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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

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@ Nazio: you can get a remplacement outer casing for your mag:

 

http://www.tacticalquartermaster.co.uk/cat...6925981e00b4382

 

i had this problem, look at the upper side of the square hole on the side of the mag, it's worn because the outer casing is not made of steel, it's too soft. I used a flat screwdriver inserted in that hole to spread a little bit the upper side and it worked fine.

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what fps are you trying to lower it too? theres a lower fps part#42 which has 2 small holes rather than being completely open

 

Thanks prodigy, I literally don't have a penny to spend on anything at the moment, but have plenty of bits and bobs to try and mod it.

 

JM360, I feel the problem with your method is that the piece of plastic, if it came loose, which it has a very good chance of doing with all of the vibrations the gun undergoes, it can fall out of the valve. The 7mm bushing has the advantage of not beingable to fall out of the valve and isn't attached to anything.

Edited by hungry110
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Thanks prodigy, I literally don't have a penny to spend on anything at the moment, but have plenty of bits and bobs to try and mod it.

 

JM360, I feel the problem with your method is that the piece of plastic, if it came loose, which it has a very good chance of doing with all of the vibrations the gun undergoes, it can fall out of the valve. The 7mm bushing has the advantage of not beingable to fall out of the valve and isn't attached to anything.

 

Tactical Quartermaster were selling them for about £6

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@ Nazio: you can get a remplacement outer casing for your mag:

 

http://www.tacticalquartermaster.co.uk/cat...6925981e00b4382

 

i had this problem, look at the upper side of the square hole on the side of the mag, it's worn because the outer casing is not made of steel, it's too soft. I used a flat screwdriver inserted in that hole to spread a little bit the upper side and it worked fine.

Thank You mate. Just replaced some casings from my inop magz and it seem to do the trick.

WETTI dont You think about use of steel for magazines casings ?

 

Guys do You know if this http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/magpul-stock-pi...sition-pts.html will fit WE ? I have damaged butt stock and that long ping which locks whole butt stock on stock pipe. I've tried to straighten it but unsuccesfully. So i've got an idea to buy Magpul butt stock and stock pipe. Just need to be sure it'll work.

Edited by Nazio
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^NAZIO

 

Have a look at the wiki page under trouble shooting/lower receiver.

 

There is a post for "mags falling out from recoil" - I just updated the verbage for you.

 

Trouble shooting;Lower receiver;Mags falling out of magwell

 

 

The trouble shooting section covers most issues. (90%)

Edited by rottenotto
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JM360, I feel the problem with your method is that the piece of plastic, if it came loose, which it has a very good chance of doing with all of the vibrations the gun undergoes, it can fall out of the valve. The 7mm bushing has the advantage of not beingable to fall out of the valve and isn't attached to anything.

 

Actually the initial idea is to make it in brass with threads inside. I initially made the plastic part for trial and error in determining the height when i make it in brass. The plastic i used is pretty tough and not as soft as it looks. Been firing rounds and rounds through it and so far its there pretty tight. I think the difference is that as long as you thread lock the whole nozzle assembly to part 39, the spacer will not fall off because part 42 is constantly pushing it in place every time you fire.

 

Using a 7mm bushing could be a good option but I think you should file down the wide area of the bushing to prevent obstruction in the airflow going to the blowback. Also, another problem will be placing a thread inside. Most people do not have hand taps so if you do have one, then the bushing might be a good option.

 

EDIT:

umm are you going to use the bushing by attaching it to the back of part 42? or as a platform on part 39? ..

Edited by JM360
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I have put a Magpul PTS CTR stock on my WE M4 and it is surprisingly really tight. So tight that i think there's' something wrong.

I have taken it off to see if there's anything wrong. But it doesn't look like so.

 

Is there a fix for this?

 

Thanks

Edited by alston251
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Huh? What pipe? Buffer tube? I thought the mil-spec should be a good fit and the commercial spec should be a loose one.

And isn't the PTS commercial spec? I'm kinda confused here.

 

It's fine. It's just so tight that it's weird. It's kinda tight that it's annoying to adjust. But no big deal. And strangely on third position counting from fully collapsed it clicks froward and backwards even with the friction lock on.

 

If you see what i mean. Please help.

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To max.

 

Otto is right on the wiki

 

I tried bending the shell on the magazine where the hole catches on the mag catch

 

Now it works like a charm. I think older magazines have softer material and bends in the more you use it.

 

EDIT: Initially I also tried tightening the mag catch as previously mentioned. Also to the max, but didn't work out until I tried bending the magazine shell.

Edited by inque
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It's fine. It's just so tight that it's weird. It's kinda tight that it's annoying to adjust. But no big deal. And strangely on third position counting from fully collapsed it clicks froward and backwards even with the friction lock on.

 

If you see what i mean. Please help.

 

Tight is good!!!

 

Hell, wobble SUCKS!

 

 

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Sometime ago in the news section RA-Tech said they would release a burst kit for the WE too. And you can choose to have ambi selectors or not.

I hope we can just buy the selectors and hope they can work without the burst kit.

 

Wanting:

Ambi selectors

BAD lever or ambi bolt catch of some sort

Ambi mag release

 

Do WA ambi mag releases work on the WE? As i would think it should pretty similar.

Edited by alston251
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Can anyone say that the TSC Hammer and sear are worth buying, my stock hammer, trigger and semi-sear are all worn the gun can still fire but double taps in semi and non-stop full auto. I got about 6000+ cycles to it I just wanna be sure that the TSC one will last longer than the WE parts.

 

Definitely worth it. I have them in my rifle and they are made of way better material.

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Are the WA URX front sets compatible with the WE? I'm not sure on this one because it's a rail.

 

I am planning on putting on a 9' inch DD lite rail Chinese replica on. Does it fit on the WE?

If it does which gas blocks work with it and the WE?

 

Thanks

 

Edited by alston251
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While I'm sure the real ambi mag catches will work, I just tried the King Arms one on one of my other AEGs. I can confirm that it works but with extensive modification. It will have to be shortened, seeing as how AEG's are wider than real steel. How short it will be is up to you and how far out you want it to extend. And the taper needs to be slimmed a bit as well.

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Otto is right on the wiki

 

I tried bending the shell on the magazine where the hole catches on the mag catch

 

Now it works like a charm. I think older magazines have softer material and bends in the more you use it.

 

EDIT: Initially I also tried tightening the mag catch as previously mentioned. Also to the max, but didn't work out until I tried bending the magazine shell.

I know he's right. I don't have proper tools at home to do it, but got an idea of fitting some kind of plate in place where outer casing locks. It would prevent casing from being bent and asure proper lock of the mag. But the best would be outer casing made out of steel.

Edited by Nazio
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I was trying to take off the triangular front sight to replace it with a low profile gas block. But i can't get the flash hider off. I have put a bit of loc-tite on but it's not budgine even if i heated it with a torch lighter. I have used a armorer's wrench too. What else can i do?

 

And what low profile gas blocks fit on the WE?

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