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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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I've done a complete check:

 

All the o-ring: OK

All is lubed correctly: OK

Hop-up: OK

Magazine: OK

Test with 2 nozzle: OK

 

Problem: again... <_<

 

Midma

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I remember some people had problems when they cocked the charging handle, the trigger would cock but the firing pin would not. I am now having this problem and I had to stick my finger in lower receiver and cock it manually.

 

I looked back but could not find a resolution. Are there any recommendations for fixing this issue?

 

Regards,

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Again , check the two small screws holding down part#59 (the plate surrounding the firing pin) if these two screws become loose they can cause severe misfiring

 

They're OK.

 

Midma

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Midma, this may or may not help you, but I had the same problem your are describing about your gun. When I would fire the bbs would come out of the barrel and land 10-15ft in front of me with virtually no power. This happened right after I replaced the original green micro dot hop up. I noticed that the new hop ups I purchased were slightly shorter, I guessing WE tried to compensate to complaints about bbs flying straight up.

 

What I found out was that my nozzle upon returning to battery would push the next bb to fire beyond the hop up sleeve. This caused the chamber to not be sealed by the bb and most of the gas propulsion going right by it. I rectified the problem by grinding down the tip of the nozzle a couple of milimeters so it would load correctly. Just remember not to grind down too much or the nozzle won't make a seal with the black rubber hop up sleeve. If you decide to do this a tip would be grind down a little bit at a time and and place it back in the bolt carrier and see if there is improvement. Repeat until your satisfied.

 

Hope that helps God bless.

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Midma, this may or may not help you, but I had the same problem your are describing about your gun. When I would fire the bbs would come out of the barrel and land 10-15ft in front of me with virtually no power. This happened right after I replaced the original green micro dot hop up. I noticed that the new hop ups I purchased were slightly shorter, I guessing WE tried to compensate to complaints about bbs flying straight up.

 

What I found out was that my nozzle upon returning to battery would push the next bb to fire beyond the hop up sleeve. This caused the chamber to not be sealed by the bb and most of the gas propulsion going right by it. I rectified the problem by grinding down the tip of the nozzle a couple of milimeters so it would load correctly. Just remember not to grind down too much or the nozzle won't make a seal with the black rubber hop up sleeve. If you decide to do this a tip would be grind down a little bit at a time and and place it back in the bolt carrier and see if there is improvement. Repeat until your satisfied.

 

Hope that helps God bless.

 

Yes I came to the same conclusion regarding this issue, that the bb was chambered beyond the hop. I like your method of filing down the nozzle to fine tune the "headspace", alsp similar concept to what tuners do on engine piston rings. However, it still does not address the problem of the inconsistent linear displacement of the bb, between nozzle end and hop rubber which ultimately makes such adjustment a temporary fix.

Edited by newcomer

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Cephas & newcomer: Thanks, I'll try again what you say. ;)

 

But I don't think it is that. Even with the 500fps, it do that. But I'll try.

 

Midma

 

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Cephas & newcomer: Thanks, I'll try again what you say. ;)

 

But I don't think it is that. Even with the 500fps, it do that. But I'll try.

 

Midma

 

My new WE M4 GBB was also not working "good".

 

I checked all o-rings, installed "the stabilizer" (wasn't easy to be honnest, ruined part 37 o-ring etc).

I disassembled the upper receiver, barrel / HopUp Unit / Nozzle Assembly.

I found small parts of broken BB(s) in a few places (the nozzle-guide-rod-housing, and in the nozzle-moving-valve area).

Also I had the impression the BB-chamber (part 117) wasn't fitted OK, I removed it, cleaned it from excess silicon oil etc.

After cleaning the whole chebang, some lubricating, re-assembled everything: now it's shooting OK (knock on wood).

 

If you are "the handy kind of person" perhaps you could try this.

 

But if this is about the "lemon" you got, I would arrange something with AB so you get a new gun since that is what you paid for after all.

 

(Of course, I hope "the new one" will be OK....)

 

Good luck!

 

 

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Current upgrades:

TSC Anti-Rotational Pin (Type 2)

TSC CNC Aluminum Trigger Guard (Type 1)

Gas Steel Nozzle (480fps)

Valve Guide Rod Stabilizer

 

WEM4_Parts1.jpg

WEM4_Parts2.jpg

 

Next upgrades:

(All Co2 internal systems)

TSC CNC Steel Hammer

TSC CNC Skeleton Trigger

 

Took me like 15mins to install the TSC CNC Aluminum Trigger Guard (Type 1). Since the lower receiver is made from pot-metal you have to gently FORCE it in, use your thumbs don't use hammer or you'll brake the pin hole

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Is there any trick knocking out the bolt that holds the bolt catch?

 

It sits so darn tight in there and I don't wanna break anything. And to make things worse, it's so close

to the reciever that you can hardly reach it.

 

Knocking it out towards the muzzle/barrel/front, sight?

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I have another problem.

 

The Valve Guide Rod Stabilizer doesn't hold in place, after some shot, it move and block the two holes: I can't shot if these holes are blocked.

 

May I glue the Stabilizer with the bolt carrier?

 

Midma

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I guess you installed it wrong. The plain sides need to point upwards/downwards.

 

another update:

Just put the steel charging handle and, what a big frickin surpirse, I barely moves. Put grease on it and it doesn't move any better.

 

So another part that sucks. The only useful part is that stabilizer, the the remaining 65 parts are all complete ######.

:(

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I had to sand my stabilizer down since the inside of the bolt carrier wasn't milled or cnc'd correctly...ie, the stabilizer won't go all the way in. After that, its still a little to thick...the trigger assembly part with the bearing can't move properly...good lord....I'm gonna have to do more sanding....

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Somegirls, I encountered that same problem when I replaced my charging handle with a modified rs charging handle. The tunnel which is the charging handle travels a tad too narrow. So I filed down the areas around the part of the chargng handle that inserts into the slots in the upper reciever.

 

Try putting your charging handle in, it will be tight. If your able insert the handle push it back and forth. Look for areas wear on the handle then file it down. Try and see if that works God bless.

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I guess you installed it wrong. The plain sides need to point upwards/downwards.

 

another update:

Just put the steel charging handle and, what a big frickin surpirse, I barely moves. Put grease on it and it doesn't move any better.

 

So another part that sucks. The only useful part is that stabilizer, the the remaining 65 parts are all complete ######.

:(

 

You can try gluing the stabilizer to the very end of the black tube of the nozzle assembly, not the bolt carrier.

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Knocking it out towards the muzzle/barrel/front, sight?

Have You tried both directions ? I did replace bolt cach on steel one and it was went smooth.

Edited by Nazio

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Have You tried both directions ? I did replace bolt cach on steel one and it was went smooth.

 

The pin is installed from the back and should be punched to the back. It is initially hard to drive out but using the proper pin punch diameter I was able to remove it to replace my bolt stop latch. The pin has serations on the back and should not be forced to come out at the front of the hole.

 

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Sorry to change the topic for a brief moment, but I was looking at purchasing one of these, but it seems like everyone has problems with theirs. Now I know I will have to be doing routine maintenance to it, but is it that bad?

 

Also, what generation M4's do you guys have?

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QUESTION: Has anyone purchased that new LAT #121? You know, the problematic shredding O-ring part? This is the supposed "new and improved" version with a larger "cover" infront of the 0-ring?

 

Well...just wondering how it performed to those that have it installed. I installed mine, and it perfomed less than stellar. Its behaving as though I have a shredded 0-ring. I'm using this in conjuction with the stabilizer piece, so I'm guessing its no really an aligment issue. It acts as though there isn't enough of a seal..

 

Basicaly, its showing the same symptoms as the original stock piece with a mangled 0-ring. Sluggish, slow and eventually dumping all the gas..I might switch back to the stock version and just replace the 0-rings whenever I have too.

 

Anyone esle try this new design?

i ordered one didnt get a chance to put it in yet ill let u know how mine acts

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my Ver3 was only shooting 15m or so when i first got (same with my mates got his the same day), i got rid of the brass nozzel and put a steel one in it and that seem to solve the problem.

 

but yer both my steel nozzels from AB didnt have o-rings and they go fine.

 

300fps steel nozzel shooting @ 440fps

480fps steel nozzel shooting @ 570fps

 

note: coming into winter here bout 18c at mo.

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