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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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Work perfectly, WE? You sure that's even possible?

 

Tough call hmm. Probably going to settle for the 416 for now as it was the first one I had and I know the bolt should be sweet when I swap over that bolt release.

Mine did(m4, pdw), except for the bolt not tripping the auto sear cause its bent.

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Neither of mine are new and have their issues but I don't see it as a problem. In fact I look forward to tinkering with them to get them running sweet even if I am new to GBB. Seems far simpler than AEGs at any rate.

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Well the main one was semi on the 416 would often shoot a couple of rounds per trigger pull, but since pulled that box out and replaced with a spare my flatmate had (so now have that dodgy spare and a brand new one from my OB kit). I've not actually had internals for it as OB until today though so will see what teething problems (if any) surface.

 

SPR seems a little sluggish to cycle but I reckon I've not cleaned it out and lubed it sufficiently to make it smooth. I think the nozzle rails need a little bit of shaving too to help it return properly. Then it took half of one of my feed lips off but that might've been a problem with the mag.

 

Need an actual range day though to try and test range/set the hop. Gives me something to do thougg on days off.

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Burst sounds like the disconnector maybe the firing pin. Sluggishness maybe dirty, could be a bad oring on the nozzle. I've had a problem with the return spring pin not seat all the way and carved a groove in the upper.

 

Try a different charging handle, I've heard that one can cause a headache.

 

The top roller on the gas key maybe sticking. See if you can use a marker and find odd wear patterns.

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I see RA Tech has made a new 2015 version steel bolt for the WE M4 series. More realistic gas key component (double hex socket screws), a steel bolt catch included and lower price it seems.

 

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=570_573&products_id=22029&zenid=26egnl3b49gc7aa2od1n5579h6

Edited by NonEx

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My WE M4 in its current configuration :D

 

Still love it!

 

 

nx_we_m4_ls.png

 

nx_we_m4_rs.png

 

 

I had a lot of WE GBBRs over the years, but the M4 is the one I have kept. WE G39C, mweh, don't like the platform. PDW, cool, but felt kinda under developed and very similar to WE M4. WE ACR, felt like a heavier, bulkier and less adaptable version of the M4. WE SCAR, have not owned but have handled, same as MSK pretty much, lighter than ACR though.

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I was one of the first to get the WE CB M4 and went through buckets of money to tune it up I was ready to abandon the platform altogether as it was plagued with so much problems.

 

However with the OB platform, comparing against WA type systems (Ino, Viper, WA, AGM G&P), KWA and then the VFC (which, don't get me wrong its a great gun just a lack of kick), the WE is a fantastic platform for the price and the little amount spent on it to function.  KWA is great also but for the price I can get 2 WEs.

 

SCAR, G36 and M4 are good, problem is that it does require some knowhow to tune them (e.g. barrel bushing issues on the G36 and M4s, hop issues generic on all WE OBs, G36 has no free float which makes the gun change zero as it fires. M4s have inherent issues with buffer detent design causing more friction on the bolt carrier, M4s also have the unnecessary bearing that results in bolt tilt etc..etc..)  PDW I would probably not get one though.

 

I just bought a 2nd hand M16VN, and after fixing all the problems and manufacturing faults that it has (issues highlighted above, plus 20 round mag issues with feed lips not aligned in magazine pushing the blowback unit upwards increasing wear on the bolt retainer), its functioning great, cycles smooth as silk on the 20 round mags. 

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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I apologise as this question has probably been asked numerous times in this thread but it's massive...

 

Finally got the angrygun CNC hop chamber on order, what rubber should I use with it? Maple leaf 70° or 75°? Also do the maple leaf rubbers come with nubs as I'be heard various things? It's going to be a sub 350fps rifle with 10 inch barrel probably paired with an Angrygun 6.03 barrel unless something else is recommended.

 

Can't wait to try it out next month.

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They do not. Some used to but I'm not sure where you can get them.

 

For the fps range I'd go 70*, I had one in my old m4 and with .28g I could headshot at 200' with just under 350 fps.

 

Best effective range was about 250' and after that was a shoot. I did not get much l/r deviations and I ran a m4a1 rat tbb.

Edited by Alias1983

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Well I will have to try and rescue the nub fron my current hop unit (screw holding the two halves together stripped >.>)

Edited by Tw1tch

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Sub 350 FPS would be the yellow 60 one. I actually have one of each inbound, Decipticon and Autobot yellow 60 rubbers for my WE A1A Glock. Gonna see if I can notice any difference. 

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Has anyone experienced the auto sear bending to a point that when you charge your WE M4 the bolt locks halfway..??

I have had this issue lately, resulting in opening the gun taking it all apart to bend the auto sear back. But after a few rounds the unit bends out of place again resulting in failure!

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c30a65028d464e3d801911f36cb84212.jpg

 

Usually stuck bolts are because the buffer tube is not in the right spot.

 

I bent my sear from bolt over travel (don't take the spacer out of your buffer tube).

 

Is the buffer lock cap screwed in far enough? I had my bolt get stuck on that.

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[quote name="Alias1983"

 

Usually stuck bolts are because the buffer tube is not in the right spot.

 

I bent my sear from bolt over travel (don't take the spacer out of your buffer tube).

 

Is the buffer lock cap screwed in far enough? I had my bolt get stuck on that.

 

Buffer lock cap? Whats that?

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http://www.evike.com/products/31726/

 

Middle left, silver screw, black thing then large gray screw.

 

That black thing goes over the buffer detent and screws into the lower receive.

 

You use a screwdriver, push the detent down and unscrew ccw.

 

http://www.milspecsolutions.co.uk/we-m4-buffer-retainer-post-assembly.html

 

I have never heard of this coming loose but when I switched to an afc lower I could not screw it in all the way and it caused the bolt to get hung up on it.

 

A real buffer tube actually holds the detent in the lower. Most just drill the threads out and run a real detent and buffer tube.

 

If you zoom in on my pic above you can see the cap is not all the way in because the AFC lower is different from standard we lowers in the one instance.

Edited by Alias1983

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