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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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See, whenever I use FogTech (or any particular brand of anti misting solution) it never, ever works as advertised. Give it twenty minutes and a light run around and the *beep* things will be fogging up again...

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Gah... Sounds like I really need to get this...

 

Wish I could get it with Diemaco C8 lower and SFW barrel profile.

 

Or some fun variation of 20" bull barrel and free-float target handguard.

 

Oh well, I bet those options will be in the works before next summer. :)

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You know the old saying about pleasing most people some of the time, or some people most of the time etc.? :)

 

I really, really wish they could do away with the fugly brass tube in the upper and have a proper reciprocating bolt, and run on CO2 powerlets. That's all I would change on this little beasty.

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You know the old saying about pleasing most people some of the time, or some people most of the time etc.? :)

 

I really, really wish they could do away with the fugly brass tube in the upper and have a proper reciprocating bolt, and run on CO2 powerlets. That's all I would change on this little beasty.

 

If you want the full bolt then buy a WA/Inokatsu. This system is designed as such for skirmishability not for looks. The whole point of this system is to make reliable feeding a possibility in a blow back gun. If it bothers you like it bothered me then just paint it black or take it someplace and have them permanetly die it black or what have you. CO2 mags are coming in January and they are supposedly able to use 12g CO2 cartridges? Thats what the rumour is I guess.

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You know the old saying about pleasing most people some of the time, or some people most of the time etc.? :)

 

I really, really wish they could do away with the fugly brass tube in the upper and have a proper reciprocating bolt, and run on CO2 powerlets. That's all I would change on this little beasty.

 

 

When you shot it looks like a new round is chambered, but ofc when the bolt is open it doesent look so good :P

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For those of you that own one, is there much contact between the cycling bolt and the brass chamber underneath it? Because as awesome as it would be to paint the brass black, it may end up being pretty pointless if the bolt's continuous cycling removes the paint. :mellow:

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For those of you that own one, is there much contact between the cycling bolt and the brass chamber underneath it? Because as awesome as it would be to paint the brass black, it may end up being pretty pointless if the bolt's continuous cycling removes the paint. :mellow:

I think it's a pretty tight system, so the bolt might scrape off any paint...

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I think it's a pretty tight system, so the bolt might scrape off any paint...

Do you know what kind of metal it is? Is it definitely brass? If so you could use Brownell's Brass Black to refinish it. Otherwise, there's Super Blue for steel, or Aluminum Black for Aluminum.

 

Worth a try I think. :)

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It is brass. The bolt could be media blasted and then blued . The stock finish is pretty decent though.

Do you know what kind of metal it is? Is it definitely brass? If so you could use Brownell's Brass Black to refinish it. Otherwise, there's Super Blue for steel, or Aluminum Black for Aluminum.

 

Worth a try I think. :)

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Hey, I have decided against the WA, and am about to purchase the WE. Can't possibly read through all 50+ pages, so here are a few questions

 

Is the bolt stop the only part that needs to be replaced?

Can the WE run reliably on green?

Which parts of the gun is metal and plastic?

What is the quality of the metal?

Any issues with the mags?

Anything i should take note of?

 

thanks!

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Yay Got mine today! :)

 

The mag fill valve leaks, that O-ring really needs replacing. I found an old GBB mag from an old WA and took the O-ring out of that. Works like a charm now.

 

Accuracy with the M4 barrel sucks at long ranges cos the inner barrel is mounted at a different axis to the outer barrel, and so the pressure caused by the outer barrel to the inner barrel causes it to warp and hook. Swapping to the shortened barrel eliminated a lot of the hooking issues.

 

My forward assist button sprang out after finishing a mag, I had to super glue it back on.

 

Bolt catch is crud, and definately requires a steel one. Mine has bent, over the course of 2 mags. It still works but not a good thing.

 

It needs a clean before you fire it to clean the excess silicone oil.

 

Aside from that, metal is very liteweight, casting is good (but not perfect), finishing is very good also. It out powers my Star SLR on an M150, and kicks like a .22LR :) I am very pleased with it, but I would be more pleased if it shot straight out of the box and ironed out those little things :)

 

Thanks Airsoftbuddy for also permanently converting the gun to semi-auto :)

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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My forward assist button sprang out after finishing a mag, I had to super glue it back on.

 

I know this problem, it happened on mine too ;)

 

Not a big issue in fact, that why i didn't told about yet on the forum, just a little bit of glue to fix it.

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Hey, I have decided against the WA, and am about to purchase the WE. Can't possibly read through all 50+ pages, so here are a few questions

 

Is the bolt stop the only part that needs to be replaced?

Can the WE run reliably on green?

Which parts of the gun is metal and plastic?

What is the quality of the metal?

Any issues with the mags?

Anything i should take note of?

 

thanks!

 

dude, i really want to smack you and your lazyness. but really, i know what you mean. back when this topic was 40 pages long, it took me 5 hours the read the 900 posts.

 

1.)the bolt stop and possibly the charging handle (appear that the charging handle is real steel compatible). vut WE is not shipping out versions with steel bolt stops, so by the time you get one, you need not worry.

2.) yes, it is actually recommended to run on green.

3.) its all metal baby, cept for the hand grips and stock (which is real steel compatible, and supposed to be plastic)

4.) all the metal is brass and steel on the inside while the body is cast aluminum (still better than most AEG metal bodies) the rest of the metal on the body is said to be steel.

5.) the mags have leaking issues out of both valves that go away with use. i bet if you take all the o-rings out and soak them is silicon, all will be well.

6.) the only thing you need to keep mind of otherwise is the power of the gun, as it likes to shoot around 500fps.

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Describe the forward assist issue? What do you mean it pops out, and when is super glue used?

 

The idea is great, but the implementation so so: seems like a lot of stuff just falls apart on arrival with the WE. The aftermarket really needs to develop.

 

It's strange that the IB is not coaxial with the outer. Is this due to the IB flexing? The outer barrel not clamped tight enough? I'm having a tough time imagining this problem, and why switching to a shorter barrel would alleviate the issue if they aren't coaxial to begin with.

Edited by slu

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The idea is great, but the implementation so so: seems like a lot of stuff just falls apart on arrival with the WE. The aftermarket really needs to develop.

From the sounds of things it still fares a lot better out of the box than any other GBB M4 out there at the moment.

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which is still 100 times better than the WA. The ones mentioned in this thread are from the very first batch of the very first GBB rifle WE have made.... Leaky fill valves that fix themselves after use and weak bolt stops that have already been fixed doesn't strike me as big issues, esp compared to what it takes to get a WA M4 skirmish worthy.

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