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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

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Just had a look at that aggma article.

 

Seems interesting. Seems very LATE.

 

And certainly "in a store nearby in 2012 - 2013" ?

 

This is the 4 th generation hop-up (and barrel and ...) and WE still believes we should buy this again and again (at the prices the "sole distributors worldwide, if you can find one" ask?)...

 

If I had bought (but I couldn't because there was no supply, great) every new barrel / hopup / surroundings and some spare hopup rubbers (because, remember, it was a lucky draw to get useable ones) I think for that money I could have bought a nice AGM RIS GBB with plenty of affordable and available parts to play with.

 

But remember, the WE is such a great gun.

 

 

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I mean, WE and WETTI came up with so much ###### that didn't work, so I doubt this one will.

I do not doubt, i am sure it wont work, just like many things and promises from the past made by WE. Still i cant understand WE policy.

Edited by Nazio
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Just to be fair.

I do share opinions about Mark and Tactical Quartermaster, it seem this is the only guy within whole WE network who really cares about his customers. For WE this mate is an example to follow. This shop do not need any adverts because is excellent.

 

My personal very big, big thanks for everything what Mark and TQM is doing.

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I've put it there:

 

washer.jpg

 

Between the bolt catch and the receiver :).

As you can see, it's very very thin and Translucent so it's very discrete.

 

Now my bolt catch stay straight when the bolt catch plate push it up and it catch the bolt with a larger surface than before.

 

 

How did you knock the pin /axe out? From front to rear or vice versa ?

When I try (very gently) it won't move in any direction and I don't won't to ruin it.

 

Thanks!

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LOL, my V1 has been out on the field twice, even though it has thousands of rounds through it now.

 

Through all the fixes, from broken floating valve to O-rings freezing up the bolt.

 

Both times on the field it died, in a firefight. Which made me switch to my sidearm.

 

One time its fractured semi-auto sear, worn hammer sear. Then the next time was followed by a worn trigger sear.

 

All 3 parts are now steel, unfortunately the sear sears require a little modding to function properly.

 

Only one guy I know have been using his WE M4 full time, and he has had the works done on it as well, except it doesn't die on the field.

 

I had an AGM, and while that was also a lot of work to get performing well initially it was a lot less effort overall. Its accuracy was better than AEGs, but FPS was inconsistent as well as the FPS wasn't very high anyways even with the NPAS. So hence why I sold it.

 

Its a lot of fuss on the WE, but there is no other alternatives out there shooting accurately with blowback and at its high FPS, sadly...

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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WETTI? Who was that again..

 

 

oh, the guy who came here to have cheap beta testers for his rifles and than left without a sound...

 

I was thinking the other day, I might be the only one. Some folks here defend the guy saying "He's a busy man!" Not to busy to post all over these boards when he has a new product to sell. Strange you don't here much from him about fixes for what is turning out to be a expensive gun just to skirm.

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Truthfully, if only the selling of replacement parts went more smoothly we'd be hearing a whole lot less complaining. If only WE/WETTI themselves could do retail like KJW does. Instead they went through the whole "exclusive dealership" thing and only wound up with parts never in stock or are priced too high because it passes through so many hands. I say skip the middle man and sell parts direct.

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i have a v1 we m4 with no markings but with 5 v2 magazines. i am very happy with it, it broke down a couple of times but it worked when i needed it. here are common problems that i managed to fix permanently.

 

i use .2bbs when set on 300fps .25 if over 450fps

 

1. over hop

 

since i have a v1 hop i turned the v1(lathe) inner barrel so it can fit the v2 hop rubber. now the reason why it overhops cause there is too much material peeking in the inner barrel. even if its on off position there is enough rubber to catch the bb thus it over hops. i sanded it down till there is no rubber left on off position. you can confirm this by installing the inner barrel inside the hop assembly but without the black rubber that holds the bb (p#117). make sure the green nub is not visible on off position. never needed a bb heavier than .25 :)

 

2. magazine leaks

 

when worn out the stock rubber seal is almost the same thickness as the canal or groove it sits in. so no matter how you tighten the screws of the backplate there is just not enough rubber material to make a seal. change the seal with a thicker one like an oring perhaps?? hint hint. :) now when you tighten the screws you can see a sandwich of rubber in between the backplate and the magazine casing itself, now thats a sure seal. dont forget to apply some medium strength thread locker cause the rapid expansion and contraction caused by filling it with gas and emptying it fast loosens the screw. my mags leaks every once in a while but all i do is to lube it with oil then re tighten the screws. no need for silicon gasket makers and different types of glue that leaves nasty gunk inside my m4.thats just nasty and a backyard quick fix that i cant live with :)

 

my m4 is now set to 300fps on .2 using 134a ,cause thats our limit for cqb.

 

happy fixing,

hfc22

 

 

 

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Hi I am new to this forum but often vist Gasgun.info forum

Before new HOP-UP coming out, my firends and I have develpoed a upgrade CNC HOP-UP system. I've done the test, the accuracy is better than original XX@ (if WE claims that is Hop-Up). The most important is it is now adjustable, no need of heavier BBs to keep straight(.25g .28g .3g is enough) and the installation is quite easy.

 

For player would like to give it a shot, please drop me a msg. The shipping and price is quite reasonable(Paypal is prefered). After all, I am not make this for living, just for fun.

 

http://www.gasguns.info/forum/viewtopic.ph...18&start=10

 

A Shooting Video for your reference :

With .28bbs with green gas(12Kg) 25 Meters. In Kneeling position without supprt. Use only 2X red dot sight, might be beter if by 3X

 

 

HOP-UP Bulking photo:

 

HOP%2003.jpgHOP-UP function

hop1%20s.jpg

 

 

hop2.jpg

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I have to ask for help again regarding my jamming issue.

 

After several mags the bolt locked in the rear position. Even when I remove the buffer tube, I could not push the bolt forward until I removed both frame pins and allowed the receivers to separate slightly.

 

Upon inspection, I found a small notch has been worn into the top surface of the hammer (part #50) just behind the roller. I have ordered the TSC steel hammer, but what could have caused the notch in the first place?

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You cannot change one steel part and not change the next. It will wear the other parts.

 

Basically you need all 3 parts to be steel.

 

That figures. I was fine with the performance of the stock parts, but now I'm expecting a CNC hammer, trigger and sear, along with an NPAS. I'm more concerned with whatever put the notch in the hammer in the first place, since it's in an area where I never noticed wear before.

 

hammer.jpg

 

Red line shows approximately where the notch appeared. I'll take a photo when I get home.

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