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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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I've only shot around 10 magazines, I noticed that my bolt was no longer locking back.

 

Although I didn't have any broken parts both my mags were locking on rack but were inconsistent when firing. I did some work and detailed my personal mod a while back. This did fix the locking issue for me. This doesn't cover all of the issues you have mentioned but might be worth considering. Low gas pressure due to temperature or near empty mags has always caused the bolt stop action to fail (as would be expected).

 

Magazine Bolt Stop Catch Fix

 

On another note I have just received my first parts from TS One. Some replacement mag bolt stop catches to try and an enhanced buffer. Not had chance to try either yet as my charging handle finally gave way and I am waiting for the new improved part.

 

Has anyone seen, bought or tried the following:

 

Modified Mil-Spec Charging Handle

 

I assume the extra lip has been added to this part and wondered how this has been done, pictures would be nice.

Edited by Marky [UE]
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Has anyone seen, bought or tried the following:

 

Modified Mil-Spec Charging Handle

 

I assume the extra lip has been added to this part and wondered how this has been done, pictures would be nice.

I have sent them an email Marky with all our questions.

I'll post the reply when I get it mate.

 

Basically I asked how they carried out this modification (I know how other people have done it but it would be good to hear what they actually did) I asked for some more pictures and I also asked for the make of charging handle used.

 

If we get some good answers maybe we could combine an order to save on shipping (they do state on their website that International shipping is minimal though)

 

Chris

Edited by chris u'5
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I have sent them an email Marky with all our questions.

I'll post the reply when I get it mate.

 

Basically I asked how they carried out this modification (I know how other people have done it but it would be good to hear what they actually did) I asked for some more pictures and I also asked for the make of charging handle used.

 

If we get some good answers maybe we could combine an order to save on shipping (they do state on their website that International shipping is minimal though)

 

Chris

 

I will hold off getting in touch with them then. If this is the same Horizon Tactical found on ebay then I also have some other parts I have been talking to them about and combining orders might be an interesting option. Look forward to any info they can provide.

 

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This is how most of the bbs are looking after being shot out of my WE M4. What can cause such thing?

BB.JPG

 

It's the same on mine on almost all the bbs shot out. How can it not be the nozzle rotteno? The nozzle actually slams pretty hard on the bbs, considering even the brass nozzle will break after some use.

Anyways I'll try to round that tip and lap it down but I'll look into a diy design for a better fix.

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I will hold off getting in touch with them then. If this is the same Horizon Tactical found on ebay then I also have some other parts I have been talking to them about and combining orders might be an interesting option. Look forward to any info they can provide.

I'll post as soon as I hear back then mate.

 

Edit.

Marky,

I just noticed that on their website they have a promotion at the minute for free Worldwide shipping for orders over $100.

Edited by chris u'5
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Hey folks, is the nozzle supposed to press up against the brass cylinder (part #112)? Is that why my cycle rate and spped of bolt travel is a little slower? It seems that there is a bit of a friction fit when ever I put my bolt carrier/internal assembly back into the bupper, I have to nudge it slightly forward (slightly pushing the nozzle into the brass cylinder) in order to close the upper down onto the lower.

 

Is it meant to form a seal? or are my tolerances off and I have to sand away at the brass cylinder?

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It's the same on mine on almost all the bbs shot out. How can it not be the nozzle rotteno? The nozzle actually slams pretty hard on the bbs, considering even the brass nozzle will break after some use.

Anyways I'll try to round that tip and lap it down but I'll look into a diy design for a better fix.

 

It can't be the brass nozzle since its a rounded piece. Something with a sharp edge did that. Chances are it could be an edge that wasnt taken off in the finishing processes during machining on the inside of the nozzle housing/hop assembly. If it isnt that then it may very well be poor machining on your nozzle. Post some shots of the front of your nozzle side by side with the dented bb. That may help give a bit more insight to the problem.

 

 

Hey folks, is the nozzle supposed to press up against the brass cylinder (part #112)? Is that why my cycle rate and spped of bolt travel is a little slower? It seems that there is a bit of a friction fit when ever I put my bolt carrier/internal assembly back into the bupper, I have to nudge it slightly forward (slightly pushing the nozzle into the brass cylinder) in order to close the upper down onto the lower.

 

Is it meant to form a seal? or are my tolerances off and I have to sand away at the brass cylinder?

 

What that friction your feeling is likely the rear seal of your valve assembly (the infamous part# 122) coming together with your valve housing (brass cylinder). It ought to be normal to have some slight friction as it is creating a seal when it enters however if there is a large amount of friction then the valve may be out of alignment in which case it needs to centered and loctited. Normally, there should be ZERO contact between the actual brass nozzle/valve and the inside of the valve housing (brass cylinder) since the only thing that should be touching in there is that #122 seal. Try checking your valve and see if its centered in the bolt carrier and check for any wear marks on your nozzle as well as those could indicate where parts are rubbing. As somegirls said above be sure you add a bit of lube (preferably an appropriate grease instead of silicone oil) to the inside of the valve housing and even on part 122.

Edited by sabrepilot9000
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Although I didn't have any broken parts both my mags were locking on rack but were inconsistent when firing. I did some work and detailed my personal mod a while back. This did fix the locking issue for me. This doesn't cover all of the issues you have mentioned but might be worth considering. Low gas pressure due to temperature or near empty mags has always caused the bolt stop action to fail (as would be expected).

 

Magazine Bolt Stop Catch Fix

 

you must have misread me because i said that the magcatch DOES work when its low on gas.

I believe that when fired, the bolt goes too Fast for the bolt catch to turn on.

 

I dont' believe the reason it's not working is due to friction though, but i might try that later.

 

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Thanks Sabrepilot. I zeroed the valve on the bolt carrier, so its straight and applied threadlock to the screw that keeps coming on done. There is definetely friction (albeit just enough to form a good seal) between the oring (#122) and brass cylinder. Maybe the nozzle is coming unthreaded from that thin steel tube it rides on.

 

But, yeah, the nozzle is def. hitting the brass cylinder. I'm guessing its only a matter of time before catastrophic failure of the nozzle if it keeps hitting up against the brass cylinder. Good to know that its not supposed to touch.

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you must have misread me because i said that the magcatch DOES work when its low on gas.

I believe that when fired, the bolt goes too Fast for the bolt catch to turn on.

 

I dont' believe the reason it's not working is due to friction though, but i might try that later.

 

I am sorry as you say I have misread your statement :rolleyes: . I did hear that the aluminium bolt was moving too quickly for some and causing all sorts of issues, never known the standard bolt to be moving that quickly though. Being in the UK and having only cold weather at the moment I am probably no longer qualified to pass any comment. That being said I can't even read posts correctly anyway ;)

Edited by Marky [UE]
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I ran into a problem today. I can't seem to pull the charging handle all the way back to push down the hammer. It only moves about 1/2aninch and then it gets stuck on something. When I manually pull the hammer back the gun fires and I can charge the handle, but once I empty my mag andpull the triggerso the hammer returns to the upright position I can no longer pull the charging handle back. ANy solutions? What part makes contact with the hammer to push it back?

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It's the same on mine on almost all the bbs shot out. How can it not be the nozzle rotteno? The nozzle actually slams pretty hard on the bbs, considering even the brass nozzle will break after some use.

Anyways I'll try to round that tip and lap it down but I'll look into a diy design for a better fix.

 

 

Ive recaptured several mags worth of spent bb's and none have those marks.

 

My guess is the brand of bb you are using??

 

I took it a step further and placed a bb (KSC brand) on the kitchen counter top, and placed a spare valve assembly (valve head and black tube) on top of it.

 

I tapped the back end of the tube with a hammer, which in honesty, would be 20 times the striking force fo the normal loading operation.

 

The bb is pristine with no marks.

 

If I tap any harder, the bb crushes and splits.

 

So I dont know.

 

This loading muzzle is so blunt and round it does zero harm to the bb.

 

The craptastic flight of the bb is more to do with the hop design then anything else. So I wouldnt even explore this phenomenon as a potential problem yet, until the new hop is released.

 

 

 

 

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A friend has just received a WE M4 from UnCompany but it seems the forward assist button has fallen off in transit!

Does anyone know if a RS replacement will work or if a replacement is available?

Has this happened to anyone else?

yea frined of mine got one from redwolf same deal, wejust popped it back on and it stayed

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Ive recaptured several mags worth of spent bb's and none have those marks.

But then those are from your non-malfunctioning M4. It wouldn't be right to dismiss the notion that his nozzle might be sharp just because yours isn't. As much as we all like the gun, all it takes is one lapse in the QC process; even Tokyo Marui has lemons. Until we get a good picture of his nozzle, there's really no telling what's causing the deformity, but in any case, that scar is there and will undoubtedly affect precision in messing up with its aerodynamics.

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^ Not all of us have these marks, but all of us have poor shot to shot consistency.

 

Wouldnt it be safe to say that the hopup has more to do with this poor accuracy?

 

(As well as the wet gas jet, used to propel the bb - as I have said many times. It wets and messes with the hop.)

 

Lets see how the new hop rubber performs.

 

 

 

Edited by rottenotto
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