Habakure Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 So, slap the *albatross* of the mag and all is good? I like the sound of that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted August 16, 2014 Report Share Posted August 16, 2014 Same problem as with the real gun, the bolt need to be able to push the BB's or 5.56 ammo down a bit, so underload the mag by one or 2 BB's, that way the mag seats properly and you don't F up BB's in the mag or break the nozzle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) The odd thing is, it's the same even when there are no BB's in the pmag. Â Edit:- forgot to mention. I tried the upper without the bolt in it and the pmag still won't sit properly. I'll try to slap the bottom tomorrow, see if that works. Edited August 17, 2014 by Habakure Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OriginUK Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 What buffers are people using when also using the RA steel bolt? I believe I have the RA tech buffer set in mine, which includes the buffer, spring, and some metal discs that essentially shorten the length of the buffer tube. Â Not sure if this is increasing or decreasing my gas efficiency though? Â This is what's in mine: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Siavash Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 (edited) I had the heavier bolt and buffer set, Found out that it kills on gas, so bad that after 10 rounds it struggles to shoot, so i went back to factory bolt and kept the buffer, now it shoots fine.. Edited August 18, 2014 by Siavash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OriginUK Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 I've heard people in the US say they're using steel bolts and real steel H2 buffers (same weight as the ra-tech), and still manage 60 rounds per fill of gas? Must be the heat... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Siavash Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 Probably, cus over there its close to 25+C, we never will see this here lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted August 19, 2014 Report Share Posted August 19, 2014 I use a RS plastic carbine buffer in my M639 carbine build (An original 60's one, no less). Kick is pretty good and I haven't had any issues with gas consumption. I think they still use plastic buffers for some AR-15 types so it might be worth looking into those. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OriginUK Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Just thought I'd leave this here... Â 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
QQexDERA Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Loving those AAC trademarks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 I like those MSK "PMAGs" more. Makes me want to sell off my RS PMAG shelled WE CO2 magazines and buy some more of those  Anyone know if WE CO2 M4 mag internals fit in the MSK mag shells? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vilerk Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 The internals would fit, but you'd have to unscrew the baseplate retainer assembly every time you'd change the CO2 capsule. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OriginUK Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Loving those AAC trademarks On the bolt too  1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian24 Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 just love that replica!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
QQexDERA Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) Arghhhhh! Why do companies do this? They got the trades bang on, but there's too many forward assist notches in the bolt!  (OCD time) Edited August 23, 2014 by QQexDERA Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 For extra forward assistiness Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OriginUK Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Hah, there is one more off camera I think, not that you'd be able to tell unless you removed the bolt...and somehow knew how many their should be  Like NonEx said; extra forward assistiness! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
QQexDERA Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) My forward assistiness goes to 11! [/spinalTap] Edited August 23, 2014 by QQexDERA Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian24 Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 For those who run the Maple leaf rubber... What type did you put in??? - For WE/Marui (rubber looks a lot like the stock rubber) - For AEG - Hybrid (which states For use with RaTech barrel for WE open bolt which compatible with AEGs) Â (Source : AST shop) Â Can't find my way anymore... Barrel I want to use is ORGA widebore Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Fitting Co2 internal in a MSK shell is easy, you need to file the internals a bit, only the part at the botton with the screw hole, you need to take a but one mm off, cut down the bottom plate spring and file the shell a bit for the bulb screw to move freely, it's a 10 minut job.   And it's easy to change to bulb with a MSK shell, the botton plate comes right off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 In regards to the maple leaf rubbers, I have had mixed success/failures with them and I am unsure the reasons why on the WE platforms.  When I did have a WE M4 and SCAR I never saw the need to upgrade the existing hop rubber since the accuracy was pretty darn good there wasn't any real need to upgrade, but the other platforms did have issues withhop consistency and accuracy issues.  My first install was a 70 shore Maple leaf on on an WE PMC with an RA tech barrel and 0.25gs. It had some good shot to shot consistency. This AK shot 460fps on .25g at 18*C  I installed another one a 70 shore on a stock WE PMC with stock barrel on 0.25g. What was strange was that the first round would hop high, 2nd round would hop low, and subsequent rounds would be shooting straight. I switched to the 0.28g and problem seems to be minimised. On this AK, on 0.28g it was shooting 400fps at 8*C  I installed one on a VFC M4 with a 10" on 0.25g, again no problems, accuracy was fantastic given the barrel was shorter than 10" at was outputting at 380fps at 10*C, and I had a magnifier on. I went to install another one onto another VFC M4, both 10" and both shooting around 360-380fps on 0.25g.  I went to install an 80 shore Maple leaf on a Stock WE G36E barrel. Using Iron sights I couldn't see the fluctuations but as soon as I scoped it, the WE G39E had the same consistency issue with the maple leaf. I tried another tightbore barrel and had the same issue. I changed ammo to 0.28g and it still occurred, so I found a hard standard hop rubber and yeah accuracy and consistency went back up. The FPS on this rifle at 10*C is around 430fps.  So I am a bit unsure what is happening. The instability, as a theory could be caused by high FPS. Anyone see this issue on their rifles?  Funny thing is the A+ GBB hop rubbers of the times I have used them in Marui/WE guns, have dropped FPS and produced erratic hop. However, Putting the A+ hop rubbers in converted VFC -> VSR, the A+ rubber seems to work very well. The design of the A+ rubber is very similar to the Maple leaf, except for the drop in FPS on the WE platforms. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 (edited) Pro tip;  If you have some wobble between upper and lower on WE M4 or HK416, you can install an RS Accurizing Wedge with some modification. It's like 5 bucks or something. http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receiver-hardware/accu-wedges/ar-15-m16-accu-wedge-prod16662.aspx   Cut off all of the lower rounded base and just leave the back-edge lip. The WE M4 trigger box blocks the lower rounded part so it won't be possible to close the upper and lower if it is left in place. Maybe pad below with 1-2 layers of duct tape if necessary for some extra friction lock.  My WE M4 just went from slight wobble to close to zero.  Hellz to the yeahz!  EDIT:  OK I went back into mine to try and fix the last bit of wobble and I made a mistake. First mistake was working without proper light Second mistake is I cut my wedge short, because there is a gap at the back where it kind of seated further down than I thought and it wasn't working properly. So, you need to cut the wedge like this, and then modify the height from the base as necessary, i.e. cut off more if it sticks up too much;   Cut along the vertical black line and removed the crossed out part. Just make sure it's fat enough at the bottom to fit snuggly in the hole in the rear of the lower, I think that will give you the best fit.  I will buy another one when I get a chance and try to make it right. For now I just put back in some of what I cut off.  You can also put a layer or two of electrical tape on the "locking block" at the rear of the upper, like this;   I use both now until I can get a new wedge.  Still just a tiny bit of play, but I wonder if it's not coming from the front pin rather than the back.  Oh well. Close enough ?  My new motto in life ^^ Or so my therapist says Edited August 28, 2014 by NonEx 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Speaking of making things tighter. I know it's in this thread somewhere but *fruitcage* me if I am gonna look through it all. Â What are the AEG shims that work for tightening up the bolt stop lever? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 (edited) AEG shim and a needle file? All thats required is to enlarge the AEG shim hole a bit.  If you want to trim the excess, AEG shim, needle file and a Dremel.  Put the Shim on a screw driver pointing vertically, put a dremel with a cutting disc/grinding stone. Fire up the dremel and allow the disc/stone to spin the shim, while also allow the disc to apply some downward pressure from the disc.  What this does is it spins the shim, while grinding downwards. The spinning of the shim acts like a lathe to ensure all sides of the shim are grinded down equally to the appropriate radius on all sides. You can do this to decrease/trim the diameter of most circular components without the use of a lathe or a fixed drill. Edited August 28, 2014 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Yes but what type of AEG shims ? I know nothing about them but I assume there are different sizes and materials. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.