Jump to content

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


Recommended Posts

So you're saying you have too much money, or what ? :o

 No no, of course not. I'm broke as can be. Spending $100 on a pistol already seems expensive to me. I need to really save up if I plan on upgrading my M4 though. I love the recoil, that's why I never went back to AEGs. Bane is a cause of great distress. You may have misinterpret.

Edited by NightFury
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 7.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

Posted Images

Here's some info if you want to service/replace o-rings in your WE GEN2 STANAG M4 or MSK magazine.

 

My MSK magazines had some minor leaks out of the box and I know the OEM o-rings are pretty poor quality and usually dry as dirt out of the box.

So I took a magazine appart, measured the original o-rings as best I could and placed an order with my favourite o-rings source, SimplyBearings in the UK.

 

Got the o-rings today and installed. Works fine. Figured I would share :)

 

Reference image

we_m4_msk_oring_layout.jpg
 

Comparison image

we_m4_msk_oring_layout2.jpg
 

 

1. Main valve outer o-ring
Material: Nitrile
Specification: Metric
Cross section: 1.0mm
Inner diameter: 6.5mm
Outer diameter: 8.5mm

Source: http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80413/1mm+Section+6.5mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html

 

2. Main valve middle o-ring
Material: Nitrile
Specification: Metric
Cross section: 1.5mm
Inner diameter: 3.0mm
Outer diameter: 6.0mm

Source: http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80505/1.5mm+Section+3mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html

 

3. Main valve inner o-ring
Material: Nitrile
Specification: Metric
Cross section: 1.5mm
Inner diameter: 3.0mm
Outer diameter: 6.0mm

Source: http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80505/1.5mm+Section+3mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html

 

4. Main body cross-screw holder screw o-ring
Material: Nitrile
Specification: Metric
Cross section: 1.0mm
Inner diameter: 4.0mm (original appears to be 4.5mm)
Outer diameter: 6.0mm (original appears to be 6.5mm)

Source (4.0mm ID): http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80408/1mm+Section+4mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html
Source (4.5mm ID): http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80409/1mm+Section+4.5mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html

 

5. Main body joint o-ring
Material: Nitrile
Specification: Metric
Cross section: 1.0mm
Inner diameter: 23.0mm (original appears to be 25.0mm)
Outer diameter: 25.0mm (original appears to be 27.0mm)

Source (23.0mm ID): http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80446/1mm+Section+23mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html
Source (25.0mm ID): http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80450/1mm+Section+25mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html

 

6. Main body cross-screw o-ring
Material: Nitrile
Specification: Metric
Cross section: 2.0mm
Inner diameter: 4.5mm
Outer diameter: 8.5mm

Source: http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80755/2mm+Section+4.5mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html

 

7. Fill valve o-ring
Material: Nitrile
Specification: Metric
Cross section: 1.5mm
Inner diameter: 3.0mm
Outer diameter: 6.0mm

Source: http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80505/1.5mm+Section+3mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html

 

I replaced the o-rings in my MSK magazines with the sizes I bought and can confirm it works well.
Checked for leaks by sound and by submersing magazine in water. No leaks. Full load of 140 PSI ASG GreenGas at 24C room temp.

Also test fired 1½ magazines from 2 different magazines. Worked well!

 

So even though I got a few sizes off, the ones I got works.

 

Hope this helps someone out :o

Edited by NonEx
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's another tip for you guys.

 

How to get the bolt-lock on the WE M4 to make 100% contact between bolt and bolt-catch!

 

So I got some AEG gearbox shims home yesterday to tighten up the fit of my WE M4 bolt-lock lever.

 

On my specific WE M4 I used one 0.1mm and one 0.15mm shim. For a total of 0.25mm tighter fit. The decrease in wobble from side to side is very noticable.

It's pretty much as tight as it can get now without locking up the bolt-lock function.

 

It worked well enough but I still noticed the bolt was not engaging 100% as well as it could.

 

Previously I have cut a coil on the bolt-lock lever spring, and filed off some material on the inside of the bolt lock itself, as per other guides.

 

Source for AEG shims fix. Kudos to kullwarrior for this. Not sure if it's originally by him but this is where I got it from;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpL3ESLa1wU

 

Sources for bolt-lock mod.

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=113532
http://www.gasguns.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=7558

 

 

So I thought what else could I do to make that dang bolt-stop get 100% contact with the bolt.

Well, the only thing left to modify is to make the bolt-stop levers on the magazine push the bolt-stop up the last bit of the way.
How to do this?

 

I think it was attempted from the other way around before. By adding material to the bottom interface edge of the bolt-catch itself. However that didn't last when in use, IIRC.

 

Well, turns out the bolt-lock plate that pushes on the bolt-lock is limited by the internal structure of the magazine design for how high up the tip of that plate can go.

 

So I looked at the mechanics, and the angles, and figured if I filed off some material here and there I could make the tip of the plate push up mabybe 0.5-1mm extra.

This would mean 100% contact. I think this is an original idea by me :P
Haven't seen it anywhere else so far.

 

So, this is how I did it;

 

Reference image

 

we_bolt_1.jpg

 

1. File down edge 1 so that it gets more narrow.
2. Round off and reduce edge 2 so that it does not interfere with magazine body edge.
3. Round off and reduce edge 3 so that it does not interfere with magazine internal edge.
4. Round off and reduce edge 4 so that it does not interfere with magazine internal edge.

 

Reference image

 

we_bolt_2.jpg

 

5. File down the inner lip of the feeding lip. This will otherwise hinder the magazine follower to push the inner bolt-lever actuator arm enough to maximize the push up of the plate.

 

Results

 

Comparison without shell

 

we_bolt_3.jpg

 

Comparison with shell

 

we_bolt_4.jpg

 

And yes, dry firing mode still works fine since I don't touch that edge/surface with this mod.

 

Hopefully you can see in the comparison images what has happened. It's minimal, but very noticable!

If the steps are not apparent in the description above, you should be able to figure it out once you look at it yourself.

I can say that with all of the above mods, my WE M4 bolt lock is now att 99% locking contact. When the bolt is locked back, even if I push the bolt lock as far in as it can go, the additional movement is minimal, like 0.25mm maybe.

It can't get any better than this.

 

Test fired 10 shots with one of the mags and works 100% now.

 

So yeah, I think with these steps no one should ever have to have a dodgy bolt lock on a WE M4 again :D

 

The only other thing that can possibly be a problem is if your buffer tube is on to tight and the "reaction time/space" of the bolt lock is too short/narrow. In that case back out the buffer tube one rotation and try again.

 

EDIT: Might have found a minor drawback to this. It feels like the bolt has a little bit more resistant now to ride over the bolt stop lever in the magazine, but not sure how much it affects things, if anything.

Edited by NonEx
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've fitted these bolt catch plates, removed the blank firing switch and as a result have more of a chance to engage.

 

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/t-s-c-bolt-catch-plates-for-we-m4-gbb-series-magazine.html#.VEGeURbgVwQ

 

Now I haven't shimmed mine since it seems sticky already. What I might do is try to preload the follower springs a bit since they seem a big soft at the end of the run so they don't really lift the catch with authority.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had those too. They are just steel (I think, or better metal) no differense in size though from what I could tell. Plus TSC sucks balls :P

 

The lack of force from the follower pushing is more to do with the wobble/play in the bolt catch making it offset rather than lack of actual force to engage.

Edited by NonEx
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's another tip for you guys.

 

How to get the bolt-lock on the WE M4 to make 100% contact between bolt and bolt-catch!

 

So I got some AEG gearbox shims home yesterday to tighten up the fit of my WE M4 bolt-lock lever.

 

On my specific WE M4 I used one 0.1mm and one 0.15mm shim. For a total of 0.25mm tighter fit. The decrease in wobble from side to side is very noticable.

It's pretty much as tight as it can get now without locking up the bolt-lock function.

 

Hey look! XD  I came to the same remedy for the WE SCAR ages ago but it seems like the thread was lost when ArniesAirsoft forums got rebooted.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I left 3 magazines fully gased up overnight after changing the orings. One standing up, one laying down and one standing upside down. All still tight and full of gas.

 

Win! :D

 

Oh and the little extra resistense from the bolt catch plate sticking up doesn't seem all that bad after checking it out again. Bolt locks like a champ right now! :D

Edited by NonEx
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

 

Anyone here manage to make their own low-powered "fixed" NPAS bolt / floating valve for the WE M4?

 

I had a spare bolt and an NPAS that I installed but I am not really happy with the performance nor consistency of it and wanna try making it a permanent fixed 350 FPS bolt.

 

I know the mechanics of how. I think I recall someone posting about putting spacers on the floating valve or whatever but forget the specifics.

 

Any tips of references are welcome.

 

Thanks!

 

EDIT: Can also follow up on my post about the magazines. Played with the M4 and my 5 MSK gas magazines this weekend. Performed flawlessly indoors at around 16-18C. Got all shots off and full lock back as well with my bolt-stop mods. No complaints from me! :D

Edited by NonEx
Link to post
Share on other sites

http://www.milspecsolutions.co.uk/upgrade-options/fg-airsoft-116/fg-airsoft-low-flow-system-4-for-we-open-bolt-rifles-and-vfc.html

 

That's what I was talking about. The disks drop the fps by 20%, 15% and 10% so you should be good to go. Reports are theyre very consistent too! 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Will post back to let you guys know!

 

Are my eyes decieving me or do they look stackable? So you can add or substract as needed to lower FPS more or less?

 

but but, they don't have an estimator to ship to Canada :(.. e-mailed. Might get these if they are cheaper then the NPAS here ($19.00 CDN).

 

I don't think you can add or subtract, you can only put on one of the reduction rates, either be 10/15/20%.

 

Let me know how these go for you!

Edited by BioRage
Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the way it works is the actual hole is smaller depending which ring you put in. I dont think theyre stackable! Doesn't look like it in my eyes at least! 

 

 

but but, they don't have an estimator to ship to Canada :(.. e-mailed. Might get these if they are cheaper then the NPAS here ($19.00 CDN).

 

I don't think you can add or subtract, you can only put on one of the reduction rates, either be 10/15/20%.

 

Let me know how these go for you!

 

If they don't ship to Canada I don't mind playing the middle man if you'd like. PM me! 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, so managed to set my hop and npas and all seems well.

However, if I dry fire the gun, and let the bolt lock to the rear, sometimes it doesn't lock the whole way back, but sticks.

I have to apply quite a bit of force to the charging handle, it moves back a touch, the bolt catch locks it, and I can release it as per normal.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Problem solved.

 

FYI the OEM pin is ~2.75mm in diameter and ~13.3mm in lenght. I had my WE HK416 laying around so took it out from there and checked.

 

Since my hole had widened a bit, hence the pin failing out and being lost, I took a chance and bought a roll-pin assortment box.

 

The 3mm one fit nicely after working it back and forth a bit, taking care not to break the sides of the pin holder thingy. But I had to cut it to lenght with a dremmel, no biggie. Of course the cut side went towards the right-hand side so it's not being pushed into the pin holes.

 

I managed to lose the friggen spring for the bolt-catch while working, but after 30 minutes of searching I found it stuck to the grip of one of my scissors, how in the hell? :o

 

Anyways, if it was locking 99.9% before it is now at 99.999%. When I lock it back and push on the bolt-lock it literally cannot move any further into place.

 

And the chances of this roll-pin getting lost are about 0.001% :D

Edited by NonEx
Link to post
Share on other sites

And mine is having to be sent back to the supplier.

bolt sticks back on empty mag no matter what. Bolt catch won't release as bolt isn't far enough back. Have to flip the gun over and use both hands on the charging handle to pull the bolt far enough back.

Edited by thatguy404
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.