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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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This is in reference to using all TSC steel hammer, trigger and semi-auto disconnector sear.

 

The part that requires modification is:

 

http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=377

 

post-7657-1258418608_thumb.jpg

 

Thats what you do...

 

IF you don't mod this then then the semi-auto disconnector will not release the hammer back onto the trigger sear during the end of the semi-auto cycle (when the trigger is pulled), which means as soon as the trigger is released for the next shot, the hammer will be released and it will fire another shot before you pull the trigger.

 

 

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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I see, I do have an all TSC trigger group and I do get an intermittent un-commanded discharge in semi when I release the trigger just after a shot. I thought the trigger to hammer contact surface is too small to catch the hammer after the semi auto sear is released.

I'll try doing that and see if it will help. thanks

 

HFC22, nice to see you here and thanks to your magazine work I have a leak free GG mags. I also tried sanding my black v.2 hop up rubber but I still need to do some test.

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I haven't seen anyone mention the NPAS kits on here but please forgive me if I am wrong!

Rather than do a full review in a separate section, I thought it would be good to put it in here. Just got mine this morning. A version one for the M4 and a CO2 compatible one for the SCAR.

 

Each is slightly different and comes with the right length operating rod for each bolt. Fitting is so easy I can't believe it. Simply unscrew the old nozzle off the rod and screw the new one on!! I didn't use the new rods but will keep them as spares.

 

to adjust them you put the supplied tool down the noaale and it engages on an allen key type adjuster which allows you to dial the floating valve up or down thus controlling the gas flow!

 

mine seem a little stiff but I think that would be a good thing actually to prevent unwanted winding on or off when firing.

 

I have pared the M4 one with the hexagonal rod from the TS one adjustable system; discarding the stupid little adjuster nut it has. fitted on this op rod the valve remains in the same orientation with the mags shot after shot so I think this should theorectically provide the best set up!!

 

overall i paid $87 dollars shipped from Taiwan and i think they will be worth it in the long run.

 

rating so far 9/10 we'll see how they perform before i give them a 10/10

Edited by Monkeyboy
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This is in reference to using all TSC steel hammer, trigger and semi-auto disconnector sear.

 

The part that requires modification is:

 

http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=377

 

post-7657-1258418608_thumb.jpg

 

Thats what you do...

 

IF you don't mod this then then the semi-auto disconnector will not release the hammer back onto the trigger sear during the end of the semi-auto cycle (when the trigger is pulled), which means as soon as the trigger is released for the next shot, the hammer will be released and it will fire another shot before you pull the trigger.

 

 

Would be very interesting to add this mod to the WE M4 tech guide.

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Any word on how to prevent a new CO2 nozzle (or NPAS!) from snapping? I did remove the white centering block and centered my nozzle manually using the guide in the wiki.

 

I wan't getting any misfeeds, it just started firing weird and when I opened it up the front of the nozzle was lodged in the chamber.

 

Also, be careful if you order an NPAS from Evike. They sent me a V1 nozzle even though the V2 is pictured on their site.

 

 

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I recieved my NPAS earlier this week and shot a few mags worth of shots so far.

After snapping my stock CO2 nozzle I got got a tip from this thread just to remove a millimeter or so from the small plastic #40.

This prevents quite some slammage and seems to be working, so far atleast.

 

The total number of shots fired has exceeded what my stock nozzle could handle with quite a bit. If this is due to better material, better craftmanship or just that that fix works ... only time will tell I guess ^_^

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Try sanding the front end of your nozzles gents, it will be very helpful!

 

Is this the same type of mod as shortening part #40; the nozzle assembly is a little too long and it's bashing into the end of the chamber? I guess I never tried it, but is there a to check the clearance manually by moving the nozzle forward?

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I meant the diameter, not the lenght, sorry to forgot about telling this. Sanding the diameter will smooth the movement, and there will be very less resistance

 

Ha, OK.

 

Today I did the unthinkable; I dropped my hopup nub on the carpet, losing it forever! I guess I'll be in the hardware store looking for a ridiculously small ball bearing.

 

 

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Mc guyver inside: try a ball pen :P it isn't the best but it's helpful ;)

 

or you could use a strong magnet to sweep your carpet.

 

I TRIED that--at first I used an ultra torque AEG motor and when the hardware store search came up dry I picked up a bar magnet. Either the little sucker is non-ferrous, it flew across the room somewhere, or it's lodged deep in the nap of the carpet. The ball from a pen is much too small.

 

So I was almost at the end of my rope when I ran across some craft beads at Wal-Mart. They have some roundish metal beads that are close in size, but what I ended up using is a 2mm metal cylinder bead, filled with epoxy so the edges don't cut into the rubber.

 

This may actually be an upgrade, since the flat surface puts more even pressure on the hopup rubber than the original spherical nub. Plus the length can be filed for more or less hop. I don't want to fire the gun until I replace the worn hammer, but I should have some results next week.

 

Does anyone else have resistance in the bolt assembly? When I rack the gun, the charging handle does not always move all the way forward to lock. I installed the NPAS without the white "centering block", and even though I'm certain I have the nozzle centered I can feel some resistance when I install the bolt in the chamber.

 

Don't say I should lube it up first you perverts.

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lost mine a long time ago, and i did use i shaft as a replacement for that tiny bearing. i used a shaft from a dremel grinding wheel. the only diff with ur craft bead is that i cut the top part diagonally so it would recenter itself from the pressure of the knurled ring.

 

 

|\

|_| kinda like that

 

julietcharlie is using the same thing, i told him about the shaft upgrade when he lost the bearing.

 

if anyone is interested i can take pics of it.

Edited by mnmc10
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I could have probably found a bearing in a specialty shop, but it was late on Sunday and I wanted to put my upper together.

 

Speaking of shaped nubs, if you were to cut a larger square-shaped hole where the bearing goes you could make a nylon nub with a concave lower surface like Shredder's AEG nub.

 

 

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mnmc, maybe we can modify the pin by rounding off the top portion instead of cutting it diagonal. In addition to the pin I have a small rubber pad (cut from a spare AEG piston head o-ring) under the pin so the arrangement goes like this; from the top - pin, small rubber pad and hop-up rubber.

 

I get better results than stock set-up but I still need a few more adjustment to come to upgraded AEG precision standard.

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