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Has any one been able contact William on AB this last week?

The swedish post have lost the WE M4 he sent me and I now need him to make a lost parcel report to the hong kong post.

But he does'nt answer my e-mails and he has allways been really quick at answering before. I thougt he would be back from the new year holidays this week.

 

Sorry for the OT

 

Same here, he seemed absent for 1 week now and there's no news of my spare parts order as well.

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Has any one been able contact William on AB this last week?

The swedish post have lost the WE M4 he sent me and I now need him to make a lost parcel report to the hong kong post.

But he does'nt answer my e-mails and he has allways been really quick at answering before. I thougt he would be back from the new year holidays this week.

 

Sorry for the OT

 

I asked for some information on Thursday this week and got a reply pretty quickly from William. I wouldn't worry too much as usual a reply is a bit hit and miss (I do get the impression they are still pretty busy). I have always found forwarding the same email a few times gets a hit at some point, maybe they look at emails in reverse order and never get to the older ones.

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I see a lot of discussion regarding different parts failing. At around how many rounds does this occur? Just flipping through the posts makes the WE seem prone to parts breaking, but I can't come to that conclusion without knowing the type of firing schedule.

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I am SO GLAD this part failed. I am willing to bet this is a problem on many of the guns posted here - like Wraith's and even maybe yours Chris. This has been an invisible problem until now. You might not even know the part is wasted.

 

Ill get into details tomorrow, but the gun was giving crazy erratic blowback and ROF. First shot was a wimpy "poof" then a couple trigger pulls later "BLAM!".......then back to wimpy.

 

 

That sounds about right! let me know if you find a fix for it!

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I see a lot of discussion regarding different parts failing. At around how many rounds does this occur? Just flipping through the posts makes the WE seem prone to parts breaking, but I can't come to that conclusion without knowing the type of firing schedule.

Keep reading. Problems and solutions have been presented.

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Speaking of.....

 

Kraut, you will need to get your new WE M4 overhauled once its in your hands from Kai.

 

I see he threw in the towel yesterday, selling his to you.

 

Once you get it, we can see whats going on.

Yeah, I figured I'd have to tinker a bit. I'll update you once I have it and test it out.

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Keep reading. Problems and solutions have been presented.

 

I've been following the thread since page 1 was the newest page.

 

I'm just asking how many rounds people have fired, or if anyone would be kind enough to post the round count order where certain problems first begin.

Edited by slu
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I've been following the thread since page 1 was the newest page.

 

I'm just asking how many rounds people have fired, or if anyone would be kind enough to post the round count order where certain problems first begin.

 

 

I can tell you "at how many rounds" my items broke, but your own mileage will vary. Sometimes quite a bit.

 

Wraith broke his charging handle in one day - mine took at least 5 bags of bb's (2k rounds per bag)

 

He broke his valve head in less than 2 weeks. Mine has never broken. (after thousands and thousands of rounds)

 

I have a new part that failed this weekend - that Im not sure anybody has posted yet.

 

It a GBB rifle, ---- "one day at a time", lol.

 

 

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The parts arent inconsistent - all the same ones break eventually! :P

 

It really is down to the operator. A trip to the airsoft field, or even looking over Youtube vidoes, will show you how some people are really hard on airsoft/paintball gear. Whether its yanking on parts, or just poor trigger control, and not listening to the gun.

 

I have always considered airsoft guns 'fragile toys' - compared to my real steel weapons. There is no comparison beyond 'looks'. (High quality, USA machined steel receivers, vs "sintered metal" parts?)

 

You need a special touch just handling them.

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Pics of Broken #59.

 

Anybody else have this issue?

 

I searched the 100 pages as best I could and didnt hit on this part.

 

Like I mentioned last night in my post, it was a bit of luck finding this issue. The tiny piece of steel you see below (broken off of #59) landed in my lap after falling out of the receiver.

 

 

TOP...

 

59top.jpg

 

BOTTOM...

 

59bottom.jpg

 

It is one of two tabs that folds over the top of the valve knocker housing (see parts diagram)

 

Looking in the receiver, it didnt immediately "jump out at me"......since BOTH sides had broken off now, the symmetry looked "right".....like nothing was wrong.

 

59installed.jpg

 

But a closer look (see below) showed that the valve knocker block was sitting pretty far into the receiver - nothing was holding it forward.

 

59cu.jpg

 

A quick pic with the lid off.....

 

59out.jpg

 

The part is cheap stamped steel. It is bent into a right angle. Two folds bending down on either side of the knocker asssembly to hold it in place. The tabs also serve to guide the valve knocker pin (left and right).

 

The first side broke off (unknown to me) and probably fell on the floor ot ground - gone forever.

 

It wasnt until the SECOND side broke off did problems with erratic power delivery start to happen.

 

The gun will work (like *chaffinch*), but I dont recommend running it like this.

 

Check the part by opening the receiver - you should have the steel lid bending over and wrapping the assembly ON BOTH SIDES of the valve striker/knocker pin.

 

I have ordered a replacement from William (William buddy, are you reading?? ;) )

 

I will make a better quality part for myself using the new part as a template.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A shameless photo opp....... taken today in the cold. This is what the gun looks like this week. :P

weleandone.jpg

 

wesideb.jpg

Edited by rottenotto
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Thanks Mark!

 

Guys, I added a first and very rough "how to" at the wiki post.

 

It is concerning part #36. Locktiting and centering the valve assembly (#38).

 

I think this is THE most critical of all prevntive maintenance steps.

 

So have a look.

 

Im going to clean up the text/font/style when I get the chance. But the pics are really good. It took forever!

 

WIKI POST - WE M4 MODS - PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE. #36

 

 

All the best

OTTO

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The exploded diagram was on the first line of the troubleshooting section. Ill have to go through and make sure it is on the other sections. Otto, you can find the attachment tagged under the troubleshooting guide in case you want to add a link on the other pages.

 

 

Im going to PM you right now.

 

Thank you - because I was having trouble getting the correct size. Ill link to yours instead ;)

 

 

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Found out what the problem was with the new valve. Apparently the inner diameter of the new nozzle is a bit bigger than the old (stock) one. The quite obvious result of this is that the valve (which is also a bit larger OD-wise) will not fit into the nozzle properly and so will not close. Luckily I ordered another gas/nozzle assembly so I just stuck the power restricting valve in there. Quite weird that they would change that, but I guess I could see some advantage. The other change I noticed is that the valve spring is also slightly larger at one end (not sure what that's called).

 

I'm probably going to try to ream out the old nozzle I have to see if I can get the new high-powered valve to fit. Don't think it will work with my tools but if it breaks it won't really matter...

 

 

Otto:

Thanks for that. Everywhere I looked with Google it mentioned that Krytox was a lubricant used for stuff like computer chip manufacturing and space shuttles. :P I think one thing I read mentioned it being useful for something with windshields...

 

I've not looked into part #59 closely yet, but mine looks fine. If I understand correctly from your description, this part "absorbs" the energy from the hammer when it falls and hits the firing pin/valve knocker? Maybe dry firing without the mag accelerated wear?

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Thank Skyflash! I took well over 100 photos the last 2 days and uploaded 50. Very time consuming.

 

Carsten-

I know about the trigger assembly because I was communicating with William yesterday.

 

My part #59 above that is broken (your will be too!) is >not< available as a separate part.......at least not through WIlliam. You have to buy the entire trigger asembly to get it!

 

$100.00

 

NOT cool.

 

I will be making my own replacement part. And I can see why guys like Kai and others already sold their rifles. Personally, Ill hang in there, but these guns are going to be money pits just like the rest of the GBB rifles I have owned.

 

Definitely not for everybody.

 

 

 

 

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Otto:

Thanks for that. Everywhere I looked with Google it mentioned that Krytox was a lubricant used for stuff like computer chip manufacturing and space shuttles. :P I think one thing I read mentioned it being useful for something with windshields...

 

I've not looked into part #59 closely yet, but mine looks fine. If I understand correctly from your description, this part "absorbs" the energy from the hammer when it falls and hits the firing pin/valve knocker? Maybe dry firing without the mag accelerated wear?

 

 

Try some Krytox grease on the gearset in your next AEG mechbox that you build. Been using it for years. (GM uses it in many gear sub assemblies). Combined with bearings rather than bushings, you can turn the gearbox at an impressive ROF with as little as a weak 8.4 volt cell battery pack!

 

On the subject of part #59 going away on me, you get it. You looked over the part for sure.

 

The thing is, that I never dryfire the gun. Maybe a few times, when I first got it, to see what it would do with no mag in the gun (click!)

 

But nothing to break it off like that. Im mystified.

 

Looking at the part and what it sees as a force placed upon it, doesnt equate to breaking of both tabs like that. Its crazy!

 

I can only guess that the metal is so ###### poor, that it just gave out on the fold. Like scoring a piece of ceramic tile to break it easy.

 

THE BAD NEWS?

 

William says the part is NOT available buy itself - he wants $100.00 for a new trigger group. Ouch.

 

Thats too much money IMO.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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