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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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well, think of it differently. find yourself a small ball, like a ping pong ball. put your finger on top like your poking it and try to spin it backward while your pushing it forward so it will roll back to you, you cant always make it go straight. now try the same thing with both your index fingers on the front of your finger. you have a much easier time controlling where it goes and it has a much greater spin. hop ups use the same principal.

Edited by Horsem4n
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Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

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nope. its a complete redesign. i think the new barrel will come with the unit.

 

the reason the thing is being redesigned is cause people wanted more range and accuracy. and you need a better hop cut in the barrel and more than a round nub to spin the ball, that's the problem with KWA/KSC guns, just not enough contact area.

 

im glad they are redoing the unit, lets me hope for a good one this time. at best, a type of v hop. (please,please,please,please)

 

Yes. The barrels will be available for the new hopup unit, but they won't come with it.

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was that a joke?

 

the hop unit WE is redesigning it for the M4 (it has already been announcd to be a drop in replacement) and naturally, if it they end up changing the hop cut they have to produce the new barrel themselves aswell. and it would be cool to come as a package.

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was that a joke?

 

the hop unit WE is redesigning it for the M4 (it has already been announcd to be a drop in replacement) and naturally, if it they end up changing the hop cut they have to produce the new barrel themselves aswell. and it would be cool to come as a package.

 

No joke. What I'm saying is, there will be no need to ask Ed for a custom cut for the new WE. It will be a standard model as soon as the new hopup is complete.

 

I will bring up your suggestion for an upgrade package for the hopup and inner barrel. It makes sense and might help to eliminate some confusion down the line.

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so otto, your upper wobbles too? How did you shim it?

 

Anyone know if real buffer tubes will fit on the WE lower? Was thinking about putting a full length tube on to fit a solid stock.

 

Also, tried ottos fix for the bolt carrier and valve. So far everything seems to be copasetic. Thanks Otto. :)

 

 

Sabre!

 

Yes, I had receiver wobble. Its the nature of the beast - real or airsoft.

 

Most real AR's, have this side to side play, or "wobble" between the upper and lower receiver. The thing is, it doesnt affect accuracy one bit in these guns. I have had real AR's that clatter like crazy but shoot tight groups.

 

Some find it annoying. I do.

 

There are two fixes in real steel world for this (more on the wiki post this week). Either an expanding rear takedown pin, or a little device called an Accuwedge.

 

The expanding pin is a bummer since it requires an allen key each and everytime you want to open the receiver. So much for 'quick takedown". The WE needs to be opened so much, I wont run this part.

 

The next option, the Accuwedge, works WONDERFULLY, but will NOT work in the WE toy gun.

 

What this small rubber piece does is take up the slack between the bottom of the upper receiver lug, and the bottom receiver. It's, well, .....a wedge!

 

We have NO room for this but the prinicpal is the same.

 

Place a small o-ring or rubber washer (very very thin) on top of the screw that holds the trigger group in - the back of the open receiver. Shut the top receiver, squeeze tight, and slip the takedown pin back in place.

 

No more wobble.

 

More on the wikipost this week - pics of course too.

Edited by rottenotto
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Sabre!

 

Yes, I had receiver wobble. Its the nature of the beast - real or airsoft.

 

Most real AR's have that side to side play or wobble between the upper and lower receiver. The thing is, it doesnt affect accuracy one bit in these guns. I have had real AR's that clatter like crazy but shoot tight groups.

 

Some find it annoying. I do.

 

There are two fixes in real steel world for this (more on the wiki post this week). Either an expanding rear takedown pin, or a little device called an Accuwedge.

 

The expanding pin is a bummer since it requires an allen key each and everytime you want to open the receiver. So much for 'quick takedown". The WE needs to be opned so much, I wont run this part.

 

The next option, the Accuwedge, wroks WONDERFULLY, but will NOT work in the WE toy gun.

 

What this small rubber rpiece does is take up the slack between the bottom of the upper receiver lug, and the bottom receiver. It's, well, .....a wedge!

 

We have NO room for this but the prinicpal is the same.

 

Place a small o-ring or rubber washer (very very thin) on top of the screw that holds the trigger group in - the back of the open receiver. Shut the top receiver, squeeze tight, and slip the takedown pin back in place.

 

No more wobble.

 

More on the wikipost this week - pics of course too.

 

A #7 Oring wrapped around the upper receiver front takedown hinge seems to do the trick also for real AR15s. Google "AR15 oring" and the first link has photos. This has been reported by uscmCorps to work for the G&P WAM4, perhaps it'll work for the WE, since the principle is essentially the same.

Edited by slu
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I'm having some issues with my hop up. After installing the second inner barrel (and moving the nub from one barrel to the other) I'm getting only about 100 feet of range even with the hop turned all the way up and BBs are hooking to the left or right at the end of their flight. I've tried re-installing the nub and I'm sure it's clean and free of lube.

 

Any ideas? I've not yet tried to use the other barrel yet, but I'm pretty sure the problem is with the nub. I'm also pretty sure it's not an issue with gas getting to the barrel, but I don't have any reliable way of checking.

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I'm having some issues with my hop up. After installing the second inner barrel (and moving the nub from one barrel to the other) I'm getting only about 100 feet of range even with the hop turned all the way up and BBs are hooking to the left or right at the end of their flight. I've tried re-installing the nub and I'm sure it's clean and free of lube.

 

Any ideas? I've not yet tried to use the other barrel yet, but I'm pretty sure the problem is with the nub. I'm also pretty sure it's not an issue with gas getting to the barrel, but I don't have any reliable way of checking.

 

 

Did you lose the tiny ball bearing? As good as we are we can still goof.

 

Slu,

Thanks for that post. Thats for front wobble and might help remove the last bit of play in the WE.

 

Most of the wobble in AR's and the WE are from the rear. Google accuwedge.

 

 

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Hi all i have a version one M4 on the way, and have tried scanning this thread but it is massive and although i have picked some bits up i just wondered if you advise me of the following?

 

1) is part #42 they only thing i need to restrict the FPS and is it easy to fit, i am very new to GBB's

2) what other parts are a must to have spares of as well as the charging handle?

 

Hope you can help

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Part #42 is basically a drop-in fit in most cases. Getting to the stock part is pretty easy, but you're probably going to need a pair of vise grips and needle nose pliers. It should bring your muzzle velocity down substantially if your WE is shooting 400+ FPS, and it's the only thing to reduce FPS as far as I know.

 

If you're bolt catch isn't steel, you're going to want a new one of those as well. Besides that you should be fine for a long while. You may want to get a few replacement o-rings (part #122), but if you polish the opening of the BB cylinder and keep the nozzle assembly tight and straight you should be okay without. Look here for a great sum-up of this thread.

 

Did you lose the tiny ball bearing? As good as we are we can still goof.

 

Maybe, but I never noticed. How would I check and if it is in fact gone, what would make a suitable replacement?

 

I'm not that good...

Edited by Chris North
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Part #42 is basically a drop-in fit in most cases. Getting to the stock part is pretty easy, but you're probably going to need a pair of vise grips and needle nose pliers. It should bring your muzzle velocity down substantially if your WE is shooting 400+ FPS, and it's the only thing to reduce FPS as far as I know.

 

If you're bolt catch isn't steel, you're going to want a new one of those as well. Besides that you should be fine for a long while. You may want to get a few replacement o-rings (part #122), but if you polish the opening of the BB cylinder and keep the nozzle assembly tight and straight you should be okay without. Look here for a great sum-up of this thread.

 

 

 

Maybe, but I never noticed. How would I check and if it is in fact gone, what would make a suitable replacement?

 

I'm not that good...

 

Ha, yes you are!

Take it apart again. The teeny tiny bb is right on top and is what presses the green silicone hop material. My guess is that it may have dropped out when you took things apart. it is SO easy to do. refer to the parts diagram to se e where it is and how it goes together.

Cobbcore,

"yes" on increased rate of fire - "no" on increased gas efficiency since the mag valve doesnt "know" how light or heavy the bolt is. Seperate system operating on its own. It will just bea easier pushing a lighter bolt when temps are cold - and the gas pressure is weak.

 

 

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Anyone know if William has fallen off the face of the earth? I placed an order almost a month ago and still have not received even an email response. Not good AB and WE.

 

Just curious: Why do you say "not good AB and WE"? I hope you understand that AirsoftBuddy is a retailer of WE's guns & parts (as well as other brands) & WE is straightly a manufacturer.

 

WETTI

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Just curious: Why do you say "not good AB and WE"? I hope you understand that AirsoftBuddy is a retailer of WE's guns & parts (as well as other brands) & WE is straightly a manufacturer.

 

WETTI

I understand that AB is a retailer, but he has repeatedly suggested that he has very close ties to WE and the development of your products. If this is incorrect I do apologize for the mistake. Up until now I have had nothing but good things to say about AB and have done several transactions with them. This last transaction simply leads me to believe that the great service we all received early on was simply a ploy to get us hooked. In my current state I am left with a gun in need of parts that I have paid for but have yet to see or hear about. I would simply like a reply from AB in regards to my parts. I will probably hang up my gun until such time as reliable product support can be had once again (if ever).

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I just got my WE M4, well, not really. What I got is Socom Gear's Noveske N4 GBB. I've brought it down to user-level maintenance take down and everything pretty much looks the same with the WE M4, as most have already suspected. What I'm still speculative about is that in some sites, the Socom Gear N4 is said to be equipped with stronger internals. I know the bolt stop just passed the magnetic test, but I have no way in telling what other parts, if any, are made stronger.

 

To WETTI:

Would you kindly clear up what your arrangement with Madbull/Socom Gear is with regards to the M4 GBB? I have difficulty in telling who made what in my rifle.

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