somegirls Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 (edited) Does anybody have a clue why they didn't install the HU rubber in the first place? What's the point of selling the barrel/HU and the rubber seperately? Would be awesome íf anyone could write a guide on how to swap out the barrel. Edited April 9, 2009 by somegirls Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trinco Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 Does anybody have a clue why they didn't install the HU rubber in the first place? What's the point of selling the barrel/HU and the rubber seperately? This is because people will order some extra HU rubbers instead of one, that's why AB selling it separately. If i was u, i will order 1xInner Barrel and 2or3xHU Rubbers. If my new HU rubber goes wrong, Im not going to pay $1.50 + shipping or $10(Inner Barrel+HU rubber) + shipping just to get a new HU rubber. So i suggest if possible get some extra HU rubbers and AB should mark down the price to $1 each or maybe if u buy more than 1 piece u'll get $1 each, just a thought... who's with me? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
somegirls Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 thanks, great advise! I'm still confused. Does the new barrel/hu include a new hop up chamber as well, or do I need to keep the old chamber/brass cylinder? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lupus78 Posted April 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 (edited) I just watched the piston head video. Super glue to hold the o-ring guides in place? Whoa.......not cool. I agree. Sounds weird. I just received this piston head from AB, but I'm not sure if I want to install it at all. I have it just in case. If the rod gets loose again I can only image what kind of damage this new piston head could do to the brass tube, since the o-ring doesn't cushion the impact. I also got one plastic rod tube stabilizer and the 7075 aluminum harging handle (which feels and looks great). With the stabilizer installed and tightening the #36 bolt I'll hopefully get the piston aligned and fixed properly and there will be no need for this piston head. Does anybody have a clue why they didn't install the HU rubber in the first place? What's the point of selling the barrel/HU and the rubber seperately? I actually just ordered two hopup rubbers and one barrel from AB. The rubber is the most likely thing to need replacement. I also ordered the new trigger unit which hopefully solves my problems with full-auto. Also in my order is the 300fps steel nozzle which I'm hoping to modify higher (to around ~400fps) by cutting and filing some of the length of the rod, so that the inner valve can move more backward, like on 480fps version, but not as far. Does the new barrel/hu include a new hop up chamber as well, or do I need to keep the old chamber/brass cylinder? Only thing you need is the barrel and hopup rubber. About changing the barrel... First take off the front grips and push the pin on front sight that holds the gas tube in place. Then slide the gas tube backwards towards body and you get it out of the front sight. Now pull it off the body. Then you need some large pliers (or the special tool for the barrel nut) to screw off the barrel nut (the one with the spiky edge) while holding the delta-ring back at the same time. The nut can be a tight one. After this the outer barrel should come off easily and you can slide also the hopup unit forward, out of the body (can also be tight in the body). There's also two pins in the hopup unit that you need to remove to dissassemble it. And watch out for the metal bearings that pushes the rubber. Maybe keep the hopup unit upside down during the change. Then you just assemble everything as it were. Did I forget anything? Edited April 9, 2009 by Lupus78 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
somegirls Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 (edited) wow, thanks a lot! I thought you could simply pull the innerbarrel out by losing some screws like with my old VFC Scar. you rule mate! Edited April 9, 2009 by somegirls Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 (edited) I agree. Sounds weird. I just received this piston head from AB, but I'm not sure if I want to install it at all. I have it just in case. If the rod gets loose again I can only image what kind of damage this new piston head could do to the brass tube, since the o-ring doesn't cushion the impact. I also got one plastic rod tube stabilizer and the 7075 aluminum harging handle (which feels and looks great). With the stabilizer installed and tightening the #36 bolt I'll hopefully get the piston aligned and fixed properly and there will be no need for this piston head. I actually just ordered two hopup rubbers and one barrel from AB. The rubber is the most likely thing to need replacement. I also ordered the new trigger unit which hopefully solves my problems with full-auto. Also in my order is the 300fps steel nozzle which I'm hoping to modify higher (to around ~400fps) by cutting and filing some of the length of the rod, so that the inner valve can move more backward, like on 480fps version, but not as far. Only thing you need is the barrel and hopup rubber. About changing the barrel... First take off the front grips and push the pin on front sight that holds the gas tube in place. Then slide the gas tube backwards towards body and you get it out of the front sight. Now pull it off the body. Then you need some large pliers (or the special tool for the barrel nut) to screw off the barrel nut (the one with the spiky edge) while holding the delta-ring back at the same time. The nut can be a tight one. After this the outer barrel should come off easily and you can slide also the hopup unit forward, out of the body (can also be tight in the body). There's also two pins in the hopup unit that you need to remove to dissassemble it. And watch out for the metal bearings that pushes the rubber. Maybe keep the hopup unit upside down during the change. Then you just assemble everything as it were. Did I forget anything? *JUST A REMINDER: PLEASE REMEMBER TO SMOOTH OUT THE INSIDE OF THE BRASS HOUSING BEFORE INSTALLING YOU NEW HOP/BARREL UNIT. DISASSEMBLY MAY CAUSED SOME SPURS (@ THE PIN HOLES) INSIDE THE HOUSING & COULD VERY EASILY RUIN YOUR NEW HOP UP RUBBER SINCE THE FIT IS VERY SNUG. Otherwise, the swap should be piece of cake. WETTI Edited April 9, 2009 by WETTI Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 Being overly impatient for the new hop to arrive I tried to modify my old one with a dremel which flew from my hand and into a pile of garbage never to be seen by the eyes of mortal men. For the past 12 hours I've been experimenting with different materials to use in place of the old and missing one and I've come across a very effective solution: glue gun. I had to stick a screw driver (slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel, around 5.5mm) into the inner barrel first to prevent the excess glue from mucking up the inside as well as to mold a reversed "U" hop profile (similar to the one on my Tanaka .500 which has an incredibly stable hop). The hot glue is then squeezed on the recess for the hop rubber with some excess ontop. Image of inside the inner barrel showing the profile of the injected hot glue after forming against the screw driver. To clean the outside flush against the barrel, I used a cutter heated up by a candle so I could scrape away at the excess material without leaving any tool marks. The end product looks as if it were cast directly from a mold. I was able to test fire it for about 20 rounds by which time my stock part #42 (500fps version) broke so I had to stop. I did however notice the trajectory to be flat (set to 1/8 turn from zero) in all the 20 odd rounds I got to fire off; no more sever over-hop of the original first gen part. Opening it up again after testing, there were no signs of damage from use. As soon as my new nozzle arrives I'll test this further to see if I wouldn't have to buy the new hop and barrel design. edit: I forgot to mention I tried other stuff like rubber and silicon but both were too soft from the lack of material and would have the nub fold down and cause even more hop-up effect. The hot glue is more rigid and not as 'gripy' as the other two materials so the nub would slip over the bb and give it the right amount of spin. I love & admire that DIY spirit!! But yet I still want to recommend to you our soon-available 6.02mm 'mirror finish, chrome-plated' ultra precision inner... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Net Ronin Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 Hi WE ITT, Is "6.02mm 'mirror finish, chrome-plated' ultra precision inner" the same as the one on Airsoftbuddy? http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=270 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 Hi WE ITT, Is "6.02mm 'mirror finish, chrome-plated' ultra precision inner" the same as the one on Airsoftbuddy? http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=270 FYI, the chrome one has not been released yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
somegirls Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 (edited) thanks Wetti. Glad AB hasn't answered my mail so I can still cancel my order. No need for those barrels than. Do you have an MSRP on the chrome ones? But why in the world can't you guys clearly point out, that these barrels are the ones everybody is actually talking about?? (the chrome ones) I'm kinda feeling fooled here. Every time a new part shows up it either doesn't do anything, it's not what people take it for (like these barrels and the Co2 capability of the steel nozzles) or they appear from the site the next day. I don't think buyers get too thrilled about that. Edited April 9, 2009 by somegirls Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theprodigy Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 that explains why its a 10dollar price tag. side note, my bolt has a half moon crack at the top rear position, but the crack kinda looks like it's suppose to be there, is this normal? In other words it looks like a clean cut like it was machined that way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theprodigy Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 i just emailed AB to cancel my current order for the LAT piston head and nozzle, he hasn't sent me an email that they're shipped yet. I'm going to wait for all the other parts to roll in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snorkelman Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 But why in the world can't you guys clearly point out, that these barrels are the ones everybody is actually talking about?? (the chrome ones) I guess the flip side of that coin is why cant we wait a week or two to see rather than jump in and order stuff the minute its released Cant help but think that when it comes to this current crop of gas guns bragging rights will go to those who had enough self control to wait until they're finished, rather than the early adopters who tear their hair out (and yep Im guilty of it too lol). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 i have been waiting for a long time too. at this point, im not all to sure if i should adopt a WE M4 when the V3 comes out or a G&P WOC. or just forget about them and get a TSI Tavor when they finally come out... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Philbucknall Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 Mines In customs at the mo, and whilst it may need some tinkering I am glad to have bought one and joined the ever growing band of GBB rifle affectionados. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lukvdh Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 I received my order of spare parts and upgrade parts from AirsoftBuddy. I was astonished to see the user is supposed to glue some o-rings to the enhanced piston head. This is not mentioned with the item info. I'm not really happy with this. Also NOW (for 1 day, before this was NOT mentioned) it says : "Parts #122 for WE Gas Blow Back M4 Selling in each, not 5pcs" But the picture still shows 5 pieces and the description still says partS (with an S). So I expected to receive 5 pieces. I'm not really happy with this. I just wanted to share this info. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 I just watched the piston head video. Super glue to hold the o-ring guides in place? Whoa.......not cool. I like how they addressed the problem of the piston head and 'op rod' getting so cold that it would stop moving - the metal got so cold it would stick. (Krytox helped this problem in my gun). In this design, the 'op rod' is running through rubber o-rings as the guide - less metal to metal contact, so freezing will be less of an issue. But supergluing them in place? No way. LAME. I didn't super glue mine... The rear o-ring gets sandwiched between the piston head and the brass bushing (which oddly enough doesn't seem to be on the parts diagram...). I did not install the front o-ring...I don't really think it's needed. I'm going to shoot a couple hundred rounds with this to see if it is a decent upgrade. As of right now, I would recommend buying the stabilizer as this takes ALL the guess work out of centering the valve assembly and makes everything rock solid. I don't see how the valve could come off center with it installed as even if the valve screw #36 comes loose, the stabilizer is such a snug fit that it will keep the valve assembly in place. I'm going to be updating the wiki with reviews on any of the upgrades I have installed so far. If anyone else would like to contribute their review on any aftermarket parts (or anything else WEM4 related) and you haven't signed up on the wiki, apply for membership (be sure to state what you'd like to add), and I'll approve you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redline Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 I didn't super glue mine... The rear o-ring gets sandwiched between the piston head and the brass bushing (which oddly enough doesn't seem to be on the parts diagram...). I did not install the front o-ring...I don't really think it's needed. I'm going to shoot a couple hundred rounds with this to see if it is a decent upgrade. As of right now, I would recommend buying the stabilizer as this takes ALL the guess work out of centering the valve assembly and makes everything rock solid. I don't see how the valve could come off center with it installed as even if the valve screw #36 comes loose, the stabilizer is such a snug fit that it will keep the valve assembly in place. I'm going to be updating the wiki with reviews on any of the upgrades I have installed so far. If anyone else would like to contribute their review on any aftermarket parts (or anything else WEM4 related) and you haven't signed up on the wiki, apply for membership (be sure to state what you'd like to add), and I'll approve you. Thanks 4boost, lookiin' forward to those pictures. I ordered the stabilizer piece...but it does not fit..are the curved sides supposed to be up against the inner wall of the bolt carrier? If so, that's the problem for me...I have a "micro ledge" on the inside of my bolt carrier (not cnc'd correctly) that prevents the stabilizer from sliding all the way to the bottom. I have to sand the stabilizer first, I guess. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 I guess the flip side of that coin is why cant we wait a week or two to see rather than jump in and order stuff the minute its released Cant help but think that when it comes to this current crop of gas guns bragging rights will go to those who had enough self control to wait until they're finished, rather than the early adopters who tear their hair out (and yep Im guilty of it too lol). Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carsten Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 check news Exclusively available from WETTI, our new CO2-operated M4A1, M16A3 & M4CQBR will be in stock & ready to ship within 15 days. All dealers inquiries & orders welcomed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 News flash: Our new M16A3 & M4 CQBR (regular gas version) will start shipping next week Features: - one-piece, full steel barrels on both models - regular gas-type steel nozzle standard on both (in fact, it'll be standard on ALL AWSS 'regular gas' platforms) - new design 'Gen 2' hop-up system 6.03mm precision barrel (brass) standard on all platforms - RS-spec., anodized 7" rail system standard on M4CQBR (a WETTI exclusive) - new, strengthen charging handle standard on all models - anodized bodies on all models (a WETTI exclusive) WETTI Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 New flash: Exclusively available from WETTI, our new CO2-operated M4A1, M16A3 & M4CQBR will be in stock & ready to ship within 15 days. All dealers inquiries & orders welcomed. Features: - new, CO2-compatible 'locking' steel nozzle/brass housing internals (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CuLNKwAPXsY) - 12g CO2 capsule-operated 30-rds magazine - all other specs. same as our regular gas models. WETTI Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redline Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 So does this mean C02 mags and seperate C02 internals will be ready as well? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 So does this mean C02 mags and seperate C02 internals will be ready as well? The CO2 upgrade kit will be available from dealers as soon as our current orders (on full packages) are filled. I'll keep everyone updated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carsten Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 Can you now give a statement on how we are able to choose the fps rate? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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