Kai_Wolf Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 Hey guys, I was able to get EB to switch my order and instead of getting the DD style lite rail, Im getting the omega. It looks like this. http://ebaybanned.com/product_info.php?products_id=1707 I know other people have fitted simular designs of the omega on their WE's. Has anyone else used this one? I wanted to know if it was a drop in fit since it uses the delta ring. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) From fitting the Element LaRue RAS used on the WE, if it fits a marui compatible M4, it will fit the WE. Only thing I had to do was to drill out the RAS for the gas tube to fit. Shockingly if that is the case, if the WE is 100% Real steel accessories compatible, then the Element RAS's will also fit the real steel. Edited January 8, 2009 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Edit: Rottenotto... Leaving the receiver on shouldn't hurt anything. Did it with mine because like you said, there is no good way to get leverage on it otherwise. Hey Boost - just letting you know, putting it in the vice worked. I wrapped the barrel with a leather belt, clamped it, and twisted it off. It took a TON of clamping to hold it. Once off, there was a white residue on the threads - looked like a thread locker from the factory. It was ON there. Thanks again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Hey guys, I was able to get EB to switch my order and instead of getting the DD style lite rail, Im getting the omega. It looks like this. http://ebaybanned.com/product_info.php?products_id=1707 I know other people have fitted simular designs of the omega on their WE's. Has anyone else used this one? I wanted to know if it was a drop in fit since it uses the delta ring. Kai? Did you ask them if it comes with trades?? It doesnt show the trades in the pic, - but most pics of this particular rail I see coming from Hong Kong (on other sites) have the trademarks. Just wondering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cephas Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Well I have had my WE m4 for a few days now and here's what I have come up with. This gun is really good but has a few naging issues that stop it from being great. Everyone here knows most of the good stuff, so I'll state the issues that could be improved. 1. The rubber flat washer in the bolt carrier needs to be replaced. After a few hundred shots mine shredded and began to tear, thus not letting the bb get adequate force behind it. I went to Home Depot and found " Flat Washer 3/16" 48 Neoprene Rubber" theres 4 pieces. The hole in the rubber was a tad small for the bolt carrier so I dremeled it slowly and now it works like a charm. 2. I bought 13 magazines. They all leaked badly. So I figure I'll open one up and try to massage the rubbers and spray some silicone in. I removed the back plate because it was leaking gas at the top, big mistake. Once I remoed the back plate and rubber gasket I found it impossible to get back on again. Lesson learned. On the rest of my mags I tightened the fill valve and removed the valves on the top. Once I removed the top valves I removed the middle o-ring, massaged and sprayed silicone on it. Then put everything back together. Today I let them sit in the sun a little bit so they could expand a bit. No more leaks. 3. The bolt stop was working fine the first few days. Today I discovered that my bolt won't lock back. My bolt stop is fine, it's the upgraded steel version. I thought that the bolt wasn't traveling back enough due to the ripped rubber flat washer. But even when I pull the charging handle back with an empty mag it still won't lock back. I found that the little metal piece that comes up from the mag, which is suppose to push the bolt stop and lock the bolt back is too short. It doesn't push the bolt stop far enough in order for the bolt to lock. I have yet to come up with any solution for this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Im not sure if ti has trades or not, however, from seeing other DD Omega replicas on the market, all the trades are on the other side of the rail. So I couldnt say if the one I ordered has them. Im crossing my fingers though. Im just hoping EB actually DID switch my order, and arent pulling my leg. Kai? Did you ask them if it comes with trades?? It doesnt show the trades in the pic, - but most pics of this particular rail I see coming from Hong Kong (on other sites) have the trademarks. Just wondering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris North Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 (edited) <snip> Can definitely agree that the WE has a few problems, but I wouldn't call them nagging, since almost all are easily fixed. I've only just received mine (Thanks poison!), and it's a third-hand original model. I've read of the rubber washer tearing, but what does it look like it tears on? The inside of the piston looks pretty smooth, and when I looked briefly at mine it doesn't look like the head leaves the piston. There was also a solution posted a few pages back (I couldn't find it) which mentioned using a TM 1911 piston head o-ring. It seems like all GBBs have the same inner cylinder diameter... Does the bolt catch work when you press it manually? I've also read something about this a few pages back, but no fix AFAIK... EDIT: Never mind, just had a look and the piston head does leave the cylinder. Thinking of it now I guess it would have to in order to release the expanding gas. Still though, does the cylinder end look sharp at all? If it tears again the end might need some work or something... Edited January 9, 2009 by Chris North Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cephas Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Yes when I manually press it the bolt locks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carsten Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 .. then the mag-pins can't be too short, or am I wrong? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Sorry I havent posted it up yet, school is starting soon and all so it is super busy. However it was not a stock TM Piston ring from the piston head. It is the much thicker ring from a PGC MEU Kit's piston head. I am very sure it is an Oring that can be purchased at a hardware store, and seems to seal much better than the washer did. Can definitely agree that the WE has a few problems, but I wouldn't call them nagging, since almost all are easily fixed. I've only just received mine (Thanks poison!), and it's a third-hand original model. I've read of the rubber washer tearing, but what does it look like it tears on? The inside of the piston looks pretty smooth, and when I looked briefly at mine it doesn't look like the head leaves the piston. There was also a solution posted a few pages back (I couldn't find it) which mentioned using a TM 1911 piston head o-ring. It seems like all GBBs have the same inner cylinder diameter... Does the bolt catch work when you press it manually? I've also read something about this a few pages back, but no fix AFAIK... EDIT: Never mind, just had a look and the piston head does leave the cylinder. Thinking of it now I guess it would have to in order to release the expanding gas. Still though, does the cylinder end look sharp at all? If it tears again the end might need some work or something... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Got the ACM DD rail installed. Had to shave about an 1/8" off the barrel nut. The stock is a King Arms Mod stock I had. Fits better than the WE as it is more snug and doesn't bounce around. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cephas Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 When I say "manually", I mean I have to manipulate the bolt stop and pull it away from the reciever with my fingers in order for the bolt to lock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Can definitely agree that the WE has a few problems, but I wouldn't call them nagging, since almost all are easily fixed. I've only just received mine (Thanks poison!), and it's a third-hand original model. I've read of the rubber washer tearing, but what does it look like it tears on? The inside of the piston looks pretty smooth, and when I looked briefly at mine it doesn't look like the head leaves the piston. There was also a solution posted a few pages back (I couldn't find it) which mentioned using a TM 1911 piston head o-ring. It seems like all GBBs have the same inner cylinder diameter... Does the bolt catch work when you press it manually? I've also read something about this a few pages back, but no fix AFAIK... EDIT: Never mind, just had a look and the piston head does leave the cylinder. Thinking of it now I guess it would have to in order to release the expanding gas. Still though, does the cylinder end look sharp at all? If it tears again the end might need some work or something... Hi Chris Its not that it leaves the cylinder. The washer is getting wasted by the bolt smashing forward on every stroke. If you remove your bolt and look down the hop tube from the rear of the receiver, you will see a machined area that is raised, just before the gas inlet port. The inner diameter is in effect reduced creating a flat sealing area. The flat rubber washer seals against this brass "lip", or raised area. Each time the bolt returns forward, it is sandwiched between the heavy bolt and the sharp brass edge. The outer most edge seals against this lip and is taking the abuse. Yes, you can find something that may work at the hardware store (this is what we did in the 80's/90's with the classic guns - "make do")..........but........... We need to get Airsoft Buddy on the horn - lets order at least 100 of these for the forum. We can get them here and distribute them among the members for actual cost. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 I'm down. Lol I'll take 20. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulB Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 3. The bolt stop was working fine the first few days. Today I discovered that my bolt won't lock back. My bolt stop is fine, it's the upgraded steel version. I thought that the bolt wasn't traveling back enough due to the ripped rubber flat washer. But even when I pull the charging handle back with an empty mag it still won't lock back. I found that the little metal piece that comes up from the mag, which is suppose to push the bolt stop and lock the bolt back is too short. It doesn't push the bolt stop far enough in order for the bolt to lock. I have yet to come up with any solution for this. 2 of my 6 mags had this problem. I removed the internal from the mag case and siliconed the moving part of the 'little metal piece' put it all back together and now it protrudes enough to lock back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulB Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Whilst here i would like to add i have had first class service from William and am confident that if a problem does arise, he will help out. I ordered a version one on the 2nd December it arrived in the UK on the 15th, customs held it till 31st and i received it yesterday. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 I'm down. Lol I'll take 20. Lets hit up AB with emails.....I have sent an email (no reply yet) Please, each of you, write an email asking for replacement rubber washers.....if enough ask, he will end up providing them on the website. Im imagining a "replacement pack, 5 washers, $5.95" ...something like that. But the squeaky wheel gets the grease,....so lets all write. I want to see a good flow of spare parts for these guns so we can keep them running. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 I asked William already. He replied stating 10 washers is about 5.95, plus 5 dollars shipping to VA, where I am. Also, I meant to ask. Im noticing issues with the accuracy of the gun. Im still awaiting .30's to come in, so the hop up is still an issue, but I have the AFC version of the gun. After cleaning out my barrel, I took some shots with .25's and the spread is bad. It vears off to the left a lot and Im not sure why. The barrel is clean and sometimes, even with the hop up all the way up, the bb will shoot very low, then shoot high the next shot. Any Ideas? Im not sure if it is just beacuse of the weight of the bb I am using or not. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Let us know if you come up with a solution, I seem to be having the same issues you are. LOL! .43???? Thats not a solution at all! Yikes. Hey 3vi1-D4n,.....a big 'thank you' bud. Im going to take it apart tonight and see what can be done. Your diagram gives me something to digest. Clearly, there is an immediate aftermarket part waiting to be made/sold/offered. An improved hopup bucking! Black rubber would be better than "overly tacticle silicone". That would be a good start. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Hey Kai I am writing another letter now asking for more rubber washers. I think the issue with the hop up rubber is the shape (of the nub) and the material used (silicone). A flat "speed bump" shape (like an AEG) would be better than the perfectly round "dot" of a silicone pad it has in there. The brass loading nozzle has far more "wiggle" or side to side play than an electric loading nozzle. Just the way it is. Sometimes the bb is pushed to the left or right, and it ends up catching the side edge of this silicone "dot" and hooks. Or if by luck, the bb is pushed dead center it flies straight with LOTS of hop, arcing upward. If we did away with this mircroscopic ROUND "dot" of hop surface, and made it a WIDER ridge of hopup (A speed bump), the bbs would fly more consistent - they wouldnt have to hit dead center of that dot. Also, a rubber pad would be an immediate improvement, as it is a less "grippy" material that green silicone (slime). But IDEALLY, the gun should take normal AEG inner barrels, and normal AEG hop up sleeves and bucking. The WE hopup is a nicely imagined, simple design,....it just isnt working out in the real world with "real world" bb weights. (.20/.25) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Oh I see, that does make sense. Im guessing that if WE starts making improved Hop up rubbers, this could be fixed much easier. Im sure they will eventually. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 (edited) Oh I see, that does make sense. Im guessing that if WE starts making improved Hop up rubbers, this could be fixed much easier. Im sure they will eventually. Heres hoping. They have already sold so many of these WE M4's right now and there is a LARGER market waiting to errupt. (Most people I show had ZERO idea this gun walks the Earth) The aftermarket needs to get on it! The first to build a better mouse trap makes all the money. And this gun is brain dead simple to improve upon. One issue that many have, seems to have been solved. When really pushing the gun in full auto, I would get the "venting" or cold smoke rushing out the ejection port. ("freezing up in full auto") As many have discovered, the long op-rod on the gas valve would get stuck. Most assumed that it was the rubber seals constricting with the cold and halting the rod from moving. After taking it apart, there is no way possible it is the rubber washer since it doesnt even touch the silver rod. It is actually the metal parts in the valve/tube themselves constricting and slowing/stopping the rod from moving. The solution was simple - Krytox oil. Unlike silicone or other petroleum lubes, it will still work and perform at wide ranges from -90 to +600 degrees fahrenheit (!). It is a high tech lube (search wikipedia) that leaves a tenacious film that is actually quite hard to remove. It holds up under insane mechanical pressure and laughs at the cold and stress of the WE in full auto. A little goes a long way so you dont need the monsterous bottle I have above. Nor do you need precision applicators. A simple cotton bud will work (Q-tip). Swab it on the rod and wipe it off.....slide the feed nozzle in and out while tuning to get it applied evenly on the entire length of rod. I can now blast through mag after mag in full auto with no venting - the gas valve is allowed to move even when freezing cold and it works properly. As if it were 80 degrees Fahrenheit outside. What I am amazed at is how well the gun is working in this bitter New England cold (21 degrees outside now, 63 in my home)....this gun is going to be a monster in the spring/summer!! Edited January 9, 2009 by rottenotto Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 (edited) Double post - sorry about that! The site was glitching. Edited January 9, 2009 by rottenotto Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cephas Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 Maybe it's just mine but my hop up is just fine with .20 g. I revisted the issue with the bolt not locking again. What I found was that 3 out of my 13 mags had a different shaped bolt activating part when empty. I talking about the part in the mag that comes in direct contact with the bolt stop. The ones that worked came to a triangle at the tip and were a milimeter longer. The ones that continue to dry fire have a sort of rounded edge and were shorter. I'm wondering why the decision to do this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 Maybe it's just mine but my hop up is just fine with .20 g. Want to trade guns? Mine makes it 40 feet then straight up - and that is with .30 KSC bb's! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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