1st Commando Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 I understand that but you also m made note of the products you used in the UK which is a great help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whudafxup Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 ^ Marky, did you remove the brass cylinder when you polished it with the sandpaper or leave it in the upper receiver? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marky [UE] Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 As I mentioned above polish the tapered entrance on part #112 as best as I could with the part in situ (still don't have a D ring tool) Since I can't remove it from the upper at the moment due to a lack of tools I had to do the best I could. I will double check everything again when my tool arrives from AB. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 Good job Marky! Ive been swamped at work, but should be free by the weekend. I plan to work on the wiki post. I will do pics and a description concerning tightening and locktiting down bolt #36. The tube will lean (not centered) on your first try. You need to keep loosening and then rotating the black tube to get it centered. Each time, eyeballing it from the front of the bolt carrier. The o-ring doesnt compress evenly, this is why it will lean. It has nothing to do with the black tube not being cut square, it is. By rotating and retightening, you will eventaully get it straight and centered. You will find the 'sweet spot'. More on the wiki post. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 Hey guys, I need to ask a question I possibly asked before. Can anyone confirm if the bb is in fact stopped by the green hop up rubber of part 117? Ive had mixed results and I am wondering if my 117 part is defective. William has stated their hop up units work fine, so I cant seem to find out what the issue is. Can anyone do a test and check for me? See where the bb actually stops at? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 Hi Kai In my gun (and my Escort powered SHOEI MP44's - and the WE is a modified Escort system) the bb absolutely stops against the hop rubber (In this case the green dot) Part 117 (What william calls a bucking) has several small lips on its inner surface......it serves to seal the chamber/breech, and to slow the bb, but not trap it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian™ Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 If you want a Systema upper to fit, you're probably going to have to dremel some of the threading to fit the outer barrel. I'm just wondering if that was the case, to just use an entire Systema upper w/ front end and have the gun without the hopup? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 That makes me wonder, however, when Ive turned off the hop up all the way, there seems to be no green dot protruding at all. I am speaking of when my first hopup was still in tact. When I turned it off all the way, bb's would not spill out as they do now. That, I dont understand. If the bb's are held in by the green dot, wouldnt they roll out if I decided to turn the hop up all the way off? Sorry for the question, I just want to isolate the issue so I know what to buy. It is very frustrating lol. Hi Kai In my gun (and my Escort powered SHOEI MP44's - and the WE is a modified Escort system) the bb absolutely stops against the hop rubber (In this case the green dot) Part 117 (What william calls a bucking) has several small lips on its inner surface......it serves to seal the chamber/breech, and to slow the bb, but not trap it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carsten Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 (edited) #1 AirsoftBuddy is now offering a "Bearing Set" -> 18$ and a "O-Ring Set" -> 15$ #2 do the spare upper receivers come in the new vers. 2 color? #3 status report mags I have 5 mags in total for now,.. 4 of them are absolutely leak-free, one mag (the one which came with the rifle) is leaking a bit,.. it holds the gas for a few days at least, so thats ok for me 2 of the 4 leak-free mags are the new version. trigger guard I've installed the RS magpul trigger guard and the guard itself fits perfectly,... I just had to modify the pin holes to made them fit the pins (dremel) Edited February 6, 2009 by Carsten Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carsten Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 2 of the 4 leak-free mags are the new version. ..have to correct myself, all leak free mags are the new version! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marky [UE] Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 When firing the rifle I can feel a light jet of air from the underside of the charging handle/forward assist area. Also various parts of the upper become quite lubricated particularly towards the rear by the charging handle and forward assist but also by the bolt stop and the fire select. Is this normal? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 When firing the rifle I can feel a light jet of air from the underside of the charging handle/forward assist area. Also various parts of the upper become quite lubricated particularly towards the rear by the charging handle and forward assist but also by the bolt stop and the fire select. Is this normal? What gas are you using? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 When firing the rifle I can feel a light jet of air from the underside of the charging handle/forward assist area. Also various parts of the upper become quite lubricated particularly towards the rear by the charging handle and forward assist but also by the bolt stop and the fire select. Is this normal? Yes, 100%. If you happen to be using a particularly oily mix of paropane/gas, you will also see lots of 'drool' here as well. (as you have noted) There is a normal amount of blowby, leaving the rear of the brass cylinder. Norml. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 (edited) If the bb's are held in by the green dot, wouldnt they roll out if I decided to turn the hop up all the way off? Yes, and thats why I sold my SHOEI MP44's! They were 1000% unskirmishable. A hop up 'makes or breaks' the success of an airsoft gun, and the SHOEI/Escort design was the pits (at least on those 2 guns). Turn the hop up enough to hold the bb's and each shot was heading for the sky. Turn it down, and bb's rolling out the barrel and "double feeds" or "no feeds". Then it was chopped bb's...on and on. The loading/hop/bb holding issue is the scourge of large scale GBB rifles. In past days, with old school ASAHI, JAC, Maruzen, Falcon Toy etc etc, these werent issues. The guns were almost all "blow forward" systems that used an O-ring in the barrel to hold the bb. The gas pressure would build up against this blockage and the O-ring would temporarily 'give out', blowing the bb forward. Plus, these guns had no hopups (or fixed hops at best). I have some classic airsoft guns that have factory adjustible hopup designs, but these are rare and dont work very well. Making a modern GBB airsoft gun - with modernized and useable hopup - is tricky. The main issues are cooldown (if you arent using an external gas/air supply) - and stopping a tiny .20gram in a breech. (Being pushed by a bolt/bolt carrier arrangement that is the weight and design to push a jacketed bullet.) The thinking by most manufacturers in the past was SMALL. That is, if you intend to design a GBB airsoft gun, you will have most success with a small gun replica. This is the reason for the diminutive KWA/KSC M11A1, micro UZI's, Maruzen MP5K's, HUDSON Grease Gun's, etc etc of the past. The best you could get was a gas blowback SUB machine gun years back. The reason was the bolt was both small and light - even with inevitable cooldown, it wouldnt be as much an issue, pushing a tiny bolt (A KWA Mac11 bolt is about the size of a pencil and only throws a couple inches). And the bolt travel was minimal. Similar to an AEG. You would have less issues loading a BB (and holding it in the breech) with a short loading throw. The WE design is a brilliant adaptation of the Escort system and minimizes the loading "throw" (the delay of part #39) but there is still the issue of getting the gun to function independant of the hop system - at least for loading and holding a tiny spherical bb. Edited February 6, 2009 by rottenotto Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marky [UE] Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 (edited) What gas are you using? American Eagle 1575 MA Yes, 100%. If you happen to be using a particularly oily mix of paropane/gas, you will also see lots of 'drool' here as well. (as you have noted) There is a normal amount of blowby, leaving the rear of the brass cylinder. Thanks, it's nice to have it confirmed. After firing a few mags in a cycle I also noticed that the movement of part #39 was much tighter moving in and out of #38. Without checking back in the thread I think this is where you applied the Krytox fix? Manipulating the rod in and out a few times made it smooth again. I had applied a silicone high performance oil but that obviously didn't help much. Edited February 6, 2009 by Marky [UE] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 American Eagle 1575 MA Thanks, it's nice to have it confirmed. After firing a few mags in a cycle I also noticed that the movement of part #39 was much tighter moving in and out of #38. Without checking back in the thread I think this is where you applied the Krytox fix? Manipulating the rod in and out a few times made it smooth again. I had applied a silicone high performance oil but that obviously didn't help much. Exactly! You found it. This area will actually lock up on a new gun when it cools down to frosty. Krytox helped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris North Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 If you don't mind me asking, how did you discover Krytox lube, Otto? Outside of ebay (which doesn't really have what I want in the quantity or price I want) I had to get it from a major industrial supply company through my dad. Have to wait a few days before I get it though... Anyway, has anyone else received and installed their power-down valve yet? I just got mine today, but It doesn't seem to be working. When I fire the blowback is extremely weak. I haven't spent much time on it yet but it looks like the valve is too large and doesn't close. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 ^ Hi Chris. I discovered Krytox as a mechanic. The car industry uses it for problem squeaks (usually windshield molding squeaks etc). It has many applications. I use it on my (real) gun slides, fishing reels, my Kershaw knives, - wherever I need a super slick lube that lasts. Well......I had a new and previously unposted (?) problem today. Ill post pics of this failure. Part #59 completely failed. It is the sheetmetal cover for the mag valve striker assembly. I am SO GLAD this part failed. I am willing to bet this is a problem on many of the guns posted here - like Wraith's and even maybe yours Chris. This has been an invisible problem until now. You might not even know the part is wasted. Ill get into details tomorrow, but the gun was giving crazy erratic blowback and ROF. First shot was a wimpy "poof" then a couple trigger pulls later "BLAM!".......then back to wimpy. How I discovered the problem (part #59) was a bit of luck. A tiny piece of blued metal fell out of the receiver (pics tomorrow) and into my lap. After pulling the trigger group out, there it was - the part I was holding broke off of #59. #59 acts as a guide of sorts that controls the movement of the striker. Without it, the magazine valve isnt struck with any consistency. I ordered a replacement from William. I am going to machine a custom #59 using the brand new part as something to copy from. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobbcore11 Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 WE SCAR anyone? http://g.imagehost.org/0830/DSC1119.jpg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 (edited) WE is really stepping up their game and looks like they are going to lead the way into this renewed GBB rifle market. Edited February 7, 2009 by 4boost Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobbcore11 Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 Yeah, but I was hoping they would make some more after market parts first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 Yeah, but I was hoping they would make some more after market parts first. For the M4? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roecar Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 Does anyone know of this ATF importation ban of any GBB M4s? I wanted to pick one up and there all sold out and the place I was gonna get it from says they won't be getting any more. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 (edited) there's no ban. its an airgun. it may be seized because of the trademarks, but if the customs agent goes deeper into what it is, he'll wise up and let it through. im sure the trades aren't 100% correct. Edited February 7, 2009 by Horsem4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xerxes127966 Posted February 7, 2009 Report Share Posted February 7, 2009 Has any one been able contact William on AB this last week? The swedish post have lost the WE M4 he sent me and I now need him to make a lost parcel report to the hong kong post. But he does'nt answer my e-mails and he has allways been really quick at answering before. I thougt he would be back from the new year holidays this week. Sorry for the OT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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