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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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Well I had the chance to test TSC's undirectional nozzle this afternoon. I used a steel nozzle and steel floating valve. The lowest rage I got was about 200 fps. The highest I got was about 480 fps. It turns out that about a quarter turn is roughly equivalent to 25 fps. I'd say you have about 3 revolutions max for adjustment. So it does work in terms of adjustment pretty well too.

 

In terms of consistency I was getting -/+ 10 fps, pretty good. But before you all decide to get one there is one issue and it's a big one. The problem lies in the smallest part of the assembly the locking nut. For about 10 shots it will be fine, then you'll notice huge variances. Take out your bolt carrier and you'll find that the locking nut has come loose and the knob is spinning freely. You can try to make it tighter but for a part so small it will strip. What I have done is loctitie it at 360 fps, the knob and locking nut. If I want to adjust it higher or lower I will apply some heat and re loctite it. Adjustable yes, practical no way.

 

If anyone else decides to manufacture an adjustable valve system for the WE then I suggesting that would some sort of ratchet system. So when you are adjusting it you feeling a clicking thus allowing it to lock in place without this locking nut approach.

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I don't believe that part was ever ment to be /easily/ adjustable, just so that you can tune your gun to your fields specific FPS limits.

 

If it was any more "practical " I'd be working on banning or reducing its use at my field because players can't handle easily adjustable fps, period.

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This problem seems to have zero to do with the 'cooldown of steel' as some had thought. Its the same as brass. In fact, after tinkering, brass seems more reactive to cold then steel.

 

The only thing the steel nozzles are good for are the steel floating valves inside - the brass valves would all break in a matter of time.

 

You're right. Although brass has a higher thermal coefficient of expansion that steel, it really is minute or insignificant. I did a calculation on a brass barrel at freezing point and the difference was in the range of microns, or less.

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Quick update: my semi/auto burst issue is still not fixed and I still have no idea as to the cause. Thanks go to those who have tried to help so far. I have reassembled my entire gun so many times I lost count and nothing appears worn, in the wrong place or stuck/sticking. I get a consistent 28/29 shots from a single CO2 bulb and my chrono tests have been very inconsistent. I would really like someone to confirm the correct assembly of the trigger parts and where/how the springs should be placed when reassembling the unit. A clutching at straws theory but if the hammer spring was strong enough it could stop the bolt from completing a full cycle and hence cause a similar burst effect. This might also cause more gas to be used as the trigger might not fully reset causing the mag to be in a release state for longer than normal.

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TDS,

 

Your statement regarding practicality makes no sense. Airsoft is a game of honor, if people want to cheat they will cheat no matter what you do. Systems rifles have quick change cylinders, escort guns have regulators, many new aegs have gearboxes that allow the spring to be taken out without dismantlng the entire assembly, and then you have the RATech npas system for the WA system which I hope they develop one for the WE. When I say practical, I expect it to work as advertised, which this doesn't. It must be have an ease of use, even at home with correct tools it was a challenge to get it to work corectly consistenly. So I'm seeking something more practical in those terms.

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Last milsim i have damaged butt stock of my M4. Can anybody confirm if this would fit ?

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/accessories/sto...tock-black.html

 

Yes, I have it on mine and it fits very well. Not 100% wobble free like the $100 locking version, but much better than the stock stock.

 

FYI you can use any mil-spec "real steel" stock, or any airsoft stock that does not replace the buffer tube.

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Going to try sealing my mags as some leak - is it this stuf you use (UK equivalent) http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...yId_165691#dtab ??

 

 

Also, Otto, did you have to do anything to your v2 hop rubber to stop it from over hoping? I bought the barrel and rubbers a couple of months back but have not yet fitted them as most people I know who did have overhop problems.

 

Nope, never needed to "mod" it......but you DO have to select a good rubber. They are VERY inconsistent.

I wrote about this here on the forum way back when they were first released (picking out a good rubber bucking).

 

I really need to add a post at the WIKI site.......basically showing the inconsistencies in them and picking out the best bucking; One that just peaks through the inner barrel and no more.

 

I have been so busy with work though - summer is my busy season.

 

The gen2 hop up rubbers are NOT all the same and was the reason for WILDLY different reviews as for its performance. (Typical WE quality control - lackadaisical.)

 

If you pick the right one out of a handful of green rubbers/sleeves, you will have near laser beam accurate shots with excellent consistency. If you pick a wrong one, the results are poor.

 

 

 

 

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Where did 30-some pages go??

last time i checked this topic had 307 pages..what happened?

 

Cazboab deleted 30-odd pages of posts which were made before the rifle was released, so that anyone who endeavors to read through the topic from the beginning won't have to deal with 600 posts of "Wow, this looks sweet, can't wait, somebody review it", etc.

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Um... I just came back from a trip to Thailand and i found my M4 somewhat rusty on some bits. Like the flashhider, takedown pins and the handguard thinge.

Is that suppose to happen. It is indeed very very humid in Hong Kong.

 

And i still can't pull out the whole brass tube, hop up and inner barrel assembly.

Edited by alston251

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Well the body and all the anodized stuff has no rust just the little bits that's quite important you see?

 

Anyways, there's something more important. I today tried to lower the FPS of my M4 by attempting to put a 7mm bushing in.

But i have heated the nozzle countless times and it just doesn't come off. The worst news is that i have scratched the rod so badly that the action isn't really smooth.

But firing it is fine. It's just my perfectionist mind affecting me. Can i get a replacement anyhow?

And how are you meant to properly take apart the nozzle assembly??

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Well the body and all the anodized stuff has no rust just the little bits that's quite important you see?

 

Anyways, there's something more important. I today tried to lower the FPS of my M4 by attempting to put a 7mm bushing in.

But i have heated the nozzle countless times and it just doesn't come off. The worst news is that i have scratched the rod so badly that the action isn't really smooth.

But firing it is fine. It's just my perfectionist mind affecting me. Can i get a replacement anyhow?

And how are you meant to properly take apart the nozzle assembly??

 

. spare: http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=191

 

. i'm using a torch lighter.

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meh, airsoft123, /me want the LaRue receiver,.. can you estimate when it will be available? What about the price.. are there any news?

 

thx

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