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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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Coco, mine seems to be there still. It seems to be in tact too. I took it out and didnt look damaged at all, and when I drop a bb in, it stays. However, when I put it back into the gun, the bb's still roll out when I shake the gun about.

 

I replaced the origional hop up beacuse I tried to foolishly grind the bottom of mine, and that is when I noticed the bbs rolling out. So I thought it was that. This is so frustrating. I really need to find a solution.

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Coco, mine seems to be there still. It seems to be in tact too. I took it out and didnt look damaged at all, and when I drop a bb in, it stays. However, when I put it back into the gun, the bb's still roll out when I shake the gun about.

 

I replaced the origional hop up beacuse I tried to foolishly grind the bottom of mine, and that is when I noticed the bbs rolling out. So I thought it was that. This is so frustrating. I really need to find a solution.

 

Have you compared the new valve assembly with the old one (ie. dimensions)? Maybe try unscrewing the valve/loading nozzle (#41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46) from #39 (powerup kit) and attach it to #39 of the standard power kit. Let us know if that makes a difference. For whatever reason, maybe the loading nozzle is pushing the BB slightly past #117 resulting in the BB rolling out of the barrel.

 

What I would do to diagnose the issue:

 

1. Do you still have the same issue when using the standard velocity valve?

2. If not try what I suggested. Unscrew the brass valve assembly (#41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46) from the silver rod (#39) on the powerup kit and screw it onto the silver rod of the standard kit.

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Just a quick note before I call it a night here...

 

On my gun, the bb is always knocked past the black bucking (designed to trap the bb).

 

The inertia of the heavy bolt and brass nozzle knocks it just past this trap, and the bb rests against the green hop rubber.

 

Thats what seems to hold it from rolling out the barrel in my gun. Exactly like my SHOEI MP44's did.

 

If you modified your green WE hop rubber in any way (like grinding it down) it will roll out the barrel for sure. Others who have modded the green hop material have noted the same in pages way back.

 

If you put a new green hop in there (unmolested) and its still rolling out teh barrel, I would say it isnt assembled correctly....OR....the batch of green replacement hops have a shallower depth and arent stopping the bb's......just my guess.

 

Enough people and dealers bitched about the agressive hop (overhopped out of the box) that I bet WE modified the green material to be shallower/less hop. Wouldnt surprise me.

 

A side note.......I mentioned before that my MP44's were HORRIBLE in this respect. The hop had to be set aggressively to stop the bb from rolling out the barrel - but then the bb's would shoot to the sky after 30 feet. Krappy compromises that I never sorted out with the SHOEI's.

 

It all comes back to the weight and inertia of the heavy bolt/loading nozzle, knocking the bb's forward.

Edited by rottenotto

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Hey Kai, I can confirm that your problem should be #117. I also had a problem with this part, but the other way round.

My BBs got stuck in there. I also posted a pic three pages before where you can see a piece of it sticking into the barrel, I just cleaned it up with a scalpel, now it seems good to go.

If you pull out the innerbarrel, the bucking #117 should remain inside #111, I had to push it out with a pencil. Maybe you've lost yours, take a look under your desk :)

Edited by Pollux77

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It is indeed in the gun though. Ive taken it out and put it back in quite a few times. I didnt start experiencing this until I shaved my old hop up rubber down, and now these new ones I was sent also do not retain the bb, as was stated by Notto. Not sure what to do really. I wonder if WIlliam has some of the older Hop Up Rubbers laying around. Also, I have tried both valve assemblies and both do the same thing. Part 117 seems to be placed in perfectly. The new hop ups seem short.

 

 

Hey Kai, I can confirm that your problem should be #117. I also had a problem with this part, but the other way round.

My BBs got stuck in there. I also posted a pic three pages before where you can see a piece of it sticking into the barrel, I just cleaned it up with a scalpel, now it seems good to go.

If you pull out the innerbarrel, the bucking #117 should remain inside #111, I had to push it out with a pencil. Maybe you've lost yours, take a look under your desk :)

Edited by Kai_Wolf

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If you modified your green WE hop rubber in any way (like grinding it down) it will roll out the barrel for sure. Others who have modded the green hop material have noted the same in pages way back.

I cut off a piece of the rubber, but the BBs have not started to roll out. It just reduced the hop-up to a much lower level. I'd have to test-shoot it to find out exactly how low weight BBs I can use, but it's definitely reduced and the BBs aren't rolling out.

 

It all comes back to the weight and inertia of the heavy bolt/loading nozzle, knocking the bb's forward.

The weight is in a way irrelevant, because it has way enough inertia to positively knock the the BB forward. Whether it's 150 grams or 250 grams doesn't matter. After the BB has been brought into motion, the key is the velocity and how far it is pushed. It could be a too hasty return stroke and/or a too long nozzle. (I'm not saying it is, but could be.)

 

I'm thinking it's possible that the system somehow traps air into the blowback system on the forward stroke, and the blow of air is enough to push the BB past the hop-up rubber. Just a thought. With regular GBB pistols the excessive gas is bled out because the nozzle and magazine are disconnected, but the WE M4 mag retains a tight seal with the blowback cylinder at all times.

 

When the moving parts are coming forward and the nozzle has just entered the black rubber chamber, where does the remaining air in the system escape as the bolt carrier and nozzle move the final few millimeters forward? I think the only way out is from the gap between the BB and inner barrel – and that gap is small.

 

-Sale

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Hi Kai

 

Try shimming the green rubber piece. Plac a small piece of tape on top so that the bearing can press it further into the innder barrel for more hop. Something like that. get creative like we have to be when AEG hopups arent giving enough "hop".

 

Just curious? With the hop set at 'full on', you still have bb's rolling out?

 

Also place a piece of tape around the barrel where that missing brass ring used to be. Just try it. Ill explain why later.

 

 

Sale-

I undertand what you are saying.

 

But with the Escorts, it was always the interia of the heavy brass bolt and nozzle slamming forward that just sent the bb (any weight bb) down the barrel. If the hop rubber wasnt set high, it would just roll right down and out the barrel in the loading process.

 

As for trapping air on the forward stroke, this is what I have been saying all along in PM's to others regarding #122.

 

The #122 washer has to be smaller than the cylinder - the store bought O-ring is not. And it creates two problems.

 

What it is doing, is slowing down the return (wont return easily like a Nine ball style seal for intance) and at the same time it is pressurizing the cylinder on the return.

 

The back pressure reenters the nozzle vents until the valve slams closed. Then the pressure is forced to escape in other places. Not good.

 

The "same size" O-ring is a static seal that is obstructing things on both the way back, and the return forward. (I would say the reason for failing valve heads)

 

The gun needs a dynamic seal to work properly. Thats what WE gave it. Is there a better design? Probably. But all things considered, the WE seal works best so far.

Edited by rottenotto

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Hi guys

 

I have been keeping an eye on this forum for quite a bit now, I think that I might step up and order one on payday. Any UK players got one and whom did u get it off?

 

I see that Ehobby now have the in stock for $320 ($80 del) and I have never had an issue in the past with these guys! Or should I go for a deal with Airsoft Buddy $430 with spare mag & custom receiver!!

 

(should I get a spare Part 122 with the order and should I stock up on green or 134a gas?

 

Many thanks for your replys.

 

 

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Hi guys

 

I have been keeping an eye on this forum for quite a bit now, I think that I might step up and order one on payday. Any UK players got one and whom did u get it off?

 

I see that Ehobby now have the in stock for $320 ($80 del) and I have never had an issue in the past with these guys! Or should I go for a deal with Airsoft Buddy $430 with spare mag & custom receiver!!

 

(should I get a spare Part 122 with the order and should I stock up on green or 134a gas?

 

Many thanks for your replys.

 

Order from AB. His email correspondence is slow going but his customer service is better than most retailers. Nab a 5 pack of #122's, you'll need them eventually. The WE M4 will not cycle properly on 134a. Pick up some GG.

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Hey I saw someone manage to snap a Systema PTW upper receiver to a WE M4 and they still works like a charm.

 

So that means you can fit a systema cnc'd lower on? As stated that the lower is from a ptw, and upper made from a rs

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I noticed that the space between the delta ring and the receiver is a bit much, would there be a problem in fitting RS and other delta rings?

 

 

Hi Brian. I have fitted many different style barrel nuts (all real steel) on my WE. All fit fine with no problems.

 

 

Also,....

 

Sorry for the atrocious typos in my previous post. I was typing in a car on a mini laptop!!!

 

 

 

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jonny2400,

Land Warrior are going to have these rifles in stock by the 12th priced at £299.

And you need either green gas or propane.Unless you wait for the c02 mags.

Is that 100% confirmed rich? Do you know if it's the newer trademarked version? Thanks mate.

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So that means you can fit a systema cnc'd lower on? As stated that the lower is from a ptw, and upper made from a rs

 

I don't know. Don't think upper fitting implies lower fitting, esp. the trigger group.

 

If the Systema upper fits, does that mean, at least for the US folks, a real AR15 upper will fit? Will it work? I'm not quite sure how the brass chamber cover attaches.

Edited by slu

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What I did to fix the BB's rolling out issue is constrict the Black Breech rubber sleeve using a layer of thin super glue on the outside of the sleeve of the muzzle half of the sleeve, wait for it to dry and put it back into the barrel. The Layer of super glue is just enough to constrict the sleeve and slow the BB before it falls out onto the hop rubber.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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What I did to fix the BB's rolling out issue is constrict the Black Breech rubber sleeve using a layer of thin super glue on the outside of the sleeve of the muzzle half of the sleeve, wait for it to dry and put it back into the barrel. The Layer of super glue is just enough to constrict the sleeve and slow the BB before it falls out onto the hop rubber.

 

 

AH! There you are.....you did the nice little diagram on exactly where to thin out the green hop piece, correct?

 

But you also had the bb's rolling out the barrel, correct?

 

I recall your user name, once you mentioned the CA glue as your quick fix. I remember reading that way back.

Slu,..

A bad and "un pc" topic, but yes I have a RS upper, and it can be made to work with the WE.

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Slu,..[/b]

A bad and "un pc" topic, but yes I have a RS upper, and it can be made to work with the WE.

 

Can't see why it's "un pc",people over in the States have being modding RS uppers for their PTW's for a while now,and as far as i am aware once modded cannot be used on RS firearms again.

Another way to look at this,at least you now know that you can mod the Prime mur-1 designed for the PTW to fit your WE.

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Slu,..[/b]

A bad and "un pc" topic, but yes I have a RS upper, and it can be made to work with the WE.

 

 

Can't see why it's "un pc",people over in the States have being modding RS uppers for their PTW's for a while now,and as far as i am aware once modded cannot be used on RS firearms again.

Another way to look at this,at least you now know that you can mod the Prime mur-1 designed for the PTW to fit your WE.

 

 

Ill correct myself: It can be "un PC" on this forum.

 

The last time I saw people showing/posting/mentioning how to convert real steel RECEIVER parts for airsoft use, the posts were deleted.

 

Wasn't it Arnies back in the day who wouldnt even allow you to post or mention a velocity (FPS) higher than 350fps? lol! Like some biblical law was broken!

 

 

 

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If thats the case then question is how easy is it to convert the WE receiver onto a real steel...

 

Differnent trigger group,wrong materials (the upper wouldn't take the pressure).The lower probably woudn't take a RS mag.

The list is endless.But i think this topic is going in the wrong direction.

Suffice to say that if you have the know how and tools you wouldn't need a WE to convert.

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