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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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Well if you lock the screw in place with red locktite, it'll be nippy in the place where all the good music is when it comes apart.

 

But I do have to admit that your roll pin solution is quite neat.

 

-Sale

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Well if you lock the screw in place with red locktite, it'll be nippy in the place where all the good music is when it comes apart.

 

 

-Sale

 

Hi Sale!

 

LOL....youre reply is quite colorful, but I am a bit lost! :blush:

 

PS

Red Locktite holding the ground down bolt might fix the issue today but be your worst problem tomorrow.

 

When your ground head begins to round off and lose its "square edge" it wont grab the steel bolt carrier anymore - and will slip right over. Back to square one

 

Now you have to remove a screw with no head or slot for a srew driver or tool (you ground it off) and added to this nightmare removal - you red locktited the bolt/screw down! - ugh.

 

You can simply replace the roll pin at any time with a fresh one. (press out and press in) But I doubt you will ever have to.

 

Edited by rottenotto

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so, the roll pin doesnt slip out of place? what was the size of the hole you drilled?

 

 

Doesnt move one bit.

 

Unless you want it to. You need to press the pin in (not hammer it) with a press, vice, or simple channel lock pliers.

 

If you press it in too far, you can simply reach into the hole on the hook end (for the gas tube) with a flat head screwdriver and leverage it back up to the correct height. Its a no brainer mod that works.

 

A 3/32 roll pin calls for a 3/32 drill bit.

 

The Pin is a tick larger with a split seam to allow compression. Thats how it holds tension in the hole. It wont move.

I waited to post this until I knew it would work - I have charged the handle a thousand times and no evidence of wear on either mating part. Its bomb proof.

 

I am much more confident charging the handle now in all respects - I know the handle isnt going to break, and I now dont worry about everything depending on the strength of JB Weld.

Edited by rottenotto

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Excellent, doing this mod tonight. Thanks otto.

 

 

Hi Boost!

 

Take your time and use a drill press. Dont try using a hand drill, you will likely bugger the piece. Also clamp the handle down when you drill - you dont want that piece to move once you find the magic spot.

 

Also you need to get that roll pin as close to the back edge as you can. Dont get too close or you will blow through the edge of the charging handle with the drill bit, then you are screwed.

 

I used a laser pointer on my drill press and lots of careful "eyeballing".

 

If all goes well, the aluminum will swell just a tick on the backside of the hook when you press the pin in. If so, you did it awesome! Close enough to the edge to put the pin where it needs to be and not too far that you blew through the aluminum.

 

When you pick up the roll pins longer is better - you can cut it down to exactly what you need. It has to be longer than 1/4" but as long as 3/4" is fine too.

 

Also ask for the proper drill bit when you buy the tension pins.

 

To Horsem4n-

 

Good question.

 

I need to see the part first, but if it is a quality CNC part there will be no wear issues between the steel roll pin and the aluminum.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Maybe could we do something else... Someone posted here a comparition shoot betwin the bolt carrier(WA?) and a RS Colt one the front end of the Colt one(where the CH grips the Bolt Carrier) is cylindrical so maybe could add a cylindrical part on the WE's?Like this it'll work just like the RS what do you think about it guys?

 

Edit: this on post #1948

Edited by Eliminator

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^

Hi Eliminator

That is the gas tube cylinder you are refering to, on the pic of the "WA vs RS bolt carrier" comparsion photo.

 

The charging handle is not grabbing that part - that is what the hole in the front portion of the charging handle hook is for. (allows it to pass)

 

On the WA the handle is actually grabbing that square hunk of metal below that tube (in the same photo). Same spot as ours, just a little different.

 

 

 

 

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Is it possible to modify ours a little bit?

 

My M4 also has a trouble: the small part in the nozzle was moving quite freely(noticed it yesterday) Okay I told myself just clean the barel(there where 4-5BB's struck in there) and simply glue that thing in place(glue become at its peack after ~24h) I just tried it back and there is just pressure enough to assure a part of the blow back action but too less to reload...Oh I forgot....When I removed the 4-5BB's from the barel, a steelstring came out too...Do I have to assume my Hop Up is also dead?(I'll order a new "power tune up kit" ASAP but for me it'll not be an upgrade but just a fix while I own the 400+ FPS version) There are no BB's but the 1st one wich leave the barel

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Hi Eliminator

 

It sounds like you broke the valve as a couple others have done.

 

The best most economical thing to do is exactly what you have done - order the power tune up kit for $16.00.

 

By steel string, do you mean steel pin?

 

(if so) Yes there is a steel pin that holds the hop chamber to the inner barrel, but I cant see this coming out?? And not inside the inner barrel either. Weird.

 

PM me pics if you can.

 

 

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The steel string I talked about is in fact a kind of steel wire...Is a spring in the hop up unit?The steel wire diameter is aprox 0.5mm

Edited by Eliminator

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From gasguns.. again.. :P

 

 

I want to clarify one thing: What IBICO got there is an out-of-box version 2 with an after-market roller installed & an after-market RIS copy, that is all!! All 'WETTI-AFC Custom' guns & mags shipped right now will be the ver.2 (all 1st generation woes corrected or improved). Of course with this ver.2, you still got the exclusive anodized body & the extra CQBR barrel. In addition, for a few dollars more, you can also purchase the kit with the newly-launched "WE M4 Multi Tool - the only tool you'll need to take apart the entire gun" (see below). Please ask your local dealer for details.

 

temp_1.jpg

 

 

So then we know.. there is a VER2 with upgraded parts.

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From gasguns.. again.. :P

 

So then we know.. there is a VER2 with upgraded parts.

 

I don't think anyone ever doubted the existence of a version 2, just what exact parts were reinforced in version 2. Does he mind listing them?

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The steel string I talked about is in fact a kind of steel wire...Is a spring in the hop up unit?The steel wire diameter is aprox 0.5mm

 

There is a spring that pushes against the large black knurled wheel you turn for the hopup. You can see it looking inside the ejection port.

 

I know you said half a mm, and Im not sure how long this piece is eliminator? Sure it isnt just a staple (or part of a staple) from your bag of bb's? That would have also caused the jam? Maybe?

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I can only guess...and the thing was inside the barrel if it's a spring, the whole thing had a 6-7mm diameter and seems to be a short one aparently it came out of the inside of the Hop Up unit...

 

If you wand I can post a pic of the thing but I doubt it would help...

Edited by Eliminator

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Eliminator

 

What happened to you happened to me twice. Your nozzle is being gripped by the sleeve too tightly. So when you fire the bolt blows back but the nozzle doesn't move because steel rod has been stripped from it. Hence the dry firing because the nozzle isn't moving.

 

That thin wire is probably threading from the stripped nozzle. Before you buy another power tune up kit, try this. Get some jb weld and reattach the nozzle to the steel rod. Once thats done your going to have to filing down the tip ofthe brass nozzle down to a slightly smaller diameter, I used a micro file and sand paper. Put everythng back in reciever and slowly pull the charging handle. If you are able to pull it back smoothly with any significant hitches then your good. If not file some more until you get a smooth stroke.

 

You could by another power tune up kit and hope that works. My second one worked for a few hundred shots and stripped also. Chances are your nozzle is being gripped by the sleeve too tightly.

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Some pics from a swedish WE user after testing co2 capabilities with a regular WE magazine :)

No idea what the regulated psi was or anything. I'll post more info if I get it.

Maybe it's safe to say, don't try this at home ;P

 

Repeat after me: Ka-boom :P

 

sprngtmag.jpg

 

 

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Notto, Im a bit confused of what your mod actually does for the charging handle. Firstly, is this for a RS charging handle or the WE one? My WE one JUST broke. If it is for the RS one, all I am doing is putting the roll pin into a drilled hole in the RS one? Im a bit confused, can you help me out on what exactly it is you did to make your charging handle work?

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Some pics from a swedish WE user after testing co2 capabilities with a regular WE magazine :)

No idea what the regulated psi was or anything. I'll post more info if I get it.

Maybe it's safe to say, don't try this at home ;P

 

Repeat after me: Ka-boom :P

 

sprngtmag.jpg

 

LOL!

Wow what was he thinking??

 

I wonder if the mag "Hydrotested and certified" before he filled it! (*rolls eyes*)

 

 

------------------

 

 

Kai,...

Youre looking at a real steel charging handle that I pinned.

 

The RS handle needs a 1/6th extension to work properly - thats what the pin is there for. A tiny fang that creates the correct stand off, grabs the bolt carrier in the correct spot, and pulls the charging handle fully into the receiver on the return.

 

Simple mod - works brilliantly.

 

 

wedifferenttip.jpg

 

Sorry for the "after" macro photos below - blurry indoors with my camera.

 

wepinnedcu.jpg

 

wepinnedcu2.jpg

 

 

 

 

Edited by rottenotto

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ok wow 107 pages...cant read through all of it... i was wondering if anyone could please answer my question...

 

i am looking for a Free Floating RAS system on my WE m4.... i was looking at this:

 

http://ebaybanned.com/product_info.php?cPa...roducts_id=1929

 

does anyone have experience w/ this? which free floating rail systems seem to work w/ the WE m4? thanks.

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The ring will NOT fit on the WE m4. I know a few people now who bought a replacement ring from DD directly and fit the RAS onto their rifle. That is the only way it will work on the WE.

 

 

ok wow 107 pages...cant read through all of it... i was wondering if anyone could please answer my question...

 

i am looking for a Free Floating RAS system on my WE m4.... i was looking at this:

 

http://ebaybanned.com/product_info.php?cPa...roducts_id=1929

 

does anyone have experience w/ this? which free floating rail systems seem to work w/ the WE m4? thanks.

 

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Thank you so much Notto! How much did you buy your RS handle for? Also, what brand? Also, I know you may have stated before what you needed to do the mod, but how do I know where to drill the hole? Can it be anywhere on the surface you put yours on? Or specific? Also, is there a special drill bit I need? Did you get the roll pin at the local hardware store?

Edited by Kai_Wolf

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