renegadecow Posted May 30, 2010 Report Share Posted May 30, 2010 That sounds odd. Like the valve on the magazine doesn't line up properly with the knocker unless you push it up? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deltacor Posted May 30, 2010 Report Share Posted May 30, 2010 just got my WE M4 CQBR and well its great, good recoil so its great. Problemm is sometimes it jam's. And when i try pull the charging handle it will fire  Anyone got any explanations?   Quote Link to post Share on other sites
voidshadow Posted June 1, 2010 Report Share Posted June 1, 2010 Does anyone know how to remove the rubber buffer spacer in the buffer tube? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 It's stuck there real good, probably with some kind of adhesive. And for a good reason. Since the hammer of the WE M4 is shorter, it takes a shorter stroke of the carrier to clear past the hammer. If you were to remove the rubber buffer in the receiver extension, the carrier will go past the hammer and should the hammer fall while the carrier is in the rear, you're in trouble. Also, the piece of rubber cushions a lot of the carriers inertia. Without it, the rear section of the lower receiver might come off like what's been happening to the PDW (until WE put a rubber buffer behind the bolt as well). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L33 Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 just got my WE M4 CQBR and well its great, good recoil so its great. Problemm is sometimes it jam's. And when i try pull the charging handle it will fire  Anyone got any explanations?  Sounds like the white plastic collar on the guide rod housing has slipped forward. Push it back/glue it in place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Noobgunner Posted June 12, 2010 Report Share Posted June 12, 2010 (edited) Got a question to those with experience, I'm looking at a lower reciever with markings to replace my naked lower. Since I've never disassembled the trigger pack. How hard is it to strip the guts out and transfer them to the new lower? Does the trigger pack come out in one piece, or do you have to rebuild the sear, sear spring, hammer extra and then put them back in. I'd hate to spend the money, if it is a very challenging endevour to change out lowers. Â Also, does anyone have the LAT roller bearing set like LAT-WP-LAT0001-AG on airsoftglobal.com? Does it improve function, and where can I find one in stock? Thanks, Noob Edited June 12, 2010 by Noobgunner Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RayL Posted June 12, 2010 Report Share Posted June 12, 2010 Got a question to those with experience, I'm looking at a lower reciever with markings to replace my naked lower. Since I've never disassembled the trigger pack. How hard is it to strip the guts out and transfer them to the new lower? Does the trigger pack come out in one piece, or do you have to rebuild the sear, sear spring, hammer extra and then put them back in. I'd hate to spend the money, if it is a very challenging endevour to change out lowers.  Thanks, Noob  Honestly I don't think it's really worth the trouble (or money) just to have trades, that's my opinion. If you choose to do so I can give you a quick rundown of the basic steps required.  First remove or loosen the pistol grip screw to relieve the tension placed on the fire selector (you can remove the grip but make sure you don't lose the spring or detent) , next carefully pull out the selector by rotating it side to side (you may need to hold the sear back). After removing the selector, using a screwdriver remove the brass screw that holds the trigger pack inside the lower receiver. Then using a pin punch, remove the pin closest to the magazine release button.  After that, the trigger pack should be free and can be lifted out from the lower receiver as a single unit. When pulling the trigger pack out, hold it upright making sure you don't tilt it, as the pin that holds the sear in place is loose and will slide out causing the sear and spring to come out of the pack. Also, watch out for part #66 and the spring that holds it in place, both are located on the side of the trigger pack, they tend to jump out sometimes.  Once you separate the trigger pack from the lower receiver, there is no need to disassemble it any further. Transferring the bolt catch, magazine release assembly, trigger guard, and front pivot pin is fairly simple. When transferring your buffer tube assembly, you will also be able to remove the rear take down pin. The last thing to transfer would be your buffer retainer pin and spring.  Having the right tools makes a world of difference. Good luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted June 14, 2010 Report Share Posted June 14, 2010 Got a question to those with experience, I'm looking at a lower reciever with markings to replace my naked lower. Since I've never disassembled the trigger pack. How hard is it to strip the guts out and transfer them to the new lower? Does the trigger pack come out in one piece, or do you have to rebuild the sear, sear spring, hammer extra and then put them back in. I'd hate to spend the money, if it is a very challenging endevour to change out lowers. Â Â I bought the lower with Colt markings from ASB; it was pretty cheap and I was ordering some parts anyway. While it was FAR nicer looking than my Gen 1 lower, installing it was a massive hassle. Â WE is notorious for making undocumented design changes and tolerance adjustments, and the newer bodies use much smaller frame pins. Expect to do a LOT of dremeling. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dermonic Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 just wanted to share my experience. i left the empty mag inside the car. it was kind of hot outside anyway, i loaded the mag with propane. i heard a "thud", ignored it, a few miunutes later this happened.   even the duct tape was torn apart.  that night, i was refilling another mag. i just placed one second push of propane. then i heard another "thud" here what i found   i guess we better be careful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 From the images, it looks like you have first generation mags (surprised you haven't thrown away yours yet). They have half the number of support struts inside, thinner wall thickness and are externally identified by the single cast line running along the bottom of the mag. The new ones have double the struts, thicker, and have two cast lines across the bottom of the mag for identification. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
julietcharlie Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 Yup those are gen 1 mags alright. I'd use it for 134a only if I still have them, all 3 of my gen 1 mags are gonners. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dermonic Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 need to buy more mags... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shortbus Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 I have a couple questions: Â Is the CO2 version also known as version 4? Is the CO2 version compatible with regular GreenGas/Propane magazines? Does the CO2 version still shoot a hard hitting 450+ FPS? (I want this because I will be primarily using this gun for long range target shooting.) Â Any help is appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian24 Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Until now there are only 3 "versions", the third being CO2 ready. All models currently sold are CO2 (unless the seller has some stock of first gen replicas). Co2 versions will work with GG mags and I think that depending of the weather you'll reach 450 fps very easily on CO2... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alyaspogi Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 can't wait for the WE M4 open bolt! Â http://www.youtube.com/user/WEairsoft#p/u/1/dXiE3IRPnVY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dermonic Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 http://en.ratech.com.tw/product/rag/rag_we/rag_we.php  ra tech is selling the red oring. is this the part 122? anyone have tried this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alyaspogi Posted June 28, 2010 Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 http://en.ratech.com.tw/product/rag/rag_we/rag_we.php  ra tech is selling the red oring. is this the part 122? anyone have tried this?  what's the function of this anyway? it say that it can be used on low temperature? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted June 29, 2010 Report Share Posted June 29, 2010 Earlier I mentioned the new black coated TSC nozzles: I know their stuff doesn't always work, but the "current stabilizing steel nozzle" is GTG. Â I need to clarify this: The polished metal TSC "stabilizing" nozzle is good to go (meaning mine has yet to break on an M4 which has claimed several weaker ones), the black one ain't. It's not just a coating, they are subtle differences in the shape which might have been signs of improvement, however the threaded base is undersized and won't mesh with those of the outer nozzle body. Even with Loctite it comes apart after the first shot. It may be possible to superglue the nozzle together but mine went in the trash. Â Any other reinforced nozzles out there? Â Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alyaspogi Posted June 29, 2010 Report Share Posted June 29, 2010 Earlier I mentioned the new black coated TSC nozzles: Â Â I need to clarify this: The polished metal TSC "stabilizing" nozzle is good to go (meaning mine has yet to break on an M4 which has claimed several weaker ones), the black one ain't. It's not just a coating, they are subtle differences in the shape which might have been signs of improvement, however the threaded base is undersized and won't mesh with those of the outer nozzle body. Even with Loctite it comes apart after the first shot. It may be possible to superglue the nozzle together but mine went in the trash. Â Any other reinforced nozzles out there? Â well i bought the one from RA-TECH it has four pillars instead of three...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eliminator Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 hey guys, there is a new shop down here in France: www.airsoft-entretien.com they just started their business, and, according to their website, they sell "fiabilized" WEs as well as customs, with, as far as I can see, many RS and ra tech parts, that sounds good! From what I have understand, they work only on special orders for now...sounds good! Â Beside this, my WE M4 still runs like a charm, after nearly 10000 rounds! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hugh_b Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Hi guy's, i'm thinking of purchasing the we tech m4 cqb co2 ready version. I've tried to read through this thread but haven't got alot of time right now and 300 pages takes along time! I'm hopeing someone can help...  -How are the latest c02 ready versions of this gbb? What should i be looking at upgrading or are they good out of the box apart from pprehaps an n-pas?  Thanks  Hugh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
somegirls Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 can't wait for the WE M4 open bolt! Â http://www.youtube.com/user/WEairsoft#p/u/1/dXiE3IRPnVY Â The question is, is it worth spending that additional, I dunno, $100-$150 or what, or just go ahead and buy a King Arms or VFC M4 GBB. Since WE hasn't come up with one release that works right out of the box I'm pretty sure there will be issues with this thing too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D-JHapyMeal Posted July 19, 2010 Report Share Posted July 19, 2010 The question is, is it worth spending that additional, I dunno, $100-$150 or what, or just go ahead and buy a King Arms or VFC M4 GBB. Since WE hasn't come up with one release that works right out of the box I'm pretty sure there will be issues with this thing too. Â Â They have greatly improved sine their generation 1 series. And I heard the VFC aint THAT good. Dont know about King arms though... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Break100 Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 Just installed Ratech Stinger Hop up set into my M4. Now i really like my m4. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bamse Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Break100: without any other paper shimming except the ones u got in the bag/box? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.