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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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I am sorry to post this without reading all of the pages (I'm at page 73 :P) but I have a friend selling a magpul trigger guard meant for aviously a real steel, and wanted to put it on the WE m4, but havent had any one state wether it would fit or need nodding or be impossible. I would greatly appreciate it as my friend doesn't have forever and I can't find them anywere else. This could be my last chance hehe. :rolleyes:

 

ps. I noticed my newb status, had to create a new name. But all is well as my knowledge will be proof. ^_^

Edited by smokenghosts

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is there anywhere i could purchase the ~350fps valve kit.... i have the valve that makes my WE shoot at around 520fps. I cant really use it at any fields here so i want to be able to use it.

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Well I got me WE M4 today!

 

I had my first stopage 3 mags in when the bolt wouldnt go all the way forward. Opened it up and it was just fine, so I dont know what caused it.

 

I ordered six magazines total, one of them leaks quite a bit. The cooldown effect of this weapon is much more severe than I had noticed on youtube. After four or fie rounds on auto its tone changes and it starts venting liquid gas through it with BBs. The MAY be because I'm using green gas, and it may be because this gas seems to have a stupidly high amount for lube in it.

 

Does anyone know how I can tell if I got a version 2?

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This might be beacuse of three things. Firstly, check if you have lubed the gun up with silicon first. This happened to me. Secondly, it may be beacuse of the green gas having too much silicon in it, but Im using it in mine, so it is fine. Lastly, which I think is the culprit is the absolutly shoddy part number 122, the Cup seal (O ring like thing) on the bolt. I would replace that with a #83 O-ring 1/2" outer diameter x 5/16' inner diameter asap. This should help you to seal the bolt better. Be sure to lube it first.

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Well I got me WE M4 today!

 

I had my first stopage 3 mags in when the bolt wouldnt go all the way forward. Opened it up and it was just fine, so I dont know what caused it.

 

I ordered six magazines total, one of them leaks quite a bit. The cooldown effect of this weapon is much more severe than I had noticed on youtube. After four or fie rounds on auto its tone changes and it starts venting liquid gas through it with BBs. The MAY be because I'm using green gas, and it may be because this gas seems to have a stupidly high amount for lube in it.

 

Does anyone know how I can tell if I got a version 2?

 

 

Hi Wraith

If its got trademarks and a magnet sticks to the bolt stop, its version 2.

 

When you charge the mags, be sure to top them off - they hold a lot of propane/gas. Dont give a stab, hold the can on them until the "fill sound" stops.

 

What part of the country are you in? Im in the Northeast, its 17 degrees here everyday. Trying to use this or any gas gun is POINTLESS right now. Keep that in mind. NO gas gun works in these temps (cooldown deluxe)

 

This gun came out at the worst possible time (winter). No doubt it will be a beast in the warmer climes.

 

Theres a mod I did with Krytox which reduces/eliminates venting. I also have an insane rate of fire going. Pm me.

 

Play with the gun for a week before you judge. You will figure out its personality and what it needs etc etc. This isnt your KWA Mac11! :P

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Yeah, I got an eye full of green gas when it vented the first time since it even vented out the back of the charging handle!

 

It doesnt have trademarks, so even though evike said its the new version I dont believe that to be true. Those **********s.

 

I live in hawaii so I've been using it in 80 degree weather. The magazines stay a good temp but the gun vents like crazy! I'll have to check on that O-Ring.

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For the venting issue, my gun seemed to have rear part of the brass sleeve (part the bolt fits around) a bit loose after firing it the first few times. Once that happened it had rotated, making the gas inlet not line up with the gas bucking on the magazine. It went from cycling very poorly to just venting the whole mag. That could also be another issue giving some people venting issues. Tomorrow I'm gonna open it up and give it some loctite and see how well that works.

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Okay guys, here's what I believe to be my problem! I assume this part SHOULD be making a full seal, its cracking in two locations.

 

So how do I go about replacing this piece of ######? Its venting so hard the lube in my green gas is coating EVERYTHING in my gun and leaking out cracks!

 

DSC02457.jpg

 

DSC02456.jpg

 

DSC02459.jpg

 

DSC02452.jpg

Edited by wraithxt1

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So how do I go about replacing this piece of ######?

This issue has been talked about a lot here. The part is the #122 that you can find mentioned here a lot. It's a common problem and even Airsoft Buddy sells the replacement o-ring as spare part pack.

 

You can also try to swap it with the #83 o-ring that has 1/2" outer diameter and 5/16' inner diameter. That has been reported to work fine on most cases. Also make sure the bolt inner system is screwed tight and is aligned correctly. This might be the reason it shreds so fast, but I guess it's still a bit unclear why this o-ring shreds with some people so fast and why with some people it keeps on working just fine with minimal wear like it should (like in my gun).

Edited by Lupus78

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That's part #122 (the piston head o-ring). A few people have had trouble with that. You cou8ld look through the last 15 pages but I doubt they'll tell you anything super-informative that I won't tell you now.

 

Basically, you could buy a replacement from Airsoft Buddy for $5 a pack plus $5 shipping, and that is pretty much guaranteed to work for at least a little while. Some people (myself included, but not all) have had great success replacing the o-ring with a #83 one that should be available at your local hardware store or probably definitely available at Home Depot (if you can stomach the trip ;)).

 

Otto has a fix for the o-ring shredding problem involving using a ball-peen hammer to widen to brass cylinder opening. I've not had a problem with mine shredding though as long as I keep the sliver slotted screw that secures the black tube to the bolt carrier tight, so you might want to see if that helps first (tightening the screw).

 

Edit: Damn you for posting before me Lupus, damn you! :P

Edited by Chris North

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Anyone used Abbey Predator Ultra Gas with this gun? I am not really sure if this is equivalent to Green Gas or stronger, but it's the most available in my country.

 

AbbeyPredatorUltraGas.jpg

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Okay guys, here's what I believe to be my problem! I assume this part SHOULD be making a full seal, its cracking in two locations.

 

So how do I go about replacing this piece of ######? Its venting so hard the lube in my green gas is coating EVERYTHING in my gun and leaking out cracks!

 

DSC02457.jpg

 

DSC02456.jpg

 

DSC02459.jpg

 

DSC02452.jpg

 

So sad...WE just cuts way to many corners.

 

If you can extract the o-ring relatively intact bring it to a local O-ring Indutrial supply store and ask them to measure it and find you a replacement made with Viton...not the cheap urethane crud...that will be a considerable improvement and will make your GBBR more "reliable".

 

In the US you can buy that part for .47 cents at Precision Associates in MN.

 

As for the gas check it out on the German airsoft site:

 

fps16-gastabelle-begadi-en.jpg

 

Which shows your Abbey gas as stuff that is weaker then Green.

 

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Hi Wraith,

 

Im heading to the dealership in 2 mins to get my car serviced so Ill hit you back later with more info.

 

But DAMN! lol! Your 122 is shredola. Theres your issue.

 

You defintely have 2 immediate issues - the large bolt at the very end of the bolt carrier came loose and the opening to the brass cylinder (towards the rear) is still sharp with burrs from the factory.

 

The result is what you see there - a shredded #122.

 

Everytime it returned into that sharp cylinder, all sloppy and misaligned from coming loose, it chunked the rubber washer.

 

You need to polish up that opening with 2K wet and paper - debur it. (I even flared mine - more later)

 

And blue locktite the main bolt down once you replace the #122. As mentioned, some seem happy with a store bought 0-ring. It will work. However I have a blindingly fast ROF and great kick with the stock washers. And have ZERO wear issues after doing the things mentioned above.

 

50+ mags on a new, stock #122 washer and the edgs are still sharp and NO wear at all.

 

 

PS....

The cooldown damage you have is a vicious cycle - the more worn it got - the more cool down - the more cool down - the stiffer that rubber washer got - the stiffer it got, the easier it chunked - the more it chunked - the more cooldown - repeat repeat repeat

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Slide the plastic tube away from the brass nozzle, and down the silver op rod. Get it out of teh way.

 

Grip the silver rod with needle nose pliers right whre the plastic spacer tube was - right against the brass nozzle *albatross* end.

 

Simply unthread the nozzle.

 

To open the nozzle, use the pointed ends of the claws on your same needle nose pliers. Fit the ends into the slots machined on the bottom of the nozzle. (You will see these large flat slots machined into it to grip) It will simply unsrew.

 

Valve assembly/nozzle is now open.

 

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Interesting. So I guess I'll head to home depot later today and snag myself a #83 O-Ring. Do I just ask where I can find a #83 O-ring? Will anyone know what I'm talking about?

 

From my understanding I'll just slip the old one off, slip this one on and presto, working gas gun with no venting?

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Interesting. So I guess I'll head to home depot later today and snag myself a #83 O-Ring. Do I just ask where I can find a #83 O-ring? Will anyone know what I'm talking about?

 

From my understanding I'll just slip the old one off, slip this one on and presto, working gas gun with no venting?

 

 

Wraith, I pm'd you with a ton of how to's. Read it twice. ;)

 

The main thing is to get bolt #36 locked down and to have tube #38 and valvehead, perfectly centered in the bolt carrier.

 

If this loosens and falls out of alignment the whole gun goes to *chaffinch* in a chain of events.

 

When reassembling after replacing #122 (with whatever you want - its your party) be sure to degrease bolt #36 and tube #38 with lacquer thinner, naptha, prep sol, or whatever degreaser/cleaner you have got handy.

 

The silicone all over these parts wont allow the Locktite to harden off, otherwise.

 

Use blue Locktite and let the part set for a few hours before using it again - overnight if you can.

 

Your back in biz.

 

PS...

My PM will give you the other 'cleanup mods' before you reassemble and to guarantee it never happens again.

Edited by rottenotto

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Hey RottenOtto,

I know the americans just *love* ye olde imperial system, but us krauts here in germay - we seem to be to stubborn to accept its beauty :D

I'd need the diameter of O-Ring #122 in cm or mm. I could figure out that 0.5" is 1,27cm, but is there a difference between " and ' or did you just misspell? Could it be 0,79 cm?

 

Danke aus Deutschland,

 

Pollux

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Hey RottenOtto,

I know the americans just *love* ye olde imperial system, but us krauts here in germay - we seem to be to stubborn to accept its beauty :D

I'd need the diameter of O-Ring #122 in cm or mm. I could figure out that 0.5" is 1,27cm, but is there a difference between " and ' or did you just misspell? Could it be 0,79 cm?

 

Danke aus Deutschland,

 

Pollux

 

Anything for a fellow german ;)

 

I can get you the metric outer diamter and inner diameter of #122.

 

As for the typo, which post? Was it mine? I dont recall ever listing the dimensions in detail.

 

I think you are referring to Lupus' post.

 

 

Edited by rottenotto

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Hmm, now I've got a shredded #122 as well. I noticed the entire piston/nozzle assembly was loose within the bolt carrier, so it has definitely caused #122 to hit the blowback cylinder on the way forward.

 

The piston head should definitely be redesigned. I think the Nine Ball Dyna piston head would make a great archetype. A larger front flange, ports to expand the O-ring and a beefy O-ring instead of a fragile "skirted" Y-ring. That's my wish list: A great seal but more durability.

 

Another improvement would be some blue loctite on the flat-head screw #36 that secures the piston to the bolt carrier. Just make sure you don't get any of that agent on the O-ring #37.

 

-Sale

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