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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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For that price I think it's just an original trigger pack with their custom parts allready installed...

 

But if that is the case, why sell it so cheap ? I mean, i paid more just for the valve kocker and firing pin alone ...

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Could people owning and having installed the stinger hop up could post their setup up? It looks like I just can't find the best setup... currently I have the thick rubber + paper shim but living on an appartement makes it difficult to test it directly...

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+1 on post above.

I've installed stinger, rubber and one paper shim, but can't get the hop to quite "bite" as it should with 0.28 and need to add moar shims. I live in a bit of a peculiar location and can only shoot outside like once a week. So, any info on how you guise have shimmed or done with the stinger set would be really appreciated.

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I used the rubber, paper shim then I got some 200gsm card/paper and cut a tiny square approx 1.5mm x 1.5mm and placed that on top of the paper shim. It turned my stinger hop from completely useless to fairly good (although it is still no match for a standard TM AEG hop setup).

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hello guys i'm so tired on searching in the forum so.......does anybody here experience a problem when the selector is on semi it shoots full auto( upgraded to a tsc steel trigger set hammer,sear and trigger)what are the solution?

 

thanks

Edited by alyaspogi

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upgraded to a tsc steel trigger set hammer,sear and trigger

That's your problem. Plenty have experience the same with the TSC parts. The angles where the hammer and trigger meet are wrong and slip causing full auto. You have to file the surfaces correcting the angles to more acute ones. Whatever you do, don't decrease their length, just fix the angle.

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That's your problem. Plenty have experience the same with the TSC parts. The angles where the hammer and trigger meet are wrong and slip causing full auto. You have to file the surfaces correcting the angles to more acute ones. Whatever you do, don't decrease their length, just fix the angle.

 

+1

 

Bought a set, 50€ right to the garbage bin <_<

 

If you want an upgraded trigger set, consider getting these http://www.tacticalquartermaster.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=52_57_60&products_id=716 . They function right from the box, use the original metal sleeves tough since although the kit comes with two metal sleeves, they are both the small type that goes with the hammer, the trigger metal sleeve is a bit bigger/larger. It will function with the small metal sleeve on the trigger but since it is smaller it will move the sear forward/upwards just a mm and the trigger will get "stuck" on semi ( you'll have to push forward a bit the trigger to release it ) cause the sear will catch the hammer when you pull the trigger back and will not release it when you release the trigger.

 

I at first thought it was due to the sear/hammer and tried to file it to correct the problem, just when i ruined two perfect good parts, i found out that it was the metal sleeve that was causing that problem :unsure::D

Anyway,they are a bit expensive but i have 5 of them and they are all functioning correctly and don't show any significant wear even after a few thousands rounds on CO2 ;)

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Yo folks, been on vacation

 

Quick question: has anyone gotten the mcmaster numbers for the various magazine O rings? (not the big square one)?

 

Have about 15 magazines I need to de-leak...

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I'm posting this in all the WE GBBr topics let's say as a call for help. Do moind that the brass tube itself is the same for all the WE platform : I don't mind the brass tube even as a left-hander... the only thing that makes me disliking the brass tube is the bad hop up. I'm that unhappy with it that I even began "designing" my own... http://www.gasguns.i...php?f=55&t=3708 any input and idea's would come inhandy. If WE doesn't come with it, we will have to do it ourselfsrolleyes.gif

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I just ordered my WE GBB M4. Could someone tell me briefly what parts i should replace with reinforced ones right in the beginning. I know i have to replace the Charging handle and the bolt catch, but what else?

I know i would probably find out what parts i should replace if i would read this whole topic, but i just don't have the time to read all the posts, forgive my laziness :unsure:

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I'm posting this in all the WE GBBr topics let's say as a call for help. Do moind that the brass tube itself is the same for all the WE platform : I don't mind the brass tube even as a left-hander... the only thing that makes me disliking the brass tube is the bad hop up. I'm that unhappy with it that I even began "designing" my own... http://www.gasguns.i...php?f=55&t=3708 any input and idea's would come inhandy. If WE doesn't come with it, we will have to do it ourselfsrolleyes.gif

 

WE have a no brass conversion kit in the work. The PDW has already been released with the tube removed as far as i know (on ehobbyasia i believe)

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James at WETTI has said several times that there WILL be conversion kits for the PDW, I have a few on order ATM, there is nothing official I am aware of regarding any other WE models (apart from the M14 but there is no conversion involved)

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Talking to William at AirsoftBuddy, he believes WETTI will release the same open bolt system used in the new PDW as an upgrade to the existing M4/16 platform. No official word from WETTI though, or a release date, so could just be a rumor at this point, who knows...

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WE have a no brass conversion kit in the work. The PDW has already been released with the tube removed as far as i know (on ehobbyasia i believe)

 

The only thing I would like to do is to modify the brass chamber so it can take AEG hop up rubber and barrel... especially for those who aren't interested in the open bolt business

Edited by Ian24

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I know i have to replace the Charging handle and the bolt catch, but what else?

If you're really getting new stock, you might not need to replace anything for a while. They already come with the reinforced charging handle and bolt stop which were known to break easily on older rifles. If anything, I say you should get a spare 59 and 66 as these are parts they haven't touched yet which are still known to break in time. Things like a worn hammer and trigger you could actually sort out yourself with a file when it does happen, same as the bolt carrier getting rounded at the corner causing the bolt stop to slip.

 

About the no brass or "open bolt" conversion, I remember seeing a new magazine lip and rubber design needed for the installation as the original ones are curved to accommodate the cylindrical brass tube whereas the new one has to be flat like on typical GBB handguns as it requires the nozzle to slide on and off the surface of the mag.

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Hi i need some help with my new hk 416. the gun works fine in general but when i fire semi it will only fire once after that i need to half move the selector to safe before i hear a click and it will fire again. it has no issues firing on auto. if anybody has any ideas I'd be very grateful.

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Last week I stopped by Blowback Armory in Milpitas, CA. I had no idea that there was a dedicated WE shop in the U.S., let alone one in an area I worked in all the time! The guys there were really cool and pretty much know the WE GBBRs inside and out--they make their own valve assembly which looked great (couldn't get them to sell me one, they are currently all spoken for).

 

I picked up a Stinger hopup and a few misc. parts; along with a tip that the bolt assembly of my 1st gen WEM4 might be causing my problems with nozzle breakage. Does anyone have an old M4 with an upgraded bolt; or any thoughts on the old bolts being out of alignment? I thought that alignment had more to do with positioning of the valve rod.

 

Is the current bolt assembly in stock anywhere?

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