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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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Airsoftbuddies shop has new chormed (funny how this type is being copied over and over again:-))... chromed inner barrels with a new hop-up rubber (seems it's no longer green but black now).

 

Anyone has already tried these new new rubbers? Are these rubbers available somewhere? Is it only the rubber that's new or did the barrel change to?

 

Thanks.

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There's a thread on GGI about the rubbers, the reviews are mixed. Airsoftbuddy sells them individually here, I ordered one but it's in US Customs at the moment.

 

Looks like it's time to place another order, I've been waiting for the standard M4 length "chormed" barrel for a while. I think the M16 length is being offered for the first time as well. More new stuff at Buddy:

 

CO2 mag parts #1 and #2--will these help to fix my leaks???? That part #2 looks like it might be an upgrade of some sort, fingers crossed.

 

Steel Made Part #61 and #66--never seen an upgraded #61 before. They look beefy but I'll let someone else find out if it's worth $36. You can get the whole set of parts #61-62-63-64 from Evike for only $10 plus a "reinforced" #66 for another $10.

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kojak: quite good question tbh. looking at the part piercing and sealing the co2 cartridge i must say it it's definatly not the part the label #2, so i guess it's internal (yup a complement to part #1 ... surpise ;D)

who'll be the first to try it out? ^_^

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Does anyone know if parts #111/#112 ( barrel and valve housing ) for green gas can be used with the new co2 steel nozzle, using green gas off course. It's just that my M4 nozzle ( v1 ) just broke ( ok broke it xD ) and i have a "spare" one from my CO2 M16, i was wondering if i could use my M16 bolt carrier ( CO2 ) on the M4 ( Green ) until i get replacement parts.Any body ?

 

No they don't :(

Edited by danielsilva

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Question for all you WE M4 nuts - is it possible for the gun to work without part#66?

 

The reason I ask is that on my WE SCAR, I've had issues with the valve knocker for a while. When I moved everything out but the select fire bar/hammer/valve striker, it was able to move back fine. However, when I installed part #66, it didn't work at all.

 

Here's my understanding of that part: in normal stance the part is held down via the spring above it. When the hammer is cocked back, the part moves upward, allowing the valve knocker assembly to move backwards and position itself behind the mag valve. When the hammer is released, the valve knocker hits the valve, allowing the gun to shoot, and the blowback mechanism restarts the entire process. This is right, correct?

 

It seems that whatever part on the hammer that pushes part #66 upwards isn't doing so, so my valve knocker stays forward, unable to move behind the mag valve. However, if part #66 is moved, it works fine. I've fired around 10 shots on semi (afraid to go further) and it seems perfectly operable without the part and its spring.

 

Could someone else explain what else could be wrong, and if the part is removed, how detrimental it would be to my trigger box?

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alston: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=90068

quite a nice thread.

 

I've also just ordered a SCAR kit since all the M4 ones are out of stock atm, so i'll be testing it at the end of the week if im lucky.

 

Cheers mate. :D Looks like a real simple design. The valve is just a CO2 valve. All m4s should come with them if you bought it recently.

If it doesn't fit you just need one of those CO2 brass tube things.(included in CO2 kit)

 

Doesn't seem too expensive. Will give it a go.

 

Anyone know if it is possible to make a WE ambi selector in any way?

Modding WA, modding RS, or cnc one?

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Question for all you WE M4 nuts - is it possible for the gun to work without part#66?

Part #66 is also what keeps the valve knocker forward enabling the valve to release gas for about 1/3 the movement of the bolt. In short, it's what should make your bolt cycle. What's happening in your case is that the hammer alone is keeping the valve open until the BCG puts pressure off it. I don't think not having #66 will be detrimental to any other part, but I do think that you may have issues with cycling the bolt when cool down kicks in, but will unlikely happen anyways since the mags only hold 30 odd bbs.

You'd need to find out if its your #66, the hammer, or the knocker that's the problem. If the hammer doesn't engage #66 at all then either the hammer or #66 is broken. If the hammer engages against #66 causing it to move normally but the knocker is not reset by it, then it could just be the knocker (or #66) snagging against something and could be sorted with a file. There's also the possibility of the BCG not engaging with the hammer low enough to reset the knocker which happens with some lemon charging handles on the M4.

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Regarding #66 which I posted on GGI:

 

Nope.

Just removed my broken part #66, emptied 3 magazines, 1 semi only, 1 full auto, 1 burst fire. All co2.

 

All seems fine.

Tried to look how it works as well and Im not sure of its purpose.

It gets pushed up by the hammer by its 'arm' (this part snapped on mine) so the valve knocker can move back.

The top part of #66 (the L) seems to get in the way of the valve knocker stopping it moving back, once pushed up its lifted over the small block on the knocker to allow it to retract.

 

Maybe this part is supposed to hold the knocker forward when it fires to get better efficiency? A more solid push?

The valve may be able to push the knocker back slightly maybe?

 

So, Im really not sure but my Scar seems to function fine without it.

Currently firing about 255 (+/- 10) with my NPAS, accuracy is rather rubbish with .20`s.

Edited by Reppyboyo

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Anybody got news from AB recently?

 

I've heard nothing from them after I politely enquired (last week) about the progress of an order I placed nearly a month ago.

 

Will be giving them a swift kick up the backside soon enough.

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the above look like the old hop up rubbers

 

I believe this is a new part; not sure if it's for CO2 mags or propane: http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=444

 

If memory serves, that's for the GG mags

 

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Anybody got news from AB recently?

 

 

I read at some other HK-shop's webpages there is/was some holliday oct 25-26.

Perhaps thta's why things are so silent at th HK front.

 

But I get the impression to these last weeks the HK-webshop-people are very very silent.

 

 

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There is a "new" shop out there for the WE M4: http://gbbparts.com/index.html check it out, espessially the welcome text, and then the picassa links in the "airsoft news section"...and now, quess who's picassa is it?

 

 

Texts and images are "copied" from the AB site...

 

In the text one can read:

 

"To order this new release, please order in our e-shop or send an email to enquiry@airsoftbuddy.com for quotation and pay to our Paypal account at payment@airsoftbuddy.com...."

 

Nice find, Eliminator.

 

 

The domainname is registered at a Dutch registrar... And nameservers are .ru.

 

Doesn't "feel" very trustworthy to me. Looks as if someone is planning a "take the money and run" business. So I think.

 

Edited by lukvdh

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Part #66 is also what keeps the valve knocker forward enabling the valve to release gas for about 1/3 the movement of the bolt. In short, it's what should make your bolt cycle. What's happening in your case is that the hammer alone is keeping the valve open until the BCG puts pressure off it. I don't think not having #66 will be detrimental to any other part, but I do think that you may have issues with cycling the bolt when cool down kicks in, but will unlikely happen anyways since the mags only hold 30 odd bbs.

You'd need to find out if its your #66, the hammer, or the knocker that's the problem. If the hammer doesn't engage #66 at all then either the hammer or #66 is broken. If the hammer engages against #66 causing it to move normally but the knocker is not reset by it, then it could just be the knocker (or #66) snagging against something and could be sorted with a file. There's also the possibility of the BCG not engaging with the hammer low enough to reset the knocker which happens with some lemon charging handles on the M4.

 

I fired it again today - VERY low blowback, so what you said could be correct. I'm guessing since the part is there, the gas is leaking out everywhere and not conservatively going towards the blowback action. I'll check my hammer assembly tonight and see if anything's broken - how can you tell if the section of the hammer that engages part #66 is worn or broken?

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