Jump to content
Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

Recommended Posts

You're absolutely right, it's rare to communicate directly with other manufacturers, but you know why? Because they have thousands of aftermarket part replacements readily available for their systems, and those users don't need to beg for a pot metal trigger or something as simple as a missing spring or screw.

 

I do hear that European shops are more consistent in keeping their parts in stock and carrying hard to find replacements. But why not here in the US?

 

The problem then is clear. WE needs to drop their current US based dealers and find a retailer that will frequently stock spare parts and improve their overall image. Airsoft Outlet NW is a joke, they carry a small handful of parts and they're completely out of stock. Evike? these guys won't order special parts even if their website mentions this:

 

"Lots of Optional Accessories and 100% Factory Part Support Provided by Evike.com Inc. Another Reason To Buy Yourself A WE MK16 ASC Today!"

 

A bunch of BS. If their M14's trigger group or any critical operation part is made of pot metal, it will be no different that the M4 series.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Airsoft Buddy still has his M4 parts list up together with price list. Takes a couple weeks lead time to get the parts you need from Taiwan (pay only when they receive them), but there's still the fact that he's ripped off quite a number of people so it's hard to tell if you'd get your parts in the end. At least my transactions with them have gone smoothly in the past but they were all small items.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

TBH, the reason the WE M4 triggers are stuffed is because they significantly redesigned the shape of the triggers so the contact surfaces wear a lot easier/faster. If the triggers and sears were the same shape as the WA or RS then even with pot metal it would take a much longer time to wear/not wear at all.

 

That also means that if the WE M14 triggers are pot metal it may or may not wear either. Just look at the Marushin M1 Garand and M1/M2 carbines their triggers are pot metal, and so are the majority of the Airsoft SMGs.

 

Else like the RS Steyr you could make them out of polymer/plastic and still fire off many many thousands of rounds before the trigger pack would wear or break.

 

For the WE M4, If you purchased the Stainless Steel unpainted versions of the TSC triggers/sears/hammer it just requires a slight modification before they work, but aside from that you are set. DO NOT buy the painted TSC triggers as they are off dimensions and don't work.

 

I do just wish that WE just fix their floating valve and nozzle, maybe AEG hop, then I have no more issues with the M4.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

By subjective you mean that it works for some and doesnt work for others? Does it vary based on what version of the gun its installed to? Or is it just a luck of the draw thing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Apparently there are good news coming for the WE long running problem, it appears there is a new trigger group coming, made from forged and CNC'd finished steel ( maybe a bit overkill but hey ). Let's hope the fitting quality is as good as the manufacturing process is.

 

Sorry daniel but all I see in the video is a heavy recoil set...

Anyway, if there is really a new trigger group in the make, I'll surely buy one of them.

 

So, all of you Magpul junkies have a new fix.

 

 

It's the new products for RedWolf, and among them are an FDE and Black Prime Magpul receiver.

 

ASAP included.

 

And look at that price....

 

For me the only prob's are

hopup (Stinger) => fixed

leaky mag's (alot of lithium grease) => fixed

bolt catch => still not fixed

 

If someone (please WETTI) could find a solution for this problem, he would be my savior for the day (and longer...)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
By subjective you mean that it works for some and doesnt work for others? Does it vary based on what version of the gun its installed to? Or is it just a luck of the draw thing?

 

Just that people who have it installed have reported an improvement, but there's no photos of groups or anything like that. Plus by design it's not all that different from the WE unit.

 

I would say that a true AEG conversion kit (one that accepts H-nubs, AEG inner barrels and buckings) is the only guaranteed solution. You would still have the WE FPS drift to deal with if you wanted truly tight groups.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sorry daniel but all I see in the video is a heavy recoil set...

Anyway, if there is really a new trigger group in the make, I'll surely buy one of them.

 

Look at my post correctly, i just pointed the video the manufacturer has on their webpage. Look a few posts further back and you can see the post where someone posted where the information came. There you can see more info, including photos, price etc I have 5 sets on the way btw :)

 

And look at that price....

 

It's a Prime receiver set ... what did you expect ? :P

Still gonna buy it though ...

 

For me the only prob's are

hopup (Stinger) => fixed

leaky mag's (alot of lithium grease) => fixed

bolt catch => still not fixed

 

If someone (please WETTI) could find a solution for this problem, he would be my savior for the day (and longer...)

 

Well my V1 started to work fine since i shimmed the bolt catch, and my v3 came working since day 1.

 

Just that people who have it installed have reported an improvement, but there's no photos of groups or anything like that. Plus by design it's not all that different from the WE unit.

 

I would say that a true AEG conversion kit (one that accepts H-nubs, AEG inner barrels and buckings) is the only guaranteed solution. You would still have the WE FPS drift to deal with if you wanted truly tight groups.

 

It's currently raining heavily and with very strong winds so making those photos would be worthless, as soon as i get fairly good weather i'll post some grouping shots from 20, 50 and 70m. I'll then test it against the AEG conversion i'll be performing in a fews weeks i hope.

About the FPS drifts, well that's a problem with any gbb, it doesn't matter much if is a WA, WE, KJW whatever ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Odd, the Prime Magpul receiver was pulled out of Redwolf no more than a day it was up, then they replace it with this:

Magpul PTS CNC Upper & Lower Receiver for WE M4 (Dark Earth)

http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/...il?prodID=28618

*also available in black

 

So they just made arrangements with Prime or did the PTS guys really make this one on their own?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Look at my post correctly, i just pointed the video the manufacturer has on their webpage. Look a few posts further back and you can see the post where someone posted where the information came. There you can see more info, including photos, price etc I have 5 sets on the way btw :)

Have found the original post... my bad :unsure:

 

Well my V1 started to work fine since i shimmed the bolt catch, and my v3 came working since day 1.

Will do this as well. On the other hand I'm going to try and put some extra material on the bolt catch. This way it will engage much faster. I think that someone allready tried it but just by glueing it..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can someone help me out here? I installed the TSC steel hammer and TSC steel disconnector/sear as well as the steel part 66. Everything sort of works. When in semi auto I fire 2 rounds. One squeeze of the trigger fires 1 round, then when I release the trigger it fires another. Full auto works just fine. Sometimes I also can't switch between full auto or semi auto after firing a round, then I fire another round and the selector works again. I've read somewhere a while ago that something on the hammer has to be modified? I can't find this, can someone help me out and let me know what I need to do?

 

BTW IPSCGM is an awesome retailer. They always ship when they say they will, amazing communication and I always get my parts. They don't have a lot of parts listed on their site. This is mainly because they only list what they actually have in stock to sell! Anyways, I highly recommend these guys. Shipping time is a bit long. They are located in Macau (Hong Kong area).

 

thanks!

 

Bryan

Edited by Autotechnica

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Can someone help me out here? I installed the TSC steel hammer and TSC steel disconnector/sear as well as the steel part 66. Everything sort of works. When in semi auto I fire 2 rounds. One squeeze of the trigger fires 1 round, then when I release the trigger it fires another. Full auto works just fine. Sometimes I also can't switch between full auto or semi auto after firing a round, then I fire another round and the selector works again. I've read somewhere a while ago that something on the hammer has to be modified? I can't find this, can someone help me out and let me know what I need to do?

 

BTW IPSCGM is an awesome retailer. They always ship when they say they will, amazing communication and I always get my parts. They don't have a lot of parts listed on their site. This is mainly because they only list what they actually have in stock to sell! Anyways, I highly recommend these guys. Shipping time is a bit long. They are located in Macau (Hong Kong area).

 

thanks!

 

Bryan

 

I take it you're using the stock WE trigger? If so, that's your problem. The steel parts are eating away at the WE trigger's contact point (with the sear/disconnector).

 

Continued use will result in full wear and non-stop full auto when set on semi. Best advise would be to also replace the trigger with the TSC one (######), or go back to the original WE stock parts (also ######). I had the same problem as you and just went back to WE stock parts, now it's just a matter of time before they also wear out...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I take it you're using the stock WE trigger? If so, that's your problem. The steel parts are eating away at the WE trigger's contact point (with the sear/disconnector).

 

Continued use will result in full wear and non-stop full auto when set on semi. Best advise would be to also replace the trigger with the TSC one (######), or go back to the original WE stock parts (also ######). I had the same problem as you and just went back to WE stock parts, now it's just a matter of time before they also wear out...

 

 

Bummer. My main problem was prolonged use with CO2 mags actually broke the disconnector, part 66 and the hammer. I had to replace all the parts and figured the new steel CNC parts were a no brainer. The only reason I didn't get the TSC trigger as well is because it just looks plain ugly. I guess now I have no choice. I've decided not to use CO2 mags anymore, the guns internals were just not meant for it. Anyways, I don't want to go back to the stock WE parts, so I guess I have no choice but to get the TSC trigger as well.

 

thanks for the help!

 

Bry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Have found the original post... my bad :unsure:

 

 

Will do this as well. On the other hand I'm going to try and put some extra material on the bolt catch. This way it will engage much faster. I think that someone allready tried it but just by glueing it..

 

 

I've put a shim in, didn't really help.

 

Then I loosened ("unscrewed") the stock-tube 2 turns, now boltcatch is working. Did you already try that?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Can someone help me out here? I installed the TSC steel hammer and TSC steel disconnector/sear as well as the steel part 66. Everything sort of works. When in semi auto I fire 2 rounds. One squeeze of the trigger fires 1 round, then when I release the trigger it fires another. Full auto works just fine. Sometimes I also can't switch between full auto or semi auto after firing a round, then I fire another round and the selector works again. I've read somewhere a while ago that something on the hammer has to be modified? I can't find this, can someone help me out and let me know what I need to do?

 

BTW IPSCGM is an awesome retailer. They always ship when they say they will, amazing communication and I always get my parts. They don't have a lot of parts listed on their site. This is mainly because they only list what they actually have in stock to sell! Anyways, I highly recommend these guys. Shipping time is a bit long. They are located in Macau (Hong Kong area).

 

thanks!

 

Bryan

 

Ahem! I refer the honourable gentleman to my earlier reply on this subject :D

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...t&p=2260057

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, so i gave my WE M16 it's first real full length game and couldn't be happier. I had two kills from this game, both of them at a minimum distance of 50m ( 165ft, confirmed via GPS ), both were one shot one type kills and both torso shots.

Apart from the modified Stinger Hop-Up, my M16 is still completely stock internally. Outside temperature was 4~4,5ºC, i used mainly CO2 and always used semi when on game.

 

The blowback and ROF with CO2 was very crisp, strong and gave a good ROF with 3/5-rounds burst. I then switched to propane and although the rifle functioned, the blowback was much much weaker and couldn't sustain no more than 4 or 5 consecutive shots without venting gas.

 

Since the game was over i tried to discharge all the mags i was carrying ( 1 CO2, 3 propane ), since part #117 is still unmodified the result was a stuck nozzle, the gas started to vent everywhere and no BB's exited the barrel. When manually trying to remove the BCG i couldn't easily see the culprit since everything cycled freely until the nozzle had to leave part #117, the thing wouldn't bulge until much force was applied. Doing it on reverse with the receivers open you could see where the nozzle would get stuck, part #117.

 

I intend to post tomorrow some group shots.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ahem! I refer the honourable gentleman to my earlier reply on this subject :D

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...t&p=2260057

 

 

Great work! But honestly that's far too much work. I would rather just buy a steel trigger and be done with. But kudos to you for the custom work.

 

thanks,

 

Bryan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bummer. My main problem was prolonged use with CO2 mags actually broke the disconnector, part 66 and the hammer. I had to replace all the parts and figured the new steel CNC parts were a no brainer. The only reason I didn't get the TSC trigger as well is because it just looks plain ugly. I guess now I have no choice. I've decided not to use CO2 mags anymore, the guns internals were just not meant for it. Anyways, I don't want to go back to the stock WE parts, so I guess I have no choice but to get the TSC trigger as well.

 

thanks for the help!

 

Bry

 

There is the CWI trigger group, made from forged steel. I'll be getting mine next month ( 5 sets for me ), been getting positive reviews from it. I'll test them as soon as i get them and post the findings here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where can you buy this?

 

I was looking into either RA-Tech firing pin and part #66 set, or the CNC'd one on AirsoftBuddy.

 

The RA-Tech doesn't seem to come with the ACTUAL firing pin. The part that makes contact with the magazine.

 

I really want to make this decent weapon. My firing pin is bent up, and part#66 is broken.

 

Also, is there a place to buy the small ball bearings in the selector system? Or is that exclisive to teh SCAR?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got WE m4 cqbr for last 3months. It works brilliantly for the 3~4days but I found the plastic part in pistol part(inside bolt carrier) occationally block a small hole where the gas gose out which it makes not fireing. Hmm... hope anyone knows what i mean...^^

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.