Jump to content

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 7.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

Posted Images

The odd thing is, it's the same even when there are no BB's in the pmag.

 

Edit:- forgot to mention. I tried the upper without the bolt in it and the pmag still won't sit properly. I'll try to slap the bottom tomorrow, see if that works.

Edited by Habakure
Link to post
Share on other sites

What buffers are people using when also using the RA steel bolt? I believe I have the RA tech buffer set in mine, which includes the buffer, spring, and some metal discs that essentially shorten the length of the buffer tube.

 

Not sure if this is increasing or decreasing my gas efficiency though?

 

This is what's in mine:

post-97566-0-54317700-1408260494_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

For those who run the Maple leaf rubber... What type did you put in???

- For WE/Marui (rubber looks a lot like the stock rubber)

- For AEG

- Hybrid (which states For use with RaTech barrel for WE open bolt which compatible with AEGs)

 

(Source : AST shop)

 

Can't find my way anymore...

Barrel I want to use is ORGA widebore

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fitting Co2 internal in a MSK shell is easy, you need to file the internals a bit, only the part at the botton with the screw hole, you need to take a but one mm off, cut down the bottom plate spring and file the shell a bit for the bulb screw to move freely, it's a 10 minut job.

 

 

And it's easy to change to bulb with a MSK shell, the botton plate comes right off. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

In regards to the maple leaf rubbers, I have had mixed success/failures with them and I am unsure the reasons why on the WE platforms.

 

When I did have a WE M4 and SCAR I never saw the need to upgrade the existing hop rubber since the accuracy was pretty darn good there wasn't any real need to upgrade, but the other platforms did have issues withhop consistency and accuracy issues.

 

My first install was a 70 shore Maple leaf on on an WE PMC with an RA tech barrel and 0.25gs.  It had some good shot to shot consistency.  This AK shot 460fps on .25g at 18*C

 

I installed another one a 70 shore on a stock WE PMC with stock barrel on 0.25g.  What was strange was that the first round would hop high, 2nd round would hop low, and subsequent rounds would be shooting straight.  I switched to the 0.28g and problem seems to be minimised.  On this AK, on 0.28g it was shooting 400fps at 8*C

 

I installed one on a VFC M4 with a 10" on 0.25g, again no problems, accuracy was fantastic given the barrel was shorter than 10" at was outputting at 380fps at 10*C, and I had a magnifier on.  I went to install another one onto another VFC M4, both 10" and both shooting around 360-380fps on 0.25g.

 

I went to install an 80 shore Maple leaf on a Stock WE G36E barrel.  Using Iron sights I couldn't see the fluctuations but as soon as I scoped it, the WE G39E had the same consistency issue with the maple leaf.  I tried another tightbore barrel and had the same issue.  I changed ammo to 0.28g and it still occurred, so I found a hard standard hop rubber and yeah accuracy and consistency went back up.  The FPS on this rifle at 10*C is around 430fps.

 

So I am a bit unsure what is happening.  The instability, as a theory could be caused by high FPS.  Anyone see this issue on their rifles?

 

Funny thing is the A+ GBB hop rubbers of the times I have used them in Marui/WE guns, have dropped FPS and produced erratic hop.  However, Putting the A+ hop rubbers in converted VFC -> VSR, the A+ rubber seems to work very well.  The design of the A+ rubber is very similar to the Maple leaf, except for the drop in FPS on the WE platforms.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pro tip;

 

If you have some wobble between upper and lower on WE M4 or HK416, you can install an RS Accurizing Wedge with some modification. It's like 5 bucks or something.

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receiver-hardware/accu-wedges/ar-15-m16-accu-wedge-prod16662.aspx

 

accu-wedge-for-ar15ar10-type-weapons__91

 

Cut off all of the lower rounded base and just leave the back-edge lip. The WE M4 trigger box blocks the lower rounded part so it won't be possible to close the upper and lower if it is left in place. Maybe pad below with 1-2 layers of duct tape if necessary for some extra friction lock.

 

My WE M4 just went from slight wobble to close to zero.

 

Hellz to the yeahz!

 

EDIT:

 

OK I went back into mine to try and fix the last bit of wobble and I made a mistake. First mistake was working without proper light :P

Second mistake is I cut my wedge short, because there is a gap at the back where it kind of seated further down than I thought and it wasn't working properly.

So, you need to cut the wedge like this, and then modify the height from the base as necessary, i.e. cut off more if it sticks up too much;

 

accuwedge_mod.png

 

Cut along the vertical black line and removed the crossed out part.

Just make sure it's fat enough at the bottom to fit snuggly in the hole in the rear of the lower, I think that will give you the best fit.

 

I will buy another one when I get a chance and try to make it right.

For now I just put back in some of what I cut off.

 

You can also put a layer or two of electrical tape on the "locking block" at the rear of the upper, like this;

 

we_m4_tape.png

 

I use both now until I can get a new wedge.

 

Still just a tiny bit of play, but I wonder if it's not coming from the front pin rather than the back.

 

Oh well. Close enough ? :o

 

My new motto in life ^^

Or so my therapist says ;)

Edited by NonEx
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

AEG shim and a needle file?  All thats required is to enlarge the AEG shim hole a bit.

 

If you want to trim the excess, AEG shim, needle file and a Dremel.

 

Put the Shim on a screw driver pointing vertically,  put a dremel with a cutting disc/grinding stone.  Fire up the dremel and allow the disc/stone to spin the shim, while also allow the disc to apply some downward pressure from the disc.

 

What this does is it spins the shim, while grinding downwards.  The spinning of the shim acts like a lathe to ensure all sides of the shim are grinded down equally to the appropriate radius on all sides.  You can do this to decrease/trim the diameter of most circular components without the use of a lathe or a fixed drill.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.