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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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Hey guys, I'm new to the forum, I'm from ASC. I had a WE M4 for the past few months now, I've been having A LOT of problems. Leaky mags, #122 o-ring went, nozzel got loose, barrel wobble from loose delta ring, etc etc.

 

Anyways, after fixing all those problems I have another serious problem. First, I've purchased the upgraded o-rings. Anyone notice that there's a lot of resistance from the new #122 o-ring? It appears to be much larger and seals better, but the bolt doesn't move as smoothly, and I find I have to constantly grease it.

 

Anyways, I was firing away last night, ejected the mag and a little

retangular peice of metal fell out, looks like it broke off of something. I

couldn't find where it fell out from. I continued using the gun for several

hours. The gun then stopped firing, I ejected the mag and another retangular

peice of metal fell out which was the exact same looking peice of metal that fell

out before, so I have 2 identical broken peices of metal! Now whenever I pop

a loaded mag in, I pull the trigger and all I get is a slightly "pop" sound

and then nothing happens. Since there are hardly any parts to this gun, I'm

going to assume I broke something from the trigger assembly. Any idea what

part this is? I've looked at the WE manual and I really dont' want to take

the trigger assembly apart, looks complex.

 

From the pictures, the only thing that it looks like is part #59, looks like

the little legs broke off or something. Does that seem plausable? Any idea

why this would happen?

 

thanks guys, I really apprecaite it if you could help me out.

 

thanks,

 

Bryan

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Just in case you didn't already know, Vaseline can eat away rubber seals eventually. As far as I understand it's only necessary to prevent the seal from sticking when creating it only, but it's still something you might want to be wary of. :)

 

 

Yup. Basicaly anything petroleum based will eat at the o-rings and rubbers and stuff...

 

...........................It is only to make sure that the RTV sealant does not stick to the upper when you pull the charging handle away for the first time after it cures....

 

Think cookie sheet and PAM.

 

Auto,

 

Eliminator is spot on, it is probably your valve hammer cover (#59). It should look like this:

 

220_IMG_9298.JPG

 

The two small pieces were probably the two small tabs you see there on the right.

Edited by 4boost

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...........................It is only to make sure that the RTV sealant does not stick to the upper when you pull the charging handle away for the first time after it cures....

 

Think cookie sheet and PAM.

 

Auto,

 

Eliminator is spot on, it is probably your valve hammer cover (#59). It should look like this:

 

220_IMG_9298.JPG

 

The two small pieces were probably the two small tabs you see there on the right.

 

 

Hmmmm, any idea why those peices would have broken off? The guys at horizon said that is very unlikely that part #59 would break.

 

I doubt it makes any difference, but I installed the LAT recoil spring guide the same day it broke. Other than that, I just had the upgraded O-rings.

 

BTW, I used teflon grease, is this ok? If not, what should I be using? If I don't use any grease, the bolt sticks and I have to use the forward assist to push it back into the right position.

 

thanks!

 

Bryan

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Ive broken 2 already.

This piece is junk, already posted fixes and reasons why it breaks.

 

Stock up!!!

 

You will break plenty more.

 

 

 

59bottom.jpg

 

59top.jpg

Edited by rottenotto

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This is a typical part #117 problem.

 

Disassemble your hop-up, check and clean the part #117, re-assemble the hop-up and check that it hold correctly the BB (no need to put the HU chamber back in the body and outer barrel to check).

 

If it's not holding the BB, then you will have to change the #117.

 

Or more likely, he simply lost the tiny metal bb when swapping barrels.

 

No ball bearing, no pressure on the hop rubber - no affect on the bb like he wrote (no matter where it is adjusted.)

 

Also, no pressure on the hop rubber, nothing to hold the BB. Rolls out.

 

#117 does less than people realize. It is the hop that ultimately stops the BB from rolling out.

 

 

 

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Wetti As told to me by William there is a strange thing with the part #59...Almost everybody outside HK broke at least one...My second one(from my spare Trigger Assembly)has already lost one leg and its remaining one is damaged...while no one broke theirs in HK...So where's the problem?

 

Beside this, I received my new barell today. It is supposed to be a 6.02...but when I measured, I readed 6.04 on my caliper...a wrong tool setting in my opinion(it can happens, I'm Lathe driver)..William did not measure the ones he has in stock, since the infos came from WE. So again, a wrong tool setting happen really fast!(I killed a cylinder by 90 mm long on 30mm high once cause I used a wrong tool Decallage...). So beside the "too big" inner diameter(0.02mm are almost nothing) the new hop up seems to be very agressive with BBs up to 0.25g. But seems adapted for 0.27 and higher. Then the BBs flys away(with the 6.08-the stock barell-I was shooting @ 280fps)and do not fly to the sky after 30meters, wich is a good thing.

 

Did anybody measure the inner diameter of the new barell that is actually available?

 

My friend: We have NOT released the 6.02mm chrome-plated barrel yet. I'm not sure what you have in your hands there.... :blink:

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He has the barrel and HU AB recently released. Since nobody knew there was an "oridinary" barrel coming out many people mistakenly bought them because they thought those were the chrome-plated ones.

 

 

 

And no hard feelings there Wetti, I didn't want to insult, bash or attack you personally or your company.

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Ive broken 2 already.

This piece is junk, already posted fixes and reasons why it breaks.

 

Stock up!!!

 

You will break plenty more.

 

Hey Rottenotto can you please tell how you fixed it?did you build it yourself?

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... as for the hop up unit.

 

Have now taken it out and re assembled.

 

Ball bearing is definitely in there and cleaned it all out. Problem is still occuring.

 

Have noticed one thing.

When looking down the barrel (from front) and adjusting the hop up, I can see the obviously change in the bump (hop up rubber) going up and down. (as it should)

 

But when looking at it from the back, All I see is part 117.. adjusting the hop up does not seem to make the hop up potrude past 117 (visually anyway)

 

Could this be the problem? Could my part 117 be simply misaligned or something?

can anyone confirm this visually?

 

stumped.

too much silicone oil?

 

also .. any one used the anti rotational pin upgrades, any practical good besides looking quite cool?

 

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... as for the hop up unit.

 

Have now taken it out and re assembled.

 

Ball bearing is definitely in there and cleaned it all out. Problem is still occuring.

 

Have noticed one thing.

When looking down the barrel (from front) and adjusting the hop up, I can see the obviously change in the bump (hop up rubber) going up and down. (as it should)

 

But when looking at it from the back, All I see is part 117.. adjusting the hop up does not seem to make the hop up potrude past 117 (visually anyway)

 

Could this be the problem? Could my part 117 be simply misaligned or something?

can anyone confirm this visually?

 

stumped.

too much silicone oil?

 

also .. any one used the anti rotational pin upgrades, any practical good besides looking quite cool?

 

 

Part #117 has been known to be defective or easily torn. Try order that part, and while your at it, order some additional spare parts...just in case.

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I've just installed the new trigger unit which I got from AB along with some other stuff. The swap was really easy job. I've also made sure the #59 is screwed in tight. And I've installed the so called "300fps" steel nozzle (which fortunately HAD the o-ring in place). The gun feeds bb's and shoots great, at least indoors. Gotta take it to my work where we have a chrono so I can take some measurements with this steel nozzle. I'm afraid I don't have time to go play with it outdoors this weekend.

 

All in all, my gun seem to work rather perfect (again). I've decided NOT to install the new hop up and barrel that I already received, at least not until there's the actual chrome barrels and new locking-type CO2 internals available. There's been so much bad comments about this new hop (and my old one seems to work good enough).

 

So far my Gen1 gun has these internal upgrades:

- Steel Bolt Stop

- Steel Nozzle Set A ("300fps")

- Nozzle System Stabilizer

- 7075 Aluminum Charging Handle (fits great)

- New trigger unit (first one started to malfunction BADLY)

- CQB inner barrel (old type hop rubber) installed and has some tape around it to keep it from wobbling inside the outer barrel

Edited by Lupus78

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I've just installed the new trigger unit which I got from AB along with some other stuff. The swap was really easy job. I've also made sure the #59 is screwed in tight. And I've installed the so called "300fps" steel nozzle (which fortunately HAD the o-ring in place). The gun feeds bb's and shoots great, at least indoors. Gotta take it to my work where we have a chrono so I can take some measurements with this steel nozzle. I'm afraid I don't have time to go play with it outdoors this weekend.

 

All in all, my gun seem to work rather perfect (again). I've decided NOT to install the new hop up and barrel that I already received, at least not until there's the actual chrome barrels and new locking-type CO2 internals available. There's been so much bad comments about this new hop (and my old one seems to work good enough).

 

So far my Gen1 gun has these internal upgrades:

- Steel Bolt Stop

- Steel Nozzle Set A ("300fps")

- Nozzle System Stabilizer

- 7075 Aluminum Charging Handle (fits great)

- New trigger unit (first one started to malfunction BADLY)

- CQB inner barrel (old type hop rubber) installed and has some tape around it to keep it from wobbling inside the outer barrel

 

 

Good to hear!

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Ive broken 2 already.

This piece is junk, already posted fixes and reasons why it breaks.

 

Stock up!!!

 

You will break plenty more.

 

 

 

59bottom.jpg

 

59top.jpg

 

I just went through 7 pages of your posts and I could not find any information about fixes or causes for this part to fail. Can you please point me in the right direction? Should I just buy another one and reinstall?

 

thanks.

 

Bryan

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I just went through 7 pages of your posts and I could not find any information about fixes or causes for this part to fail. Can you please point me in the right direction? Should I just buy another one and reinstall?

 

thanks.

 

Bryan

the permanent fix would be to buy a marui. JK prob buy a replacement, he said he had gone through many.

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I just went through 7 pages of your posts and I could not find any information about fixes or causes for this part to fail. Can you please point me in the right direction? Should I just buy another one and reinstall?

 

thanks.

 

Bryan

 

Prodigy is right.

 

That was the solution. Buy more!

 

William at Airsoft Buddy originally told me, "You have to buy the whole trigger unit to get this part".

 

And at the time, trigger units were $100.00 (!!!)

 

So,.....I set out to making one. Lots of members helped out with suggestions on how to make one - and suggested different materials, not just steel.

 

I started making one out of carbon fiber.

 

But then, William gave in, and started stocking the covers separately. So I bought a half dozen. They are inexpensive.

 

THE FIX was to drill tiny holes in the upper inner corners of each folded tab. This keeps the metal from splitting right in the corner. Several of us talked about this. It is done on race cars, and to stop cracks in cymbals from spreading (drums).

 

 

Edited by rottenotto

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But then, William gave in, and started stocking the covers separately. So I bought a half dozen. They are inexpensive.

 

THE FIX was to drill tiny holes in the upper inner corners of each folded tab. This keeps the metal from splitting right in the corner. Several of us talked about this. It is done on race cars, and to stop cracks in cymbals from spreading (drums).

 

If you could, would you please show us a picture incase we screw it up. im sure i get what you mean but just want to be sure :unsure:

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SORTED out hop up issue!

 

After stripping the inner barrel and hop up unit for the third time I have decided to try and put a small (and I mean small...TINY) piece of rubber in before putting in the ball bearing for the hop.

 

PRESTO! hop up now works and is as sensitive as an AEGs hop. BB has stopped rolling out the barrel after every shot as well.

 

It seems the tapered ring which makes the hop up go up and down was not pushing the ball bearing down enough to effectively engage bbs as they passed through. Adding that little bit extra did the trick.

 

Thanks everyone who helped!

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can you give a few dimensions of that rubber bit?

 

thickness, material, shape, length, width etc?

 

I'm probably going to strip mine out this morning.

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It seems the tapered ring which makes the hop up go up and down was not pushing the ball bearing down enough to effectively engage bbs as they passed through. Adding that little bit extra did the trick.

..wouldn't a bigger ball bearing ( instead of a rubber piece ) solve the problem aswell?

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