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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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Are you sure the dytac fits the WE M4? On the website, it says its for the Systema...

 

It can be used by either according to RWA, link

 

You can expect the usual excellence in DYTACs products, this Modular Upper Receiver is CNC milled to perfection, and designed specifically to fit the Systema PTW M4 series and/or the WE M4 GBB series.
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Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

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Nice Magpul MPLA billet lowers but why sell it with an upper that is just like the stock one? Would have been cheaper if they were available as a lower only.

And it would have been alot cooler if they came up with Series A MPLA with the ambi bolt release and the "china doll" Series C lower.

http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?t=755

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Ahh... but I am only looking for the upper sir! :)

 

> http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=4370

 

I can't buy it directly 'cuz of the crappy @$$ customs here. Have to pay a premium through local shops... sigh...

 

hey don't buy this upper cause i bought one a couple of months ago from redwolf it say's it will fit the WE yup it will but it has a lot of wobble with the lower you need to buy the RAtech magic pin and thru my experience it doesn't work.

 

just wait for other companies to make metal body kits....

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hey don't buy this upper cause i bought one a couple of months ago from redwolf it say's it will fit the WE yup it will but it has a lot of wobble with the lower you need to buy the RAtech magic pin and thru my experience it doesn't work.

 

just wait for other companies to make metal body kits....

 

GAH! Too late.

 

The shop has already special ordered for me. I think I'll see it next week or so... :o The magic pin doesn't work?

Edited by jesTer
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well i managed to fix my double feed problem with upgrading to CO2 kit.

 

however, when i pull the trigger to shoot on Full auto mode.

 

The gun will just keep firing non stop until i either pull out the mag or change the selector switch.

 

 

The reason it does this is because when i let go of the trigger, apparently the return spring isn't powerful enough to overcome the recoil and return it to original position.

So if i manually push the trigger forward it will stop firing.

 

Any ideas?

Edited by accuracy
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however, when i pull the trigger to shoot on Full auto mode.

 

The gun will just keep firing non stop until i either pull out the mag or change the selector switch.

 

Any ideas?

 

well... this happened to me last month so i decided to change to TSC steel internals and problem solved... probably your part #50 & #54 starts to wear so the hammer will not lock to sear properly causing it to burst non stop...

 

WEsteelinternals.jpg

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ohh. okay thanks guys.

 

Your trigger and/or hammer is already worn out, happened to mine too switched to TSC steel trigger group.

 

do you mean the sear not the trigger? cuz i didn't know that you could wear out the trigger.

 

is there an entire reinforced premade triggerset that i could purchase to save money?

 

otherwise i'm guessing this is what i'll need right?:

http://airsoft123.com/index_eproduct_view.php?products_id=6

http://airsoft123.com/index_eproduct_view.php?products_id=7

 

And do you guys think that my problem with extra gas being expelled after a shot fired could be caused by these parts being worn.

Cuz i replaced my chamber and nozzle with the CO2 conv. kit, and it appeared to only help slightly.

Edited by accuracy
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Done that too on one real P-mag, took me about 2hrs...will post some pics later. Oh and I just finished my M16 SPR.

 

Here's the kit list:

WE M16A3 regular gas version

Dboys M5 RIS(wich will be replaced by a Leapers one)

Leapers 3-x50 scope

Leapers Low Profile Picatinny Bipod

Leapers Laser on right side

Spider Fire light on left side

TSC unnidirectional rod coupled with a#42

G&P SPR Muzzle brake/Silencer

CAA ARS stock

 

Edit: here is a general picture of my SPR:

14102009307.jpg

Edited by Eliminator
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GAH! Too late.

 

The shop has already special ordered for me. I think I'll see it next week or so... :o The magic pin doesn't work?

magic pin will work as my experience when i used the magic pin it really fit perfect but when i pull the trigger all the gas in the mag releases so check yours when you install yours......

 

here's mine before

DSC03076.jpg

 

this is the current i remove the dytac upper

DSC03112.jpg

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magic pin will work as my experience when i used the magic pin it really fit perfect but when i pull the trigger all the gas in the mag releases so check yours when you install yours......

 

D@mn... looks like it'll be a 200 USD paper weight consigned to my closet... <_<

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Sounds like the Magic Pin pushes the two halves of the receiver apart to lessen the wobble. If so, then a gap would be made between the magazine gasket and the brass tube causing the gas to vent. I'm thinking switching the magazine gaskets to SCAR ones as they are a bit higher than those on M4 mags. That or manually shim the upper receiver pin holes with multiple layers of super glue to bring the two receiver halves together instead of apart.

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Hello again ^_^

 

When shooting I find my white stabilizer moving quite a bit, up until the point that it pushes thing out of alignment making it click 100% of the time.

Taking the BCG out and pushing the stabilizer back to its original position makes it good to go again. Since the stabilizer is made of a quite "fat" type of plastic the glues I've tried don't help much.

Do you guys have any nice tips? Should I just align the rod properly and ditch the stabilizer all together perhaps?

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Hello again ^_^

 

When shooting I find my white stabilizer moving quite a bit, up until the point that it pushes thing out of alignment making it click 100% of the time.

Taking the BCG out and pushing the stabilizer back to its original position makes it good to go again. Since the stabilizer is made of a quite "fat" type of plastic the glues I've tried don't help much.

Do you guys have any nice tips? Should I just align the rod properly and ditch the stabilizer all together perhaps?

 

well i could never get my rod to align properly with the stabilizer in the first place.

 

So i just tossed it aside and don't use it.

 

It should be fine considering i've already fired 4000 rounds thru my gun without it.

Just make sure you check if it gets loose or anything, or you could loc-tite it as well

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AHhh freaking Evike, I was counting on that stock charging handle for a game this weekend and they just now send me the dreaded "one or more of the items you ordered is out of stock".

 

What if I put a layer of epoxy inside the grove of my DPMS handle?

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Anybody knows if this would fit ?

http://www.gunfire.pl/product-eng-11521898...ja-M4-CASV.html

Its a modification of a real PMAG.

Saw it on another forum.

 

Involves gutting the PMAG and sanding the insides down to fit the mag internals.

 

No idea where to get real PMags from in the UK though.

 

This is was introduced in Gas Guns Forums. I did recently contact manufacturer of G-Mags:

http://www.oberlandarms.com/index.php?cate...mp;page=details

These are made by German manufacturer on license of Magpull.

 

Here is the answere:

For the UK please contact our distributor Rifle Craft Ltd. Mr. A.J. Evans-Hendrick Tel 01379 384230

Edited by Nazio
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AHhh freaking Evike, I was counting on that stock charging handle for a game this weekend and they just now send me the dreaded "one or more of the items you ordered is out of stock".

 

What if I put a layer of epoxy inside the grove of my DPMS handle?

Epoxy works. I've seen it done to a lot of WE M4 users here. Just don't forget to roughen up the surface and have some allowance for the carrier key. It worked pretty well on mine but decided to use a steel replacement just the same.

 

edit:

better do it quick though as most epoxies require 24h minimum curing time.

Edited by renegadecow
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