WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

[-l-]

Happy new years guys . Here is some news about WE after market parts.

It is a new roller bearing replacing the one on top of the bolt carrier. It the product of GS(Gun Shop), t the product of GS(Gun Shop), a new airsoft customization studio. They are keeping an open mind on product or design suggestion. The Roller bearing should cost between $10-15usd only.

 

I met one of the GS engineer by chance on a skirmish yesterday. I suggested to him make a DD MK18 RIS II "Barrel ring(the ring that replace the barrel nut)" for WE, so that we replica users can fit our DD rail on the M4 happily. He reply me with a Email saying that it is not a bad idea and they could get their hands on it when they got the measurement of the real steel DD Barrel ring(nut).

 

 

HKC Omega replica on WE

Edited January 5, 2009 by -l-

[Horsem4n]

i would also like a Larue style barrel nut if that's possible. i want a Larue style rail, but i'm afraid the barrel nut in the ACM AEG kit isn't correctly threaded, as everyone is with the DD barrel nut.

 

whats the purpose of the bearing? the gun has no problem cycling. i guess it couldn't hurt though.

 

i wonder how much longer its going to take the CO2 mags to show up?

Edited January 5, 2009 by Horsem4n

[-l-]

i would also like a Larue style barrel nut if that's possible. i want a Larue style rail, but i'm afraid the barrel nut in the ACM AEG kit isn't correctly threaded, as everyone is with the DD barrel nut.

 

whats the purpose of the bearing? the gun has no problem cycling. i guess it couldn't hurt though.

 

i wonder how much longer its going to take the CO2 mags to show up?

Is it this one you referring to?

 

The roller bearing allow the bolt carrier to run with less drag,I think it shares the same idea of putting ball bearing in a AEG's gear box.

[Horsem4n]

yes, that's the nut i'm referring to.

 

yeah, ball bearings are always good, but it just seems like you would be paying to much for a rather small enhancement even though it is cheap.

in a gearbox, less drag is all too ideal in the bushings cause it creates less heat in a very important part. but this part is not as imperative that it works flawlessly as the gun would function fine if the wheel seized up altogether and would be able to be serviced later after the game ends but when a bushing fails, the entire gearbox fails with it (and here lies the beauty of gas guns). so yes, it shares the same benefits, but are vastly different in the scale of importance.

Edited January 5, 2009 by Horsem4n

[-l-]

yes, that's the nut i'm referring to.

 

yeah, ball bearings are always good, but it just seems like you would be paying to much for a rather small enhancement even though it is cheap.

in a gearbox, less drag is all too ideal in the bushings cause it creates less heat in a very important part. but this part is not as imperative that it works flawlessly as the gun would function fine if the wheel seized up altogether and would be able to be serviced later after the game ends but when a bushing fails, the entire gearbox fails with it (and here lies the beauty of gas guns). so yes, it shares the same benefits, but are vastly different in the scale of importance.

Yeah, I agree with you on the little difference on performance, since none of us really done a test to contrast the difference. Anyway, at least we know where to get a replacement roller, if something bad happed to our original one

[Horsem4n]

yep, always nice to have replacement parts that are better than the originals.

[Kai_Wolf]

It makes me wonder though if that replacement roller will really make a difference in the speed of the bolt cycle, or as you said, produce less drag. I hope that a test or video comes out soon, but I suppose one wouldnt be able to tell the difference unless they felt it.

[Kai_Wolf]

Hey guys, I am having an issue with the blowback on the m4 once again, but I THINK I may have found the issue. If anyone else has experience in this, please let me know if it seems right.

 

The gun, especially on Auto, has been venting a lot of gas, and the blowback is no where near crisp anymore. I thought it was the temp, but today is not a cold day at all. The bolt seems to be having issues going back far enough, as if it were cold, and few times I shot today, it vented all the gas out the ejection port and the barrel. I noticed that on the nozzle, there is a rather large O ring, and mine has a bit of tearing on it. It hasnt seperated, but has some spots where the rubber is jagged and cut. This is what it looks like.

 

 

Im already planning on purchasing more from AB, as I have emailed him already, but could this logically be the cause of the venting and poor cycling? I didnt know if this was a more significant ring to the blowback itself or to something else.

[Horsem4n]

that may be it, but check the oring inside that valve too, just to be sure. is that part you circled just an oring or some special rubber part? cause it would be better to replace it with a good regular oring from your hardware store. just try to match the size as good as you can and then let us know the size. orings go out whenever they feel like it, especially one that appear in chinese gas guns, its best to replace them with ones from the US but replacing them with a straight replacement part is fine, but has a larger window of failure.

[3vi1-D4n]

The O-ring is actually a sleeve. Mines shredded & worn.

 

The reason on auto the blowback seizes up is because the rubber shrinks as the cold gas is passed onto it. It constricts the O-ring and hence makes it tighten, so it increases friction on the blowback nozzle. Semi-auto is fine.

 

As for converting the gun to semi, its a 5min job, you take out the selector and there is a part that sticks out in the middle, and file that down till its flat with the rest of that surface.

 

My WE M4 has died, the floating valve has destroyed itself around 5000 rounds. I Emailed airsoftbuddy about it, and he said he was looking for the parts. If its possible to get an entire blowback assembly, who do I contact?

[Kai_Wolf]

That may be true, and I will give that a try! I cant tell from my gun beacuse it is deformed, but I am afraid it might be a flat shaped Oring type. Even in the picture, it seems as if it might flare out or something. Im hoping that replacing it with a US round oring may help. If anyone can figure out if this works before I do, please let us Know and the Oring size as well.

[OKane22]

i just received mine in the mail, you can unscrew the orange tip right? i am having some major difficulties with that

[Kai_Wolf]

So it is the sleeve that is shrinking and causing it to seize up? Or another O ring?My gun didnt do that before, so I dont know what is wrong with it. Also, somewhere someone said AB is going to be providing all of the bolt's internals for 16 dollars soon.

 

 

The O-ring is actually a sleeve. Mines shredded & worn.

 

The reason on auto the blowback seizes up is because the rubber shrinks as the cold gas is passed onto it. It constricts the O-ring and hence makes it tighten, so it increases friction on the blowback nozzle. Semi-auto is fine.

 

As for converting the gun to semi, its a 5min job, you take out the selector and there is a part that sticks out in the middle, and file that down till its flat with the rest of that surface.

 

My WE M4 has died, the floating valve has destroyed itself around 5000 rounds. I Emailed airsoftbuddy about it, and he said he was looking for the parts. If its possible to get an entire blowback assembly, who do I contact?

 

 

 

Update: I just removed the rubber sleeve/O ring and it seems to be a simple rubber washer, not so much an Oring, like you said. The gun still fires without it, and still has an awful full auto and awful semi shooting performance after 3 or f4 shots. Im not sure if that washer actually sealed anything, or if it was so ripped and worn that removing it now didnt really make a difference in the seal as it wasnt holding gas back in the first place. I was expecting it to vent and hiss.

 

The two other smaller visible O rings seem to be doing fine. This has got me stumped.

 

 

 

Second Update: Success! I took the advice and went digging through my old GBB box and found some random piston head that was included with my MEU PGC kit. I took the thick O ring off of that and put it on the spot where the sleeve used to be. The gun now shoots harder (in recoil) than ever before. I regret not knowing the size. Im going to pick some extras up soon, I will let you know.

Edited January 5, 2009 by Kai_Wolf

[Chris North]

Uhh, where's the rest of the thread?

 

I'm not the only one that can't see it, right?

 

Edit: What the hell just happened? Now it looks like everything's back to normal...

 

 

 

Edit 2: Well anyway, about how long does it take Airsoft Buddy to reply to emails nowadays? I know I'm supposed to be patient, but I'm too excited.

Edited January 5, 2009 by Chris North

[Horsem4n]

awesome news kai!

[4boost]

i just received mine in the mail, you can unscrew the orange tip right? i am having some major difficulties with that

 

Stick the barrel extension in a vice, make sure you wrap it with something so you don't damage it. Put a screwdriver or an allen key through one of the holes and twist off. This is what I had to do with mine as I couldn't for the life of me get it off by hand.

 

 

So it is the sleeve that is shrinking and causing it to seize up? Or another O ring?My gun didnt do that before, so I dont know what is wrong with it. Also, somewhere someone said AB is going to be providing all of the bolt's internals for 16 dollars soon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Update: I just removed the rubber sleeve/O ring and it seems to be a simple rubber washer, not so much an Oring, like you said. The gun still fires without it, and still has an awful full auto and awful semi shooting performance after 3 or f4 shots. Im not sure if that washer actually sealed anything, or if it was so ripped and worn that removing it now didnt really make a difference in the seal as it wasnt holding gas back in the first place. I was expecting it to vent and hiss.

 

The two other smaller visible O rings seem to be doing fine. This has got me stumped.

 

 

 

Second Update: Success! I took the advice and went digging through my old GBB box and found some random piston head that was included with my MEU PGC kit. I took the thick O ring off of that and put it on the spot where the sleeve used to be. The gun now shoots harder (in recoil) than ever before. I regret not knowing the size. Im going to pick some extras up soon, I will let you know.

 

My seal is not looking good either. Btw, it's technically not an o-ring, I think it's called a cup seal. I could be wrong. In any case, I went to home depot and lowes and couldn't find anything that would work. Please post a picture of the seal you put in.

 

Instead of a roller bearing....I think GS should look into a heftier seal and possibly make a better firing pin mechanism.

[Horsem4n]

and possibly make a better firing pin mechanism.

we have a fix, but your right. they should.

[Kai_Wolf]

It is indeed a cup seal. The Oring seems to be performing a bit better than the cup seal did, even when it worked, at least in my case. I will try to post a side by side comparison of the two tomorrow if I get the time.

[Cephas]

Does any know how to take the magazines apart? I have been looking for some sort of diagram but can't find one. I just go my mags today and they leak.

[codegeek2004]

i have disassembled mine 3 times (mostly for *suitcases* and giggles)...its fairly straight foward. i think the smallest piece on the mag i the fill valve.....so not many small parts to loose

[4boost]

Does any know how to take the magazines apart? I have been looking for some sort of diagram but can't find one. I just go my mags today and they leak.

 

Have you tried dropping some oil into them?

 

Where is the leak coming from?

 

To get the gas chamber out of the casing, do the following:

• Slide the floor plate off the bottom

• Take out the screw that holds the mag casing to the gas chamber

• Slide the gas chamber out of the casing

[Cephas]

Do I drop oil from the bottom where you charge the magazine or from the top valve? It seems my magazines are leaking from the top.

[4boost]

Do I drop oil from the bottom where you charge the magazine or from the top valve? It seems my magazines are leaking from the top.

 

You can remove the fill valve at the bottom and put a few drops directly into the gas chamber. Your mag is probably leaking around the top of the gas chamber cover. If the oil doesn't work, you'll have to take that cover off, dab some silicon around the seal and tighten it all back down.

 

If you want to find out where it is leaking from, fill your sink with a little bit of water and dip the area you think has the leak. Where there are bubbles...there is a leak. You can also use soapy water if you don't want to dip your mags in the sink. Just rub some over the area and the soap will bubble up where the leak is.

 

By doing this you'll be able to determine if the valve is leaking or if it is indeed the seal from the gas chamber cover.

[Horsem4n]

check back at around page 40-50. theres a few pages about the mags. when they are new, they leak. if you run some silicon through the mag the leaking will stop on its own.

 

so, put some lube in the mag, fill with gas and run it through your gun. keep at it until the leak goes away.

Edited January 6, 2009 by Horsem4n

[IBICO]

I usually put Vaseline in the tip of filling valve and then press just a tad gas in the mag.. Then put more Vaseline and repeat a few times. Then you would get Vaseline inside the mag and help seal it.

 

Worked on a few pistol mags I got.