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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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So I guess we gonna start a new thread relating everyone trouble with them, and then send him an email showing the thread!

 

Edit: check this out: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...howtopic=176610 I started a new thread related to our problems with AB

 

If one of you has an account on GGI too, please post this link, I think this will help us to make him react!

Edited by Eliminator
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Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

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Double post, but for an important info: for all the guys who have problems with AB, even if you are waiting for your order/parts for more than 45 days, raise a paypal dispute, I just talked about this with WETTI and signaled them william's "new shop". They encouraged us to raise paypal disputes and pass the word everywhere!

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You guys know AB and AFC is the same thing. They operate on the same shop or something. The people in the shop deals with the orders. As for William i'm not sure what he really does. But i swear i've seen him the the shop once or twice. I can recognize his M4 :P And any new product from AB is presented in the AFC shop few days ago.

 

I think this is because no one actually buys from their site. Not that i think you actually though.

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Has anyone heard anything from WETTI recently? What happened to the PDW, HK 416, and m14?? Is it just me or has it become increasingly difficult to allocate spare parts, such as CO2 conversion parts.

 

I emailed Wetti last night about the 416, apparently it'll be out in 2-3 weeks, didn't ask about the KAC PDW, or the M14

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sorry to change the topic a bit, but just went through all the pages (for 5th or 6th time) and i think i didn't read anything about it (maybe i missed it, wich i doubt...). Is there any way to reduce the amount of gas released from the mag in every shot? i'm not talking about a NPAS or a TSC-rod, but something like a "low-flow mag valve", to reduce the FPS (to a constant value, no need to be adjustable) while increasing gas "durability".

 

I've found myself that i get 60-70ish shots with my CO2 mags (i get about 90-120 with GG), and i'd like to increase that amount of shots slightly (if possible). Is there any way? or do i have to carry a lot of CO2 powerlets? :P

 

Thanks for the answer ;)

Edited by Kowalsky
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Cheers that's the exact one. Other than i bought it from guns and guys.

 

Edit: I know what's wrong... The chinese replica doesn't have the bit of rail where it showed you to drill through in the pic. They just machined the whole chunk out. So you can fit it in easier...

Damn. What can i do now? Think all i can do is loc tite it down..

 

It's the second failed rail! My replica DD Mk18 rail rattles like crazy and now this doesn't keep the barrel nut in...

WE's compatibility issues are really giving me a tough time. :(

 

 

Part of the problem is the Chinese rails you're using. If you get better quality rails (MadBull, SOCOM Gear) you won't have these issues. It's not a WE M4 compatibility issue, either. The WE M4 uses the same threading as the real AR15 does. You just need to torque the nuts down tight enough (and do use blue loctite).

 

I've got the SOCOM Gear Lite 9 rail on my WE M4, and it's more solid than the upper and lower receiver are.

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Part of the problem is the Chinese rails you're using. If you get better quality rails (MadBull, SOCOM Gear) you won't have these issues. It's not a WE M4 compatibility issue, either. The WE M4 uses the same threading as the real AR15 does. You just need to torque the nuts down tight enough (and do use blue loctite).

 

I've got the SOCOM Gear Lite 9 rail on my WE M4, and it's more solid than the upper and lower receiver are.

 

If he wants I have the 9" socom Gear rail I would trade him for his. It fits like a glove. :P

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Is there any way to reduce the amount of gas released from the mag in every shot?

I've found myself that i get 60-70ish shots with my CO2 mags (i get about 90-120 with GG), and i'd like to increase that amount of shots slightly (if possible).

 

You could try shortening the valve knocker. I don't really know how much material reduced will relate to consumption gain, but for sure your output and recoil will be reduced as well. I'd work on a spare knocker if I were you, shortening it bit-by-bit until there's a slight felt loss in recoil and/or fps and check to see how much gain it has in consumption.

 

Theoretically though there's 2 points on the knocker that you can shorten: the actual strike face or the part that engages with part #66. Shortening the first will mean a lowering of both fps and recoil while the second may just lower your recoil and still retain your output.

 

edit:

forgot to add that you could also restrict the magazine by putting something under the rubber seal thereby limiting gas flow. Doing this will probably lower everything though but at least it's rectifiable.

Edited by renegadecow
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I got my second order from ASB today (my first order is back in Kowloon, hopefully it comes back to California soon :( .

 

Pardon the cameraphone:

 

Photo0081.jpg

 

The chormed (who knows, maybe it's a new high-tech coating we don't even know about) barrel is nothing new, but did come with the latest hopup. The nub looks like it's angled to one side and it lacks the 2-bump design of the green rubber. Also, it's a miracle the barrel wasn't bent in transit since it arrived in a plastic mailing bag with only bubble wrap to protect it. My old 262mm chrome barrel is going up for sale.

 

Part #59 is the whole reason I took my gun apart, the previous owner had a homemade replacement installed (which eventually also broke) that was supposed to be an upgrade. $150 later this is what I'm most excited to see, a stock $1.50 part! Are there tougher ones out there, or a way to keep it from snapping?

 

EDIT: LOL I just read the sig in the post above mine--I have a bad habit of ignoring sigs what can I say? PM inbound....

 

The bolt stop plates showed up today from Airsoft123--it took three weeks but hey, free shipping! I only got six for some dumb reason so I'll mark the mags they go in and keep track of any failures to lockback. I ordered the "new" steel bolt catch too, but since I don't have it yet I can do a little objective testing before and after.

 

Photo0082.jpg

 

I haven't dismantled any of my mags far enough to see where "CO2 Valve Part 2" goes yet, but I will tonight.

 

Photo0083.jpgPhoto0084.jpg

 

Here we have "Steel Made Part #61 and #66", which seem to indeed be machined out of something. Not sure if they will improve function, but steel is good, right?

Edited by kojak
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I managed to put my fully disassembled WE back together last night, and it's kicking like a champ. The CNC #61 and #66 solved my striker retraction issues, even though the stock parts did not look worn. They are bigger than the stock parts, apparently designed to be as large as possible in every dimension and still fit. I did have to file the sides of the stock valve striker a little to make it work. About that part, #62, mine looks slightly mushroomed from hitting the valves.

 

As for #59, the hammer bashes into it with every shot, right on the bent edge where it is thinnest. My stock hammer looks more worn where it contacts part #59 than where it strikes #61. I noticed renegadecow's sig right after I posted, I'm definitely ordering one from him.

 

The TSC bolt catch plates did not improve lockback. The best I can tell, the mag spring is not pressing up hard enough on the bolt catch to engage reliably. I don't know if the newer catch is shaped differently, but I'm going to try a drop of epoxy on the bottom of mine where it touches the plate.

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The TSC bolt catch plates did not improve lockback. The best I can tell, the mag spring is not pressing up hard enough on the bolt catch to engage reliably. I don't know if the newer catch is shaped differently, but I'm going to try a drop of epoxy on the bottom of mine where it touches the plate.

 

Kojak,

 

I think the problem with the lock back never engaging isn't so much as a problem with the magazine bolt catch plate as it is with the bolt-catch lever having too much play in the gun. Like you, I also purchased a set of TSC bolt catch plates for use on my Gen1 WE M4; and it didn't improve things.

 

What did fix my bolt lock problems was to pull out the bolt release lever... put it on a vise... and heat it up with a propane torch until it glowed a dull red. Then with a pair of pliers, I bent downward the lever portion that contacts the bolt catch plate on the mag. After dropping it in cold water to cool you can place it back into the gun. You'll have to eyeball it as to how far to bend it down -- it won't be much... you want to bend it down just enough to just be able to hover over a resting mag (with the bolt catch plate retracted, as for a loaded mag). But you can repeat the cycle a few times to get the size correct.

 

After doing this, my Gen1 M4 now reliably locks back when empty - even better then my Gen3 M4 (which I proceeded to modify the same way, abet with far less of a bend as the Gen1... as it looks like the tolerances on the Gen3 are much tighter).

 

 

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Our entire first run of CNC-machined hardened tool steel part #66's sold out within a month. ( http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...t&p=2183093 ) We just completed our 2nd production run and have the part back in stock again.

 

Initially, we created these just to repair and upgrade our local customers' guns, but I'm glad we've been able to help other players all over the world fix their guns too.

 

The price is still $22 each plus $2 US shipping or $3 worldwide shipping. Paypal to sales@thewarstore.org

 

We're hoping to get the price down a few bucks by the next production run.

 

dscn0855resize.jpg

 

 

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i was wondering how did you all broke part #59? i've been using my WEM4 since march09 every week until today and the only parts that broke was my charging handle and selector switch

 

kojak, renegadecow is selling part #59 in sus304 stainless steel... you can pm him for details

100_1379.jpg

 

my goodness, mine got broken also after 6000 rounds but i got the replacement for $5. This one is really interesting. It would be unreasonable price to deliver it to my country due to the shipping cost. Good job bro!

 

So far the parts that have been replaced are charging handle (replaced by the steel one), part 59, and nozzle (replaced by co2kit).

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kojak: dont forget to post about that magazine detail as soon as u find out where it goes, and if it solves any leakage issues ^_^

anxious? noooo ... ;)

 

Will do; it must go under the thing that pierces the CO2 bulb since that's the only place I have left to look. Just need to find or make another valve key.

 

I took my M4 to a game this weekend, and after maybe 100 rounds the bolt jammed in the rearward position. I had to remove the buffer tube to free it, since the whole gun was locked up tight.

 

I inspected everything, put it back together, and it got stuck again after 3 or 4 rounds. What could be causing the problem?

 

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Happened on my SPR once...maybe it wasn't lubed enough...

 

GOD DAMN William why the hell don't you reply to my god damn emails???????Why don't you ship us those f***g parts of this f***g group order???????? Makes 5 months now!!! You got 400$ of parts that you have to ship to me and 600$ to Kekedj! And after this all you wanted to be a partner of France Airsoft??? I don't think I'll be able to trust in you again!

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I think the problem with the lock back never engaging isn't so much as a problem with the magazine bolt catch plate as it is with the bolt-catch lever having too much play in the gun....

 

Mine is a Gen1; you don't think the problem could be fixed by simply installing the newest lever? I was thinking along the same lines--a blob of epoxy where it contacts the plate and just file it down until it works perfectly.

 

I almost bent mine but I was afraid to snap it without a spare handy.

 

Happened on my SPR once...maybe it wasn't lubed enough...

 

I wish it was that simple, but the gun was freshly assembled and lubed. Plus it was a hard lock-up, like something was totally preventing the bolt from moving forward.

 

In fact, even after removing the buffer tube I couldn't push the bolt forward until I released the takedown pins and wiggled it around a little.

 

On a possibly related not, does anyone have some insight or a photo of how parts #47 and #48 should be installed? I'm beginning to wonder if maybe I got it wrong.

 

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