent FPS 28 shots per CO2 bulb With semi selected I mostly get two or three shot bursts I haven't even tried to hop or scope this in since I bought it (Dec 2008), there is simply no point until all issues are ironed out. I intended to use my M4 for tactical carbine training but this is just a pipe dream at the moment, my patience is wearing very thin. Edited August 5, 2009 by Marky [UE] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
emp3ror86 Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 Hello guys, I'm new to the GBB world and I've just printed this topic to read it. One question though before I'd start. Is all WA aftermarket parts compatible with WE guns? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1st Commando Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 No ! Generally NONE of the parts designed for the WA are compatible with the WE as it is a totally different system . Obviously some cosmetic parts will be though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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