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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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Do you mean further in towards the receiver? The edge of my buffer tube just clears the little nipple that holds the buffer in; I don't think it could be screwed in any further.

 

 

I think you need to screw it OUT about 2 turns (that helped for me and I think it's mentioned somewhere in this thread).

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Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

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Both our V1 WE M4s and my mates V3 have 14mm- thread and as such I have added a L119 barrel on mine on occasions along with the older style stock etc.

 

Well that´s odd, since my V1 has CW (+) thread. They must have changed to CCW threads already during production of V1.

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I found out last night my inner barrel is the v1, ie. it has a small green rubber nub while lies inside of a groove in additon to the rubber bucking at the end of the barrel. I want to switch it out to the newer ones is the new one a drop-in fit? Do I need to change anything else to the hop-up unit for the new one to fit?

 

Plus, with the new chrome barrels, will I still need to add the black rubber piece at the end of the barrel?

Edited by jesTer
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I think you need to screw it OUT about 2 turns (that helped for me and I think it's mentioned somewhere in this thread).

 

I'm not sure why it would have added resistance at the end of the bolt's travel, but I backed my buffer tube out a bit and it seems to have solved the problem. Thanks!

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I'm not sure why it would have added resistance at the end of the bolt's travel, but I backed my buffer tube out a bit and it seems to have solved the problem. Thanks!

 

Yeah, it has to be flush with the lower receiver, about 5mm away from the small recoil buffer detent.

 

-Luis

Edited by Luis21
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That's crazy; I guess the previous owner must have put it in too far at some point since it's one of the few things I never messed with.

 

Now I can look after the little things, like how can I reduce the play between the upper and lower receiver? It's slight but the rest of the gun is so solid that it's annoying.

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That's crazy; I guess the previous owner must have put it in too far at some point since it's one of the few things I never messed with.

 

Now I can look after the little things, like how can I reduce the play between the upper and lower receiver? It's slight but the rest of the gun is so solid that it's annoying.

 

The failure point on the receivers is at the front where the pivot pin goes in. There is too much side to side play in that area. My AGM receiver doesn't even wobble! But the WE is 100x nicer.

 

-Luis

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What I did is remove the upper, clean the front pin hole thoroughly from oil and lightly sand the bottom of the hole (600 grit). Smear a small amount of super glue on the roughened surface and let dry. Get a screw driver and wrap fine (800~1000 grit) sandpaper around it and smooth out the dried glue surface until you get a perfect fit between upper and lower. The glue eventually wears off as you keep splitting the receiver for maintenance but won't be for some good number of months and the whole re-gluing process only takes like 30 min.

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I made a little video on youtube if you guys want to check it out. I basically directly compare the ROF of the CO2 and GAS (propane) mags.

 

After much testing, I find propane is much better. Aside from cooldown effect, CO2 has little to offer as the FPS and ROF is VERY inconsistent. It costs more and the stupid valves still leak.

 

Check it out..

 

Edited by Autotechnica
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I cannot agree with the leakage tho.

With my "new type" co2 mags i still had about 20 shots after two weeks of storage. This was after firing rougly a mag and a half twoo weeks earlier.

all my 6 newer type mags behaves this way.

The full auto is a bit erratic tho, just as u say ... but, with 30 bb's in each mag I find myself firing full auto almost .... uh ... never :)

This being said i havent had in in any cqb games yet due to that I havent finished my cqb upper yet ;P

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The full auto is a bit erratic tho, just as u say ... but, with 30 bb's in each mag I find myself firing full auto almost .... uh ... never :)

Nothing to add.

@Autotechnica - I did full auto test on both propane and CO2 magz. Propane = disaster, but on CO2, altough ROF was ######, rifle did work much better. Even bolt cach did work.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3r_k9FGGCs

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdXAaMCRsBM...feature=related

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I have noticed the FPS fluctuating on CO2--especially an extra hot first BB. More than you would expect from cooldown, like 380 then it evens out between 340 and 350 for the rest of the mag. If I stop for a few minutes and fire it again I get 380.

 

I can't compare it to propane though, my only GG mag is FUBAR.

On the bright side, I wrapped up my last game by dumping five CO2 mags on full auto, and the ROF stayed constant down to the last BB. Somewhere along my upgrade path I seem to have fixed the random "chugging" problem.

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Hmmmm... that propane video you posted looks like the mags were stone cold. That's how my gun fires usually after I've emptied a full propane mag, then instantly refill and then do another full auto run. Did you let the mags sit for a bit before you fired them? Also, what was the amb. temp?

 

My tests were done at 20 degrees celcius, I let both CO2 and Propane mags sit for about 10 min. Both mags had a drop of light silicon oil. I find the Propane mags are much better, better ROF, more consistent FPS and more kick.

 

My CO2 mags always have a pattern where they start off weak for the first 10 shots or so, then next 10 shots are perfect, very strong, good FPS and good ROF, then the last 10 rounds they start to die off again. What gives? Does this every single time in all of my 5 different CO2 mags.

 

BTW, I have 4 propane gas mags, after soaking all of the valves in silicon oil overnight, I got 2 of them to stop leaking, the other 2 still leak badly. My 8 C02 mags, 5 of the mags leak, but a very quiet hiss, doesn't affect performance, but I'm sure if I gamed with them, I would be out of gas when I needed to fire.

 

On a side note, looks like a chunk of cheap shiney pot metal flew out of my mag well. I'm guessing it looks like the hammer peice which engauges the magazine nozzle. But it doesn't seem to be affecting the function of my gun.

 

Also, if you notice in my video, the first CO2 mag I used the bolt stop was in the "on" position. It did lock back when I pulled the charging handling, but I just tapped the charging handling and it pushed the bolt forward. It's so weak. I never had the bolt lock back once after my bb's were out. What's the deal? The stock bolt catch plates will not even lock the bolt back at all when I pull the charging handle, the TSC ones I got at least will kind of lock it back, but just very losely.

 

thanks.

 

Bry

Edited by Autotechnica
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Look at the corner of the BCG that engages against the stop latch. If its rounded/chewed out, that would explain why it slips most of the time and why a fairly small amount of force is required to make it slip. File it down flat at right angles. After doing this, browse through couple or so pages back for a "bolt stop washer mod". Helps making the bolt stop work better.

edit:

Was farther back than I remembered. By Manu le Maboul (near bottom of page).

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...736&st=6140

Edited by renegadecow
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I cannot agree with the leakage tho.

With my "new type" co2 mags i still had about 20 shots after two weeks of storage. This was after firing rougly a mag and a half twoo weeks earlier.

all my 6 newer type mags behaves this way.

The full auto is a bit erratic tho, just as u say ... but, with 30 bb's in each mag I find myself firing full auto almost .... uh ... never :)

This being said i havent had in in any cqb games yet due to that I havent finished my cqb upper yet ;P

 

Did you buy yours from D-Gear in Sweden?

 

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It's been a while since I posted but I have still been watching the thread loosely. I have a couple of questions. I own two of the first batch of CO2 mags, what do people mean by "new type" CO2 mags? What has changed? I get about 26 shots out of a full CO2 bulb!

 

I am also interested in knowing if anyone knows of a better replacement bolt catch. I have recently fitted a MagPul BAD lever and a RS pin for the bolt catch (ping pong paddle) but the WE standard catch is way too loose.

 

Thanks and Merry Christmas to all,

 

Mark

Edited by Marky [UE]
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The ACM Mk18 RISII fits perfectly, so I guess the socomgear one fits too.

 

Yeah i'm just asking because the fitting responses are all over the place, some say it fits some dont ... I'll buy it and try it myself i guess :D

 

Try this: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...t&p=2216296.

 

An AEG shim is perfect for that, the thinner one ;) .

 

Confirmed that, my bolt catch was very loose and would give erratic bolt lock in my v1 body, a small shim worked wonders!

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I have a V1 M4 with a brand new shimmed steel bolt catch AND the TSC bolt catch plates on six of my mags, they didn't lock back any better than the mags that still have the original plate (about 25% of the time).

 

If you open up the gun, you can see that the bolt catch just barely contacts the plate. Just add a couple mm to that spot somehow--I put a dab of epoxy on the bolt catch, another member heated and bent his.

 

Edit: shim the bolt catch first, that does make a big difference.

 

The other problem is the dry-fire switch on the mag, it has to be completely off for the plate to work and they are really touchy. I might just superglue mine someday.

Edited by kojak
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