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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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OUCH! I'm starting to worry about my stack of early GG mags; were you using funny propellant or did you leave it in a hot car maybe?

 

I was using Guarder Powerful Gas ( which looking at my chrono readings puts it at the same power as ET-1600 ). One minute i was filling the mag the other i had my ears buzzing and had mag bits EVERYWHERE! :D:yikes: Which of course made me check if i had all my body parts in the same place as before :lol:

I posted this before but ...

 

img0029kp.jpg

 

So if you have a Gen 1 mag, DO NOT fill with anything stronger than Green Gas :D

 

I make extensive use of CO2 on my M16 ( either from the mags or from external rig ) and my 4 prong Ra-Tech valve with the tip sanded and with the rubber seal mod, is still working after many thousand rounds.

Edited by danielsilva

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If you have that very faint leak from the top where the gas normally comes out, and your main o-ring is intact, chances are the forward sealing o-ring has shrunk or has some kind of damage on it. Since this o-ring is kinda small and has an even smaller ledge to hold on to, I find liquid sealants to have little effect. For this I wrap about 4" worth of half the width of ptfe tape (using full width may be too thick). Just wrap it around paying attention to the orientation of rotation when you tighten the valve back in so the tape doesn't undo itself. Pack the tape tightly mostly forwards of the o-ring and a couple turns on the o-ring itself. Basically you're making the tape into a kind of spacer so the o-ring seals tightly against the ledge in the mag. Do not get any of the tape inside the valve opening because the pressure from a shot will unravel the tape. On one of my mags I've replaced the o-ring (torn) entirely with ptfe tape and seems to work just as well.

RIMG2374.jpg

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OK; I remember your mag now. FYI, AEX San Diego showed me a CO2 mag that they said exploded right on their workbench, at room temperature!

Thanks for the tips on the mags; got a list of O-ring sizes? I've used a variety pack in the past, but my local hardware stores sells the better o-rings individually wrapped in hundreds of sizes.

 

Does anyone else have excessive friction between the large O-ring on the nozzle and the brass chamber with the NPAS? The gun is working fine but just seems really tight, and I've actually polished the inside of the brass chamber.

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I've had a quick look and used the search button, but I can't go through 341 pages to find the answer to this.

 

Does anyone know of a URX style front end that will fit my WE M4? I've had it a fair while now and want to play with the externals as I'm getting bored of the current layout.

 

Thanks guys. :)

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Do you guys know of any retailer that stocks enough parts for me to build a second complete upper receiver? I've already got an upper receiver host, but no parts. Oh and if it's worth mentioning, the receiver was from the V1 days.

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Does anyone know where to buy part 68 in the UK?

 

or instead of that does the real steal ones work?

 

Care to remind me which part is that ? Don't have any diagram laying around ...

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Sorry to ask if this has already been covered, but which Magpul UBR stock fits the WE M4A1/HK416 without modification?

 

I've been reading through pages of info on this site and can't find a definitive answer.

 

Does the PTS version fit without modification?

 

Do I need the RS version?

 

I can't get a straight answer out of the dealers so I've come to the experts!!

 

Thanks

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Can't say anything about the RS one cause i never tried one ( too darn expensive around here ) but it *should* fit without any mods. The PTS on the other hand DOES need fitting, can't remember what i exactly had to do but it wasn't something simple to do.

In the end i got the Element copy of it and i only had to file somethings to fit it, they aren't that great in QC/specs so each unit will have to be filled accordingly.

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I have fitted the PTS and the ELEMENT UBR and the ELEMENT takes less work but needs ekstra parts (screws are short and long) the PTS one needs a lot of work on the threads of the buffer tube, and on both you need to cut down the rubber spacer under the buffer spring, all in all a rather big project, 4-5 houres.

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to we m4 gurus:

 

my full auto sear seems to have a problem. when the hammer is pulled back, it catches the full auto sear. i have to switch to semi auto then the hammer would release.

 

any ideas?

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to we m4 gurus:

 

my full auto sear seems to have a problem. when the hammer is pulled back, it catches the full auto sear. i have to switch to semi auto then the hammer would release.

 

any ideas?

 

I don't have a WE, but I did have a kjw m4 that was having the same problem. My problem was caused by a foreign object that lodged itself under the sear/selector. An oring blew off my nozzle and landed under there, perhaps that could be your problem to.

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You might bendt it if you force the gun closed on full auto, should be easy to strighten out again, it is one of the few parts that is steel, or a new part will run you a few $.

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Can anyone tell me how to remove the black assembley so i can fit the NPAS kit. All the tutorials are for SCARs and i don't have a clue how to remove the peice as it appears stuck fast. It's the bit that the valve and its pipe go into that is secured into the bolt carrier with a big screw at the back. Cheers.

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Hi, sorry but I don't have the time to read through 340+ pages and I was wondering if the magpul PTS CTR and magpul PTS MOE grip will fit on the WE m4 well?

 

The PTS CTR will fit just fine but the MOE grip for GBB's will have to be modded, they are made for the WA platform and as such they don't come with the hole for the selector detent spring ( like the RS one ), the "space" is there but you'll need to drill the hole yourself ;)

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