jkpics Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 AccuWedge is worthless in real guns and about the same in a WE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 I prefer using a magic pin to solve that btw Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Â AccuWedge is worthless in real guns and about the same in a WE Â Â Well, I'll take your word for it in a real gun, but it honestly did stop the wobble in my WE. For how long, I have no idea. But, we'll see. It was only $5 US, so no big deal. Â And Daniel, you're talking about the RA-Tech pin, right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 For the Magic pin MAKE SURE TO LOSEN IT UP BEFORE SPLITTING RECEIVER, I destroy my G&P WOC upper because of it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted November 5, 2011 Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 Ok guys got a WE M4 to look at for a mate it has a range of symptoms. Its had an open bolt kit fitted and sometimes it will full auto on semi and sometimes the bolt will jam when being cycled with the charging handle.  Two polar opposite problems it would seem. Any ideas guys?  Cheers  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 I was at my local "swap meet" bought a single VN mag to try it out... HOLY ######, it's so much better no wonder people were demanding for new version of Open Bolt M4 mags. Â The cool-down effect were so much more tamed. If there's MOLLE pouch for Short M16 mag I would switch to the 20 rounder instead. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Ok guys got a WE M4 to look at for a mate it has a range of symptoms. Its had an open bolt kit fitted and sometimes it will full auto on semi and sometimes the bolt will jam when being cycled with the charging handle.  Two polar opposite problems it would seem. Any ideas guys?  Cheers  First look at the spring pin holding the buffer spring, is it high? is the bolt *fruitcage* it up? how is the bolt looking where it interfaces with this pin?  Screw the pin down, and smooth out the bolt with a small file, you may need to "ramp" the bolt were it hits the pin.  That should fix the jamming, see if that makes the other problems go away as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ManMarin3 Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 what JKpics said and you may need to look at the trigger or hammer sear as they may have worn out, alternatively could be a cracked trigger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Also make sure the buffer tube is not screwed too far out causing the bolt to snag when fully rearward. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 Cheers guys will take it to bits soon and post again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bjerhof Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 I've run into a bit of weird problem with one of my CO2 mags for my M4. The last few games one of the magasines have been a bit hard to get out of the magwell but for some reason it's now even harder to get in...actually have to slam it a few times to get it in there and it's almost impossible to get out again. Â I've compared it to my other mags and it dosn't seem like theres any difference physically but can't figure out what else it might be...anyone had a problem like this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
carabinero Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 I was at my local "swap meet" bought a single VN mag to try it out... HOLY ######, it's so much better no wonder people were demanding for new version of Open Bolt M4 mags. Â The cool-down effect were so much more tamed. If there's MOLLE pouch for Short M16 mag I would switch to the 20 rounder instead. Â Hi there, in terms of Blowback, recoil and cycling, How do you felt the 20 rounder compared to the old 30 rounder? I'm curios about the new valves being used by the newer one...Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 (edited) There's no difference in terms of blowback/recoil/cycling, the VN mags do behave better in terms of showing cooldown though and even when completely frozen they still function without spilling all the gas they have. The downsides are gas capacity and they will get too cold if you reload them more than 2/3 times. Â Regarding the pouches i just use regular pouches and stuff something in the bottom to make some height. Edited November 7, 2011 by danielsilva Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 (edited) I've run into a bit of weird problem with one of my CO2 mags for my M4. The last few games one of the magasines have been a bit hard to get out of the magwell but for some reason it's now even harder to get in...actually have to slam it a few times to get it in there and it's almost impossible to get out again. Â I've compared it to my other mags and it dosn't seem like theres any difference physically but can't figure out what else it might be...anyone had a problem like this? Â If you separate the upper/lower receivers, does that magazine fit normally into the lower receiver okay? No issues inserting/releasing it? Edited November 7, 2011 by ODA15 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bjerhof Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 I won't even go that far unless I give it a few good taps, that's the weird part. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Why don't you put some chalk ( or something that rubs off easily ) on the mag, insert and remove and then see where is it rubbing. Â You didnt answered that last question though, does the mag enter freely if you separate the lower from the upper ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bjerhof Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Well what I meant to say was that the mag can't get in far enough for the upper reciever to be a problem, it'll only go in up til the notch for the mag catch, so just a few centimeters. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 (edited) Well what I meant to say was that the mag can't get in far enough for the upper reciever to be a problem, it'll only go in up til the notch for the mag catch, so just a few centimeters. Â Well, at least you know that the issue is now not the top plastic part of the magazine that touches the nozzle, but the body itself. I'd do what danielsilva suggested and try to mark (with chalk, graphite, etc) the body of the magazine (approximately the top 1/3 or so) and then insert it into the lower receiver. This it'll let you know where exactly it's rubbing/catching. Â It could be that the magazine has just expanded for some reason. It wouldn't take much to make the magazine not fit, either. Just a couple of millimeters worth of expansion. Edited November 8, 2011 by ODA15 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 (edited) - Sorry! Double post! Edited November 8, 2011 by ODA15 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 (edited) Question what is the lowest temperature you guys game with your Open-Chamber M4?  is the co2 worth the trouble? (heard a lot of complaint on leaky co2) or is it simply better just run 20 rounder (seems to me 20 rounder can work at lower temperature than the gas 30 rounder)  Price wise...(Using RA-tech since they have the lowest price I've seen)  Open Chamber CO2 30 rounder $44USD/mag Open Chamber Gas 30 rounder $32USD/mag Open Chamber Gas 20 rounder $30USD/mag  Anyone have all three can give some insight?  I'm considering gaming with my GBBR in this late season (temperature is around -5C to 5C in Edmonton right now) From my own experience, I wouldn't want to use the shell-base mag in cold due to the fact it will spill liquid way too easily. Debating between CO2 30 rounder (suck up to $0.50/ 12g) and buy an extra set of 20 rounder and use propylene in winter (obviously it won't work -20C, but -10C might be possible) Edited November 9, 2011 by kullwarrior Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 (edited) I would say that if you're a conservative player using co2 might be beneficial but if you play use other very short and spaced bursts, imho its not worth it. Â Last year or so I went to a game in the Czech Republic and took my CB WE M4 with me, since it was cold there ( -5 at one point ) I tried to use my co2 mags but after a few hours I had to switch to propane cause the low temps and high humidity kept freezing everything, at one point I had to hammer down the carrier forward since the water froze from the co2 and the carrier got stuck. Â The co2 mags are more maintenance free but if you live in a cold and wet area, the co2 might create more problems than fix things. I sold all my co2 mags and bought VN mags instead. Edited November 9, 2011 by danielsilva Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 OK chaps had a look at the M4 with full auto problems. Â I screwed down the buffer retainer was way far out and the manual cycling is much better and semi works most of the time. Â Now its running open bolt Co2 and the kick is um lame. Also the gas efficency is horrific. Now the bolt how do I take it to bits? I've checked anf the nozzle moves and returns fine on its spring so that's ok but I'd like to poke about inside the nozzle the other brands nozzles KJW & WA come to bits does this one?? Â Â Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 Update the sear part #48 was bent out of shape from incorrectly fitting an Ambi Selector the leg that runs to the selector was bent at almost 90 degrees. I reshaped it and the semi function is now ok. Â However two new things (maybe not new I just didnt notice till testing) the selector can go safe/semi/auto even when not cocked, its a new trigger box that was fitted when the open bolt was done so I've rulled out wear and it doesnt fire on safe so I don't think its a cracked trigger. Is it possibly the ambi selector is out of spec since its aftermarket? Â Second thing it vented when I tried auto and I have no more Co2 at the moment, so not sure if it was just a fluke. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 The no safe when not cocked issue is a non issue, it happens unfortunatly and it is a feature that you cannot expect nor rely on to work properly, not out of the box or after use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
weekenny Posted November 20, 2011 Report Share Posted November 20, 2011 Ok cheers dude, I figured as much. Â I'll get more Co2 and test the auto again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.