tome Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 I actually have a PDW but since the trigger box is the same between the two i thought i'd ask here. Is it possible to lighten the trigger pull? I've heard that this is a "realistic" pull for an m4 but for me after years of AEGs and a KJ m4 it just seems too heavy for me and it's making my double taps feel wierd :-S Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nath Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 The WE M4 comes with a magazine. Is it a gen 2 mag or gen 1? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 That depends on how long the gun have been with the dealer, buy the gun from a dealer who will have a look at the mag for you before you buy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stuey Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 My friend (Krydel on here) bought a WE SCAR about a month ago, was out of stock in the UK so was ordered from Taiwan. It still came with a gen 1 mag, which obviously almost immediately began to leak and he's in the process of selling. I took it apart, it really is an awful design. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smoke Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 (edited) Hi guys... I've taken the plunge and bought an OB XM177e2... Love it, great fun etc... Quick fix needed please, I'm aware it's a known issue (by searching on the various forums), but nowhere seems to explain the actual fix. I'm using the 20 round mags, and one of them doesn't want to sit properly. The magazine feed lips don't clear the feed ramp (correct term?), so the mag won't insert fully without a good smack (which seems to be the generally considered 'fix'). Whilst I'm not afraid to put a reasonable amount of force behind seating a mag, with the bolt locked back, I can see it's a good 1mm+ of overlap to overcome with brute force, and I'd rather not ruin the feed ramp, or excessively smash the mag lips (which are already showing wear from the couple of times I've given it a whack). There is no obvious difference between this one mag with an issue, and any of my others which seat fine - So there's nowhere obvious I need to file down. Can anyone suggest a fix, or is this just one of those things, and I have a defective magazine? Should I take a file to the front of the lips, or will that cause further issues? Any help very gratefully received Thanks in advance. Edited January 14, 2013 by Smoke Quote Link to post Share on other sites
carabinero Posted January 15, 2013 Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 Hi Smoke, Is the top part/mag lips fully seated? Sometimes they're prone to tilt, check if it seats flush with the top of the magazine, maybe taking some pics of the top of the mag will help to find the issue... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smoke Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 I saw this issue a couple of pages back, and it does indeed appear to be (very slightly) raised at the back. By about 1mm (so enough to tilt the feed lips out) Stripped the mag down and reseated the top section, but it refuses to sit flush. Tightening the screw further is risking stripping the threads... The metal used for the screw itself is very soft! Unfortunately unable to take a pic right now, but I think I've found the issue... Just not a way to fix it yet . On another note. Do these 20 round mags take 20, or 30 rounds?? The manual states 30, but I've read that trying to force more bbs in than you should, will almost certainly break it, so I'm loath to find out just by trying to load 30 in. Appreciate the help though... Ironically I went gas, as taking a gearbox apart just never goes well for me! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 Give it a little tap with a rubberized tool, like the grip of a screwdriver and it should pop down, tightening the screws does not help, you need to tell that mag lip where it belongs with some authority ! Just make sure you tap the flat back end so you dont break the actual lips. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smoke Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 Haha! I thought it might need a 'love tap' with a rubber hammer to sort out! Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
carabinero Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 Exactly, a little "kiss" will convince that sucker... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smoke Posted January 16, 2013 Report Share Posted January 16, 2013 (edited) In answer to my own "how many rounds does a 20 round mag hold" question, I've confirmed the answer as 20, despite what the WE manual says. Luckily I managed to find this out before running out of patience, and breaking something Edited January 16, 2013 by Smoke Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Knightvi Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Just ordered a new WE HK416 pre-upgraded from RA-TECH. Would anyone recommend any further upgrades over the following that come fitted: WE 4168 Open Bolt GBB Rifle RA Precision inner barrel 6.01 RA steel CNC hammer RA steel CNC sear RA steel CNC trigger RA TECH WE Valve Locker RA TECH WE firing pin base RA Hop Rubber RA TECH Open Bolt NPAS I know this is the M4 thread but internally it's essentially the same! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 Yeah upgrade thise parts RA TECH WE Valve LockerRA TECH WE firing pin base to WE stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted February 19, 2013 Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 I just picked up a real steel AR15a2 upper receiver tonight. Over the next couple weeks i plan to modify it to work with my WE m16a3. Doesnt look like much work is required, just a few notches cut and a little grinding. Ive never understood why its impossible to get an M16a2 when practically everybody makes an A1 upper. No love for my generation i guess. But Hopefully this turns out well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bloodsword Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 Yea, show us some pics if you get the gun up. M16 is a neat rifle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Basic-Wedge Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 I just picked up a real steel AR15a2 upper receiver tonight. Over the next couple weeks i plan to modify it to work with my WE m16a3... I had no idea a real steel upper could be adapted to work with airsoft components. That's certainly not something the laws of most counties would ever allow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 (edited) Yea, show us some pics if you get the gun up. M16 is a neat rifle. Today I finally broke down the RS upper receiver. I had gotten a Bushmaster DCM competition upper for relatively cheap. Only problem was it had a heavy national match barrel with a DCM free-float tube installed, from the factory and the barrel nut was on tight as hell. I had the appropriate armorer's wrench for the tube but I had to borrow a receiver vice block from the police department (We're pals, I make their body armor carriers). Since it was a bushmaster upper though, I had to use a propane torch and an 18 inch breaker bar to get the damn barrel nut off. took the better part of 2 hours or so. So now that the barrel is off I can start doing the modifications necessary to the upper receiver. Edited February 21, 2013 by Brigg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 (edited) OK, so, today I was able to do the modifications to the upper receiver. It fits the WE perfectly now, And the barrel indexes up perfectly as well. On,ly issue is that the chamber doesnt have an index pin like you would find on a real AR15. So, since theres no inner lip on a real upper receiver to set the headspace, I have to add an index pin myself. Im thinking to just use a grub screw. But heres what it looks like assembled, just the chamber can wobble around so its not fireable yet. "I had no idea a real steel upper could be adapted to work with airsoft components. That's certainly not something the laws of most counties would ever allow. " Problem isnt modifying rs parts to fit airsoft guns, the problem would be modifying airsoft parts to fit RS. If i can legally buy an AR15 upper, theres no reason I cant legally chop it up and stick it on a toy gun. However, If I want to take a toy gun receiver and stick it on a real AR15, and it works, thats an issue. Of course, a WE receiver would explode if you attempted to fire a 223 round from it. Edited February 22, 2013 by Brigg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bloodsword Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Whow, it looks nice! Do you have a Prime lower receiver on it? Is the outer barrel a stock one, or a steel version (it has a grey color)? Another thing, does anyone have a complete list of RS parts that will fit WE M4/M16? I know quite many external parts fit. I was mainly thinking about hammer, fire selector and trigger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 everything on that is stock aside from the Bushmaster upper receiver. However its an older WE closed bolt, not a newer body. I know that almost all RS furniture is compatible with the WE, but Im unsure about the buffer tube itself. I also dont think you will be able to use any RS internals, as WE's have their own trigger pack that drops in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 I think WE only makes steel M16 barrels, part of the reson the M16 cost a little more then the M4. RS buffer tubs fit WE. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
QQexDERA Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) Brigg - have you had a look at Turok's "real steel" WE M4 build over on GGi? He even manages to use a real lower receiver (lots of mods, but it fits), and he's done some great pictorial guides on how to do the mods. The following real-steel parts, from my own experience, will fit: Buffer tube and nut Stock plate Buffer Forward assist assembly Ejection port cover assembly (slight mod to receiver so ball detent on ejection port cover clips into place securely) Fire selector (with modifications) Charging handle (with modifications) Z-M Accuwedge (reduces slop between upper and lower receivers, but needs serious butchery) Edited February 26, 2013 by QQexDERA Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 To be honest, Having installed the open bolt kit into it today, I wouldnt bother putting any other RS parts onto it. I wanted an A2 upper because WE doesnt make one. I dont see any reason to use any RS parts beyond that unless they are somehow going to improve performance. Also there is absolutely no space or slop between the upper and lower receiver, it fits like a glove. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
QQexDERA Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 I tend to use real-steel parts where I can because they're either better quality, better designed (or manufactured) or in some case the same price as the WE parts (so why not go real-steel in that case? A prime example is the awful forward assist that WE use. I can pick up a real deal DPMS one for the same price, and it doesnt have a nasty looking screw in the middle of it. The cheap and nasty WE stock tube is another example as well, it weighs three times what a real steel Milspec stock tube weighs. And don't get me started on the dire quality of the WE charging handles... I've got 4 uppers and two lowers, some have some slop in them and some don't (well, none of them do now I've chopped up a couple of Accu-Wedges lol) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PreacherMan Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Using a Dytac Vltor upper receiver, and for whatever reason the barrel is slightly crooked- about a millimeter to the left. Anyone else have this issue?Took me a while to notice after the sights were dialed in, it's more nitpicky than anything else. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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