WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

[swatti]

Whoah! Just read thru the topic, yes, ALL pages. Some interesting stuff here.

 

Anyways, having a bit of byers remorse here.

 

GHK vs WE : gas-efficancy.

 

You see, I'm using refillable 12g Co2 capsules and filling those in the field.

Fitting the capsules in the mag itself and filling them thru the tightening cap I can get approx 8-10g of Co2 in the mag.

 

This does get me a full 30rd dump and bolt lock but the final shots are very lazy.

 

It seems the GHK is much better in this regard.

[Alias1983]

We v2 mags are good at one thing now. They are tanks just keep them wet and you are good. They can take Hi pressure gas like mapp gas in deep cold that co2 struggles.

 

Now the new gasses are coming out, the other gas systems have stupid parts that need to be stronger. We mag parts are strong, all but the co2 valves, I no like them at all

[swatti]

We Co2-mags are unique in a way that they don't use nailon-based pressure-locked seals, instead they use regular O-rings held in place by the assembly and the valve is simply pushed past them to open... The design is pure brilliance as there is only two O-rings, both replaceable by regular O-rings.

 

AKA : put some effort in and these mags are leak-proof, forever.

 

Problem is, most ppl are incapable of going to nearby hardware store and buy those O-rings, instead, they cry about how bad their mags are on various forums.

[Alias1983]

Yeah sure.

 

http://www.evike.com/products/38025/

 

That green part is the part that's junk.

I did the oring mods, and even the guide I read on gasgunsinfo years back on removing the green thing for the oring an I never got them to work.

 

The person that posted the info never got them to seal properly either. Then the project was moot with the advent of the v2 gg mags and better gas options.

[jkpics]

CustomGuns.dk for replacement CO2 mag O-rings, CNC'ed in Denmark of the highest grade Nitrile rubber, not cheap but they work.

[Bloodsword]

Cnc'd o-rings? You sure they are an improvement compared to moulded ones rubbers and o-rings have many variations, one can surely manage well with stock items from a proper shop.

[jkpics]

Have a good look at the green "o-ring" and get back to me.

[Alias1983]

The green oring is a nylon and love to just fail. If I have to put money into mags to make them work right then they are worthless to me when mapp gas works better in the same temps that co2 should work in.

 

We makes good gg mags.

[NonEx]

Anyone thinking about checking out the Angry Gun VLTOR MUR WE M4 upper? Kinda interested but don't know if the MUR uppers are still "hipp"

Edited June 16, 2015 by NonEx

[BioRage]

For the price of the AG one you can get a RS one and mod it. Ahha.

 

 

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=122347

[NonEx]

Yeah because buying real AR receivers is so easy here. And modding it requires a small machine shop. Thanks for the tip though!

[jkpics]

Have a WE M4 with a Prime MUR upper in the shop, put a OB kit in it, it's a nice gun now  

[BioRage]

Yeah because buying real AR receivers is so easy here. And modding it requires a small machine shop. Thanks for the tip though!

 

haha didn't know if It was easy or not in Sweden.

 

They are about 300 for the MUR-3 here in Canada + 13% tax, the USD to CAD rate at least 1:1.24 is more or less the same, if not more.

 

Pics, jk?

[jkpics]

Prime MUR gun in the shop

 

Something else we are working on

[Danke]

Four years I've been at this. A war at the mag catch. A war with no battles, no monuments... only casualties.

 

Today, I swapped in a Daniel Defense catch and spring and removed the Angry Gun recoil kit.

 

Once again the bolt locks back on empty. 

[NonEx]

Mag catch, or bolt catch?

[Danke]

Mag catch. The stock one just had a hairs worth of wear. 

[Alias1983]

The stock ping pong paddle is slimmer than the hole in the body. Aeg shims of proper size should do the trick 99% of the time to take up excess space.

 

I never got it to work, I account it to my recovers were off spec or some .

[Danke]

The fit of mine was fine. If I shimmed it the catch would just bind.

 

It's a weak spring, tripping a tiny lever in a less than ideal location with a mag that feeds BBs to catch a heavy chunk of metal.

[NonEx]

PTS Rainier Arms Raptor ambi charging handle, certainly not a drop in fit on the WE (PTW / VFC version).

 

First thing that happened when I checked it out of the packaging is one of the roll pins fell out of the handle

 

So mission #1. Replacing the roll pins with new solid ones.

 

Done.

 

Tried installing it in my WE M4 upper. No go, index tabs / ears of handle are too big.

 

OK, started filing those down.

 

Got it to go in.

 

Almost got stuck 2/3rds of the way in the upper when pushing it in... Appears handle is too wide on the sides.

 

OK, filed down the sides a bit. OK, better fit.

 

Next, the spring used for the latches appears to be an RS spring and is very stiff I figured it would eat up the latch notch in the upper in no time with that amount of force on it. So, took it out, indeeds looks like a heavy duty RS spring. Fortunately a normal ball-pen spring is a decent substitute.

 

Now I am at where it drops in, moves kind of freely alone in the upper.

 

But it's still sticking with the bolt in there and the rifle assembled.

 

So yeah

 

But, all in all I like it a lot and so I will do what it takes to make it fit.

 

 

Angry Gun ambi selector. Drop in fit, but as mentioned the notches in the selecter where the detent sits are too sharp/deep so it was almost impossible to rotate.

Smoothened out the notches a bit and it's now at an OK level, seats firmly and clicks, but can be rotated. Might have to do a little more work though.

Also noticable surface rust out of the packaging, had to clean it off and give it a good coat of oil to get it back in shape.

[NonEx]

Handle in place. Still working on fitment...

 

[NonEx]

So my buddy got a second hand WE XM 177 today. It's open bolt but might be a convert.

 

It seems the "headspacing" of the bolt is off. I.e. the inner barrel and hop up assembly ring in the front of the upper is set too far back, causing the bolt to be sticking out 1-2mms too much out the rear of the upper.

 

When closing it, forcefully (because the nozzle is getting jammed into the hop chamber), it does a "pop" and a "click" sound, as the tension from the nozzle is released and the bolt hops back, causing the upper and lower to stick together.

 

Anyways. I guess what needs to be done is push the hop up seating ring forward a bit. But if I recall correctly that is basically hammered in place. So any tips on how the heck you can move it forward ?

 

Alright. Just got done working on this WE XM.

 

My suspicion was correct. The hop unit was seating too far back in the chamber.

 

We verified with my bolt and a brand new open bolt kit hop up housing. Same results.

 

Basically, it would appear the upper barrel cut outs were out of spec because it was untouched from the factory. I.e. no paint removed of filings etc. Very odd, but hey, it's WE...

 

So we cut out aluminum pieces from some left over Glock serial number plates and put in the cut-outs for the barrel locking lugs in the upper, and voila, after having the bolt seat about 0.25-0.5mm into the upper (rear view) it works perfectly.

 

Also after we did it we verified the other parts worked as expected. And you can see like 0.1mm of the hop unit from the front of the ejection port, with the bolt forward, and it looked pretty much exactly the same on mine and his after the mod.

 

And the two halves can of course be closed and opened without issues.

 

Also fixed his sub-par bolt lock lever by supergluing on a piece of, again, Glock serial plate to the bottom of the bolt lock. Works perfectly now in conjunction with the AEG ship mods and a fresh real roll-pin.

 

Now I got 9 WE M4 GEN2 NAM style mags left to replace the o-rings on

 

Also his bolt was getting stuck to the rear when the charging handle was cocked. So handle and bolt locked back. If we slid the handle forward, bolt went after. So, at the top, of the front of the handle, there is a little hump. Had to sand that down to make it work smoothly.

 

So yeah, we were both pretty pleased with the results after having the gun appart like 4 times

Edited June 22, 2015 by NonEx

[NonEx]

Well my dreams of having a secondary complete upper for my WE M4 were crushed by WEs lack of quality control. lol.

 

Pin holes are too small (0.25mm) and they are offset towards the rear by about 0.2mm... Da fuq? Upper also has a completely different finish than my current one so it doesn't match. 

 

Guess the holes are too small due to worn out tools and offset due to cock-eyed machinist mounting it for drilling

 

I tried filing them and fitting them but the tolerances required and precision to get a good fit to the lower are just too tight for me to manage to fix this.

 

Whutevers. Gonna slap my new rail system on my current gun and see how it feels and maybe end up building an entirely new rifle.

 

DYTAC Giessele SMR MK1 rail is not a drop in fit on WE M4. Barrel nut sits too far back so the pin holes won't line up properly. Fixed with two heavy duty o-rings. But the barrel nut is also undersized making the rail sit sloppy on it. Fixed by a layer of black electrical tape. Also the cutouts in the barrel nut for the cross bolts are too loose and can be fixed by putting a few layers of "teflon tape" in the grooves. And finally the ejection port cover rod is too long and has to be cut down by about 4mm.

[NonEx]

Just got done mounting the new rail. With the fixes above it works 100%. Solid as a rock!

Spacing the grooves for the cross pins tighter with material is key to this.

 

Slapped on a magpul handstop kit but not a fan of how it feels. The angle is too weird for my arm/hand. But it looks so good

 

Gonna put on a DYTAC stubby grip instead I guess.

 

Had issues getting the timing of my muzzle brake right. No matter what I did it was offset like 90-180 degrees. I was like WTF? Then I realized the Angry Gun wirecutter barrel kit could just be flipped over so that solved it

[jkpics]

The receiver holes shrink a bit do to the coloring treatment, run a 10mm HHS drill true them by hand and they are fine, the real problem is that WE sells the loose uppers and lowers straight from anodizing and they really need a going over with a drill and the lower needs the fake pins installed, the upper needs a 10mm drill and I think a 2.5mm for the pin hole for the force feeder.

 

And anodizing is a biatch to get the same from batch to batch, only the really high volume RS gun makers gets it perfect, like Colt and FN, but if you buy a complete upper it woulkd most likely not match your lower perfectly, if upper and lower needs to match 100% (OCD much) you need to paint them like the Haley JACK rifle.