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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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^ Hi Sale

Absolutely on the Nine-ball/AEG style design. (The O-ring MUST be smaller, not "the same size as" the cylinder on the return for it to work at optimum. Just like an AEG piston head seal. WE used an expanding face seal as their design)

 

I need to note that I have had ZERO wear issues after polishing and flaring the opening of the brass cylinder - and Locktiting #36 down as I posted on the previous pages.

 

The edges of my new #122 seal are crisp with no wear after 50+ mags. YAY! Now we're talking.

 

There is always room for improvement (I have photos to post this weekend of a new quad seal Im working on)

 

However, I think part #122 got lots of flack (even from me) unnecesarily. Any seal would have shredded and chunked to some degree from the sharp edges of the brass tube and #36 loosening.

 

#36 loosening and backing out--->causing #38 to lean and fall out of alignment with the cylinder--->causing the rubber seal to smack the edges of the tube on its way in----->causing chunking and shredding.

 

Locktite. Done.

Edited by rottenotto

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Hey Rottenotto - I've got one more question for you: That part you fixed with the Ball-Peen Hammer, is that part #111?

This would be it:

 

hopupsy5r.jpg

 

I was trying to correct those burrs myself, but I coult not remove part # 112 from #111...

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Real Lewis Machine & Tools stock fit rock solid on the WE ^_^

Which LMT stock did you fit IBICO? Did you fit an LMT stock tube or was it just the LMT stock?

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Hey Rottenotto - I've got one more question for you: That part you fixed with the Ball-Peen Hammer, is that part #111?

This would be it:

 

hopupsy5r.jpg

 

I was trying to correct those burrs myself, but I coult not remove part # 112 from #111...

 

 

Hi Pollux

 

Not that part. The sharp edges you show there are fine and I honestly feel dont make for any issues at all.

 

The back of part #112 - the brass cylinder - I flared it slightly by doing the following.

 

With the gun dismantled, I placed a small ball peen hammer on the open tube. I then tapped gently with another hammer to "flare it".

 

This rolled the sharp edges outward slightly.

 

Do you have to do this? No.

 

But it guaratees that if bolt #36 loosens again - and the tube #38 and valve head assembly goes out of alignemnt - it wont chew the washer (#122) as it tries to re-enter the cylinder.

 

No matter HOW out of alignment it is. "Funnel effect" FTW.

 

Incidentally, I finished with fine grit wetsand paper to polish the opening to smooth glass. (This step might be enough for most people).

 

WE cuts a sharp chamfered edge there, in an attempt to do the same "funneling thing" or guiding the re-entry smoothly, it just isnt enough. It is also quite sharp. You can see the machining lines which are abrasive on the washer.

 

 

(Ill have metric measurements tonight when I get back in)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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A write up of common problems and the known fixes (Ie, some tutorials on how to fix common problems) would be a really good idea. Would save there being so many questions and arguing in this thread.

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A write up of common problems and the known fixes (Ie, some tutorials on how to fix common problems) would be a really good idea. Would save there being so many questions and arguing in this thread.

 

Doing so and starting a fresh thread (and locking this one) might be an idea as the useful information in this thread is very fragmented.

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Okay, I got it. Mine seems alright so far, not perfect but quite smooth.

 

I'm still trying to fix the problem with my clogging BBs, if I try to roll a BB through the barrel it gets stuck in the Hopup-Area.

 

cimg7643fq2l.jpg

The picture is taken looking through part 112 into 111.

 

The red arrow is some kind of burr in the black area surrounding the hopup, the green arrow is pointing to the hopup itself.

Might the damaged part be 117? I tried to dismantle the thing but did not succeed. I removed 113-116, found 1 small ball bearing (108?) but cannot remove the pin holding the inner barrel to 111. How do I do that?

And what is part 118 anyway? AB is selling that as the hopup rubber, but I think he swaapped it with 109.

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I just purchased the following from Airsoft Buddy

 

Roller Bearing for WE Gas Blow Back M4(

Steel Bolt Catch for WE Gas Blow Back M4

Charging Handle for WE Gas Blow Back M4

Parts #122 for WE Gas Blow Back M4

Parts #42 for WE Gas Blow Back M4

 

With these parts I should be more than set as far as upgrades go. Part 42 is the 300 FPS nozzle so I can use my M4 at local fields. I may try to widen it a little so I can get closer to 400 FPS.

 

Did I miss anything?

 

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I just purchased the following from Airsoft Buddy

 

Roller Bearing for WE Gas Blow Back M4(

Steel Bolt Catch for WE Gas Blow Back M4

Charging Handle for WE Gas Blow Back M4

Parts #122 for WE Gas Blow Back M4

Parts #42 for WE Gas Blow Back M4

 

With these parts I should be more than set as far as upgrades go. Part 42 is the 300 FPS nozzle so I can use my M4 at local fields. I may try to widen it a little so I can get closer to 400 FPS.

 

Did I miss anything?

 

 

Get a couple power tune up kits (valve assemblies)

 

And you will find that the hop works soooo much better with more power.

 

Use .28g bb's and that the powerup valve and you will be sailing flat way past 150 feet....

Edited by rottenotto

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I'm using the 500 FPS valve right now, I'll be thrown off the field for life if I get caught using it! Why would I need the tune up kit, dont I already have one of those?

 

I dont want to be shooting 300 fps though, so I'll try to get it as close to 400 FPS as possible.

 

Getting a real ar15 chargingle handle and modding it is too much of a pain in the *albatross* for me so I just bought an extra one for when it breaks until they release a new version of it.

Edited by wraithxt1

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^ Frack rebuilding broken valves. Just buy the whole power tune up kit as one drop in assembly - rather than lots of separate parts. For $16.00 its a no brainer. You even get a new #122 in the process.

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You'd still have to take the valve/nozzle assembly apart as the power down valve kit isn't sold as one unit.

 

But if I were you I'd get the whole setup in addition anyway. There's a few small parts that could get lost or damaged and for $16 you can't go wrong. I'll be getting one myself. Having two also gives you the benefit of swapping power settings with a basic field strip and removal of a screw.

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I may try to widen it a little so I can get closer to 400 FPS.

Let us know how this turns out and how you did it.

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Some have suggested "tapping the piece, then threading in a bolt"........this would not work for such obvious reasons.

 

blah blah blah

 

Uhh... Yes it would work.

 

You're worried about the screwhead being too thick? Ever heard of counterboring? Didn't think so.

 

And as someone else has already mentioned, Loctite.

 

Since you will definitely be lost in all of this complex language as usual, I will say that the rollpin idea will also work. But when you say the bolt method won't work, once again.... classic rottenotto.

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LT. Fenix,

 

No offense but your tone is bringing down this thread.

 

I get the feeling that you have issues with rottenotto and the information he posts but I also notice he has risen above it and is ignoring you which is probably what more people will start to do if you continue your slur.

 

He may be wrong, I dont know as I have not yet bought a WE M4, but in the near future when I do buy one I will PM him for any advice I may need because he has been contributing for the benefit of the rest of this community.

 

If you disagree you could just try posting your own informative opinion while neglecting to comment on his.

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Well I fixed the previous issues only to have a new issue start up. The bolt catch stopped working! I cant figure out WHY it stopped working, any ideas on how to figure it out/ fix it?

 

The bolt stop is steel, and there is a LITTLE wear on the mags, they have been used 3-4 times each.

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Well I believe my M4 will be arriving within the next couple of weeks or so.

 

So to all those users who have experienced problems.

 

I can second the call for a quick run-down guide of the potential problems and the solutions for them.

 

OTTO, I place this squarely upon your shoulders... wink wink!

 

Do you think its worthwhile giving a complete strip down prior to usage and tightening, modifying, everything before going bananas with it?

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Well I fixed the previous issues only to have a new issue start up. The bolt catch stopped working! I cant figure out WHY it stopped working, any ideas on how to figure it out/ fix it?

 

The bolt stop is steel, and there is a LITTLE wear on the mags, they have been used 3-4 times each.

 

does the bolt catch not work multiple mags or just the one? Might be a teaching to suck eggs moment, but has the bolt catch mech on the mag turned off (i remember a post earlier in the thread about a leaver that turned off the catch mech)

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Probably the best place to look first.

 

Otherwise try pressing lightly on the bottom of the bolt catch and dry fire. If it locks back it might just be that the little nub that presses to engage it isn't popping up all the way, so what I've found to work well is to take the mag shell off and lightly lube the levers and parts with oil. If it doesn't lock back try manually pulling the bolt back via the charging handle with an empty mag and see if it engages.

 

I've also had it fail to lock back if I try to move the gun with the blowback. It seems to need a solid jolt to engage.

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I have my power tune up kit coming in soon. I am glad to hear this as the .30's Im using should be shooting straight by the time it comes in.

 

Get a couple power tune up kits (valve assemblies)

 

And you will find that the hop works soooo much better with more power.

 

Use .28g bb's and that the powerup valve and you will be sailing flat way past 150 feet....

 

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Well I believe my M4 will be arriving within the next couple of weeks or so.

 

So to all those users who have experienced problems.

 

I can second the call for a quick run-down guide of the potential problems and the solutions for them.

 

OTTO, I place this squarely upon your shoulders... wink wink!

 

Do you think its worthwhile giving a complete strip down prior to usage and tightening, modifying, everything before going bananas with it?

 

Hi Chef

I think taking it down on day one, and doing the things we have all mentioned, is a very good idea.

 

As mentioned before - and I hate to repeat it (we will get a separate thread together of fixes) - but the one most critical thing I see is to have bolt #36 locktited down before it ever sees silicone/gas spray.

 

If that bolt comes loose, the whole gun goes to *chaffinch* in a series of events.

 

Wraith? Your WE is an evike bought gun? They just got them correct? LMK...Im wondering if others will have similar problems with ones bought through them (at least their first batch)

 

Kai. My hopup has settled down trmendously. A dirty barrel and too much silicone mixed with gas will still make it hook on occcasion. But the flight is now flat with .28 bb's. I think it was the Power tune up valve more than anything else, that improved things.

 

The hop is aggressive and works better with 500fps of power. Even with the high power valve, when the mag either cools down or Im almost out of gas, the bb's start climbing upward again (because of the decreasing power).

 

The second reason is the hop is starting to wear down normally. Im happy.

 

Lughnasadhuk - thank you. You understand forum life very well. Let the info flow continue. (This is a great gun.)

 

 

 

 

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Along with Wraith i also have bolt catch issues with my WE M4. I pre-ordered mine from evike right around christmas and received it on the 21st of January. I have only put around 6 mags through it and have only had the bolt lock back when the mag was out of bb's once out of the 6 mags. I know that my bolt catch mech. was engaged every time but still do not know why the bolt was not locking back. I even dry fired a few times after and it took about 5 dry fires to finally lock back.

 

 

 

Evike is not the quickest to respond to emails so i am hoping they have some type of response to this problem and if they know if any other customers have received it. The only other problem i have had with my WE M4 is that i have had bb's role out the end of the barrel a couple times and then it would misfire because that was the bb in the chamber. I also had one jam with the gun. It jammed up pretty bad actually, and a bb managed to get lodged behind the hammer so i could not pull the trigger anymore. I had to takedown the gun and dislodge the bb. Other than that the gun is great.

 

 

 

I am still waiting to see how part #122 holds up. I am going to try and put a couple hundred rounds more through the gun today and see how the o-ring does. I will also be running to home depot to pick up the #83 o-ring as a replacement just incase.

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My M4 is still stuck in Customs, with a bit of luck I might get it this week. I have certainly decided that a full strip down to check all components and apply some tender care is in order before any pulling the trigger. This will be annoying but I am sure it's the only sensible option.

 

Rottenotto,

You certainly seem to be carrying most of the weight for providing a single lessons learnt thread, really looking forward to this one. Good luck so far and well done for avoiding the troll.

 

Since Krytox still crops up in discussion and is pretty difficult to source in the UK I will add my two pence again:

 

Krytox GPL105 (as used by Rottenotto) 30ml Applicator Bottles £18.00 ex VAT, ex works

Minimum order £30.00

P&P First Class £3.50

 

Alan D Follett

Product Manager

GBR Technology Ltd.

T: 0118 9820567

 

alan@gbrtech.co.uk

www.gbrtech.co.uk

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