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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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the bolt locks and all the gas rushes out of the magazine

At what position is the bolt in when it does that? Is there plenty of resistance when you pull the bolt back? I'm thinking it's similar to how some CO2 nozzles have their tolerances out of whack and gets stuck in the hop chamber (part #117 on the M4), leaving the bolt stuck and the valve wide open.

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Not to deviate this thread from the WE and not to down the platform, but in regards to the comments made on cold weather and the KJW rifle, I was personally able to skirmish with mine in rather cold weather. The coldest it had been during the winter when i played was 19 degrees F. The recoil was a little less remarkable, but I was able to go through 8 magazines each game with the bolt locking back every time. I dont know if this was needed information but I thought it would be good to explain my cold weather experiences with it. There is a vid of me shooting it on youtube somewhere in the cold (not recorded by me) on said 19 degree day, but I dont really have proof of the temp in the vid so it dosnt matter much.

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If you go some pages back, there's talk about the incompatibility between M4 and SCAR mags in that the SCAR mags have their rubber seal 1mm or so higher than the M4. What happens is you can't seat the SCAR mag in your M4 simply because the rubber part is thicker. Visually check your non-seating mags against the working one. If they're indeed higher, you could just take a sharp knife and file/sandpaper to it and reduce its height.

*remove material on the lower part, not the part that makes contact with the brass tube.

 

If it's not that, have a look at the magazine casing. The ledge that the mag catch engages might not be bent outward enough and just slips. Use a flat screwdriver and pry it out some.

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Before begining to sand the thing, just unscrew the screw on top of your mag, pull the rubber seal that contacts with the brass tube out, remove the the little O-ring thats installed between the ruber seal and the gas chamber, put the rubber seal back in place and put the screw in. The whole thing takes maybe 2 minutes for 2 mags.

Your mag will now fit perfectly into your M4 (although sealing will be worse in a SCAR I'm afraid). I've done this for my newly arrived mag's and they work like a charm.

No need to sand anything...

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If you go some pages back, there's talk about the incompatibility between M4 and SCAR mags in that the SCAR mags have their rubber seal 1mm or so higher than the M4. What happens is you can't seat the SCAR mag in your M4 simply because the rubber part is thicker. Visually check your non-seating mags against the working one. If they're indeed higher, you could just take a sharp knife and file/sandpaper to it and reduce its height.

*remove material on the lower part, not the part that makes contact with the brass tube.

 

If it's not that, have a look at the magazine casing. The ledge that the mag catch engages might not be bent outward enough and just slips. Use a flat screwdriver and pry it out some.

 

 

Or he could unscrue one scrue on the top of the mag, lift the feedlip of the mag and remove the small o-ring, yes the diffrence of a scar mag to a M4 mag is ONE small o-ring under the rubber gas feeder lips.

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Although everybody seems to slide in to KJW camp, I´m going to stick with WE until I get the AEG hop-up. So, any news or updates on this AEG hop-up subject?

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hopup is a terrible design isnt it, I'm gonna be making an attempt at converting the WE system to AEG type hopup tomorrow to see how it goes,.

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Has anyone been having issues with bb's jamming? I cleaned the barrel and hop up and managed to get some bb's shooting out everyone shot but then it acts up again. I pull the trigger a couple times and nothing comes out but then when I tilt the barrel to the ground they come rolling out slowly. I figure it might be silicone but I'm wondering if anyone else has had similar problems.

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I had the blocked BB's a lot, it is like renegadecow said the ribbeled rubber bucking that keeps the BB's from just rolling out the barrel thats dryes out, you get the same problem with AEG hopup rubbes sometimes, I give it a good spray with thin silicone and let it sit, then I cleane the barrel.

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Ive fixed this problem on the Scar, AKC PDW and 416, all were related to the rubber seal at the top of the barrel, as the others said,

 

I like to take the entire barrel down and dry it out entirely. the hopup in these is terrible so i also installed this,

http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=443

 

it protrudes a lot more than the original and performs a million times better. :)

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If you are taking the hopup apart anyway install a stinger kit allong with it, its only 15 USD, so even if it doesent do much the parts a better made so it can't hurt.

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I just went out and got a TSC Ambi-selector for the WE M4. Does anyone know how to take the stock selector out? :P

I'll post a review of the selector when i've installed it.

 

Cheers guys.

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You have to remove the grip to release tension on the ball-detent plunger that's keeping it in. Then you just pull it out but you may have to push down on the trigger bits if it gets in the way.

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The large O-ring on my TSC CO2 nozzle broke during a game, but I went through about six mags after that and didn't notice any difference.

 

 

Biggest current complaint is the useless hopup (black version). Where the heck is the AEG barrel conversion?

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I know that there's some guy on the GGi forum that tried to convert the original brass tube so it could take AEG barrels...

 

I was going to buy a WE M16 but I think that I will wait until they fixed some of their problems. In the meanwhile I've allready cancelled my orders for the SCAR and PDW... Too bad 'cause I like my M4 (apart from it's terrible hop problem)

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Ok, I've been working with my WE M4 v3 getting it ready for an Op, but have been struggling with a few issues:

 

1) The cooldown effect is causing the bolt assembly to slow to a crawl. I suspect that it is the brass cylinder that is shrinking due to the cold, and causing the friction. This is in 70 degree Fahrenheit weather. No matter what type of lube I've tried in the brass piston cylinder, after about 3 mags (just semi, not even full auto) the bolt assembly starts to get too much friction going. I'm using strictly propane with the stock steel nozzle. Any thoughts?

 

2) I have used the TSC adjustable rod to get the FPS down to about 350. But the fluations from shot to shot are still ridiculous (340, 360, 355, 405, 385, 350, etc.). Is there anything I can do to improve this?

Edited by Torque

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that shot to shot fluctuation is part of using gas. nothing can be done about it :(

as for your slow bolt i HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY doubt that the brass tube can shrink enough to cause this type of binding. you are grossly over-estimating the factor by which materials shrink and expand due to temperature. the tolerances in the WE are not tight enough for temp shrinkage to be a factor. on jet turbine blades however... all im saying is that the WE is by no means a precision instrument and the slop or clearance between parts is easily enough to allow for any shrinkage/expansion.

 

also, the cool down effect refers to some gas law that states that as pressure decreases rapidly temperature drops also or some *suitcase*. it does not apply to material shrinkage/expansion.

 

i would say that something else is causing your problems but i would need more info. can you cycle it manually using the charging handle easily? is everything clean and lubed? are you using a new tank of green gass/propane?

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Well, let's put it this way then....

 

Before shooting: bolt assembly moves back and forth freely and easily if pushed by hand, not much resistance on the nozzle.

 

After shooting 3 mags on semi: gun starts to slow down it's cycle to a crawl. I immediately open the receiver and check the bolt assembly. The bolt assembly does NOT move back and forth freely if pushed by hand, much resistance around the outside of the nozzle, outer o-ring on the nozzle is sort of 'frozen looking', and both the outside of the bolt, nozzle, and the brass cylinder have frozen condensation on them. The bolt is really cold by this time. Again, this is inside at a room temp of 70 degrees.

 

After letting gun 'warm' for a while: bolt assembly with nozzle again moves freely back and forth if pushed by hand, and gun cycles normally.

 

And yes, EVERYTHING that moves is lubed, and I'm using a full tank of propane (figured that one out already).

 

So go figure. What would be you conclusion then?

Edited by Torque

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