renegadecow Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 how can you tell if the section of the hammer that engages part #66 is worn or broken? Best to compare it to a working piece or good pics off the net. From what I've been reading, part #66 likes to get sheered into pieces (particularly the tab that the hammer presses against) instead of getting worn down. The hammer seems solid enough and have only read of problems related to wear against the sear/trigger, not with its engagement with #66. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 Well unfortunately I have to rescind my praise for AirsoftBuddy, apparently he couldn't manage to label my package properly with my certified PayPal address. Just got off the phone with the post office and my parcel is already on its way back. Â It sucks because I was about to place a big order with them. Â I wonder if there is a working return address on the package? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eliminator Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 I guess AB's adress is on the EMS sheet...where you waiting since long time on your order? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 Best to compare it to a working piece or good pics off the net. From what I've been reading, part #66 likes to get sheered into pieces (particularly the tab that the hammer presses against) instead of getting worn down. The hammer seems solid enough and have only read of problems related to wear against the sear/trigger, not with its engagement with #66. Â Posted this in the SCAR review, but might as well post here as well: Â Alright found the issue: it seems that when the hammer is pulled back, it isn't pushing up part #66 at all, it's pushing it to the side. Both my part #66's (PMC-T and stock) don't seem THAT worn, but yet it happens to both types. I took apart the trigger box and got my hammer out - I want ANYBODY to confirm that I do have a worn hammer (that small nub on the bottom that contacts part #66) and if I need a replacement or not. Â Â Â If I do need a replacement, will the TSC hammer that's for the WE M4 work? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
accuracy Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 (edited) Ordered some spare spare parts from ab on 24th in early morning. Â On the 27th he sent an email saying that order has been shipped and gave me tracking #. Â I ordered some trigger springs, couple part#66, and a new trigger. Edited October 29, 2009 by accuracy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I've just installed a Chinese 10" Noveske rail on my WE M4. And i just fired around 90rds, the rail is quite loose because the blowback has caused the barrel nut to come loose. Â So, do you guys loctite your barrel nuts? Or what do you do? It's kinda pointless for me to tighten it after every skirmish. What do they use for real steel ARs? Â Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 (edited) The gas tube usually stops it from turning. Â edit: As I suspected. Those made in China Noveske's might be copies of Madbull which insist in not putting holes in their barrel nuts to further their "airsoft-only" slogan. You could try and drill through it, but just using thread lock might be the easier solution. Edited October 29, 2009 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 The gas tube doesn't go through the barrel nut though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Manu le maboul Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Where have you found this china made noveske 10" rail ? I've never seen it anywhere . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I "fixed" my loss novske/SWS rail with a AP mount that extends onto the rail and keeps it in place, but after looking around the interweb I found this http://www.coloradoshooting.org/sws_e1free...at_hanguard.htm looks like we have to drill this badboy and install a pin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trinco Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Where have you found this china made noveske 10" rail ? I've never seen it anywhere . Â theres a new HK based airsoft online store just opened, u can buy it here Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 (edited) Cheers that's the exact one. Other than i bought it from guns and guys. Â Edit: I know what's wrong... The chinese replica doesn't have the bit of rail where it showed you to drill through in the pic. They just machined the whole chunk out. So you can fit it in easier... Damn. What can i do now? Think all i can do is loc tite it down.. Â It's the second failed rail! My replica DD Mk18 rail rattles like crazy and now this doesn't keep the barrel nut in... WE's compatibility issues are really giving me a tough time. Edited October 29, 2009 by alston251 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Manu le maboul Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Thanks a lot . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 That's a nice looking rail, good to know about the issue since I was looking at it myself. Anyone have the ACM CASV mounted? Â I need to retract my hasty criticism of Airsoftbuddy, I entered the wrong address on his website and the missed delivery was completely my fault. I placed another order; I just hope it's shipped as quickly as the first. Â Going to go ahead and try that new CNC part 61+66 and 363mm barrel with the new hop, along with a few little bits I need really badly. Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I have BOTH the madbull and the china SWS version, and as fare as I can tell there is space on both version to put a 2mm pin in them. Â Also mounting this rail type on a WE, I have found that the rail hits the dust cover pin, so you will need to cut 1-2mm of the end of that, then the rail mounts flush with the resiver. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 I don't get the bit about the anti-rotation pin hole. Where does the pin supposed to go? Where do i get a pin? Â Sorry. I'm really confused. Thanks for the help tough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 You finde something to use as a pin, and then you drill a hole for it in the rail and in the resiver, I think I will cut down a 2mm drill bit for the 2 pins I need, the pin only need to be what 10mm long. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Still looking for somewhere that has the FPS adjuster nozzle thingy in stock... Â Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 jkpics: How is the pin supposed to stay in? Â Ben: If you're after the Ra-tech NPAS: http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=5536 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Yay! now which version do I need for my M16A3? Version 2 I assume, but I don't know  Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 I just did one of mine, you onlu need a 5mm pin, 4mm into the resiver and only 1mm into the rail Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 (edited) Ben: Huh? What you on about? Â I assume you're not after the NPAS then. If it's the Uni-directional thinge you're after it's the blue one you want for an ar, black one for the scar. Â If that's not wot you want then i'm really confused... Â jkpics: how is it supposed to stay in? Did you loc tight it in? Edited October 30, 2009 by alston251 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 I just want to make my M16A3 adjustable, FPS-wise. Â Apparently, I just need the NPAS kit and no other parts, right? Â But there are two versions of the NPAS for the WE M4 - Version 1, and Version 2. Â I assume I need the latest Version, but not sure. Â Here's the link; http://www.ratech.com.tw/store/product.php?id_product=266 Â Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Wow, looks like RA-tech finally updated their awful site. I think V1 is for the old propane only nozzles and V2 is for the CO2 nozzle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 I think the M16A3 is CO2 ready, right? Â Ben. Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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